Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
With a portion of our gear safely stowed away at Aconcagua Camp 1, the team took a well-deserved rest day to soak sore feet and massage aching leg muscles. The guides let the climbers sleep in as they prepared a nutritious and delicious egg and bacon breakfast followed by an alpine pizza lunch. Meals designed to replenish lost calories from the taxing carry the day before. Basecamp was buzzing as climbers and guides from other outfits prepared for their own move up to the next camp, at 16,400 feet, despite an unsettling weather forecast. As the RMI crew strapped on their booties for an acclimatization hike, we wished our friends good luck and watched from a safe vantage as they ascended into the low hanging clouds. When the last climber disappeared from view, we were all left to wonder what the weather would look like tomorrow and if Aconcagua would grant us safe passage. What the future holds is uncertain, but this RMI group is in high spirits and ready to get moving.
RMI Guide Nick Scott
Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,400'
The Team is back down at base camp after a successful carry to Camp 1, located at 16,400'. There is no snow between Plaza Argentina and Camp 1 which means lots of scree. This makes footwork more difficult and the combination of high altitude means the Team ate a lot at dinner and are anticipating a good night's sleep. We will have a rest day tomorrow before moving up the mountain.
The weather has been good despite some high winds, we are anticipating deteriorating weather over the next 36 hours. The Team is gelling and getting to know each other, lots of laughs and some inside jokes already, so we're doing just fine. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King & Team
16,400-that made me want to turn up my oxygen. Hope everyone is doing well. Virg we are fine, but as usual having computer problems - so if you don’t hear from me that is why. Love, Mom
Posted by: Barbara(mom) on 1/5/2018 at 7:16 am
Woohoo, 16400! Warm and dry in Colo., you’re not missing any skiing! Wishing you all continuing success up the mountain!
Posted by: Carol Clark on 1/5/2018 at 6:15 am
Yesterday the team started the day with a leisurely breakfast at La Casa Sol followed by a trip to the Otavalo Market to do a little shopping. The market was full of color and everyone was able to find a few souvenirs to bring home. In the afternoon it was time to head to the climber’s hut on Cayambe. The heavy rains down low brought a significant amount of snow to the mountain. So, again we had to rent 4x4 trucks and see how high they could take us. Our packs were loaded heavy, and we were ready for a long hike. One by one our trucks pushed snow out of our path. Thanks to our adventurous drivers, this left is with only abut 20 minutes of hiking to get to the hut. A lot further than most of us thought! By mid-afternoon we were settled into the hut. We spent the rest of our evening relaxing and going over more knots. We had our first restless night’s sleep as we are all getting used to life above 15,000’.
This morning we were treated to an excellent breakfast prepared by our Cayambe Hut staff before starting our training day. In all the times I have visited this hut, I have never seen so much snow! With crampons on we headed out to the toe of the glacier to refresh our mountaineering skills. The new snow made for great glacier travel and setting anchors. Everyone did a great job! We are back at the hut now listening to the thunder, lightning, and light rain. It is an 11pm wake up call for us. The summit awaits!
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team
Glad to hear you are now truly on your way now, good luck to all of you.,Rogan I bet you can’t wait for the snow? It’s boiling at home, Mel and kids having fun at the river. All return from holidays on Monday, agh, more traffic!
Keep going upwards, it’s the only way to go.
Love , mom
Posted by: Daphne Carew on 1/4/2018 at 10:26 pm
Wishing best of luck to the whole team. We in Boston are getting pounded by snow! LaLa
Posted by: Karen Norris on 1/4/2018 at 2:42 pm
Posted by: JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
We have shifted back to city life, and the intent of the blog has shifted as well. Some of the team members have changed their flights and gone home early, and while we miss them dearly, we want nothing more than to make them jealous, because that's what friends are for.
So Kevin, Casey, and Patty, we're glad you made it home safely, and we hope you're enjoying the below zero temperatures in Minnesota and the NE. Because today we sat by the pool, soaked up some sun, and enjoyed a delicious southern summer feast for dinner. Tomorrow I think we might travel around and sample the Mendoza regions fine wines, while enjoying the sun's warming rays, and a nice cool breeze. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
Hello from Expedition Skills Seminar Ecuador.
Today we finally packed our duffels, checked out of our nice hotel and headed for the mountains. It may sound a bit confusing that we stood in ankle-deep snow yesterday at 15,200 feet but weren't actually "in the mountains". Strangely enough, yesterday's mountain took ten minutes by taxi to get to followed by two hours of hiking. Not exactly the adventure one thinks of when breaking the 15,000-foot barrier.
Today was a different story. By 8:00am, we were packed and ready to load all 22 duffel bags into Victor's magic bus, point that thing north and drive for three hours toward a large concentration of volcanoes which includes the 19,000-foot Cayambe, famous for being the only location on the actual equator to hold year-round snow. Things started smoothly, picking our way slowly through heavy Quito morning traffic. By 11am we had reached our turn off in the renowned market town of Otavalo. From the main road our plan was to turn off and head up a large extinct volcano to a beautiful crater lake and then hike 2,000' to the sharp summit of Fuya Fuya.
Two miles up the road we ran head on into a sign that read Detour! We quickly asked another driver what the road was like and he responded by saying no big buses could make it to the lake. With some quick phone calls, a bit of luck and some willing participants, we hired two 4x4 trucks, loaded them full of 12 climbers and powered upward. Thirty minutes later we arrived at Laguna Mojando. From the lake, two hours of strenuous hiking brought us to our first Ecuadorian summit. We had light rain and distant thunder but overall very pleasant hiking conditions.
The team did great sticking together reaching the summit in very good style. Although this summit was only 14,000', we still felt the strain and know it will play an important role in preparation for our bigger objective starting tomorrow.
After the hike our trucks returned and carted us back to town where Victor and all of our things were waiting.
Once regrouped, we drove directly to the "House of Sun" or Casa Sol, where we enjoyed learning knots by the fire and had a fabulous traditional Ecuadorian dinner.
Reports keep coming in from the higher mountains of deep snow and abnormally bad road conditions. We have plans around these challenges but it should keep things interesting. Stay tuned for what's to come......
Everyone sends their best to loved ones back home.
Buenas Noches,
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 10,550'
We were up before the sun having breakfast by headlamp and quickly packed up camp to catch our mule ride across the Relinchos River. Shortly after 7am, we were making our way up the narrow Relinchos Valley on our way to thinner air. After two days of gentle terrain in the Vacas Valley, it felt good to head uphill and gain some elevation. We enjoyed another pleasant, sunny day with a light breeze that stayed with us all the way to Basecamp, and we had another brief Guanaco sighting. We are now all settled at Aconcagua Basecamp and getting ready to switch gears for the days to come. Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to seeing what the upper mountain has in store for us.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Great job Virgil glad you’re having the weather with you hope it stays
Posted by: Len Currier on 1/4/2018 at 4:19 pm
Great job Virgil glad you’re having the weather with you hope it stays
Posted by: Len Currier on 1/4/2018 at 4:18 pm
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Jordan Cargill
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
This morning we awoke to steady rain in Quito. Despite the conditions and the midnight fireworks disrupting slumber, the team rallied in the lobby of Hotel Mercure excited for our first acclimatization trek up Rucu Pinchincha (15,700ft). As we loaded up on coffee and croissants the rain began to taper to a drizzle and we embarked on a short taxi ride to the Teleferico, a gondola that carried us high above the city to 13,000 feet. We began our trek towards the summit with a light rain and snow mix and good visibility. We may not have had bluebird skies but we did get the unique experience of undercast clouds wafting in out of the peaks around Quito. The team cruised the rolling alpine meadow ridge that makes up the first half of the climb, showing their prowess at the high elevation by chatting the whole way. We stopped to take a break just before the route changes character and shifts to steeper, rockier traversing leading around the spiny pinnacle to a saddle just before the final ridge scramble. As we entered this more challenging terrain we encountered snow that had managed to accumulate, a rare occurrence on Pinchincha. As we continued the snow deepened to about 6”, increasing the challenge of the already demanding terrain. The team took these obstacles in stride and made it to the saddle just shy of 15,300’ in style. We decided to make this our high point having accomplished our goal of acclimatization and not wanting to risk the decreased friction on the third-class scramble to the summit. The wet snow and muddy ground demanded our attention on the descent, but we made it back to the Teleferico in good time with only a few muddy hands and backsides. After some much deserved rest we’re off to explore the local cuisine of Quito. Tomorrow will take us up Cerro Fuya Fuya for another round of acclimatization then our first big one, Cayambe!
RMI Guide Jordan Cargill
Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 10,550'
Happy New Year from Argentina. The Team made short work of the hike today, partially due to cloud cover which kept the temperatures and wind low and because they were eager to get our first glimpse of Aconcagua! We got to see some wildlife on the hike with a fox and some guanacos (Alpacas' smaller cousin) hanging out along the way. True to form, Casa de Piedra is HOT in the midday sun. Team members are busy napping, reading and trying to stay cool for the remainder of the afternoon.
We will have dinner and get to bed so that we can catch an early mule ride across the Vacas River tomorrow morning. One more day to finish our trek to Plaza Argentina. Not a bad way to spend the beginning of another trip around the sun!
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Rogan , all the best for 2018.
We got your back and we are extremely proud of you.
Go Rogan !!
Posted by: Rukesh on 1/2/2018 at 6:44 am
Happy 2018!! Miss you Craig Clark!
Hope you’re all enjoying the adventure and are staying safe! High of 20 in Denver, that Argentinian heat sounds pretty good!
Posted by: Carol Clark on 1/1/2018 at 1:59 pm
Posted by: JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Guess who's back, back again...we are. We finished the walk out to Penitentes this morning, and are now eating hamburgers, french fries, and salads, believe it or not. After lunch, we're going to load up our bags, and fall asleep on the van ride to Mendoza. Once we get to Mendoza, we're going to eat even more. The summit is great and all, but this is the best part of the trip. Time to gain back all that weight we lost.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
Happy New Year from Quito, Ecuador. I am happy to report the entire Expedition Skills Seminar team has arrived safely and is ready for a fun evening enjoying local culture and spirits. Our fiesta will come on the heels of a great day which involved a number of interesting and fun activities.
To begin our first official day together we met after breakfast going through a quick team introduction and itinerary overview. At 9 am the streets outside were already filling with eager New Year’s enthusiasts, some dressing in drag and some wearing colorful wigs, but we passed on joining them and loaded onto our tour bus bound for the middle of the world. Once at the equator, we observed fun physical anomalies only present on the actual equatorial line. Much of our group earned their “Egg Master” awards, balancing an egg on a nail, while others tried to shut their eyes and walk the line without tipping over. Why an egg will balance on a nail but a human can’t balance with their eyes closed is beyond me but proves to be the case.
Outside of the museum, the team encountered a group of locals partaking in the local custom of burning large dolls supposedly filled with the year’s bad energy. As it burns you are supposed to make a wish for better things to come, then leap over the burning pile to make that wish come true. Stephanie showed no fear in giving her wish the best chance.
From the equator we traveled south into the old town of Quito where we gained beautiful vistas of this 40 mile long city atop a hill called El Panacillo. Unfortunately, there were no views of our snow capped peaks but we know they are out there. After this we descended into the old town where we toured some traditional shops and streets then finished in the main square of Quito directly across from the presidential palace.
Despite most of the team feeling a bit tired from traveling and jumping straight to 9000', we left time to have a late lunch at a great little micro-brewery trying it’s best to replicated those in the states. Although the IPA needs a bit more hoppiness, the stout proved our favorite.
Tomorrow we gear up for our first acclimation hike. Stay tuned to see if a few in the group break their previous altitude high points. Late night or not, I have high hopes…..
Happy New Year once more. Salud.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
that certainly sounds like my Stephanie! Happy climbing and be SAFE! Love Mom xxxooo
Posted by: Karen Norris on 1/1/2018 at 11:33 pm
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Virg-just finished watching play off game between KC and Titans. Titans were down 18 points and came back to win 22 to 21. Very exciting. Hope things are going well. I am doing well and feel good - Dad also - he even watched some of the football game. We love you. Mom & Dad
Posted by: Barbara(mom) on 1/6/2018 at 5:02 pm
Craig and Caroline, I’m following the blog and your progress daily. You know I still worry but that’s a “mom” thing. Stay hydrated and healthy. Love you both.
It’s wicked cold here, -3°F at night with brisk winds. The high today was 11°F. I’m glad I only have to hike out to the barns 4 times a day to care for the horses, dogs, cats, etc. There is nothing in the world as fun as shoveling frozen horse manure. LOL
We are looking at a warm up in the next few days so that is good. I’ve not been hunting the last couple weekends due to the deep cold. The deer are not moving anyway so why should I freeze, ha ha ha. Take care of each other. Love Mom
Posted by: Sarah Relyea on 1/6/2018 at 3:20 pm
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