Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Saturday, June 1, 2019 - 8:40 PM PT
We are one step closer to flying of the glacier. Today we made our way back to [url=https://www.rmiguides.com/denali/alaska-mountaineering-seminar]https://www.rmiguides.com/denali/alaska-mountaineering-seminar[/url] in hopes the clouds would part and the planes could land. Unfortunately it stayed cloudy and snowy all day. Tomorrow there could be a chance the weather has some lulls and teams can fly off. Basecamp is a lot busier than when we left it a few days ago. There are many teams that came down from the summit hoping to fly. Tomorrow will be a busy one for Basecamp if the planes come in. Fingers crossed we can catch a ride and see some greenery. But until than we will keep chilling and lounging until it's our time to hit the sky.
Come on mother nature,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Not much going on at
14,000' Camp today. We ate a late breakfast, and have been watching it snow all day. It’s pretty easy to take a rest day when the weather doesn’t permit much else. Folks have been alternating between reading, napping, and guessing what’s going on in the real world. At this point, with our cache up high, we’ve done all that we can do to prepare to summit this mountain. Now we just rest, recuperate, and wait for good weather. If the forecast holds, we might not have to wait very long, but we will see.
We’ll check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
RMI Guides
Brent Okita and
Jenny Konway radioed down from
Columbia Crest, the true summit of Mt. Rainier, this morning to let everyone know that the team reached the summit. Brent reported clear skies, a calm breeze, and perfect weather for a day of climbing. The team began their descent from the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at about 7:30am PT and will be back in town for a celebration dinner later today.
Congratulations to today's team!
Friday, May 31, 2019 - 9:41 PM PT
What a great day it’s been! We were optimistic when our alarms went off at 4 am that very little snow slid off the top of our tent. The snowfall forecasts under produced and we were up and attem and out of Camp by 6:30 am getting a carry and cache in at the
10,000’ corner. Light snow and clouds kept us cool and happy all day, and despite the lack of views, we were treated to some amazing light on the surrounding glaciers off and on all day. We made it back to camp in time for some afternoon naps and finished our day with a Nick Scott Quesadilla Fiesta for the ages. Gourmet salsas, perfectly hydrated beans, and chicken pepper combos were the rage. Seconds were in high demand. Good conversations were had and then it was time to hit the hay for what looks to be a good day to move camp to 11,000’ tomorrow.
Until then, have a great night and we’ll let you know how it goes tomorrow.
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Quesadilla Fiesta
On The Map
Friday, May 31, 2019 - 9:22 PM PT
Today we practiced the rest day. A day full of reading, listening to music, watching TV shows, sporting eating, napping or whatever you can come up with to occupy your time. Being able to entertain yourself all day while it snows outside is an important skill to have on
big mountains. It was a light snow today with limited visibility. But the sun's heat made it through the clouds making it rather toasty in the tents. You mix heat and being on the glacier for nine days, you get a pretty stinky tent. Lucky for us though showers are in our near future with a potential for flying off the glacier tomorrow. The forecast is looking better, so hopefully we can here the otters in the morning and catch a ride. Otherwise we will continue to practice resting for another day.
Let's hope for blue skies,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Friday, May 31, 2019 7:58 PM PT
Today we woke to relatively warm temperatures and light snow. As we looked up to the ridge of the
West Buttress there didn’t appear to be any winds, although a bit of snow continued to fall. After a speedy breakfast we decided to make moves and head on up the mountain to cache gear somewhere above the fixed lines. Throughout the first few hours of the day we progressed apprehensively, wary of some menacing looking clouds that were lingering higher up on the mountain, but as we cruised up the fixed lines we were treated with warm temperatures and light winds. This enabled us to progress to 16,600 feet to dig a cache to store some gear to support ourselves for our summit bid. After a quick break we turned around and headed back down to 14 Camp where we are now relaxing and waiting to eat some dinner! Spirits are high and we are all looking forward to a rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt
Friday, May 31, 2019 4:36 PM PT
With the forecast still calling for heavy snow we have opted to stay in the confines of our camp here a
14K. The team enjoyed a late morning breakfast and is now napping away the afternoon. Sunday is still looking like our first possible day to fly off the glacier with the weather only improving into Monday and Tuesday. The plan as of now will still be to launch downhill around midday tomorrow and travel all the way to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna hopefully chasing improving weather down glacier and ultimately a flight out of here early Sunday morning. We'll see what hand we are dealt with tomorrow. The hope here is to avoid having to travel and set up camp in bad weather but rather time it just right that we walk straight into a plane. For the time being however, we rest and wait for our opportunity.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Friday, May 31, 2019 2:49 PM PT
Nothing is easy about climbing
Denali. Just ask any member of our team who worked hard for more than two weeks before standing on top of the highest point in North America 17 days after landing at Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. But that doesn't even tell the whole story. Our team eagerly awaited the start of this expedition and spent three antsy days in Talkeetna waiting for good enough weather to fly into Basecamp as a storm sat over the Alaska Range. Now, after summitting, we have descended to the 14k camp and are comfortably nestled in to our old camp. We are socked in the clouds and it is snowing. This morning we spoke via radio with Robby Young, who is leading the 4th RMI Denali expedition. He reported heavy and wet snow on the Kahiltna Glacier between 7800' and 9600'. The weather forecast is calling for heavy snow to continue through tomorrow, hopefully tapering on Sunday. No planes are flying and we are at the mercy of the weather once again. This time we are eagerly awaiting hot showers, cold beer, clean clothes, and a chance to talk with loved ones. Oh, and also flush toilets. Not necessarily in that order.
Mountain weather is fickle and right now we are at her mercy. We'll take the good weather on summit day in exchange for playing the waiting game on both the front and tail ends of our expedition. And for now we're practicing our Zen patience in the comfort of our 14k camp.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Friday, May 31, 2019 12:14 AM PT
Today we went back downhill to gather all of our cached food and gear. We got it all without any noteworthy event. With the rest of the day, we sat around, ate our new snacks, and practiced some techniques for the fixed lines. We’re hoping to carry to the top of the fixed lines tomorrow if weather allows. The forecast is calling for some snow, but light winds. As long as winds stay calm we can probably get it done. We’ll see what we get and check in tomorrow.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
Thursday, May 31, 2019 12:11 AM PT
The team is know all safely back down at 14 camp and tucked in for the evening.
Summit day was a long hard fought battle but everyone did fantastic. The morning of our summit attempt we woke up in early in an attempt to beat the crowds up our first obstacle, the "auto bahn". This section often takes a couple hours to complete without a break and is steep and exposed. The exposure of this terrain requires us to use a form of running protection that protects the team against a fall but is quite time consuming. The end of this hurdle puts you at Denali Pass and our first rays of welcome sunshine. From here steep rolling glacier takes us up and around a swirled white and black rock feature known as "zebra rocks". At the top of this feature we were faced with a gentle but cold 15 mph wind. The terrain mellows out quite a bit as we meander through open glacier past a prominent rock point known "arch deacons tower" and into the football field, a flat depression just before our final slope to the summit ridge. Once on the summit ridge a short but dramatic climb brings us to the summit. The team took a few moments to take pictures and celebrate the ascent before our attention was turned toward getting back home. All in all the trip took us 13 hours round trip, all at elevations above 17,000 ft. With the summit behind us we turn our focus now to trying to truly get back home.
Cloudy and snowy weather are abundant in the extended forecast which means chances of flying off anytime soon are nil. Tomorrow we'll check the weather in the morning and make decision to further descend, or to keep the luxury of our fortified camp here at 14, or opt for better weather. That's all for now, it's late again as I'm writing this and I'm in need of some serious rest! Thanks for following along everyone!
RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team
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Just read seminar description. Sounds like the clients are intelligent people. Too many head to difficult mountains without knowing even basic climbing skills. I commend each of you, and wish y’all long lives, and safe climbing experiences!
Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/1/2019 at 11:38 pm
Until it clears enough for the pilots, you can socialize and play, or learn new skills. It doesn’t sound like any seminar I’ve ever been to. Sounds like a rough day. Lol! Enjoy the views. Spectacular!
Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/1/2019 at 11:29 pm
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