After our hailstorm approach and the lightning storms visible on the horizon, no one on our team really had a lock on how the day would turn out. When we started breaking trail at midnight and the stars quickly disappeared, everyone crossed their fingers that Cotopaxi would let us stand on top. Luckily fortune smiled on us and we managed to find our way through some quickly changing glacial conditions with plenty of new snow to go with. The higher we climbed, the clearer it got and this team did a great job climbing smart and safe on this tough mountain and we all returned healthy and happy, albeit with the weirdest facial tanning we've seen. Thanks for a great trip with an awesome team.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
We are at High Camp (Piedras Blancas) and getting ready for our summit bid. We will leave early in the morning for an alpine start and climb out of camp to join the Ruta Normal. A gradual traverse along the mountain's northwest flank takes us to the base of the Canaleta, a 1,000' long couloir leading to the summit ridge. Upon reaching the top of the Canaleta, a straightforward traverse leads to the Aconcagua summit.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral
Bryan, So glad to hear about your climb!!! We are sooooooo proud of you ‘warrior!’ Also, glad you and your team are having a great time! Can’t wait to see you and ‘celebrate!’ Love mommy and daddy
Posted by: Connie Blalock on 1/21/2012 at 1:09 pm
Bryan, So glad to hear about your climb!!! Also, glad you and your team are having a great time! Can’t wait to see you and ‘celebrate!’ Love mommy and daddy
Hi there,
We woke up this morning at Camp 1 with high winds, and big plumes of spin drift on the saddle above us, so we decided to stay here for one more day. Our current plan, based on the short good weather window that the forecast has given us, is to move to camp 2 tomorrow, the next day move to Camp 3 and the next day go for the summit!
The group is very excited about the new plan after having been inside the tents for the last 48 hours. The winds at this moment have started to slow down, so it looks like the forecast is right.
We will check in tomorrow from Camp 2.
Gabi, Pete, Gilbert and the Aconcagua team
Jeff,
Sounds like its on like Donkey Kong!
Go get and get it man.
Love you,
Bro
Posted by: Chad Johnson on 1/20/2012 at 9:49 am
Wow, Jeff, moving right along!! I got butterflies when I read the agenda, I know you will do well, take care & stay calm, take in each moment, we all look forward to your stories. Luv to you, mum
Things didn't look all that promising when the team woke up this morning. The clear skies we lit the stoves under were gone and we were solidly in a thick cloud. Often when climbing you have to go check it out and at the end of our first hour Cayambe was entirely visible. A waning half moon illuminated the upper mountain and the snow was perfect cramponing. With barely a breeze, you couldn't ask for a better day to climb. The team worked hard today, earning the top in great style and enjoying the views of the other Ecuadorian volcanoes poking out of the clouds. We could even see Cotopaxi, our next objective.
Good job everyone and enjoy tomorrow's rest.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Helloooo everybody,
The team has been very busy today here at Camp 1. It's hard work napping for several hours, eating as much prosciutto and cheese as we can, and making sure to stay hydrated to boot. Games of cards, iPods, and chit chat fill in our spare time. All of this work is necessary however for our success on the upper mountain. Tomorrow will see us move to a new camp at 18,000', and we'll start the acclimatization cycle over again.
The weather has been pretty sunny today with clouds here and there, but our fresh breeze that began last night has encouraged the group to remain in tents for much of the day. We are looking forward to a scrumptious dinner of tortellini, and a good night of sleep. For those that are wondering, cooler temps and the breeze today have resolved our aquatic camping problem, turning our aquarium into a rather exciting skating rink.
Abrazos from Argentina,
RMI Guides Pete, Gilbert, Gabi, and the Aconcagua double A hockey team
Hi Jeff, Thanks for sending the snow!! We have snow coming down this a.m. yeh, hope you are staying warm & breathing is getting easier. I feel like I’m climbing w/you when I read the blog, pics are great to see. Luv to you, live it love it, keep going, mum
Good morning, this is Jake Beren and the RMI Ecuador team standing on top of Cayambe. Everybody did super well today. We had a beautiful day to climb and now we are perched pretty high above the clouds surrounded by some pretty large volcanoes. It was just about as good today as I have ever seen out here. It was a real pleasure to be here with such a good team. So, I guess that’s it. I'll be in touch when we get further down.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the summit of Cayambe.
Hello again from Camp 1 on Aconcagua. We had a successful carry to Camp 2 today. It was very busy leaving camp this morning, about 60 climbers heading up. The weather was great, sunny and warm with a fresh breeze. We got 4 inches of snow last night, so the mountain is beautiful right now. The whole crew did great on the carry today. Camp 2 at 18,000' was a new high point for a lot of folks. We are now back at Camp 1 resting and diverting a fast flowing river that is trying to submerge our tents. We are resting tomorrow before we move higher on the mountain. Hope this dispatch finds everyone doing well and enjoying the new year.
You'll will be hearing from us soon,
The Aconcagua team
Proof that Wally is the most thoughtful man on earth; he asked Bryan,(who unfortunately had to cut his climb short due to asthma) to send me an e-mail letting me know “he is in good shape, and has already made it to 19,000 feet. Waltor is an awesome man, he has made this trip soooo enriching. Dont worry about him”. The Wally Glover fan club can now breath a little easier! Thanks Bryan!
Our team woke to a beautiful morning after our first night at 15,300' Refugio Cayambe. Inspiring views of the glaciers and rugged landscape made our day of mountaineering skills amazing. The team is strong and we're all looking forward to a great summit day. We're hoping for good weather and climbing conditions as we make our summit push tonight.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Waking at the lovely Hacienda San Luis, we soon found ourselves in the midst of the Saturday Otavalo market. Full of local crafts, raw chickens, entire cooked pigs and about anything you could imagine. We wandered around the vibrant market doing a bit of shopping and a lot of looking around.
After a fun morning of exploring the market we traveled to the Cayambe hut making it most of the way on wheels before finishing up the approach on foot. Here at the hut we celebrated Brad's birthday and turned in to get some rest before our training day tomorrow. A fun day for sure and great to get to the base of our first big climb.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Hi there,
Team Aconcagua checking in from Camp 1 (16,200'). We arrived at camp around 3 pm today. It took almost 5 hours for us to complete the move to our new home (we are planing to spend 3 nights here).
It started to snow right after we set the tents and it hasn't stop since (3 hours), the accumulation is just 2 inches so far.
We are ready to have dinner and relax for the evening and recover from our move. Tomorrow, if the weather is good and everyone is feeling well, we plan to make our carry up toward Camp 2.
We will check in tomorrow when we are return to Camp. Thanks for all the comments on the RMI blog, keep sending them.
Cheers,
Team Aconcagua
Thinking of you Tom and sending our love and support. We will pray for good weather and an enjoyable climb tomorrow. Mom and Dad
Wherever you are - be all there. Jim Elliot
Posted by: Daisy J. Dwyer on 1/17/2012 at 7:42 pm
hey baby! it was sooo good to hear your voice today, tell whom ever let you borrow the phone that i said THANK YOU!! sfter talking with you i realized how hard it must be living (surviving) at 19,000 ft!!! i love you so much push to your limit and you know your body : ) all my thoughts and prayers are with you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bryan, So glad to hear about your climb!!! We are sooooooo proud of you ‘warrior!’ Also, glad you and your team are having a great time! Can’t wait to see you and ‘celebrate!’ Love mommy and daddy
Posted by: Connie Blalock on 1/21/2012 at 1:09 pm
Bryan, So glad to hear about your climb!!! Also, glad you and your team are having a great time! Can’t wait to see you and ‘celebrate!’ Love mommy and daddy
Posted by: Connie Blalock on 1/21/2012 at 1:07 pm
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