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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Turned Backed by Weather

The Four Day Climb June 17 - 20 was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning due to high winds and cold temperatures. RMI Guides Eric Frank and Pepper Dee and teams made an alpine start for the summit but turned back at approximately 11,900'. Once back at Camp Muir the teams will continue their descent to Paradise to conclude their trip.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Can’t wait to hear about the climb! Hoping for good weather on the descent.

Posted by: Rupali on 6/20/2019 at 11:23 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Get Their Walk On

Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 8:24 PM PT We had a smooth early morning departure from basecamp this morning. It looks like we brought the A-team! Everyone did great as we moved our heavy loads over five miles up the Kahiltna Glacier. The weather has been great all day with sunshine, no wind, and warm temps. We were able to see Denali for much of the day, which was a pleasant change from the overcast days we have had. Our plan is to cache some food and gear around 10k and then come back to this camp and get ready to move up the next day. It looks like the weather may cooperate with us. The adventure continues! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hemingway said, “There are only three real sports: Bull-fighting, car racing, and mountain climbing.  All the others are mere games.”  Be safe as you continue your sport however your loved ones will not fault you if you decide to take up ping pong when you return..GO TEAM!!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/20/2019 at 8:01 pm

Howdy from your Texas fan base! Prayers for continued good weather and best of luck to whole crew!

Posted by: Denise Dahm on 6/20/2019 at 7:40 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Carry Supplies to Windy Corner

Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 4:56 PM PT We got an early start today, leaving camp at 8:15 am headed up loaded with food and fuel to cache around Windy Corner. The weather was beautifully clear and calm and the temps were perfect for climbing. By 11:15 we were at our cache sight at ~13,600'. After digging a deep cache hole to protect our food from hungry ravens, we started off back downhill at 12:25. By 1:15 we were back at camp with plenty of time to rest and relax. The plan is to hit the sack pretty early tonight with the intention of moving our camp up to 14,200', colloquially known as Camp 4. We'll check back to let you know how it goes. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Casey and team.  So proud of all of you.

Posted by: Brian and janet on 6/20/2019 at 6:17 pm

Wow Casey…  we find it very interesting how you move your sleep equipment and your cache supplies on different days and move from site to site,

Posted by: Cheri Kenney on 6/20/2019 at 2:20 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team Rest Day at 17K Camp

Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 2:47 PM PT We had a slight breeze all night and while the flapping fabric was not enough to keep us up the first night at 17,200’, it had several people not sleeping well. The guides got up at 6:30 am to check the wind and weather. Snow was billowing up into the atmosphere and swirling down the slopes that we would need to climb. We pumped the brakes a bit to see what the heat from the rising sun would do to the winds. After a few more hours the snow was still spinning and we decided it was too late to begin a 12-hour summit bid. The early afternoon has us resting in warm tents and taking some laps around camp to force us to breath more. Just sitting in the tent won’t help us get ready tomorrow. Our plan is to get started shortly after the sun hits camp and be on top early afternoon. Everyone is feeling better then when we first got here yesterday and anxious to finish this wonderful expedition. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Gareth you have got this!! We’re all cheering you on here in PSL. Can’t wait to catch up when you are back!

Take Care :)

Posted by: Port Sunlight Team on 6/21/2019 at 3:53 am

Go team go, we are rooting for you Allan and for today’s summit!!!

Posted by: Bryan C-G on 6/20/2019 at 12:56 pm


Denali Custom Expedition: Hahn & Team Arrive in Talkeetna

Wednesday, June 19, 2019 - 7:22 AM PT Our expedition has begun and the hard part is done. We managed to come together in the Anchorage airport from throughout North America. As a bonus, all of our gear made it through as well. We loaded up in the traditional Denali Overland van and trailer and got out of rush hour Anchorage traffic for the three hour push to the North. We couldn’t see much of the mountains as clouds were down pretty low, so we focused on enjoying the many shades of green on the valley floor. A stop for groceries in Wasilla broke up the ride nicely and we arrived in Talkeetna by 8PM. There was a brief tour of town before the team settled for the night in the comfort of the Swiss Alaska Inn. The work begins in the morning-packing and permitting. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

hannah smith is the best

Posted by: Jaime Smith on 6/22/2019 at 11:17 am

Way to go to the King Team that just summited!  You guys are next!!!! :)  Keep making snow angels and stay strong!
Love,
Vicki

Posted by: Victoria Buchanan on 6/21/2019 at 7:38 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Rest Day at 11,200’

Tuesday, June 18, 2019 - 9:21 PM PT Our team enjoyed a rest day today, sleeping in and indulging in a cheesy breakfast scramble brunch. The day started out sunny and we were able to dry gear and charge electronics, but by the afternoon it was snowing lightly. Tomorrow we plan to carry a cache of food and fuel to ~13,600' around Windy Corner and then return to our current camp. That's the plan at least. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

On vacation and did the flight around Denali on this day and saw you guys as tiny dots below. So inspiring and breathtaking! Godspeed to you all and will be watching your progress now back in Texas!

Posted by: Rebecca on 6/20/2019 at 5:06 pm

Thank you for the daily updates.  It’s really neat to read about your progress…I feel part of the journey! :)  Hi to Casey.  Enjoy your experience!

Posted by: Amanda Day on 6/19/2019 at 6:50 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Make It on the Mountain

Tuesday, June 18, 2019 - 9:01 PM PT Today started out much the same as yesterday. We hurried through breakfast and headed to the airstrip to see what the flying conditions were for the morning. We received an optimistic thumbs down due to fog in basecamp. The pilots told us to be on standby because the weather was on an improving trend. After hanging out for a couple of hours we got the word that we could fly. After an amazing flight over the lush green Alaska terrain and into the stark mountians of the Alaska Range, we were delivered to basecamp safe and sound. We spent the day getting everything organized and ready to move to our next camp tonight. We travel at night in the lower glacier because the crevasse bridges are more firm and the sleds drag much easier when things are frozen. Let's hope the weather keeps improving. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

The exciting expedition is now underway!  Best wishes to all.

Posted by: Kathy Kikendall on 6/19/2019 at 6:24 pm

Wishing the entire team a safe and successful trip, and friendly skies!!

Posted by: Deborah Flinn on 6/19/2019 at 3:44 pm


Denali Expedition: King & Team Move Up to 17,200’

Tuesday, June 18, 2019 - 8:55 PM PT Well, today we finally got out of 14 Camp. We had spent eight nights there and by an early season Denali trip that’s nothing but for us and the weather we have had, it felt like an eternity. Today proved to be no cooler temperature wise, HOT going up the fixed lines and once we gained the West Buttress proper it was some of the figurative coolest ridge walking this group has done. We didn’t get great views due to thin clouds but that’s ok, our entire trip has been good views. We don’t know what tomorrow holds and we could take a rest day if needed. High pressure is building over Denali and we are hopeful to summit tomorrow. Getting to 17 Camp can be a chore, but once you're there Camp must be built, 6 XGK stoves must be managed to make drinking water and hot water for meals. Camp is situated in a glacial depression and we can see the Autobahn which plagues climbers for the first two hours on summit day. This section gets its name from how fast you can get going if you fall and are not clipped into the running belays. Other than a long day, the Team is doing mostly well. It’s normal to not feel 100% here at 17,200’. None of us are living our best lives physiologically, but we are really excited to have a crack at 20,320’. Thanks for the support and blog comments, I’ve been saving them for an alternative pep talk tonight instead of my traditional surly high school gym coach style motivational speech. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go team go! We’re rooting for you Allan and today’s possible summit!!!

Posted by: Bryan C-G on 6/20/2019 at 12:59 pm

Is so amazing what you are doing!!! Keep up the good work!!!
Please send my regards to Boris! We miss him!

Posted by: Laurent Villa on 6/19/2019 at 5:59 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz route today. The seminar team has spent this last week on the mountain training on snow and ice climbing techniques as well as crevasse rescue. They have enjoyed lectures from their guides, and demonstrations and practice in the techniques of American mountaineering. They are heading back to their camp where they will spend the night on the glacier before returning to RMI Basecamp tomorrow. Congratulations to today's team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations!  So excited for each of you. Especially Alek! 
What an achievement

Posted by: maureen carroll on 6/18/2019 at 1:31 pm

Congrats team! So wish I could’ve been there! Can’t wait to hear about it!

Posted by: Parker Pavlicek on 6/18/2019 at 1:00 pm


Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Arrive at Base of Mt. Elbrus

Today our senses were greeted with cool, fresh, clean mountain air as we stepped out of the van. It was a successful journey today from the big city to the Caucasus Mountains. This morning we had an alpine start followed by numerous airport cappuccinos, a tranquil flight to Mineralnye Vody, and three hours of driving through the Russian countryside. After four days of travel it’s great to finally be here at the base of the mountain. RMI Guide Tyler Reid
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