Entries from Expedition Dispatches
January 7, 2017
Hello friends and family!
This is Nick Hunt, reporting in from the high-altitude huts on Cayambe. I'm the co-leader of this trip, along with Adam Knoff, and I'm excited to be leading another trip down here in Ecuador with another great team!
We spent last night in the city of Otavalo, at a beautiful hacienda named La Casa Sol. This trip has been feeling a little more like a leisurely vacation so far, rather than a climbing expedition, and La Casa Sol didn't disappoint. Hot coffee and fresh eggs in the morning, beautiful rooms and a breathtaking view of the mountainous region around us. As nice as it was, though, the team has been getting antsy and everyone was more than ready for our move to the mountains today.
After a relaxing morning at the hacienda, we packed our bags and made one last stop in town: the Otavalo street market. This market is the largest of its kind in Ecuador and stretches on for miles with all sorts of crafts, textiles, spices, and souvenirs. It can be a bit of sensory overload at first, but we spent a few hours shopping for friends and families at home, then waved goodbye to the city and headed for the hills.
The road to Cayambe is a legit 4x4 road and after driving a few hours, the bus could go no further. We exited the bus, loaded our backpacks and finished the approach on foot. A little more than an hour of walking lead us up in to the clouds and to our home for the next few days at 15,000 feet above sea level. The clouds parted just enough for us to sneak a quick peak of our first serious objective before dinner.
Our plans for tonight are simple. We are going to spend the rest of the evening taking care of ourselves, getting a good meal in us, and preparing our packs for a full day of training on the glaciers tomorrow.
The level of excitement is growing as our first objective looms overhead. We'll check in tomorrow afternoon as we prep for our first big summit attempt of the trip. Stay tuned for updates!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt and Adam Knoff, and the rest of the ESS-Ecuador team
On The Map
Posted by: Mike King, JM Gorum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
The team is back at Aconcagua Camp 1 after a successful carry day. Mike is currently fueling up for a nap with some Pringles and Tang. Most of the crew are a step ahead of him. We take our siestas quite seriously in the Southern Hemisphere.
We enjoyed perfect weather today on our carry, with just enough of a breeze to keep us cool, but not enough to even call it wind. On top of the weather's cooperation, we also found excellent route conditions. Firm snow made for quick travel, and gave us an opportunity to use some of the heavy, sharp objects that we've been lugging around.
On the way to Camp 2, climbers crest several ridges, each time gaining a slightly more complete picture of the Andes. I could pile on as many adjectives as I could think of, but I would still be unable to communicate the scale of the terrain. It is big out there.
Given the weather, we spent about an hour up at Camp 2. Taking in the views, securing our cache, and, you bet, napping. The trip down was quick, with sun softened snow and motivated climbers. Before they all went to sleep, the team sent their best to friends, family, and anyone else following along.
RMI Guides JM Gorum and Mike King
Happy to hear everything is going in your favour keep it up and be safe
Posted by: Mark and Helen walsh on 1/8/2017 at 3:20 pm
Rob, what brings you so high pilgrim ? Watch your top knot. Craig
Posted by: Craig Andersen on 1/8/2017 at 1:07 pm
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Good evening from Otavalo, Ecuador.Â
Today was a good day. It started as all the others have. Breakfast and coffee at the hotel, light rain on the streets and an eagerness to see something new. The exception was we left Quito.  It is easy to fall into the creature comforts of city life but we know that bigger and wilder places await outside of the country's capital.
Once loaded onto Victor's magic bus, we weaved our way through the maze of streets which eventually took us to the Pan-American Highway heading north. After two hours of driving we arrived at the foothills of a volcano called Fuya Fuya.  Even though it's altitude topped out at 14,300 feet, it still posed a worthy hike. Unfortunately the weather had it out for us. Just like yesterday, a soggy rain fell all around and the prospect of hiking for three hours up a slick mud trail didn't sound worth the benefits gained by going up 2,000 feet.Â
Much like yesterday though our team of determined climbers showed strong will so we stopped the van 5 km from the parking lot where our climb would have started and walked the road to our waiting van. This idea proved sound when five minutes after arriving the heavy skies opened up and soaked everything with a downpour no hiker would want to be in.Â
This is what Ecuador can do. So after Fuya Fuya we headed down into town for lunch and then moved 11 men and 20 duffel bags into our beautiful hacienda.
After a couple of hours settling in we gathered in the sun room, ordered some cervezas and listened as Nick taught everyone knots, hitches and bends.
The weather hasn't been perfect but we still seem to have fun times.
Tomorrow we visit the largest crafts market in Ecuador. Pray for sun.
Hasta Manana,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt, Adam Knoff and team
On The Map
We woke to the sounds of the park helicopter bringing in supplies and flying out garbage and human waste. Today was our move day to Aconcagua Camp 1, 16,400 feet. Since we had done a carry already the team was familiar with the terrain and difficult sections.
With warm tents and a light breeze the team is busy moving in and resting. We will sort gear for the carry to Camp 2 this evening and eat an early dinner since the shadow of the mountain hits our camp early.
Our view from camp includes the first part of tomorrow's route and it includes snow! You might be asking why the excitement? We will take solid snow over loose scree any day of the week. Everyone is doing well despite the new altitude. Love and well wishes back home!
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
KW
Bernie and I should have the Nordic trails all greased up for you upon your return from your luxury cruise. Better harden up.
JV
Posted by: Jan on 1/7/2017 at 5:27 am
Cayman,
Enjoy the Journey, Tunes, Reads and Company all the way to the top.
The Real Sven Affcock
Posted by: Sven Fleming on 1/6/2017 at 4:34 pm
Day two in Ecuador.
Not many places in the world offer such easy access to high altitude. Down in the lower 48, to reach 14,410 feet, the summit of Mt. Rainier, an average climber needs multiple days, a closet full of equipment and a certain set of skills not learned through a YouTube video.  Down here is a bit different. For example, this morning we were drinking coffee in the hotel lobby, eating pastries and admiring our ten-pound day packs. At 8 am we loaded into a van, took a 15-minute drive to the base of a still active volcano, got a lift on a cable car to 13,000 feet and began walking.
The name of the volcano we stretched our legs on is Pichincha Rucu.  It's summit stands at 15,700 feet and can be reached in mere hours from the city.Â
Pouring rain greeted us at the top of the gondola but this is what that closet full of gear is good for. Putting on our rain jackets and pants we braved the storm like any fearless climber would and headed up the trail. It wasn't long before we crested that 14,410 foot ceiling giving every member, guides aside, a new altitude high point.
An hour into the hike, the rain ceased and we broke 15,000 feet by eleven am. Unfortunately the final 300 feet to the summit is more of a rock scramble than trail hike and true to the days weather, a hail storm ensued so we made the decision to turn around and skip the slippery rock.  The team reached a final altitude of 15,300 feet and to everyone's credit did exceptionally well.
After the stroll, we came back to the hotel for some rest then headed out to a fantastic dinner. All of us gringos are feeling strong and psyched to be getting closer to our first "big" mountain.Â
This is Adam Knoff and team saying adios.
On The Map
Good luck on this new adventure Jim (Nixon)! Looking forward to hearing all about it when you return. Maybe you and Tom Garner need a Maine vacation this summer! All the best! Rich Aspinall
Posted by: Richard Aspinall on 1/8/2017 at 4:13 am
Looking forward to the Cayambe update. Best wishes
Posted by: Tom Garner on 1/7/2017 at 5:12 am
Not much to report from Plaza Argentina. We are enjoying our final afternoon at 13,600 feet before heading to Camp 1 in the morning. The weather is clear with calmer winds then the last few days. People are napping, sorting gear and practicing the valuable expedition skill of 'chilling out'. We are looking forward to moving up the mountain and hope the forecasted wind speeds do not materialize.
With how connected base camp has been send your loved ones an email, iMessage or whatever digital platform you use and wish them 'good luck' as they climb to 16,400' tomorrow!
RMI Guide Mike King
kevin and team have a good climb to camp 2 ,16,400 and good weather,mom and dad xo
Posted by: mark and helen walsh on 1/6/2017 at 6:54 am
Kevin and team Have a great climb to camp 2 16,400 and good weather .mom and dad xo
Posted by: Mark. And Helen walsh on 1/6/2017 at 6:47 am
We are back at base camp this afternoon after our carry to Camp 1, located at 16,200'. The Team took advantage of a direct route which included snow and great trail. Years past has seen this day's route made up of loose and steep scree slopes. While packs were heavy the 3.5 hour up time meant they were not on our backs too long. We put in a cache of food, fuel and some personal items.
While the wind was gusting in the 40's we enjoyed a clear sky and spectacular views of the Vacas Valley. The team is doing well, all appear to be acclimating well and spirits are high. A rest day tomorrow is highly anticipated before we move to Camp 1 on Friday.
The wind continues to plague Aconcagua Base Camp, we will check in tomorrow, until then keep your fingers crossed for calmer weather.
RMI Guides Mike King, JM Gorum & Team
On The Map
Happy Birthday to Rob Millman from all the Wisconsin Millmans! We love you and pray your enjoying every moment. Glad for a rest day on your special day!
Posted by: Debbie Millman on 1/5/2017 at 5:02 am
Loving the updates! Best Wishes to all as you continue the journey. Jason- we love you and are excited to watch this unfold! RISE!
Posted by: Angela Freedman on 1/5/2017 at 4:57 am
Hola from Quito Ecuador,
Today began with two guides, three brothers and five individuals coming together for the first time for the Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador. Most climbers flying into Quito arrive around midnight and don't get to the hotel until after 1am. With an 8 am orientation and team introduction, we were blessed to have a hearty breakfast, strong coffee and warm sunshine to get the guys awake. I can say guys because we are a team with no females. From past experience I can say it is usually helpful to have at least one lady keeping the men in check but judging from our first eight hours together, I have a gut feeling we should be generally well behaved.
After our breakfast and intro the team packed up in Angel's mini bus for a splendid three hour tour of some of Quito's main attractions.
First we visited the "Mitad Del Mundo" or Middle of the World, where we stood on the actual equator. Here we observed visual confirmation of the Coriolis effect, balanced an egg on a nail and watched as gravity played tricks on both our minds and bodies. I would like to say we also saw aliens zipping overhead time travel portals open but unfortunately that happened last week.
After we left the center of the earth, we headed into old town Quito where we visited a giant statue of the Virgin Mary, a three hundred year old Cathedral and the Presidential Palace. Having felt let down by absent aliens on the equator I was hoping for a brief chat with Rafael Correal, the country's President, as a consolation prize but we were told he was too busy. Go figure.....
After the tour we had a nice lunch, nap and gear check. All in all a pretty full day. Stay turned for tomorrow's dispatch because we will be climbing a mountain higher than any team member has climbed before!
Wishing everyone well back home.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team Ecuador
Darlene shared your photos and it looks gorgeous. I’ve been to Quito. Got bad case of food poisoning at a hotel there. Denny’s niece lived and worked there ten years and is married to a handsome Equidorian. Good climbing!
Posted by: Mary Jane stiles on 1/8/2017 at 2:38 pm
Sounds like you are having a terrific time, stay safe and have fun
Posted by: Darlene on 1/7/2017 at 10:31 am
The team is resting today at Plaza Argentina which is helping them acclimate for our climb. Most reported that they slept the best thus far, 30ish miles of walking will do that I guess.
Goals for the day included eating a fresh breakfast, sorting gear, doing some laundry, taking a hike and eating pizza, not to bad at 13,600'.
Their hike went out into a valley where Cerro Ibanez looms. The rocks and soil are an amazing crimson color and one gets the feeling like they could easily be on Mars.
Tomorrow we will carry gear and food to Camp 1 and make our first cache. Until then we are trying to stay out of the wind and sun.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Mike and JM, have fun! My Denali Tribe, wish I were there with you.. kick butt. Did Kevin bring a gnome with a sombrero?
Posted by: Rhonda McCormick on 1/4/2017 at 10:37 am
Greetings from Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia to Kevin Walsh and the rest of the climbing team!!
Kevin, please let me know if the glacial ice caves are still at base camp?
Next section of your journey is tiring, but a great close up of the penitentes !
Best of luck, and safe travels to everyone !
Posted by: Ken Barrett on 1/4/2017 at 6:12 am
After two long days trekking through the Vacas Valley we rode mules across the river and our trail turned uphill into the Relinchos Valley as we gained 3000'+ to arrive at Base Camp on Aconcagua. The Team was surprised at the amenities offered at Plaza Argentina including refreshments, Internet hotspots, showers and perhaps the biggest hit, plastic chairs to relax in.
These long expeditions don't have to be all pain and suffering, the early pioneers suffered plenty for all of us. We will take the remainder of the day to rest and re-hydrate after the hot & dusty trek. Some of the Team have showered and some are waiting for our 1st rest day on Tuesday. From here the trek is over and the climb begins, with preparing gear and group loads to carry to Camp 1.
A consistent comment from everyone is just how blue the sky is in contrast with the multicolored rock bands that form this section of the Andes. It looks like the ridge lines have been cut with an exacto knife.
We will check in on the rest day but for now everyone sends their best to friends and loved ones back home.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
it must have really been great with the mules carrying both you and your gear. And showers?? How fabulous. Love seeing the photos. As usual, safe and fun travels.
Posted by: Betty (Art's sister) on 1/3/2017 at 5:21 am
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Jimmy, How’s the air? Clean and thin I’ll bet! We know just how you feel, had about an inch of snow yesterday and temp dropped to mid 20’s. It shut everything down but back to normal now high 30’s lots of rain. How’s the knee holding up? Praying for safety and great climbs for you and your team. I guess you don’t use the term “break a leg” for mountain climbing so I’ll just say “ganbatte”! ( In Japanese it means, “do your best”) Love Craig and Jane
Posted by: Craig Lucas on 1/8/2017 at 6:18 pm
Hey Jimmy…..looks like an amazing adventure…continued prayer for safety and good weather…savor every moment…
Posted by: Terry on 1/8/2017 at 10:57 am
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