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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Rest and Prepare for Chimborazo

It is crazy to think our team has been together for over ten days now. We have accomplished much, seen a lot, bonded well and now seem more like family than strangers gathering in a hotel lobby meeting for the first time. This is the only time I can remember, on any trip, that all nine climbers arrived as individuals. There are no couples, no family groups, just adventurous souls coming to Ecuador to climb mountains and learn some skills. Until now I think things have gone quite well. Good climbing and good culture has defined the past ten days. Now the plot thickens. Today we arrived at Chimborazo. This mountain is the highest point from the center of the earth and an overall giant of sheer prominence. Today though was great. After enjoying the latest wake up call of the journey, a nice late breakfast, a casual four hour bus ride and a home cooked meal in Chimborazo's Refugio, this was as close to an honest rest day as we've had since leaving Quito. Which, after climbing two big mountains in the last four days is a good thing! This mountain is known for its challenging climbing, cold conditions and steep slopes. It will take every bit of energy to reach its 20,564 summit. Currently the team is feeling mostly recovered from Cotopaxi and is excited to move to high camp tomorrow located at 16,400 feet high on Chimborazo's western flanks. We will let you know how the move goes tomorrow. Sending hugs to all those following along. Wish us luck. RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Whoa, Hugs received. Thank you!

It’s now 3pm in California on Jan 10.  I expect you are all currently resting in preparation for the early start for summit day tomorrow.  That being said I don’t anticipate this message will reach you before you return from the summit but I’m super hyped for the team and the challenge you are taking on.  My thoughts are with you for an amazing day of climbing. 

Ha ha, I not a poet, but…......I’ve written a short poem for the team describing how I envision Chimborazo summit day.  Enjoy!
———————-   
The Summit
————————
Heart pounding, Lungs starving, Step. Repeat.
Beauty unimagined -
Celebrate


Looking forward to the summit update and your safe return.
With love and hugs
Jacquie

Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on 1/10/2018 at 3:12 pm


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Trek in the Rain

Hey, Everybody! Casey Grom checking in again here on day 3 Kilimanjaro. Well, today was very similar to yesterday we started off and mostly clear skies we got about two 2 1/2 hours up the trail before the rains came back in. Luckily today's rains were bit shorter than yesterday's. We we're able to get all of our Gore-Tex on and umbrellas out and expedite our selves here to camp, which was pretty necessary considering all our stuff was already a little bit damp. Things are going pretty well. I'm sitting in my tent right now, I'm not sure if you can hear the rain coming down? It's still raining hard. Our crew has been fantastic, the porters that is. They have been able to get on the trail ahead of us, and get to our camp by the time we get there, and we've been able to have everything already set up and ready for us to dive into and get out of the rain! So a little bit like yesterday and we are hoping tomorrow will be dry. They are taking great care of it here, and we're all doing well. We're just a little tired of the rain right now, but we're going to take a little break, we're going to have some soup to warm ourselves up. It sounds like we're going to have a little cribbage tournament here in a little bit. That's all for now. RMI Guide Casey Grom & Team


Casey Grom Calling in from Shira Plateau on Kilimanjaro

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Wow! We looked at the blog for day 4!  It does look like you will be at the top of the world.  All is going Aok & no one is sick.  We are having exceptional warm weather in the valley. Sumit or Bust! Ken, Kathy & Ayla.

Posted by: Ken and Kathy on 1/13/2018 at 6:27 am


Aconcagua: King & Team Move to Camp 2 in Warm Weather

Our rest day ended with three inches of snow falling on camp with little to no wind and some spectacular heat lightning across the Vacas Valley. It's like one of those quiet winter nights where you wake to a yard filled with snow. We got underway by 9 am and moved camp to 18,000'. With all the new snow and still air we were roasting by the time we reached Amegino Col. The weather this trip has been atypical in that we have had three nights of snow, light to no wind and abnormally warm temperatures. The Team is currently in their tents riding out another snow fall and will hopefully have a good night's rest at the new altitude. Tomorrow we will carry food and fuel to high camp to continue our acclimatization. The Team has appreciated the blog comments, and send their love to family and friends back home. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job to all of you! I’m glad you’re making progress. We’re rooting you on from home. Dad (Craig), we miss you and can’t wait to hear all about your adventure!

Posted by: Samantha on 1/10/2018 at 8:07 am

Well done team! Enjoy following along on this adventure of yours and seeing all the pictures.  I hope you continue to have good weather!  Love and hugs to Nick from his Mom.

Posted by: Coeli Scott on 1/10/2018 at 7:15 am


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Summit Cotopaxi

I glanced down at my watch, 11:44 PM. One minute before my alarm was to go off. I silenced it and slipped out of my bunk and flipped the light switch. It was time for our Cotopaxi (19,347') summit day. The team quickly got out of their sleeping bags, one of the most challenging tasks of the day, and began efficiently putting together their summit kits. After topping off water bottles and wolfing down some oatmeal and cinnamon buns we moved outside to gear-up and were greeted with light snow fall. The winds were calm and the cloud cover made for pleasant climbing temps so we set off in high spirits hoping the snow would pass for a clear sunrise on the summit. One hour in and we stopped for our first break just shy of 17,000' at the toe of the glacier to rope-up. The team arrived together in good style showcasing their increased acclimatization from Cayambe and immediately putting to use the skills learned in the previous day's training. The current route is very direct but that also means gaining a lot of elevation very quickly. The next section had almost no switchbacks and was characterized by a series of steep 40+ degree pitches with very brief benches in between. The team methodically tackled these pitches where flawless technique was required not to slip-out in the steep loose snow draining valuable and limited stores of energy. The team arrived at the final break before the summit looking tired but determined. Cotopaxi would not give up the goods too easily. The last stretch to the summit was guarded by some of the steepest sections of the climb. After forcing down some calories the snow stopped and the stars popped out shedding faint light on the summit 1,000' above us. Restored by the calories and motivated by the opportunity for a clear summit the team set out on the final push. An hour and a half later the entire team crested the crater rim and was greeted with an alpine sunrise for the record books. A massive steam plume from the crater was bathed in pink alpenglow and the mountain shadow of Cotopaxi stretched into the western horizon. All smiles, the team embraced and congratulated each other. This summit was accomplished as much through individual grit as was through an extraordinary display of exemplary expedition behavior. When the going got tough the team propped-up and encouraged each other, just as determined to get their rope team member to the the top as themselves. After basking in the equatorial morning glory for about 45 minutes the team descended back to the hut with no wind and clear sunny skies. After one final meal at the Refugio we boarded the bus and went to have lunch and celebrate at a local pizzeria. We just arrived at the gorgeous Hacienda La Cienega and are settling in for some well deserved afternoon naps. Tomorrow will take us to the base of Chimborazo and the start of the tallest objective of the trip. Stay Tuned! RMI Guide Jordan Cargill
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Again! Congrats and best wishes for the whole team!!!! Beautiful pics!

Posted by: Karen Norris on 1/8/2018 at 6:53 pm

Wow, awesome acheivement team.  Love the summit photo. Congratulations to all! 
Keep smiling :)

Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on 1/8/2018 at 6:25 pm


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Meet in Tanzania

Hello Everyone. This is Casey Grom checking in on RMI's 2018 Kilimanjaro Climb. All is well here in Tanzania as most of the team arrived late last night after some very long flights. It was a short and uneventful ride to our Lodge that is tucked in between Arusha and Moshi and not so far from the base of Kilimanjaro. The team had a quick but wonderful dinner and headed for bed as the time change has us all feeling just a little off. We had a leisurely morning and had our first official meeting at 10:00 where we did a round of introductions and then discussed the program for the coming days ahead. We spent the remainder of the day getting our gear packed up, exploring the grounds of our Lodge, which is incredibly peaceful and has monkeys and Dik Dik running around. We wrapped up the evening with another delicious meal and plenty of friendly conversations. RMI Guide Casey Grom
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

All is Aok @ the retirement day care academy

Posted by: Ken and Kathy Masck on 1/14/2018 at 6:43 pm

All is Aok @ the retirement day care academy

Posted by: Ken and Kathy Masck on 1/14/2018 at 6:43 pm


Aconcagua: King & Team Enjoy Snow and Rest at Camp 1

A thunderstorm skirted us late last night as we fell asleep to the occasional flash of lightning and clap of thunder. Luckily, it was short lived and we dozed off listening to the tapping of heavy, wet snow hitting the tent late into the night. As the sun hit camp this morning, we crawled out excited to see all of Camp 1 and the slopes above us coated in a couple inches of fresh snow - quite the refreshing contrast to the myriad of browns, tans and grays up to this point. The team enjoyed a long, leisurely breakfast and hot drinks to start off the rest day with some quesadillas to follow for lunch. Sometimes rest days can be just as tough, testing one's patience a bit, but everyone is doing a great job taking advantage of today to continue getting stronger for our next big push to Camp 2. We'll be keeping our eye on the weather which looks to have more snow in store for us, but in the meantime we're taking full advantage of some really beautiful, calm days here at Camp 1. Hopefully the next time you hear from us we'll be settled in at Camp 2 with a hot drink in hand, feeling accomplished, but still aware of the effort that lies before us high up on the Stone Sentinel. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello boss, we are following along back here! Hope the progress keeps moving upward and that the hands are staying warm!!
- Team CRS

Posted by: Team CRS on 1/10/2018 at 4:30 pm

My 1st born son Virgil - hope you are feeling good and having fun.  Your bro and l would not have liked the thunder and lightening - the snow he could handle.  We think of you everyday - maybe more like every minute of everyday for me.  Miss you.  Love Mom❤️

Posted by: Barbara(mom) on 1/9/2018 at 9:53 am


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Train on Cotopaxi

It was a beautiful morning on the northern flanks of Ecuador's "jewel mountain" when we awoke from our fist night at Cotopaxi's Refugio. This newly remodeled hut sits just under 16,000 feet and offers a full service kitchen along with indoor and outdoor toilets. This isn't exactly roughing it but no matter how swanky the accommodations, waking up at this altitude always feels like a self inflicted hangover without the fun stories from the evening before. After coffee, a traditional Ecuadorean breakfast and a few Ibuprofen, we were ready for a fun day of training. Just as we began packing for the day, a group of Germans arrived looking haggered and shell shocked after having come down from the summit. It was their first ever mountain climb and they said the route was beautiful, steep and challenging but well worth the effort. This provided promising news and gave us good optimism for tonight's climb. Once out the door, a steep 45 minute climb took us to a perfect training location on the glacier where we set up a top rope for ice climbing, a fixed line and fun crevasse rescue station. The weather remained nice so our attitudes stayed really positive as we all took turns doing each activity. From above we were amazed at the hundreds of people coming and going from the hut below. The remodel has sparked new interest from locals in visiting one the this countries coolest tourist attractions. Now it is five o clock and we are resting and preparing for the climb to come. The route is shorter than Cayambe so we have high hopes for all of us making the top. We will report tomorrow after the ascent. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Adam and Jordan, thanks for the informative updates and photos.  Team, congrats on a good day of training.  Very pleased to hear the weather treated you well and that you are all in good spirits despite the virtual hangovers.  As I write this I expect you are already geared up and headed out to summit Cotopaxi.  You are all in my thoughts and I wish you a safe and awesome climb.  I eagerly await news and photos of your adventure on the “Jewel”.  Go team!  Stay strong, stay safe!!
Jacquie

Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on 1/8/2018 at 1:18 am


Aconcagua: King & Team Make a Carry to Camp 2

The general consensus was that last night -20 degree sleeping bags were more then warm, they were down right hot at times. In a three-person tent filled with enough goose down, it can look like one of those ball pits at a McDonalds... Good luck finding anything your looking for. We woke with the sun hitting our tents and not even a hint of wind the entire night. The first night at a new altitude can make good sleep difficult and the Team was feeling the effects of this and the move up from Aconcagua Base Camp. Our task today was to move food, fuel and some summit gear up to Camp 2, located at 18,000'. The trail takes us up to Amegenio Col (saddle) with spectacular views of the Central Andes. Glaciated peaks like El Mano and Mercedario dominate the skyline. The group did well with the carry and even better showcasing their downhill skills. Rest, water, food and some cards is all that remains of the day. We'll take a rest day tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike King
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Rogan, thinking of you, we are in Clarens till Sunday, no Wifi, fewer messages,sounds like everything in your favour of summits get. Holding thumbs for all of you,love mom

Posted by: Daphne Carew on 1/9/2018 at 4:17 am

Hi Rogan, thinking of you, we are in Clarens till Sunday, no Wifi, fewer messages,sounds like everything in your favour of summits get. Holding thumbs for all of you,love momx

Posted by: Daphne on 1/9/2018 at 4:15 am


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Move Into the Refugio

Greetings from the Cotopaxi Refugio just shy of 16,000'! The team awoke this morning extremely well rested at Hacienda Guachala. "Slept like the dead" and "I fell asleep with my book in my hand" were common conversation points during breakfast. After getting our fill of fresh fruit for the day we loaded Viktor's trusty Hyundai bus and began our journey towards Cotopaxi. We took a pit stop at the San Luis Mall to stretch our legs, grab some snacks, and get our last taste of the thick air at 9,000'. Another hour and a half on the bus brought us to the gates of Cotopaxi National Park. As always Viktor navigated the steep, rutted roads with ease and we soon found ourselves in the parking lot during the middle of an afternoon snow squall. As we quickly loaded our bags we enjoyed watching and listening to the joy of locals playing in the drifted snow of the parking lot. Snow rarely accumulates so low. A 45-minute walk up switchbacks brought us to the newly remodeled Refugio. After stowing our gear and pleasantly noting the fleece sheets and pillow cases that each bed was made with we went outside for a short walk to check the route and see if we could catch some views with the lifting clouds. We were not disappointed and were treated to beautiful views of Cayambe and Antisana bathed in evening light and the mountain shadow of Cotopaxi. Grinning from ear to ear the team returned to the Refugio for some R&R before dinner. Tomorrow will take us up to ~17,000' where we hope to get in some ice climbing and continue to sharpen our mountaineering skills. Thanks for tuning in! RMI Guide Jordan Cargill
Leave a Comment For the Team

Aconcagua: King & Team Move to Camp 1

The Team decided that they have had enough of the comforts of base camp...roasted lamb, showers, Internet and pit latrines and told the guides they trade it all in for pasta, dusty scree, interpersonal conversation and blue bags. With our lungs and legs feeling stronger after another rest day we cruised up to Camp 1 in under 5 hours and spent the remainder of the day setting up camp and enjoying the view. We can see the first hour and half towards Camp 2 and the red, brown and orange pastel colors of the Central Andes to the East. There is some apprehension in the group about what the coming days and weather will bring. So far everyone is acclimating well and excited to be finally heading up Aconcagua. Thanks for following along, we'll carry gear and supplies to Camp 2 tomorrow and check in with an update. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good on you, mate!!  Have a safe climb and show em how we do it in Texas.

Posted by: Lee on 1/26/2018 at 8:09 pm

So good to hear your voice, Dave.  Sorry to hear of the BP change you had.  So you are on your way again,  keep trucking!  Enjoyed the post to you all by Rachel Ford,  so fitting.

Posted by: Donna Bernier on 1/7/2018 at 10:21 am

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