Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Hold on at 14,000’ Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah McGowan, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

The "moving up" picture wasn't all that clear this morning at 5 AM. Nor was it at 6 or 7 or 8 or 9. There was plenty of cloud about and some signs of wind on the ridges where we wanted to be. By the time the weather had improved, it was our judgement that we'd be getting into high camp at a later hour than we'd prefer. We traded the physical difficulty of moving up for the mental difficulty of sitting tight for one more day at 14 K. One more day of rest, one more day of acclimatization, one more day of anticipation. We managed it just fine. Ultimately the clouds closed in on 14,000' Camp and took away our views. We had sporadic radio contact with Mike Haugen's RMI team as they felt their way up through higher clouds toward Denali's summit. Tomorrow is our day to move! Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Artesonraju: Elias & Team Reach Base Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 13,650'

Buenas tardes from Artesonraju Base Camp! We enjoyed a good rest day today. We fiddled with our gear, re-fitted crampons and practiced climbing anchor transitions. Good conversations were had at the dining tent too, all while enjoying the tea selection that our cook Emilio has brought, which we sweeten with the super natural honey from the bees of his next door neighbor. Rain has made a short appearance in the afternoon, but we look forward to start hiking up Paria North soon, our acclimatization peak, under sunny skies. That's it for now! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope you get some good weather, looks like an awesome time.

Posted by: Chris Jano on 7/2/2017 at 4:03 am

Keep killing it up there old man, love you!

Posted by: Nate Milbourn on 7/1/2017 at 11:43 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Practice Patience at 17,000’ Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

June 28, 2017 9:41 pm PST Today our team practiced arguably the most important skill in all of mountaineering: patience. After a blustery, snowy night up here at 17K, the mountain finally came out this morning, but the upper reaches were cloaked in spindrift, lenticular clouds, and all the hallmarks of high wind. So, we decided to opt for a rest day at high camp to wait for the weather to clear up. The signs are looking more promising for tomorrow, and we're all hoping Denali will give us a shot. Keep your fingers crossed for us for clear skies in the morning! Hugs from 17,000', RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Excited for you Glo Roe! Can’t wait to hear all about it!
Love you!
Aunt Linda

Posted by: Linda Mills on 6/29/2017 at 9:51 pm

From the ends of the earth I call to you, I call as my heart grows faint; lead me to the rock that is higher than I.

Posted by: charles valentine on 6/29/2017 at 6:31 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah McGowan, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 28, 2017 We waited until the sun came around today to get out of the tents. That made breakfast a little more like brunch, but everybody was happy to wait for Avery's legendary blueberry pancakes. Weather high on Denali was unsettled, making us a little concerned for our friends at 17,000 who'd hoped to summit today, By midday things stabilized a little and we had a relaxing afternoon in mostly sunny and calm conditions. Hannah McGowan led a well attended high altitude yoga session for the restless. The rest of us rested and read. We're hoping for climbing weather tomorrow. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

June 29, 2017

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Paul Rachele

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Paul Rachele lead their teams of ALA Climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Win reported light winds, mild temperatures and an overall beautiful day. The teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly before 7 am. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. We look forward to celebrating with them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

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Congratulations Pat Doring and team! What a tremendous accomplishment!

Posted by: Maureen and Greg Beaton on 6/30/2017 at 6:53 am

Way to go Pat Doring. Congratulations to you and the whole team.

Posted by: Marybeth Casey on 6/30/2017 at 3:54 am

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Artesonraju: Elias & Team Arrive At Base Camp

June 28, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 13,650'

Good evening from Taullipampa, the meadows where our Base Camp sits. We had a beautiful hike up Punta Union Pass, 4,700m, and then down to Artesonraju Base Camp at 4,000m. The journey, while long, will sure help with acclimatizing. Upon arrival, we enjoyed another incredible meal from our cook and had time to relax, listen to some music at the dining tent and share some stories of High School prom. We are looking forward to a full day at BC tomorrow before the action starts. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

Cayambe Express: Walter & Team Practice Some Skills in Preparation for Summit Bid Tonight

June 28, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,092'

We woke to light snow and strong winds, but after a leisurely breakfast and a few hours of relaxing it cleared up. We took advantage of the clearing and hiked to the glacier to practice climbing with ice ax and crampons. Now, back at the hut, we'll rest after lunch in preparation for our summit bid tonight. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Reaches the Summit!

June 28, 2017

Posted by: Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team, led by Zeb Blais, radioed from Columbia Crest on the summit of Mt. Rainier. They are starting their descent and will stay at Camp Schurman tonight. Tomorrow morning the team will pack up and head back to the White River Campground. We look forward to congratulating them back at Rainier Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Excellent work ! I cant wait to hear all about it and see the photo’s. Awesome job guys!
T342, p.s. Did the ponytail get cut ?

Posted by: Ed Schiavi on 6/29/2017 at 11:13 am

Great job guys! Stay safe and enjoy the remainder of the trip.

Jeannine & Matthew

Posted by: Jeannine Deckers on 6/28/2017 at 10:23 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs On Summit!

June 28, 2017

Posted by: Kel Rossiter, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams for June 25 - 28, 2017 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just after 7 am. RMI Guides Kel Rossiter and Robby Young reported winds higher than expected but clear skies and an excellent route. The teams spent almost an hour enjoying the views from the summit crater. They will return to Camp Muir for a short break and then continue to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What a feat!!!
So amazed at your fortitude and strength.
Congrats to Larry and Zack on your valiant efforts. So very proud of you.
Can’t wait to hear about your experience.
Safe journey home.
Lots of love, Shelley, Saul and the gang

Posted by: Shelley on 6/29/2017 at 5:08 am

Congratulations Emma Le Du! well done!

Posted by: Margarita Medina on 6/28/2017 at 8:08 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend Fixed Lines to Cache Supplies

June 28, 2017

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah McGowan, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

June 27, 2017 Things looked good at 6 AM today, so we rolled out, fired the stoves, rousted the team, breakfasted and got walking. All of this was in the cold shadow before the sun came around. Our pals on Mike Haugen's team were two hours ahead of us, already starting the fixed ropes at 15,000 as we left 14K. We made steady progress up the initial hills with perfectly packed snow to walk on. The sun caught us as we neared the ropes ourselves, making it a little easier to keep hands and faces warm. We launched up the steep headwall, getting into the rhythms of mechanical ascenders on rope, and moving crampons and ice axes on firm snow and ice. We hit the 16,200 ft top to the lines and continued up the spectacular West Buttress to 16,400 ft. Only Denali, Foraker and Mount Hunter were above the Alaskan sea of clouds today. We cached supplies and enjoyed the views from our lofty perch. Interestingly, this height wasn't a new record for any of our well traveled climbers. Our descent to 14,000 was relatively easy and fun with light packs. We hope our friends at 17,000 have a nice night and a good summit tomorrow while we rest. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Dave,
thank you for your wonderful reports about your journey with all Details so that I can imagine the amazing nature you are hiking through.
The circumstances seem to be excellent and I wish all of you, specially my dear climber Hans a successful climb up to the summit.
I keep my fingers cross for you!!!! Ute

Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/29/2017 at 5:45 am

Hey Matt, keep up the great work. What an incredible journey!

Posted by: Eric Taylor on 6/28/2017 at 6:46 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Hold on at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Artesonraju: Elias & Team Reach Base Camp

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Practice Patience at 17,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

Artesonraju: Elias & Team Arrive At Base Camp

Cayambe Express: Walter & Team Practice Some Skills in Preparation for Summit Bid Tonight

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Reaches the Summit!

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs On Summit!

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend Fixed Lines to Cache Supplies

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