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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team See Improvements in the Weather

The weather has definitely been improving for us. The winds have calmed, and only light snow has fallen today. The storm produced a little over two feet of snow, with deeper drifts. Hopefully the improving trend continues and we can move camp tomorrow. We're all ready and rested for some more climbing. That's all the news from up high today. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. Rainier: May 18th Update - Summit!

Congratulations to the Four Day Summit Climb team led by Adam Knoff! They reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! The team left Camp Muir with clear and pleasant weather. As the climb progressed a front moved in and the team experienced some light snowfall and 10 mph winds. They spent some time on the summit and began their descent at 9:15 a.m.
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It was great climbing with you all and thanks to all of our guides.

Posted by: Josh on 5/22/2013 at 7:22 pm

YAY good job daddy!!! and happy birthday!!! Keith Hutchinson!!!!!

Posted by: Nate Hutchinson on 5/19/2013 at 4:45 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Have Another Day in Talkeetna

Woke up this morning to snow on the ground and sleet falling from the sky. It turns out that this doesn't make for the safest bush flights or glacier landings so we spent another day hanging out in Talkeetna. We ate a lot of food, hung out some, practiced crevasse rescue, hung out some more, and some of us even drank a couple beers. Tomorrow is calling for more of the same but with a chance of partial clearing later in the day. We have our fingers crossed... More to come as our expedition gets off the ground, RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team Holding Strong at Basecamp

It is fascinating how much the weather can test us. One more day of a strong storm kept us in camp, but we find things to do to keep ourselves busy. Here is how the day went for us: Woke up with about a foot of new snow, had to do some maintenance in camp before any items got buried. Then time to eat breakfast. Lisa, Kahiltna Basecamp Manager, rallied everybody in basecamp to stomp the runway, then we did a class in avalanche decision making and transceiver and probing work. After dinner, Akira finished snow blocks to make an arch that marks the entrance of our bathroom. Impressive work!!! Now it is time for us to go sleep. The strong front that is passing should start weakening tomorrow. High hopes for that. We all are staying happy and learning from the mountain. Living the dream!!!! RMI Guide Andres Marin

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Calls in from Camp 1

Update 6:30 a.m. PST Hey, this is Dave Hahn calling from Camp 1 with Seth Waterfall and Dan Johnson. We finally got out of Basecamp. We're on our way down for our summit bid. A beautiful day today for the start of it at least. And then about the time we were about mid morning or so when we were getting up here to Camp 1, the wind clouds and cloud caps started forming over the high peaks. Made us a little bit worried for our friends who were going to the summit today but sounds like things went well for the folks we know up there. And we know a number of people that left for the summit today so that is encouraging. In fact, with some of the cloud play up there, we were able to actually see people on top which I don't remember being able to do from Camp 1 before so that was pretty exciting. And neat to go through the Icefall again, actually very frightening to go through the Icefall again, but neat to work our muscles and get up here close to 20,000' again. Lam Babu and Yubaraj are up at Camp 2 tonight. And they're getting Camp 2 ready for our arrival tomorrow. That's our hope is to get up early in the morning tomorrow and move what should be a relatively easy day up to Camp 2. But like I say nice to be up here. We've been talking to Mark Tucker down at Basecamp. Sounds like all is going well and the forecast is still looking good for when we want to get close to the top in four days or five days, something like that. And so keep following along. And hopefully we'll keep making upward progress. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


Dave Hahn calls in from Everest Camp 1.

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So excited for you Dan!! Wishing you all a safe journey. xo

Posted by: Karen on 5/18/2013 at 12:03 pm

Hi Guys -
Good to hear that you are moving up.  Hope the weather continues to let you move quickly.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/18/2013 at 10:03 am


Mt. Everest: The Team Begins Their Summit Bid!

Update sent 4:59 a.m. PST Off we go! Seth the Sherpa man left Everest Basecamp early with Lam Babu to retrieve gear from Camp 2 and bring down to Camp 1. They met up with Dave and Dan then Lam Babu went back to Camp 2 for the night. The team decided to make use of Camp 1 on this rotation for ease of travel. A good number of climbers summited today under nice conditions most of the time. Three remaining Sherpa here at Basecamp will go up to Camp 1 tomorrow and bring all equipment down to Basecamp except rescue and medical. Getting a head start on clearing the mountain. Forecast is still looking good. Dave and crew report all is well at a very quiet Camp 1. RMI Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

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Mt. McKinley: Waiting Game Continues at 11,000’

Another day goes by and we are still here at the 11k Camp. The winds have died down for the most part, but it is snowing and visibility is nearly zero. We're still doing well, tent bound mostly. Hopefully the storm passes soon and we can move camp up higher. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. Everest: The Team is Ready to Start Their Summit Bid!

Bags are packed and the Everest team is ready! We have been busy with last minute sewing and labeling of food and gear for each camp. Checked re-checked. All systems are go. Weather has been a bit tough right now, but the forecast is good for the planned summit day. A couple of showers to help with soon to be shared tents. All good. Sad to report the Khumbu Country Club golf course is now closed for the season. The fairways are a bit to hollow and wet. We still have our horseshoe pit in great shape, and guess who had a double ringer to end the game today? Up early tomorrow, let the summit bid begin! RMI Guide and Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Dan!! This is it buddy. Time to dig in and get going. Good luck on your bid for the summit! Hugs xo

Posted by: Lauralea on 5/18/2013 at 8:33 am

Godspeed as you reach for the stars. See you all in September at Mountain Fest in Ashford. Beer & burgers!

Posted by: Rick on 5/18/2013 at 8:22 am


Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent & Team Waiting Out the Storm in Talkeetna

Update 10:34 am PST Billy called from Talkeetna to give us an update: It is snowing in Talkeetna and the team will not be flying today. Update from 5/16/13 at 11:00 pm PST Checking in from a rainy Talkeetna... We woke up early this morning and headed over to the hangar after a quick breakfast at the Roadhouse hoping to finish up our last odds and ends and fly on to the glacier. While we were weighing the last of our luggage for the flight, the K2 staff told us the bad news: snowing at basecamp, flat light, and a low cloud ceiling. Translation: no go for us. So we hung out most of the day today eating food and worrying about what we forgot to pack while the rain gradually built up all day. Unfortunately, it's not looking good for tomorrow either so we may have to organize a pingpong tournament in the hangar. Despite the crummy weather the team is in good spirits and looking forward to our big adventure. We'll check in tomorrow, hopefully from Kahiltna Basecamp. All for now, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Pete will kill you all in Ping Pong!  ;)

Posted by: Bennie on 5/17/2013 at 11:16 am


Mt. Rainier: May 17th Update

Casey Grom and the Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climb called in early this morning. Due to low visibility the team made the decision to turn at 13,300’. The team is en-route to Camp Muir, and expected back at Basecamp this afternoon. Tyler Reid and Adam Knoff are heading up to Camp Muir to start their Five and Four Day Summit Climbs respectively.
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