Entries from Expedition Dispatches
May 26, 2014 - 10:21 pm PT
Today is day 19 of our expedition, with twelve of those days spent at the 14k Camp. The weather forecast is not looking good for a summit attempt, as a significant weather system is supposed to hit
Denali tonight, bringing snow and wind tomorrow. High winds are forecasted to persist for the next ten days. If this forecast verifies we will be headed downhill shortly, as we still have to make it back down the Kahiltna Glacier to Basecamp before waiting for good enough weather to fly back to Talkeetna. We will definitely wake up early tomorrow morning to see if we get lucky with a quick summit window, but none of us are holding our breaths. We will let you know how the weather treats us tomorrow.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 26, 2014 - 10:12 pm PT
Now that we are in the holding pattern, waiting for our window, any day could be our chance to move to 17K and take a shot at the summit. This morning wasn't it though, as we woke to a large, gray lenticular cloud hanging on to the upper mountain. We rested, traded books, listened to music, did a little 14K Camp crossfit, and took a walk to the "
Edge of the World," where the Genet Basin looks over the lower Kahiltna. From the vista we could see our first camp of the trip at the base of Ski Hill. The forecasts continue to be mixed, so we're taking it day by day and seeing what opportunities the mountain provides us. We'll send the news of tomorrow when we know what it is. Until then, we're going to bury ourselves in piles of down and get some shut eye.
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, and Josh
On The Map
Hi this Seth. I'm up at Camp Muir with this week's
Expedition Skills Seminar. We had a really fun walk up the Muir Snowfield today. We had expected rain and it started out like that but after a couple of hours we broke into some sun! The clouds were in and out for the rest of the day so we stayed pretty dry. We are all settled in at camp now getting ready for our first night on the mountain.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
May 26, 2014 - 5:18 pm PT
Hello everyone!
Saying hello from Talkeetna, Alaska! We made it off this afternoon despite the evil forecast. This morning we left 9,700' and walked down glacier into deep clouds that retreated as we made our way to
Kahiltna Base Camp. All day we heard and saw fleets of airplanes coming in and by mid afternoon we were on one of them. So the team is safe and sound taking showers and indulging in vices.
It's been a fantastic trip with a great group. Thanks for tuning in!
RMI Guide Leon Davis
May 25, 2014 - 11:56 pm PT
We took full advantage of our
rest day today, eating a big brunch of egg, bacon, and veggie quesadillas (there is a recurring theme here involving our meals). The storm that was forecast for last night and today didn't materialize, so it was a great day for chatting in the posh, catching some sun, and catching up on journals and reading. Everyone's legs appreciated the recovery from yesterday's big effort.
The forecasts going forward are pretty scattered, and aren't really painting a clear picture, so at this point we're in standby mode, waiting for our weather window to present itself. We'll see when that happens, but until then, we are living really comfortably at 14 camp. We'll be in touch with more news tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, and Josh
On The Map
The
Four Day Summit Climb May 23 - 26, 2014 was forced to turn around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver today due to poor weather.
RMI Guides Eric Frank and Pablo Puruncajas made the call to start the descent. The team will return to Camp Muir and then start their descent to Paradise later this morning. We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
May 25, 2015 - 5:33 pm PT
Despite a poor forecast for today, we awoke to calm and only scattered clouds which allowed us to return to our
previous camp and retrieve our cache. The scattered clouds made for some pleasant walking temps and our loads felt lighter than ever before... A nice change for our tired shoulders. We spent the afternoon reviewing climbing techniques for our carry up to 13,500 feet (hopefully tomorrow). Everyone is feeling well rested and we are crossing our fingers that tomorrow will bring another nice day!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
May 25, 2014 - 6:27 pm PT
Our team is spending another day at the
14k Camp today, with strong winds apparent up high again. We're hoping to take advantage of a brief window of calmer winds this week in order to take a crack at the summit. We're hoping to move to high camp tomorrow if the weather allows. We've got our fingers crossed, as tomorrow will be day 19 of this expedition and the shot clock is winding down.
We'll let you know how it all plays out.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 25, 2014 - 8:47 pm PT
Hi everyone!
The team is back at camp safe & sound after an adventurous attempt on
Kahiltna Dome. The predicted weather came in but with less snowfall than anticipated. At 6 am we had enough visibility to leave camp and start up the east ridge. The climbing was great fun and we had just enough visibility to keep going. We passed the high point from the previous seminar by chopping and probing our way up and around the ridge. A great team effort! At 10,700' the clouds came in thick and the snow began to fall heavy and this put a firm halt to our upward progress. So we turned and navigated our way in the flat light down to camp. Despite falling short of the summit everyone was really excited for the adventure and it was great fun to explore new terrain. Tomorrow we travel back to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier in the twilight to see if planes will take us back to civilization.
Good night and see you all soon!
RMI Guide Leon Davis
May 24, 2014 - 11:21 pm PT
Going to sleep last night we didn't know exactly what morning would bring. The winds last night had picked up and was blowing spin-drift all around. We could hear the winds coming off
Kahiltna Pass into the wee hours, but when we finally awoke and peeked out the vestibule of the tent we were happily surprised to find gloriously beautiful weather.
Our move up to our new camp couldn't have gone better. The team crushed it! What a nice change from the loads we had making our single carries. Tomorrow we will head back down to our old camp to pick up the cache we buried there.
Getting in to camp at 1:30 this afternoon was almost like having half a rest day. We even built a 'proper' Posh House. This is a big shelter under which we cook and can all dine together. Tonight's menu: Indian cuisine, served on a bed of rice and preceded by a tasty soup. Of course, this is always followed by an after dinner drink. Coffee, tea, hot cider or everyone's favorite: hot cocoa.
Wish us luck on the weather front. It's been good so far. But regardless of what happens, we're sitting pretty right now and everyone is doing well and in good spirits.
A bientot from 11,200' camp.
RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick
On The Map
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Oh, boy. Down to the wire! Hopefully we’ll touch base soon, but Outdoor Ed is Wed/Thurs/Fri. My forecasting skills will be unavailable when I’m up at Kelly’s. Get ‘er done!!
xoxo
Posted by: K2 on 5/27/2014 at 9:21 pm
Another Epic Walter Denali trip. Seems like you beat our 2011 camp 14k record - not one you were hoping for…Keep the spirits up and safe decent if that’s the call. Good luck!
Jeff
Posted by: Jeff Rapp on 5/27/2014 at 10:57 am
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