Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at Washburn’s Thumb

June 30, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday, June 30th, 2013 Greetings! After spending some time resting and recuperating at 14K Camp, we jumped on the tiger today, aka the fixed lines, and climbed to 16,700' to cache gear and food at Washburn's Thumb. The steep and often exposed climbing was some of first of the expedition, and the team performed exceptionally. The hard work of the day was rewarded with a team favorite meal consisting of Annie's Mac and Cheese with bacon. Tomorrow will be spent resting back in the comfort of 14K Camp while we wait on a favorable weather forecast to begin our final move up to Denali's high camp. Best, RMI Guides Robby, Pete, Geoff and Team

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team To Thicker Air

June 30, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Saturday, June 29th, 2013 After a good sleep, we woke up and started packing. The goal for the day was to get as low and as far as possible to set us up for flying off the mountain tomorrow. The crux of the walk out is timing the walk out on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. We have to walk across this part while the snow bridges over the crevasses are frozen. This means a late night/early morning walk to the air strip. We made it all the way to 11k Camp so we are set up to walk the glacier at the right time...as long as we only sleep for two hours! Wish us luck and good weather so we can fly tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6 P.S. Grasshopper wants to thank Annie and Rose for the support and sacrifices!

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Slightly Elevated at 9,600’

June 30, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Saturday, June 29th, 2013 Conditions at 4:45 AM were perfect for moving from 8,000' on the Kahiltna Glacier to 9,600 ft. So we did. We'd gotten up at 2:00 a.m. to have a hot breakfast and we could see scattered clouds overhead and a cap above Denali's summit but there was no wind. Our route up Ski Hill was blissfully free of dicey crevasse crossings and the snow surface had frozen up enough to make walking and sled pulling a bit easier than yesterday. Even so, Ski Hill was long, slow, and uphill. We were up to 9,600' in just over three and a half hours. Already by this point, digging in and building a new camp in a beautiful place was becoming routine. Clouds cleared down valley so that we had unobstructed views of nearly the entire length of the Kahiltna while we worked. The sun became brutally intense by midday, but by then we were sheltered in the tents, napping, drinking water and reading. We got together for dinner in the evening as things cooled down. We talked strategy for our move to 11,000', secured camp for the night and turned in early once again. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Thankful for technology that gives a picture into this experience. 93 in Tacoma. Headed for Whidbey and Dungeness crab tomorrow. Prayers for your safety going up constantly.

Posted by: Donna Nelson on 6/30/2013 at 4:23 pm

Mike & Max Reese + team - Wishing you cold , firm snow and calm weather during your ascent! Thinking of you while sitting on a beach in Costa Rica. Best Wishes!

Posted by: David Reese on 6/30/2013 at 3:05 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 30th Update - Summit!

June 30, 2013

Posted by: Casey Grom, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Casey Grom and the Five Day Muir Climb led by Eric Frank reached the top of Mt. Rainier this morning! Casey radioed at 7:42 a.m. from Columbia Crest, the highest point on Mt. Rainier, and reported a very nice day. Both teams began their descent at 8:15 a.m. Congratulations to a job well done by our guides and climbers!

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Great job dad! I can’t wait to hear all about your adventure.

Posted by: Craig on 7/1/2013 at 2:58 am

Spectacular, Kevin and Terry! So happy for you:-).

Posted by: Jahn Hart on 6/30/2013 at 12:15 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 29, 2013 Update

June 29, 2013

Posted by: Sean Collon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,700'

Thunder, lightning and white-out conditions kept the Four Day Summit Climb from reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team was able to reach an elevation of 12,700’ before making a decision to turn around and head for better conditions lower on the mountain. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Five Day Summit Climb Team will spend the day at Camp Muir acclimatizing before making their summit attempt tonight.

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Congratulations to everyone! Jesse, we’ve got the bubbly waiting!

Posted by: The Cude Girls on 6/30/2013 at 9:02 am

Good luck, Dad! I wish I was there with you like we’d planned. Pretty soon you’ll have more bragging rights over me. Love, Craig

Posted by: Craig Cude on 6/30/2013 at 12:43 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Summit!

June 29, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,320'

Friday, June 28th, 2013 Summit Team 6 finally hit the summit! Second time is a charm. We left camp around 8:45 this morning with perfect weather. As we got higher, Denali decided to challenge us again; this time with some wind. The wind was blowing very hard as we approached the summit ridge. We were all bundled up ready to get pummeled by wind on the ridge, but the ridge actually blocked the wind making the summit really nice! We stayed on top for quite some time before we headed back down into the wind for a safe descent back to 17,000 feet. Time to get some well-deserved sleep! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6

RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls from the Mount McKinley summit.

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Congratulations, Quinn, and the rest of the team!!! We’re so proud of you, what an amazing achievement! Have a happy and safe descent, you’re in our thoughts!

Posted by: Lauren & Adam on 6/30/2013 at 8:45 pm

Awesome job by everyone. Quinn, we knew you would summit no matter what it took. Have a safe 2nd half and look foreword to seeing you home soon. Love from Mom & Dad.

Posted by: George on 6/30/2013 at 12:34 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Getting Started

June 29, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 8,000'

Friday, June 28th, 2013 As planned, we fired up the stoves shortly after our 1 AM wake up. The plan in getting up so early, was to be moving during the coldest part of the day when we could hope that the glacial surface would be frozen solid. That would make sled hauling and walking in general a lot easier than pulling through slush, but more importantly, a freeze would make things safer, bridging the crevasses we'd need to cross. It was apparent this morning, as we ate breakfast and took down tents, that we weren't going to get a hard freeze. Temperatures hadn't dipped low enough, and there was cloud overhead that seemed to act as a warm, damp blanket, insulating the glacier and messing with our plans. But things had firmed up a little anyway, and by 4:15 AM when we hit the trail, snowshoes were doing the job in preventing "post-holing". Rigging up properly for such travel is far more complicated when sleds are in the mix, so the fact that it took some time to get organized was not unexpected. That extra time paid off when we were able to move good and steady without any gear glitches or malfunctions. The first hour took us down about 500 feet in elevation to the main Kahiltna Glacier where we turned North. We began to meet a few rope teams on their way out and it was great to meet an old friend or two in passing and to hear of their adventures on the mountain. Our second and third hour-long pulls took us past Mount Francis (hiding in cloud) and the junction with the East Fork of the Kahiltna. By the fourth and fifth sections of the climb we passed the Kahiltna Peaks and made it to the NE Fork junction... about where we wanted to be at the base of Ski Hill. By this point we were thankful to have cloud cover giving us relief from the sun as we built camp and crawled into tents for an afternoon snooze. After a quiet and easy afternoon in the tents, we met for dinner in the deluxe POSH dining complex dug by Zeb, Erik and Mike King. We turned in early once again anticipating another early start tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day at 14K

June 28, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, June 28th, 2013 We had a great rest day here at 14k! We spent most of the day in the clouds, but it was warm and calm. We took the opportunity to prepare for the fixed lines and running belays that we will encounter on the West Buttress, and to fortify the snow walls surrounding our tents. All in all, a great day! Congrats to Mike Haugen's team for standing on top today! Tomorrow, we plan to make our first foray onto the West Buttress proper, to cache a load of food, fuel, and supplies at the base of Washburn's Thumb. Once that is done, all the pieces are in place and we'll be waiting for our summit window! We'll let you know how it goes. Best from everybody here, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and the team

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We are so stoked for you Gail! Good luck to you and your team! The Marggrafs are sending you lots of love.

Posted by: Melissa Marggraf on 6/29/2013 at 2:00 pm

Hola Guapo (Guillermo)
The family is here at the house today…everyone is checking out your progress and we are all excited for the summit!
We see that the other team has summited, and just seeing the photo of the summit and knowing that will be you in a few days, was SO exciting!
I hope you aren’t having swelling, and that your toes and nose are hanging in there! drink lots of water!
Everyone is sending their love and support!
Guapa, Maya, Dana, Aleeta, Troy, Holly, Mom, Pammy, Theo and Adam

Posted by: marion and maya on 6/29/2013 at 12:21 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 28th Update

June 28, 2013

Posted by: Brent Okita, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,700'

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guide Brent Okita & Kel Rossiter were forced to turn this morning due to avalanche danger. The teams reached 12,700’ on Mt. Rainier before turning around. Brent radioed in at 6:44 am as the teams were taking a rest break at the top of Disappointment Cleaver in white out conditions. They will continue to Camp Muir to repack and rest before continuing their descent to Paradise later this morning.

Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Resting and Hoping

June 28, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Thursday, June 27th, 2013 After our almost summit yesterday, we took today to rest up for another hopeful shot tomorrow. RMI Summit Team 6 is really a great group of folks. We got sooooo close to the summit yesterday and got shut down by terrible weather. We did not hear any complaining or what ifs... instead we heard about what an adventure the day was and started to plan for another attempt. Keep your fingers crossed, say a prayer, or do some kind of a weather dance to help us get some good weather and another chance to summit tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Summit Team 6

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You’ve got this! No matter what happens (and I m dancing like crazy here), this is an incredible adventure. We are so impressed back here in the flatlands. Stay warm. Thinking of you all, all the time. KAC.

Posted by: Kconstantine on 6/28/2013 at 9:08 pm

Weather dance has happened! Climb on crew. . . .knock the beast off!!!!

Posted by: Mtn Mo on 6/28/2013 at 9:07 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Cache Gear at Washburn’s Thumb

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team To Thicker Air

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Slightly Elevated at 9,600’

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 30th Update - Summit!

Mt. Rainier: June 29, 2013 Update

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Summit!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Getting Started

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day at 14K

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 28th Update

Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Resting and Hoping

On The Map

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