Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Well, well, well! Here we are!
High Camp at 19,600 feet. And let me tell ya, it is great to be here in the thin air. It's like I tell my climbers, "The higher we go, the better we feel!" And even though it goes against physiology at altitude, I believe the mental mantra is working. Everyone is feeling great!
Tomorrow is summit day. We have a great forecast and we are keeping our fingers crossed. Most likely we will have light winds and some clouds building late afternoon. It is looking like a beautiful day. With that said, I have a challenge for you RMI blog enthusiasts, and make sure you share this challenge with as many folks you know.
On this blog post click on the comment button and place your guess. What time (Argentina Time: ART) will our team summit
Aconcagua tomorrow December 17th? Our team will be leaving high camp around 5 AM (ART).
Whoever gets the closest time will win an RMI t-shirt and baseball cap. Please include your email address along with your answer.
Again put your guess in the comment section of this blog posting only.
Wish us luck!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
The time spent relaxing at Chilcabamba was wonderful but like all good things came to an end. Fortunately for us, there will be more excitement to come as our adventure continues. We are about to make our move up to the Jose Ribas Refugio on
Cotopaxi (over 16,000') where we hope to get a little nap in before launching for the summit very early tomorrow morning. The weather pattern has been promising and with a little luck we will all be taking hero pics and exchanging high fives on the summit! But we're not counting our chickens before the eggs hatch,
Cotopaxi is a big mountain and deserves respect. Wish us luck!
More on the alpine escapades of this intrepid group as our program continues... Stay with us!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
6:21 a.m. from the summit of Ixtaccihuatl:
Hey this is Seth calling from the top of
Ixta. I am up here with everybody. There is very little wind and it was a smooth climb. The team is taking a bunch of photos and enjoying the views. You can see all of the volcanoes today: Nevado de Toluca,
Pico de Orizaba, La Malinche, Sierra Negra…and Popo is also out. It is a beautiful cloudless day with no wind. [lots of background cheering from the team] We will check in again from high camp later today.
Congratulations Team!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
Whew! After several strenuous days, the team has been relaxing at Chilcabama, a traditional Ecuadorian farmhouse. The surrounding countryside is beautiful, with a knockout view of
Cotopaxi. Our day has been spent on exploratory walks, extensive eating, pestering the resident llama, and gazing at Cotopaxi through the hotel's spyglass. Tomorrow we head up to the Cotopaxi hut for our next summit bid. Wish us luck!
RMI Guides
Billy Nugent,
Katie Bono & Team
Yesterday we drove five hours south of Quito to
Ecuador's highest mountain, Chimborazo. News from other local guides provided mixed information. We heard there was a bit of new snow on the route which contrary to popular belief actually makes the route safer. What we found was nothing of the sort. For many years the north side of
Chimborazo has been melting making rockfall an increasing concern. Having a bad gut feeling I could not ignore, I spoke with the other guides and we decided climbing up with ten other climbers ahead of us was too risky on a route with substantial rock fall hazard. During the night two team members began having diarrhea and a guide threw up. I took this as a sign and began to reevaluate the situation. Over breakfast the guides laid out an alternative mountain that we felt would have a much better chance of success given the teams health and über challenging route on
Chimborazo. A discussion was held and a difficult but good decision was made to abandon Chimborazo and go to Illiniza Sur. This will be a more technically challenging but safer and shorter climb. We are all a bit bummed to not be giving our main objective a shot but also psyched we are all still together. We leave the hostel tonight at eleven and will send word of the climb tomorrow. Stay tuned.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Hello from high camp on
Ixta! Everyone did great today, the tents are up and I'm about to start cooking dinner.
This morning we got up at 6:30 and had bacon and eggs for breakfast. After packing our gear we got a ride from our driver to La Joya, which is where the trail starts. It took us five hours to reach high camp with the big packs but we have plenty of time to relax before we go to the summit.
Hopefully the next time I check in we'll be standing on top of
Ixta!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
We woke on our rest say today to another beautiful morning on the
Stone Sentinel, feeling good at our Camp 2 altitude of 18,200'. Although clouds have slowly built and a light snow is falling, team morale is high and the collective attitude is positive and charged with anticipation of the move to come. Everyone continues to climb well, and we're all taking care to eat and drink enough for the hard days ahead.
Rest days give time to think, and something that always comes to mind is the total experience of mountain climbing. A big part of that experience is being present in the moment, finding the rhythm of walking and breathing, seeing the splendor of nature all around and being able to appreciate it without the distractions that are all too present in most of the world. The team is definitely embracing the moment, soaking up the beauty and enjoying the journey through this high and wild place. While occasional thoughts may jump forward and higher to the
summit of South America, we are perfectly content to enjoy a cup of coffee and the company of friends new and old on this well-earned rest day.
Keep us in your thoughts as we push higher and higher the next few days. The weather looks promising, the team is strong, and we look forward to the challenge ahead!
RMI Guides JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens, Garrett Stevens and the
Aconcagua team
On The Map
We're on
Ixta! Well we're actually at the Altzimoni Hut but we did get up to 14,600' on Ixta today. That means we set new altitude records for the whole team. That's always cool.
The day started with an 8 am pick up from La Malinche. Our fantastic driver, Rogelio, took us to the best breakfast in Mexico at the Hotel Mission Tlaxcala. Very nice.
Then we hit the market in the town of Amecameca for some last minute food and water before driving to the
Altzimoni Hut. After dropping our gear we set out for a hike. We took the same route that we will follow tomorrow and I dropped some water at our high point. We'll pick that up on the way through on our way to high camp and I'll check in again from there.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
Our preparations for high altitude complete, the team awoke a few minutes after midnight on Monday morning for our summit bid on
Cayambe. The sky was cloudy, but calm- a hopeful sign given the hail and rain the afternoon prior. The first hour of climbing found us negotiating a long rocky stretch in big mountain boots. We transitioned to snowy slopes and the group moved steadily uphill in high spirits as the clouds gave way to a clear and starry night. At a break at ~17k, we caught the sunrise, as well as a glimpse of three climbers high up on the mountain. Several of us were amazed at the steepness of the slope they were ascending, only to discover shortly thereafter that that would be our route, as well! However, our group was more than up to the task, and everyone summitted after 7.5 hours en route. The weather on top was flawless(!), so we lounged around and took hero shots for an hour before heading down. The steep section was just as exciting on the descent, but the remainder of the route was easily accomplished by our crew.
After arriving at the refugio, we quickly packed up our gear and hightailed it down the mountain to get to some food! Unfortunately, hightailing it only works so well when you have 36k of rough road and 6000' to descend! After eating, everyone was looking forward to seeing our lodging at Chilcabama. However, the travel gods felt differently, and the expected transit time stretched out longer and longer, as first rain (on our duffels on top of the van), then traffic, the construction, and finally dark, unmarked roads had their way with us. Finally, we arrived to Chilcabama, where hot showers, freshly-made soup, and fires in our in-room fireplaces awaited us. It was the perfect end to a very long day.
Pictures to come pending wifi access!
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Katie Bono and Team
On The Map
Hello everyone.
The team has traveled south and we have arrived at our last climbing objective,
Chimborazo. It took us about five hours to drive here from Quito. This is the biggest mountain here in
Ecuador and it stands proud at 20,700'.
We have currently just downed our dinner and are getting ready for bed. Everyone is doing well and ready to climb so we can return home to our loved ones. I'm keeping it short as we will be getting up early for this one.
We'll update tomorrow.
RMI Guides
Casey Grom,
Adam Knoff and crew
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Congratulations on your summit, Mike. It’s been fun following you on the RMI blog! Love, Uncle Eddie
Posted by: Ed Schroeder on 1/17/2013 at 12:36 pm
11:17am. Weather looks great, go team go! Be safe.
Posted by: James Salter on 1/17/2013 at 10:55 am
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