Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Friday, May 31, 2019 12:14 AM PT
Today we went back downhill to gather all of our cached food and gear. We got it all without any noteworthy event. With the rest of the day, we sat around, ate our new snacks, and practiced some techniques for the fixed lines. We’re hoping to carry to the top of the fixed lines tomorrow if weather allows. The forecast is calling for some snow, but light winds. As long as winds stay calm we can probably get it done. We’ll see what we get and check in tomorrow.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
Thursday, May 31, 2019 12:11 AM PT
The team is know all safely back down at 14 camp and tucked in for the evening.
Summit day was a long hard fought battle but everyone did fantastic. The morning of our summit attempt we woke up in early in an attempt to beat the crowds up our first obstacle, the "auto bahn". This section often takes a couple hours to complete without a break and is steep and exposed. The exposure of this terrain requires us to use a form of running protection that protects the team against a fall but is quite time consuming. The end of this hurdle puts you at Denali Pass and our first rays of welcome sunshine. From here steep rolling glacier takes us up and around a swirled white and black rock feature known as "zebra rocks". At the top of this feature we were faced with a gentle but cold 15 mph wind. The terrain mellows out quite a bit as we meander through open glacier past a prominent rock point known "arch deacons tower" and into the football field, a flat depression just before our final slope to the summit ridge. Once on the summit ridge a short but dramatic climb brings us to the summit. The team took a few moments to take pictures and celebrate the ascent before our attention was turned toward getting back home. All in all the trip took us 13 hours round trip, all at elevations above 17,000 ft. With the summit behind us we turn our focus now to trying to truly get back home.
Cloudy and snowy weather are abundant in the extended forecast which means chances of flying off anytime soon are nil. Tomorrow we'll check the weather in the morning and make decision to further descend, or to keep the luxury of our fortified camp here at 14, or opt for better weather. That's all for now, it's late again as I'm writing this and I'm in need of some serious rest! Thanks for following along everyone!
RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team
Thursday, May 30, 2019 9:51 PM PT
Luck was on our side! We woke to clear skies and sunshine. And you know what sunshine means, we went and played in some
crevasses. Psyched that the weather hadn't arrived yet, we hit the snowy trail and walked to a beautiful section of the glacier. Tall rocky peaks stood all around us. Their sides full of hanging glaciers. We were safe out of harm's way but could see their ominous appearance. We spent the day ice climbing out of the crevasse and practicing our rope ascending skills. Everyone did a fantastic job in both activities. By the end of the day the forecasted weather started to creep in on us. A light breeze pushed at our backs almost assisting us back to camp. The clouds have begun to lower and small flurries float around camp. It is one of our team members birthdays tomorrow, and he is wishing for good weather. Let's hope his birthday wish is granted and this forecasted snow storm stays away another day.
Goodnight all,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
Thursday, May 30, 2019 9:33 PM PT
Hello Loyal RMI Blog Followers,
Greetings from 7800’ Camp, aka Camp 1, here on the Kahiltna Glacier. We’ve made the move! After a 3am wake up, our team got up and attem and we were making the first steps of our expedition by 5am. It was an absolute perfect morning for the move up the Kahiltna Glacier. The route was in perfect condition after a solid overnight refreeze, and the temps were ideal for hauling 100 lbs of food and gear across the Alaska wilderness. We made it to camp 1 in great style, pulling in this morning around 10:45. An early arrival allowed us ample time to build camp, settle in for some afternoon naps and enjoy an early dinner of tortellini and the Denali delicacy, Grandma’s Cookies. We’re tucked in the bags now, and hoping for a carry to 10,000’ tomorrow. It appears some snow is on the way for the weekend and into next week, so any chance to make some progress we will gladly take. We’ll keep you in the loop!
RMI Guides Robby Young, Nick Scott, Joe Hoch and Team Parmesan Cheese
Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 8:03 PM PT
Today we had a more relaxing morning than the past few alpine starts. High camp was cold and breezy, and we enjoyed breakfast in the comfort of our sleeping bags. Blowing snow was evident on the upper mountain, reminding us how fortuitous we were to have a good weather window in which to summit.
We let the air warm up a bit and the winds abate and then we packed up camp and descended the
West Buttress and the fixed ropes on the Headwall. We're now down in the relative warmth and comfort of the 14,200' camp. The air feels a lot thicker here now than when we left it a few days ago.
The plan is to get a good night's sleep and continue our descent tomorrow. The weather forecast is calling for a front to move in tonight bringing snow into Sunday. So we'll play it by ear with where/ when we descend, knowing that planes may not be able to fly into the Kahiltna airstrip until Sunday. We're all content and getting good rest for our long descent down the Kahiltna.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 9:26 PM PT
Howdy howdy. Its us again but this time from new location. We decided to pack up camp, load the sleds, and go for a walk. The clouds came and went, giving us gorgeous views of the surrounding peaks and than closing in us making it look like the inside of a pingpong ball. Regardless of where the clouds were though, the furnace was turned to high and sweat ran down our faces. The saying goes freeze or fry in the mountains and we felt the fry. Once we arrived to our new home, we put on our working gloves and got down to business. It's a lot of work putting in a new camp. You gotta make flat platforms for the tents, dig a bathroom, and dig a kitchen. But at the end of the day it feels good to work hard and do some shoveling. Tomorrow will be less work and more play hopefully. Looks like the weather will hold for one more day before the next weather system moves in. So we will take advantage of any sunshine we can get and go explore.
Time to catch some Zzz,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 26 - 31 team members gathered at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday, May 26th for their first day of the program. After some technical training and a thorough equipment check the team started for Camp Muir on Monday morning. The last few days have been spent near Camp Muir while
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Mike King led the team through glacier travel training and crevasse rescue. This morning the team left Camp Muir en route to the summit. Dave reported calms winds and mostly clear skies as the team reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier around 6:30 AM. The team enjoyed over an hour on the summit before starting their descent.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 12:56 AM PT
The team is all safely back at
High Camp now. It was a long day for everyone and it's past midnight now and were finally killing the stoves for the evening. I'll try and put together a better picture of summit day tomorrow for everyone. Stay tuned!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 12:26 AM PT
Summit!
The weather was beautiful this morning with no clouds above us and no sign of wind. We got the stoves cranking again at 4:30 in order to beat the crowds (today was the busiest summit day of the season so far, as there was a backup of climbers that were delayed by last week's stormy weather. We estimate about 100 climbers went for the summit today.). We got rolling out of camp at 8:30 and walked into the frigid, shady slopes of the Audobon, which is a steep traverse for a thousand feet up to
Denali Pass. We clipped about 40 snow pickets in a running belay to add security.
Around the corner from Denali Pass we stepped into the sun and began climbing south pass Zebra Rocks and the Arch Deacon's Tower into the Football Field. The last hurdle before the summit ridge was climbing up the strenuous Pig Hill up to the Kahiltna Horn. Then the narrow, corniced ridge brought us to the summit at 20,310'.
The climb is always challenging, but it was made more so due to cold 15-25 headwinds for most of the climb. We needed to wear goggles and face protection to keep from freezing our skin.
But we did it. And we're about to crawl into our sleeping bags at the 17,200' high camp for some well deserved sleep. Tomorrow we will start our descent.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 8:47 PM PT
This morning seems like weeks ago. We’re currently settled into our new home at
14 thousand feet, and life is good. Weather cooperated for us all day long, and the team moved quite well. For some reason this camp always seems to have the best weather. A lot of storms that hit 11 and the lower Kahiltna don’t make it this high, and winds that ravage the summit elevations don’t quite make it this low. We’re currently sitting in the sun looking out at a sea of clouds that are certainly covering, and snowing on, our old home. One more reason that we’re happy to be up here. It’s always a hard day getting here, and we’re all ready for dinner and an early bedtime. Tomorrow we’ll walk 500 feet downhill to retrieve our cache, and we’ll spend the rest of the day chilling hard. Until then, the team sends their best to everyone back at home.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
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You go, Dad! Hope the knot tying is going swimmingly. Love you!!
Posted by: Jillian Ludwig on 5/31/2019 at 3:11 pm
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