Entries from Locations

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

May 31, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

May 30, 2017 The weather yesterday evening was a pleasant break in snow showers, but only for a few hours! We had heavy snow over night that wound up only stalling our progress for the time it takes to whip out 100 silver dollar pancakes with blueberries. The morning snow dissipated just as we stuffed the last few items in our packs. We began our climb today in a brisk wind which we welcomed with the hard work of trail breaking. The team did an amazing job getting to our previous high point, where we loaded our personal food and equipment in our sleds. We have "Friends in High Places". Big thanks to our other RMI team lead by Brent, Christina, and JT. They helped us by bringing some of our group food and fuel from our cache yesterday during our storm rest day at 7,800 camp. With the climbing done for the the day, we entered the second half of the work day building camp and a mighty fine job our crew has done. We finished our day with loaded quesadillas and relaxing in the cook house. We are happy to have full bellies and the kit all here ready to rest and acclimatize at camp tomorrow. With weather on our side the team will deliver groceries to 14 Camp on Thursday! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Enjoy the Views

May 31, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000

May 30, 2017 We woke up to an unexpected foot of fresh snow this morning and unable to see the Buttress above us, let alone many of our camp neighbors. Our initial plans to head uphill became questionable at best, but we crawled out of our warm tents for some breakfast burritos and hoped for a change in the weather. The skies eventually cleared and the sun began to warm the basin, but the winds persisted up high long enough to set our sights on tomorrow. Anxious to stretch our legs, we took advantage of the warm afternoon with a short walk to the "Edge of the World" for some spectacular views of the Alaska Range. The sun brightened spirits and kept folks lingering outside their tents all afternoon to soak it up before dinner. It was a much needed lift to prepare us for our uphill push tomorrow to 17 camp and on to the highest point in North America. RMI Guides Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway, Pete Van Deventer and team

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Excited for Better Weather and Getting Ready to Move

May 31, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

May 30, 2017 Finally we get a break. After nine days of squirrelly, cold, snowy weather the sun broke out just prior to noon. There was an inkling of better weather coming earlier, but nothing definitive. And when it broke, camp went nuts with folks either moving or carrying loads. We opted to stay put, not liking the idea of fighting all that traffic going up Motorcycle Hill and coming into camp at 14,200' late, needing to build camp as the shadows overtake camp and the temperature drops 30 degrees. A couple of folks are fighting small colds, and this warm, easy day is just what the doctor ordered. When we saw rope teams waiting for 30-40 minutes to just leave camp because of the traffic, we felt pretty good about the decision. We certainly enjoyed the day as it became spectacularly sunny and clear. This is the Denali I love and dream of coming back to every year. With the weather folks are streaming into camp and it's as big as I've seen it. But, with just a little luck, we'll be out of here early and moving into a 14,200' camp that has been vacated by the crowds of climbers amassed there waiting for their opportunity to move to 17,200' camp for a bid for the summit. Everyone's dispositions have brightened with the sunshine, which is amazing considering the good cheer among the team even in the poor weather. We'll be talking to you from 14,200' soon! RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Alex and Tom!! We are rooting for you today getting to 14,000!!! We all wish you well and stay strong from Colorado!!

Posted by: nicole celona-jacobs on 6/1/2017 at 10:14 am

Alex and Tom,
I am so excited for you both, it sounds like your are doing great. Keep up the hard work and perseverance! Warm thoughts!

Posted by: Cindy K on 6/1/2017 at 10:13 am

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Enjoy Sunrise Rather than Summit

May 30, 2017

Posted by: Eric Frank, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 17,000'

May 30, 2017 Our unseasonal snowfall over the past two days set the team up for a wary summit bid in the wee hours of the morning. Leaving High Camp at 17,000 we found ourselves in boot high fresh snow. Yet, after two hours of uphill, we quickly came upon wind deposits well over a meter deep and made the tough but safe call to walk back to our refugio amongst the clouds. However, our morning wasn't quite over, for as we peeked back down through the cloud ceiling we were just in time to watch the entirety of an absolutely spectacular sunrise. The sun rose behind Huayna's sister to the east and lit three levels of clouds in hues of pink and gold. One rope team simply stopped in the middle of the boot pack and watched for 45 minutes as the valley below us slowly filled with light. Right as the sun finally crested the peak to our east, the valley clouds rose up around camp and engulfed us in a glowing mist. Despite not getting the chance to climb higher, I'm afraid we would have missed the sunrise being stuck in the high clouds and honestly it was all any of us could have asked for. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like a fabulous experience despite the disappointment of not summiting! As an aside, a predator fan was arrested at the game in Pittsburgh for throwing a weapon in the ice - a catfish!

Posted by: Jane on 5/31/2017 at 2:43 pm

Incredible! Can’t wait to see photos!!

Posted by: Ally on 5/31/2017 at 8:26 am

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Check in from Huayna Potosi

May 30, 2017

Posted by: Eric Frank, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 15,485'

May 29, 2017 Hello, this is Eric Frank calling from the Casa De Guilles here on Huayna Potosi in Bolivia. The last couple days have been pretty interesting, yesterday a fair amount of snow fell on Huayna Potosi and we weren't really sure what we would find this morning. When we woke up the weather was good and we were able to climb up to the high Refugio in fairly comfortable conditions. Once again things changed, and it started dumping a bunch of snow so we spent most of the afternoon watching the flakes fall and clearing off the roof of our little shelter. We are just getting tucked into bed now, hopefully things will turn around in the morning. There's a fair amount of snow on route so wish us luck, we're going to make conservative decisions and see how far we can go. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Eric Frank

RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in from High Camp on Huayna Potosi, Bolivia

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Mattie-
We think about you all day long, hope that the weather is in your favor, and that RMI and the guides do their thing and help you all to achieve your goal…a summit!!! Hang in there, sweetheart! We look forward to hearing all about your experiences through the blogs. Love you!
Mama, Jesse, Bud, Taira and Adryan

Posted by: Bird on 5/30/2017 at 5:20 pm

Justin,
Hope things are going well for you and the team. Just found the blog and will follow the rest of your trip. Enjoy the view. Dad

Posted by: David Probst on 5/30/2017 at 11:40 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Hope For Break in Weather

May 30, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Lucas Haaland

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

May 29, 2017 Greetings all - this is Robbie Young and Mike Walter with the RMI Denali Team. Today was another day of waiting out some weather here at 14,000' Camp. We had snow and some winds this morning and it's just now starting to improve this afternoon. We're on Day 25 and we are looking forward to hopefully a break in this weather over the next few days to give us an opportunity to summit or at least make an attempt if the weather holds out. If not, we're probably looking at coming down at the same time in the next few days here. Looking forward to our opportunity and look forward to checking in again tomorrow, hopefully in 17000' Camp. Thanks. Ciao. RMI Guide Robbie Young

RMI Guide Robby Young checks in from 14,000ft Camp on Denali.

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Mark - I have been following your expedition on the blog, and thinking of you and the others up on the mountain. Those are remarkable photographs and incredible descriptions of the severe weather conditions. You and the team are pretty damn impressive. I sure hope the weather finally cooperates, but whatever happens you have accomplished something mighty. I will look forward to seeing you upon your return. —Geordie Vining (from Crossfit)

Posted by: Geordie Vining on 5/31/2017 at 5:28 am

Hey Mark, Kev sends me to the blog about every other day to check on your summit progress…for some reason he can manage an RX Murph (we missed you!) but can’t navigate the blog ;) Hoping the weather cooperates for y’all. Catch you on the flip side, H + K

Posted by: heidi + kevin murphy on 5/30/2017 at 8:20 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting for Break

May 29, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

May 29, 2017 There isn't a whole lot new to report today. The winds started to dissipate late last night into this morning. There were still some gusty bursts that swirled snow into the air, enveloping those unlucky enough to be caught out in them. But as the morning progressed, the air calmed down, and the sun started to break though. Our brief respite of sunshine was short lived, as a 20,000' wall of cloud crept slowly towards us, finally enveloping us and triggering peaceful snowfall. It has snowed lightly for much of the day, but the wind seems to have relented for now, and the forecast seems to show our window appearing in the next couple of days. We'll be excited when it does! RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Made it down to base camp Tuesday morning at about 12:05 AM. You may have heard we endured some unexpected weather on the way down. But it looks like everything is starting to change. Sunny skies at Base this morning after almost 2-weeks of less than optimal conditions. Beautiful flight out. I’m rooting for you all!!!. Stay strong and get this done!!!

Joel

Posted by: Joel on 5/30/2017 at 10:43 pm

Thinking of everyone, especially our nephew, Peter Bilodeau. Prayers for safety & success!
With love,
Aunt Ann & Uncle Dave

Posted by: Ann Douglas on 5/30/2017 at 1:22 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Take a Weather Day at 7,800’

May 29, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

May 29, 2017 We woke up this morning to snow showers, moderate winds, and low visibility. Rather than do battle in a storm trying to move to 11,000 ft, we stayed in camp at 7,800 ft and enjoyed our first rest day. After yesterday's successful carry, the team has earned some recovery. We started the day with salmon, bagels, cream cheese, and some lively tunes. It seems like one of the team members has sealed his fate as the resident dj for the remainder of our trip. We followed breakfast with some lounging, napping, reading, and digging. Our kitchen tent is now the best looking one in camp, and maybe the whole mountain. For dinner, we will be dining on a delectable Mac and Cheese, with plenty of bacon thrown in for good measure. It has been snowing for most of the day, but accumulations have been moderate and the wind has bit of a bite. Everyone is feeling strong, and we are ready to move camp tomorrow..... Weather pending! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait out the Weather

May 29, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jenny Konway, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2017 Though the moisture and winds we've been sitting through were forecasted to dissipate today, Denali had other plans. We haven't seen much all day due to blowing snow and gusty winds. For the brief period that we went over to the ranger tent for a visit, the max gusts hit 42 mph. We made the best of it by inviting Mike's team over for breakfast burritos. Tent fever spurred a lively and long lived game of "heads up." The weather this evening explained our current situation: a low pressure center moving to the NW of the mountain, and frontal passage over the mountain. Things should settle out once the front passes, and once Denali gives the OK, we're ready to take advantage. Until then, we'll listen to the wind blow. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and Team

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Rest at 11,200’

May 29, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

What a winter wonderland for May 28! Over the past week at least three feet of snow has fallen and it is still coming down. Visions of power skiing, snowman building,and marshmallow roasting dance in our heads as we spend a day resting here at 11,200 camp. The group is in good spirits and all set up to move when the mountain gives us our chance. There is quite a community building here at camp because no one has had the opportunity to move up recently. The RMI establishment is on the upper end of Main Street with 4 tents and a communal cook tent where we enjoy pancakes, hot chocolate, and tortellini. Our latrine had a nice makeover today now has three tall walls with a chicane entrance. We are all very happy about the improvements. As for the rest of Main Street there are no Starbucks but a constant view of people shoveling out their tents. Signing off from the little city with a population of 60 people here on the side of Denali. RMI Guides Christina, Brent, JT & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Bill, I would have turned around at the first word of “no Starbucks” at basecamp. The team here is rooting for you! Good luck. -M

Posted by: Mike Wood on 5/30/2017 at 9:27 am

So fun being on the other end this year and reading these updates!(of course I’d rather be there with you!) I’m remembering that igloo at 11k camp…I hope no one had to use it if it’s still there! Steve and Lindsay, I’m so happy to hear you are doing great! I had no doubt you would be rockstars! Brent and Christina I’m remembering all the hard work you put in and how amazing you guys are! Thanks for the updates! Rooting for you guys and for a stretch of good (enough) weather!

Posted by: Dawn Golding on 5/29/2017 at 10:44 am

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Entries from Locations

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Enjoy the Views

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Excited for Better Weather and Getting Ready to Move

On The Map

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Enjoy Sunrise Rather than Summit

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Check in from Huayna Potosi

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Hope For Break in Weather

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting for Break

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Take a Weather Day at 7,800’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait out the Weather

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Rest at 11,200’

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