Hi everybody and welcome to the first installation of many dispatches from this summer's Ecuador Volcanoes program!
The team finally met each other as a complete group this morning for breakfast after several hectic laps between the airport and hotel late last night. Team members were trickling in gradually through the night and the crowds of Ecuadorians awaiting family members made for quite a scene. Actually, it was more like a zoo with a traffic jam outside. Fortunately, Jaime and Victor (our expert locals) were incredibly helpful in scooping up our climbers and adept at navigating the melee. Anyway, after a decent breakfast and getting to know each other a bit the team headed out for a day cruising around Quito as full-fledged tourists of the sight-seeing variety. With the majority of the city situated at over 9,000' we have actually already begun our acclimatization process. After a long day of travel just to arrive in Ecuador, it was nice to have a day to just cruise around and get comfortable.
The city tour hit up lots of old colonial and contemporary sights including religious, governmental, and culturally significant buildings. We climbed the rickety catwalks high in the Basilica and caught tremendous 360 degree views of this huge metropolis of more than 3 million citizens and later went to the exact geographical equator where we played around with the strange forces the earth's rotation creates uniquely on the middle of the planet. The equator museum also had a cool sort of natural history museum with a collection of flora and fauna and anthropological relics from Ecuador's various regions. We're talking giant anaconda and boa skins, real human shrunken heads, and a gnarly, preserved amazon candiru - look it up... The team had fun getting to hang out in a casual atmosphere and we aim to keep the fun going as we begin some of our physical activity tomorrow with a training hike up on Rucu Pichincha, a volcano right above the city where we will hopefully hit nearly 16,000'. That should help jump start the acclimatization followed by a night's rest at relatively lower altitude in Quito.
Well, headed off to dinner with the crew, more to come as the situation develops,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
After a delicious Roadhouse breakfast and stories from the world famous Fairview Inn pre-party, the team has been busy sorting gear for the trip. The weather is beautiful right now and we're prepping to fly onto the mighty Kahiltna tomorrow morning. Until then we're enjoying solid earth under our feet, the smells of lush green plants in our noses and hearty meals in our bellies. Cheers from the RMI Knoff, Uchal and Blais team.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Both Four Day Summit Climb teams made it to the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. Lead guides Jason Thompson and Andres Marin reported beautiful weather with light winds of about 0 – 8mph and plenty of SUNSHNE. The teams were in light gloves and two clothing layers, as they climbed. They are now en route back to Camp Muir and we expect them back at RMI Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon.
Today is the first day of summer and the longest day of the year…get out and enjoy!
Hi Jon, Following your journey and as nervous as your mother. Have fun but most important be safe
JoAnn
Posted by: JoAnn Ingram on 6/21/2012 at 4:51 pm
Hi Jon! Yes ... it’s your Mama. I hope you are having an AMAZING journey. Please be safe and smart, as I know you will. I miss you so much and will breathe when you are back in Knoxville! Love you so much!
Posted by: Paige Conley-Smith on 6/21/2012 at 9:16 am
Greetings from 17,000’. Our team is at camp doing great and tucked into their sleeping bags with an absolutely beautiful evening here on Denali.
We are going to cross our fingers for good weather tomorrow and with any luck, we’re gonna give it a shot. So, wish us the best weather. Our team is doing great, very strong. Hopefully we will go take a shot at it tomorrow. So that is all from 17,000’. We are ready to launch…
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from 17000 feet on Mt. McKinley
WHOOOHOOOO im so excited! I’ve been thinking about you everyday and I can not imagine how lucky I am to have such a badass dad.
Your so close to your pie! :)
Go for it!!.. and dont whimp out hah. Sleep well!
Love
Sarina.
Posted by: Sarina on 6/20/2012 at 11:10 pm
Good luck guys. Maybe you already hit the top or at the top now?? The suspense grows…..
Drum roll please.
Hi guys, this is Mike checking in from the 11k camp on Denali. All is well. We decided to spend another day here at 11,200' instead of moving up to 14,200' today. We are spending the day resting, eating, and getting more acclimated to the altitude before venturing higher. We are hoping to move up to 14k tomorrow, weather pending. Until then, we're enjoying the sunny, hot weather and just lazing around. Hopefully our next dispatch will be from higher ground.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
We are hanging on news of your great adventure. Your aunt is loading the Blog at the Renoir so that you will have a vastly expanded fan club amongst the geriatric set. We hope to see you in some pictures sent back from your team with a large smile on your face. We are all thinking of you and wishing you all the best.
Love Dad, Mom, Brooklyn Spencer and Daisy.
Posted by: charles selby on 6/20/2012 at 8:30 pm
Stan-
Is that a cumulonimbus w/anvil I see? Whoa! Stakes will be handy! Keep your eyes on the Summit! Oh, longest day of the year is today—extra daylight! See you tomorrow, love me
Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Mark Falender and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported light winds, few clouds, and very pleasant weather with the sun peaking through every now and then. The teams are now en route back to RMI Basecamp in Ashford.
Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz Route and reported similar conditions. They are headed back to their high camp at 10,800' feet and will finish their week of training on the mountain and return to RMI Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
I was part of the 4 day summit climb on June 19 with Mark & Solveig. What a magical day it was and I feel extremely privileged to have been part of it. Thank you guys so very much for your guidance, expertise and support. This has truly been one of the greatest challenges of my life and I will cherish it for a long time to come. I have taken so much away from this experience - the challenges that this mountain presents, especially the Cleaver, had me digging deeper than I ever had to attain success. Mark, Solveig, Sean, Geoff and Levi - you guys are all rock stars!! RMI can and should be very proud of you. I was sad to see the program end. Hopefully, I will link up again with Mark for a climb up Grand Teton!
Thank you again very much!
Ben Elliott
Posted by: Ben Elliott on 6/21/2012 at 2:19 am
Hey Hans ....... GREAT JOB. Blue sky’s 365 !!! Gotta love it. xoxo Love and hugs greta
Our team had a great day today, putting in a cache at 13,700' at Windy Corner. We returned to a day time schedule, and enjoyed a warm and sunny day today. The weather is beautiful here at the 11,000' camp tonight; there is blue sky above, clouds below, and no wind. We're all in our sleeping bags and looking forward to a good night's rest.
If the weather is good tomorrow morning we are planning to move our camp up to 14,200'. We are feeling ready and are looking forward to the challenge of tomorrow. That's it for now...time to get some zzzz...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Today we purposely awoke early for our carry to the top of the headwall. Our intentions to provide the team with the flavor of the frigid temperatures of Denali in anticipation of what a summit day will feel like, were embraced by every team member. Four hours later we dug our cache atop the fixed lines and returned in a speedy mode to our camp at Genet Basin to enjoy ourselves practicing our favorite sports of "eating and napping". Everybody is excited for our move tomorrow to 17 camp and the upcoming launching. Regards!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Fingers still crossed, for good weather conditions and an extra bit of good luck for your team. Crispi, Pass auf dich auf, und wenn du ganz oben stehst, dann schau und genieße für uns mit. Küsschen, SF.
Posted by: Susann and Frank on 6/20/2012 at 2:12 pm
Ross and K, Getting closer. An expert guide one time told me that mountain climbing is a lot about chillin so if you need to sit near the top it can be tough but know your about vertical 17000 ft and four thousand miles closer than any of us writing you.
I had one hell of a couple of weeks and have continually thought about the mountains. I wish I was able to make the trip with you guys but as I said I collided with fate here, I needed to be here.
Can’t wait to hear more from you guys and the progress.
Dave
Carla- Kanitta lost her phone a while back and now we only have Ross’ cell number. Call us :0)
The day is coming to a close and things are back the way they were at the start of the trip. Our tents are laying here and our sleeping bags in the thick, moist air. It's tough to imagine that we were at 20,320 feet just the day before yesterday.
Thank you for all of your continued support as we took on Denali successfully. I realize how much it took both on the mountain and at home. Again, thank you. The amateur summiteer.
Thanks to all who continue to support my crazy adventures!! Your positive vibes and supportive thoughts mean more than you'll ever know! I return from the highest peak in North America simultaneously proud and humbled!! Michael C
Thanks to my family and friends and especially my wonderful wife Megan for supporting me in this adventure. It is difficult to describe the feeling of humbleness inspired by the the grandeur, majesty and (not least of all) weather of the Alaska Range. The seasoned judgment of TJ, Eric and Logan truly kept us alive and (mostly) comfortable. I cannot thank them enough. MJB
Thanks to all the friends and family for the awesome support! Despite the fact I was unable to make the summit the trip was amazing and will certainly be unforgettable. Much appreciation goes to the best guides anywhere for their judgement. "climbing mountains ain't easy"... The mountain won this time but I'll be back again! CPL
Thanks to all my family, friends, and business associate for supporting my " habit". The summit of North America is an amazing place. Our RMI guides are the best - Tyler, Eric and Logan !!!!
LWS
Belle expedition. Merci RMI. Merci a tous pour vos blog.
N
Now that the day is coming to a close, things are looking eerily similar to the way they did before we left. Tents and gear have been dried. Gear is slightly dirtier, but once again prepared for air travel. It would seem to the unknowing observer, that nothing has happened other than a few mild sunburns.
As the warm rain arrives in Talkeetna, the group runs for cover indoors. It's nice to be dry when it rains and warm when it's cold outside without to much effort. That said, there was something nice about even the coldest days on the mountain. As guides, we hope out clients feel the same way. Like proud parents, we have enjoyed the time we spent with the team as they grew. We have seen the group grow together and grow as individuals. We hope that this growth will have some relevance even in the dry and warm front country.
Thanks to our clients for their time, energy, patience and passion. The guide team hopes to work together and with members of our 2012 Denali trip soon. Weather this trip was the first big expedition or the last, we hope team members will keep trying new things, keep climbing mountains, or at least stay in touch.
The summit was great, but the team was better. Thanks guys,
RMI GuidesTyler Jones, Eric Frank and Logan Randolph
The word "team" is what we are; the confidence and style this team has possessed has been outstanding. Team Jones/Frank/Randolph is excited to be in base camp on the Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
We woke up a number of times through last night to gusty winds and white-out conditions at 11k camp. The guides choice was to wait the weather out. Denali was again giving our group another challenge. The team solved this one with some rest and a long pancake breakfast.
An afternoon clearing provided motivation for an evening walk, our final walk that provided everything from blowing snow to pristine clear skies. The sunset reeled us in toward the north face of Mt. Hunter lit in the soft evening light completing our final push to Kahiltna Basecamp at 7,800 ft.
While conditions look prime at base camp and it looks like we will fly out tomorrow, we don't want to count our chickens before they hatch. You never know what Denali, or as we have called her "De-Gnarly," has in store for us.
Laying here in our sleeping bags in the thick, moist air, it's tough to imagine that we were at 20,320 feet just the day before yesterday.
The crew is ready to celebrate our safe and successful summit with the loved ones that allowed us to be in Alaska for this journey. Thank you family and friends for the support. This journey to the top of North America and back has been a long and never to be forgotten experience. We look forward to recalling our time spent in the mountains with a dinner out wearing sandals and shorts along with being back on turf with trees, rivers, and just plain dirt in Talkeetna.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Congratulations JB and team for the strong and safe summit of Denali! Your friends here at AMC are anxious to here the details and wish you good weather for the flight off.
Posted by: Rick on 6/19/2012 at 12:42 pm
That was a fast descent.Thank you Tyler, Eric and Logan for bringing everybody back down Denali in good spirit and shape!
À bientôt Nicolas!
Have a save climb! Hope the weather is cooperative and you get great views the whole way.
Posted by: Oscar on 6/21/2012 at 9:17 pm
Have gun you guys. Be safe
Posted by: chris fisher on 6/20/2012 at 7:00 pm
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