Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: June 8th Teams Reach the Top of the Cleaver

June 8, 2019

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,800'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Hannah Smith reached the top of Disappointment Cleaver before winter like conditions and a snow loaded trail forced them to turn. Mike reported that the team is on the descent just reaching Ingraham Flats en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow, what an experience!

Posted by: Deb Scholey on 6/9/2019 at 4:39 pm

Hard to predict weather. But, y’all have good sense and used it. Congratulations on your accomplishment! You did far more than I could have. Step safe

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/8/2019 at 11:04 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

June 7, 2019

Posted by: Mike King, Avery Parrinello, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Friday, June 7, 2019 - 7:17 PM PT We woke up to a calm and clear morning. The air was significantly warmer at the 4:30 am wake up call. A perfect day to get camp packed up and moved to 11,200’. The Team has seen all but the last three hours during our cache day. Leaving the snowshoes on our sleds we climbed up the Kahiltna glacier in crampons and made excellent time. Our goal was to beat any afternoon thunderstorms that had been rolling over Kahiltna Pass the last few afternoons. We pulled into camp shortly after 1 pm feeling the altitude and heavy pack/sled combo. I can hear some snoring from some as they nap in the heat of their tents. Others are reading and organizing their gear. Everyone in this group is doing well with the heavy loads and rapid swings in weather. Tomorrow we will get an early start so we can retrieve our cache at 9,300’ and then the remainder of the day will be our first “active rest” day. Light clouds are moving into camp but we still have great views of Kahiltna Dome and the West Buttress of Denali, the namesake of our climbing route. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Gorum and Team Move Back to 14,000’

June 7, 2019

Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 6, 2019 11:56 PM PT We woke up this morning and looked uphill at the summit again. We watched as winds increased up high. We watched a few teams leave camp and turn around before Denali pass. We looked at our dwindling food. We looked at our rapidly filling poop cans. When we added it all up, we decided that it was time to leave high camp. Four nights at 17,000 feet can seem like an icy eternity, but the team actually managed it quite well. There was nothing in the forecast that made us want to stay any longer, so we left. We’re back at 14 camp now, which seems like a beach resort in comparison. Some folks have decided they have had their fill, and some want to sit it out for a few more days, potentially trying again. Tomorrow we will flesh out our options and make a plan. For now, we are excited for the best nights sleep we’ve had in a while. We’re excited to eat something other than freeze dried food. We’re excited to be able to wear fewer than three jackets to bed. RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wise choice given the conditions you described. For those who want to try again, I hope you make it. Stay warm, and step safe. What a beautiful photo!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/7/2019 at 9:24 pm

Whatever choice you make, you’ve accomplished so much Brittni (and everyone else!). Diligently checking the blog daily; sunny Colorado is rooting for you!

Posted by: Kate Holmes on 6/7/2019 at 7:13 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Young & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 7, 2019

Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 6, 2019 10:06 PM PT Greetings from 14,000’! For the first time all trip, the weather was better than forecasted! We took full advantage early this morning, walking into the clouds for only a brief time before we were basking in the sun above 12,000’. It was a smooth move day up here to 14 Camp. We arrived early afternoon with plenty of time to completely set up camp, take naps, and then indulge in a veggie curry dinner. It was great to see our RMI friends JM and company as well as a plethora of other guides from other walks of life. It’s truly a city of friends up here at 14 Camp and our team is ecstatic to be here, especially given the squirrelly weather we’ve had over the last week. We’re all in the sleeping bags now, as it gets cold quickly up here; but we’re amped and ready to go back and pick up our windy corner cache tomorrow morning and be reunited with all of delicious lunch food and larger huge variety of meals. We’ll keep you posted on our progress. Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘Clean Plate Club’

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So glad weather improved! Good luck all! Step safe

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/7/2019 at 9:18 pm

Baldock…. go get it! DAs Office following you guys up!

Posted by: Marja on 6/7/2019 at 4:20 pm

View All Comments

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches 12,500’

June 7, 2019

Posted by: Eric Frank, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,500'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Eric Frank and Bryan Mazaika reached the Camp Comfort head-wall at 12,500' and were turned due to weather. Eric reported fresh snow on the route and 15 - 30 mph winds. The team is en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great climb and fantastic views.
Brian, Ross and Abby were real professional guides on the mountain.

Next time I’ll definitely make sure I have more gas in my tank.
I may have tapped out if we didn’t turn around due to weather, not sure, but each time the slope leveled out I seemed to get a second wind.

Trip was everything expected and then some.

Again, thanks to our guides for a safe trip.

P.S. I still owe Wesley and Vicky a beer for borrowing the carabiner.

Vicky, if you have the pic you took of me and my son Wes, I’d love to receive that via email, along with other great shots you may have, like the sunrise in the clouds.

Great climbing with you all.

Fred
(the old guy)

Posted by: Fred Whiting on 6/11/2019 at 11:00 am

Safe travels on the way down! Great job guys!

Posted by: Christina Rydbeck on 6/7/2019 at 11:25 am

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Supplies at 9,300

June 6, 2019

Posted by: Mike King, Avery Parrinello, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, June 6, 2019 - 5:04 PM PT There was a light breeze that rattled the tents last night. The first few nights away from a comfortable bed can be an adjustment. The Team woke to a cold and mostly clear morning. We pumped the brakes a bit to let the air warm up and see what the clouds were doing North of us in the interior. After breakfast the clouds lifted and we launched to take advantage of the clear skies before forecasted thunderstorms and snow arrived. Our route to the cache at 9,300’ takes us up Ski Hill (it’s got the grade of a ski hill) and along the flanks of Kahiltna Dome. The pack loads are heavy but the Team handled it with mostly smiles while taking the time to enjoy the scenic down glacier vistas. We have to cache our food and fuel in the snow so ravens do not dig it up, this typically requires a 1 meter deep hole. We are back in a white out at 7800’ Camp hanging in tents enjoying the solar and having some lunch. Tomorrow we hope to get clear skies and a cold/early start to beat the weather into 11,200’ Camp. Thanks for following along. Everyone is healthy and happy. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Following the blog. Have an amazing time and stay safe, enjoy the adventure
Love marie

Posted by: Marie Pope on 6/7/2019 at 1:55 pm

We’re following you and your team. What an amazing adventure! The photos are gorgeous. Stay safe and have a fantastic time!

Posted by: Stephanie Smith on 6/7/2019 at 4:38 am

View All Comments

Mt. Rainier: June 6th Summit!

June 6, 2019

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Jenny Konway

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Jenny Konway reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 9 AM today. Dave reported cool temperatures, and moderate winds. The team spend a short amount of time on the summit before starting their descent. Congratulations to Today's Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations! So good to hear good news from Mt. Rainier. Enjoy the descent, but step safe:)

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/6/2019 at 10:24 pm

Congratulations team, which route did you take?

Posted by: Shashikiran Konnur Sampathkumar on 6/6/2019 at 11:41 am

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: King & Team Fly to Glacier, Move to Camp 1

June 6, 2019

Posted by: Mike King, Avery Parrinello, Dominic Cifelli

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 10:39 PM PT Wow! We got a little bit of every weather pattern today on our move to Camp 1 located at 7,800’. It was overcast, hot, cold, windy, calm, thunder and we got two different rounds of snow. Back to the beginning of the day, our flight into the Alaska Range was spectacular. After a quick breakfast, K2 Aviation told us to suit up and put boots on, we were going flying. The Team did well with the heavy packs and sleds. We got into camp after seven hours and while the tents are bombproof, the rest is like that pig who made his house out of straw. Tomorrow we hope to carry half our camp up to 10,000’ but we might get weathered in. Regardless we’ll check in and look forward to another day on Denali. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great photo of you all!

Posted by: Susan Rogers on 6/7/2019 at 8:31 am

Good luck y’all! Great shot, and great way to begin your journey. Have and step safe!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/6/2019 at 10:18 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Young & Team Able to Make Carry to 13,000’

June 6, 2019

Posted by: Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 9:30 PM PT We had it all today. Sunshine, snow, raging snow, more sun, and even some thunderstorms...aka thunder snow. Regardless, our team snuck in our carry to Windy Corner at 13,000’. Progress! It was really nice to make some progress after a couple days of rest here at 11,000' Camp. The forecast is calling for more of the same for remainder of the week, so we’ll do what we’ve been doing everyday, we’ll wake up and stick our heads out of the tent early, and see if the mountain will allow us to make our move to 14,000’ Camp tomorrow. Fingers crossed! RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Mountain Zen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Expect to see some great pictures from the Summit!

Posted by: Thomas Keating on 6/7/2019 at 1:10 pm

Hey Steve congratulations on 14,000 ft camp! Stay strong you got this! Wishing you safety and good weather.

Posted by: Thomas Keating on 6/7/2019 at 1:05 pm

View All Comments

Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Make an Attempt at the Summit

June 5, 2019

Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Wednesday, June 5, 2019 - 4:43 PM PT Well, if it’s not one thing it’s another. The wind finally died down for us, and we had a beautiful start to our summit attempt. As we neared Denali pass and the top of the Autobahn, thunder started rumbling in the distance. In a matter of minutes we were underneath the leading edge of a 30,000 foot anvil. We tucked tail and ran back to camp, threading through climbers intent on continuing uphill. We can deal with cold, snow, and wind, but the only cure I know for lightning is distance. All in all it was a good day, considering we are all still healthy and happy. We’re going to regroup this afternoon, consider the forecast, and come up with a plan for the next few days. RMI Guide JM Gorum

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sending you all our love from Idaho, Brit and team! Glad you are all in this together :)

Posted by: Kat on 6/7/2019 at 8:23 am

Good luck Kirk, I hope the weather holds out for you.

Posted by: Tony and Carrie on 6/6/2019 at 8:44 pm

View All Comments

Previous Page Next Page

Check Availability

Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: June 8th Teams Reach the Top of the Cleaver

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Gorum and Team Move Back to 14,000’

Denali Expedition: Young & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches 12,500’

Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Supplies at 9,300

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 6th Summit!

Denali Expedition: King & Team Fly to Glacier, Move to Camp 1

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Young & Team Able to Make Carry to 13,000’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Make an Attempt at the Summit

On The Map

Contact Us

Privacy Policy

Translate

Log In

Register With Us

Check Availability

Entries from Expedition Dispatches

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

New Post Alerts:Expedition Dispatches

New Post Alerts:
Expedition Dispatches