Today was a good day.
Folks keep commenting on how this place keeps getting more stunning. With the new snow we have had recently, the contrast of the Alaskan Range with its freshly painted steep spines, flutes that glow in the alpine light and bright blue glacial ice glistening in the sun. I have to agree.
We have been waking up around seven each morning to some very chilly temperatures. Today camp was busy since some stable weather moved in and people took advantage of being out in it. We spent our entire day putting our skills to use. Everyone set up 6:1 crevasse rescue system simulating an actual crevasse fall of their climbing partner. We took a turn catching a fall, being lowered into the crevasse, and being the climber responsible for running the show. Everyone did very well and we were impressed.
After that we still had plenty of time left so we fixed some lines - ropes - and rappelled down into the crevasse where we transitioned into icicle climbing mode. I think a couple folks might have just acquired a new but expensive sport.
Now we are all chilling, making some pretty amazing quesadillas - the group contributions has allowed for some creative visions.
We'll see what we get into tomorrow.
Good night from the land of the six hour sunset.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Just a question, is this the group with an Aussie by the name of Nick Coleman? Was hoping to keep tabs on his progress. Thank you
Posted by: Larry Bullock on 5/10/2012 at 7:40 am
Hi guys!! Being down in the crevasse sounds amazing!! I’m sad to miss that bit… I’m excited to get up there and join Brandi and Gilbert. I can’t wait to hear about the Kahiltna. Sheena just did a video report about McKinley for the class; not much personality came through until she talked about the farting that goes on at altitude. I’m sure there’s none of THAT going on. xooxoxoxoxo see you soon in gorgeous Alaska!! elizabitch. ps. great updates, Jason. Thanks!
Hello, this is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp. We're resting and hiking and we're watching the progress of the weather conditions. It has been snowing a little bit every day and it seems, from what we have been told, that conditions have gotten a little bit better on the upper mountain. There was significant progress yesterday. A team of climbers, sherpas made it to the South Col. The route is fixed all the way to 8,000 meters now. Our sherpa team is going up tomorrow morning up to Camp 2 to check out conditions and see whether it makes sense for them to get on the wall to establish our Camp 3 and Camp 4. There is supposed to be, the next few days, supposed to be calm with continued light snow each day and we are seeing that is a good thing. Then the winds are supposed to come back, the jet stream is supposed to move into the mountains, but briefly, and then we are hoping for a break in conditions after the middle of the month. So it is going to be a little bit of a down time for the climbing team and we are keeping ourselves busy, like I say, with hiking and eating and resting and games. So far so good. Things seemed to have calmed down on Mt. Everest. Bye for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello Dave and Melissa: I just got on your blog a week or so ago and have enjoyed your posts! Wishing the best in climbing for you and certainly hope the conditions start to improve so you can get to your goal: a summitt attempt! Things are good in Seattle and I hope to get on Mt. Rainier a couple times this summer. Then the best part: the Mountain Festival! Hope you’ll both be in attendance again since it’s so good to visit and hear your climbing experiences. My radio station is supposed to be getting in touch with RMI to set things up for another weekend of coverage. Sending good climbing vibes your way, so good luck! Mike Brown
Posted by: Mike Brown on 5/9/2012 at 11:00 pm
Good climbing, David .
hoped to meet your father and Lisa in Boston at the end of this month but Memorial w/e is not propitious for Ron to drive. I read about your intrepid hike with Ron in Yosemite. Remarkable, and so well written.
Regards and Berg Heil from Your distant relative
This morning we woke to more snow on the Kahiltna Glacier. Over 7 inches of snow fell over night and the snow continued throughout the day. The beauty of the Alaskan Range continues to impress us all.
Today's training session involved the fitting topic of avalanches. We had avalanche rescue scenarios where we learned how to manage the scene of an accident, how to come up with a plan and how to execute that plan. During our time here on the glacier we have seen some very exciting and impressive Alaskan-sized avalanches, from a safe distance. We continued with our crevasse rescue technical skills training this afternoon. Everyone is grasping these concepts very well with an eagerness and excitement to learn.
We shall see what the weather brings us as that dictates so much of life in the mountains.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Yeah, by the looks of the picture, you are all sitting around basking in the sunshine! Speaking of cocktails, I just had 2 strawberry margaritas myself, Honey! Too bad you aren’t here to partake!(Are we allowed to talk dirty on this blog??!!!) LOL! Feeling a little frisky!!! Can’t wait to see you Baby! Big Hug!
Posted by: Mary Kay on 5/8/2012 at 5:52 pm
Great to hear you are all doing well playing in the snow. Jason, how about a group shot of the team so we know you aren’t all sitting in a hot spring somewhere with a cocktail? Actually, I am sure you all could use a hot spring and a cocktail (or 5) right about now. Have fun, be safe. Brady, we can’t wait to make fun of your beard and squeeze the juice out of you! xoxoxo Janie
Once again we woke to a beautiful morning today at the base of Mt. McKinley. Our day has been filled with technical information. We have thoroughly covered rappelling, fixed line travel, self extrication from a crevasse, and reviewed our knots and anchor systems. We will continue to put these skills to good use when we implement them into crevasse rescue scenarios. The planes have been buzzing around basecamp today dropping climbers on the glacier. The climbing season is getting underway here in the Alaskan Range. It is super fun to be right in the middle of it all.
Until next time. The Alaskan Seminar is signing off.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Brady…Greetings to you as you gather all of this valuable information..Hope you are having fun and learning how to extricate yourself from crevasses!!! Love you, miss you, look forward to your return!!!
love, Mom &Dad;
Tent life continues. Zippers make my doors, frost wakes me in the morning as it rains down when I move about in my little constricted space. No complaints here, just a bit of longing for those creature comforts I appreciate for at least a week when I return home, till I once again settle in on expecting those niceties to be at my beck and call. We have been getting some snow showers, so don't forget to shake the toilet tent before entering or there is a good chance of getting a pile and I mean pile of snow down the back of your coat prior to entry. Definitely avoid this scenario, take my word that those three or so minutes of melt freeze down the back is no fun. Thank goodness for all the miracle fabrics from First Ascent, rest assured warmth is just around the corner.We have the cush life here at base camp compared to trips like Denali or what is soon to come for the team on the upper mountain here at Everest.
The team went for a nice hike to Kala Patar today. A nearby ridge hike with beautiful views of the upper part of Everest. We are too near the base to see the upper mountain form here. Lam Babu and Pasang made a trip up to
Camp 2 to check in on how things are holding up. Last thing you want is a big surprise when you arrive at an upper camp on a move day. He reports everything is in good shape. Sounds like there will be a push toward Camp 4 and the South Col tomorrow. A strong team will put the needed ropes in place to allow for safe travels to the final camp before the summit push.
We will have a meeting with Lam Babu tomorrow and will go over the whats and whens to keep this expedition moving forward. Not yet the summit push but we are getting closer everyday. These rest days and upper mountain tactics have proven effective in the past. As the route gets better and the weather continues to improve so do our attitudes.The excitement of the summit is helping carry the minds and bodies of this terrific group of climbers
onward and upward.
All's well at Everest Base Camp,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Glad to hear it’s been snowing a bit. Hope the weather improves for you guys
Zachary Zaitzeff
Posted by: zachary zaitzeff on 5/7/2012 at 5:56 pm
Be patient and stay strong…it will all work out as it should. We are all pulling for the teams to have safe summits. Thank you so much for the updates, we really enjoy sharing in your adventures on the mountain.
Hello again from the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Temperatures have remained chilly at night around here. Although a brief period of snow yesterday afternoon brought in some slightly warmer temperatures.
Yesterday we walked underneath the north Buttress of Mt. Hunter as we traveled further up the SE fork for some training. The scenery was breathtaking. The weather has been splendid.
Today we all summitted the Control Tower. Some moderate glacier travel gave us access to a beautiful Alaska snow ridge to the top. Wonderful views of the Alaskan Range were had from the top.
Everyone has adjusted well to life on the glacier.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Snowy, cold and grey morning at Mt. Everest Basecamp. Which is not entirely a bad thing. In fact, we want it to keep snowing for a few days in order to change the dangerously icy conditions that exist up high on the mountain. Of course, snow down here at 17,500 ft. doesn't translate to snow up at 25,000 ft, but we can only hope. The consensus between guides and expedition leaders on the mountain is that we need some sort of change before we can responsibly send climbers and Sherpas onto the rock-strafed flanks of Lhotse again.
This situation makes for a slightly tougher than normal mental game for Everest climbers. Normally, in this first week of May we'd be putting the finishing touches on our conditioning and acclimatization in preparation for the summit. And although we did what we could toward those goals on our last rotation up the hill, it wasn't much without a day or two on the Lhotse Face. But that could not be helped. Unfortunately, we saw, heard of, and dealt with several instances of other climbers getting slammed by rock. Such poor odds of success were not for us. So now we are resting at basecamp and we are in limbo. If the snow actually sticks to the blue ice of the Lhotse Face the chance of a rock blowing off the summit of the 4th highest mountain in the world and hurtling unimpeded down toward our fixed ropes would be greatly reduced and we'd be back in business. If that happens sooner, then we might even have a chance to go back up for a more thorough acclimatization rotation before the summit bid. If time drags on a bit before that snow sticks… we may be left with just a shot at the summit. And if time drags on for several weeks without the change we need… a decent shot at the top is in doubt.
In our favor, the jet stream winds that were raking the mountain (and setting free thousands of precariously perched rocks up high) have eased. The word is that the jet is to the South of the mountain now and that relatively low winds are going to be with us… which normally allows for cloud formation and some daily snow. In our favor, there are still teams willing to risk the rockfall (and now snow sluffs) of the Lhotse Face and so we'll get daily reports as to conditions up high and perhaps the route will still get scratched in despite the hazards. We certainly wouldn't ask anyone to endure these conditions, but we aren't so proud and stubborn that we wouldn't take advantage of the good results of such labor when conditions turn favorable.
It is hang loose time. Cards, books, movies, naps, meals, get-togethers with other climbers, walks out to "Icy Cyber" (the position ten minutes out in the glacier that gets 3G service), conversations about the weather, the icefall, the fixed ropes and the helicopters… incidentally, there are none today and it is quiet like back in the old days, thanks to the snow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello from the Kahiltna Glacier! We woke to frigid temperatures on our first morning, with the temperatures reaching negative 25 F. Thankfully the sun came out to play and things quickly warmed up for us. We enjoyed our first day exploring the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
Everyone is doing great. We'll check in soon.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Brandi and Gilbert!! I can’t wait to get up there with you! Ill bring some CA sunshine and see you in just a few days!! I got all of us girls coordinated pee bottles! Cheers! Xoxo
Posted by: elizabeth on 5/6/2012 at 10:43 am
Hi Daddy (Brady) just read Rosie’s visitors (book) now. Making a habitat out of a tree branch I will show u my habitat. Hope u r having a good time miss u love u bye COME HOME SOON
Mom & Dylan want PREZZIES mine is optional.
Arriving back at Base Camp always comes with a sigh of relief. Today was no different, except perhaps the sigh was bigger. We spent five days and four nights at Camp 2, deep in the Western Cwm. The jet stream was sitting very near the top of Everest, which sounds an awful lot like a freight train roaring in the night. The purpose of this rotation was for our team to acclimatize and further prepare for our summit bid. We set out with the hopes of sleeping at Camp 2 and walking to Camp 3. Like always, you have to pause and listen to what the mountain is telling you. This season has been very windy and dry, and as we have been making plans to get high on the mountain, we have been hearing stories of rockfall coming from above. A certain amount of flexibility has been a vital part of our plan. Yesterday, we set out for a walk towards a new path up the Lhotse Face. The fixed line and route were just being established as we arrived, providing a seemingly safer way to access Camp 3. We enjoyed our walk (actually, that is a slight lie, as it was very very windy, but it did the trick of getting us some exercise) and headed back to our camp for lunch. The route has proven to us that it is dry and not welcoming travelers. It is the beginning of May. We need some new snow. Now we wait, now we listen. I am ready for some rest right now, as is the the team. So, for now I can find gratitude in being down at Base Camp, out of the wind, but back in the waiting game.
RMI Guide Melissa Arnot
Enjoying the blogs and the great photographs. The wind and falling rocks still sound to be giving you great problems. Most teams appear to have the same thoughts by putting the safety of their teams above everything else.It appears to be the same situation at both camps.I understand that SBC have a time limit on their expedition whereas CBC have a much longer window, until the monsoon season.I doubt teams would have the patience to hang about that long. I wish you all well with successful summits.Cheers Kate
Hello,
This is Dave Hahn calling from Advanced Base Camp on Mt. Everest. Beautiful day today, it was kind of windy last night and wind continued during the day. Roaring up above and just gusting down below where we were. We went for a hike, a roped up hike with crampons and ice axes, exploring the upper end of the Western Cwm. We went up to the start of a new climbing route, a new way of accessing the Lhotse face that a number of friends of ours were working hard to put in today. We wanted to check out their efforts and get a look at the terrain over there. So this a bit several hundred meters to one side of the existing route where it crosses the Bergschrund at the base of the face which is a little too active in rock fall in the conditions that we have right now. So this is an effort to try to find an alternative. It was a good outing for us. We were out for about 3 hours and enjoyed working against the altitude and working in the cold wind and seeing things from a little bit different angle. We came back and spent the afternoon in camp.
Consensus is that conditions are pretty dry and dangerous on the Lhotse face. So many teams were not having their members or Sherpa go up on the standard route, but others were. Our intention now, not being able to safely climb at the moment without some new snow or some change, is to head down to Base Camp in the morning. So that is what we are looking to do – up early and heading down.
That’s all for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Just a question, is this the group with an Aussie by the name of Nick Coleman? Was hoping to keep tabs on his progress. Thank you
Posted by: Larry Bullock on 5/10/2012 at 7:40 am
Hi guys!! Being down in the crevasse sounds amazing!! I’m sad to miss that bit… I’m excited to get up there and join Brandi and Gilbert. I can’t wait to hear about the Kahiltna. Sheena just did a video report about McKinley for the class; not much personality came through until she talked about the farting that goes on at altitude. I’m sure there’s none of THAT going on. xooxoxoxoxo see you soon in gorgeous Alaska!! elizabitch. ps. great updates, Jason. Thanks!
Posted by: elizabeth on 5/10/2012 at 3:30 am
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