Entries from Locations

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs on Top!

May 29, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Today's Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Elias reported colder and windier temperatures than expected on their ascent. The team enjoyed some time on the summit before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's climbers!

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Wait out the Storm

May 28, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Lucas Haaland

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2017 Today is very stormy on Denali. Poor visibility, gusty winds and cold temps keep us in our tents today. This morning we had a great joint breakfast with the RMI #2 team's guides and climbers. Other than that, not much new to report. Camp is quiet as no one is venturing out in this weather. There hasn't been a summit in nearly two weeks, and only a few teams have ventured up to high camp (17,200', where we cached 12 days ago), and most of those that have returned with frostbite. It has been cold and windy for a while now. It has to change, right? It's coming down to the wire for our team as our food supply dwindles. We still have hope though... RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Hang in there Rue and team!!! I’m doing the good weather dance for you guys here in San Franciso for you.

Cheers,
Cindee

Posted by: Cindee on 5/29/2017 at 4:14 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Fly Onto Denali

May 28, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

May 28, 2017 1:32 am PST Hi from Denali! The team got a break in the weather around noon today! Big day indeed for flying! We unloaded our gear from the planes, repacked our duffel bags, loaded our sleds and heavy packs and got on the move to our first camp at 7,800ft. The trip to the mountains is finally underway. We made great time in the light cloud cover keeping the air cool in the often blistering heat of the lower Kahiltna glacier. We set up camp had a quick dinner and are now resting our bones! RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Practice Crevasse Rescue at 14,200’

May 28, 2017

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 27, 2017 11:51 pm PST Denali loves to tease. We poked our heads out early this morning to frigid temps and a big, dark cap above us. It was enough to quickly convince us to bury our heads back in our sleeping bags for a bit. At our next check though, the cap was thin, the sky clear, and things looking decidedly in our favor. We jumped out, endured the -30 temps' effects on our toes, and fired stoves for breakfast. The sun broke across camp and we were making moves to get ready to carry. We watched instead however as the cap built, winds started to blow along the West Buttress, and we weren't so sure. All across camp, folks had taken down tents, were packed and ready to walk, and leaned on snow walls staring uphill, exchanging doubts with their neighbors. In short order, we pulled the plug on our carry, other teams' tents went back up, and everyone settled in for another rest day. Such is the rhythm of Denali. After a few rest days in a row, the tents aren't quite as inviting, the novelty having worn off. So we spent a few hours this afternoon looking at crevasse haul systems, and comparing, exchanging ideas and broadening our skills. We're in the waiting game. We've got plenty of food and tonne, so we aren't in a rush. We're enjoying the beauty of where we are right now, sure that our chance will come soon. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny, and Team

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Hello, Amazing Mountaineers! So sorry that the only thing you have exercised the last few days is your patience. Hoping and praying for good weather. Pete, Jess and Jenny, we can’t thank you enough for keeping the team’s safety as your top priority. We are impressed with your creative efforts to keep boredom and impatience at bay. It seems you are all using this break to get to know one another and build comradery. I doubt you had much time for this the first part of the trip as you practically sprinted up to the 14 camp! Your meals sound good. Hope Mark didn’t whine too much about the lentil, kale and quinoa stew!

Rachel, is that you in the snow hole in the picture posted on May 20th?
Will the team ahead of you have to complete their summit and return to 14 or 17 before your team can start?

Posted by: Sue Shoemaker on 5/28/2017 at 10:29 pm

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Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Cache Gear at 13,500’

May 28, 2017

Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

May 27, 2017 10:15 pm PST During our break on the Polo Field at 12,800',someone asked if we could keep our big down parkas on. Good question. It was pretty darned cold and the wind was directly into our face. I'd never had to climb in my parka at that elevator before, but it sure sounded like a good idea to me. Our attempt yesterday really set us up for success today. The team learned how to keep their faces protected while not fogging up their glasses or goggles. And that allowed us to travel in some chilly conditions today. A great skill to have before we get to the higher, colder parts of the mountain. Our time thus far has been particularly cold and unsettled. I'm just glad we haven't been hanging up at 14,200' this whole time like our other two groups. With luck, we'll get there just as this predicted high pressure system comes through, hopefully with the expected rise in temperatures too. We wore those parkas all the way around Windy Corner to our cache site at 13,500', where we were finally sheltered from the wind and could bask in some sunny, warm weather. Amazingly, we all opted to keep those big coats on all the way back to camp. With the wind at our backs and nothing much in our packs, we could gloat just a bit as we passed by the madding crowds on the uphill slog into the cold wind. Our hard work was done, and we were headed back to camp. There's something to be said about being up early and back early even at the cost of breaking trail each morning. If we get another break with the weather tomorrow, we might just make the move to 14,200' camp. That would be fantastic, especially how everyone is doing so well. That's it from 11,200'. It's been a big day. RMI Guides Brent, Christina, JT & Team

MT. Rainier: May 28th Summit!

May 28, 2017

Posted by: Casey Grom, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Chase Nelson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Casey reported that the team is enjoying clear, calm and peaceful skies. The team was leaving the Crater Rim at 6:50 am and are now en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!

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Great job, everyone! What a weekend and chance to experience something new with all of you. My wife asks me why I do things like this and I tell her that beyond the enjoyment of being out in the world and seeing/experiencing first hand what many never will, I always learn something from it - the experience, the people and about myself. I will remember this for a long time - thank you.

Also, I have some pictures and I’d be happy to share - if you have some good ones, I’d love to see them. My e-mail is here.

Last but not least - hat’s off to Casey, Matt, Hannah and Taylor. Summit or not, you helped us do what we could do and you got us home safe - that is what is most important.

Posted by: John Mattke on 5/31/2017 at 12:46 pm

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Descend from Condoriri Group and Return to La Paz

May 27, 2017

Posted by: Eric Frank, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 11,942'

May 27, 2017 A well deserved sleep and sluggish morning let the team regain our feet. Yet, we managed to make the most of it. Our jaunt out of the Condoriri group wasn't quite complete until half the group had jumped into a snow fed reservoir and scrambled back to dry land as fast as our frozen limbs could manage. For all of us, 14,500ft was the highest we had ever swam. A brief stint of skipping stones on clear glassy ponds, and passing the time with our new matted canine friend had the group back into the van and on our way to the city. Today happens to be mothers day down here in Bolivia, (Hi Mom!) and we were greeted with street parties, colorful attire, traffic zebras and a box of empanadas once we passed within city limits. To close out the night, we celebrated our first summit success with a feast of unrealistically large and delicious slabs of meat. And now we go to bed early amid the 'thick' 12,000ft city air, ready to skip right back into the mountains come sunrise. Posted above are a few teaser photos from our ascent of pequeno Alpamayo. RMI Guides Caleb Ladue, Eric Frank and Team Bolivia

Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Return to Talkeetna

May 27, 2017

Posted by: Leon Davis, Mike King, Jessie Poquerusse

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 348'

Groundhog day again. We woke to better weather but there was still enough weather in Talkeetna to keep the plane grounded. Some of us were in the tent sleeping when we got the word that K2 planes were inbound. The team rallied quickly and moved gear to the runway and by early afternoon we were back in town. Typical Alaska weather for us but a great introduction to the team. What a great group of people to share time with in the Alaska range. One of a kind collection of personalities and memories to carry with us forever. Thanks for following! RMI Guides Leon Davis, Mike King and Jessie Poquerusse

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Continue to Wait for Better Weather

May 27, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Lucas Haaland

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

May 27th, 2017 We woke to another day of bitterly cold temps and strong winds above. The weather forecast looks promising for the next few days, so we are optimistic that we will finally get our shot. We're hanging in there and trying to be patient with this long wait. Hopefully it will pay off. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Happy Birthday, David! Lots of folks at lower, warmer elevations wishing you well today. Hope the weather gods give you a present of a break in the storms so that you can ascend that peak! Thinking of all of you…Nancy

Posted by: Nancy Hines on 5/28/2017 at 9:05 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer &Team Create a Weather Day Rhyme

May 27, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jenny Konway, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Hello everyone! Today we rose early, before the sun. It was darn cold out, but we still woke everyone. We ate blueberry pancakes with maple sauce, Man they were delicious and they were the boss! We were hoping for good weather, to carry to 17. But the mountain above us remained unseen. We chatted with our neighbors and told some jokes, Man those guys are funny blokes! Tomorrow we'll see what the weather brings. Hopefully that old sunshine comes out and sings! RMI Guide Jenny and The camp 14 Hiphopapotomus

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Entries from Locations

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climbs on Top!

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Wait out the Storm

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Fly Onto Denali

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Practice Crevasse Rescue at 14,200’

Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Cache Gear at 13,500’

MT. Rainier: May 28th Summit!

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Descend from Condoriri Group and Return to La Paz

Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Return to Talkeetna

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Continue to Wait for Better Weather

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer &Team Create a Weather Day Rhyme

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