RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Robby Young, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Alex Halliday reached Ingraham Flats today but high winds forced the team to turn. They are currently at Camp Muir with winds blowing steadily at 40 mph. They will plan an early departure, and will be back at Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.
Congratulations team!
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Categories: 50 Years of Climbing
My first RMI climb was also my first climb of a glaciated mountain. Born and raised in Charleston, SC. I grew up hiking, backpacking and rock climbing in Appalachia. I wanted more, to go higher, farther and to learn the skills to take myself. “No Shortcuts to the Top” was worn and dog eared on my bedside table. I had spent hours staring at pictures of Ed Viesturs, standing on the summits I hoped to one day stand as well. He spoke of a mythical mountain in the Pacific Northwest where he got his start, Mt. Rainier.
In the Spring of 2007, I was finishing my junior year at the University of South Carolina. I thought back to Mt. Rainier and checked “No Shortcuts to the Top” again about the guide service Ed worked for. I did some research and booked the standard 3-day climb for the end of June. I had done lots of backpacking and hiking but had never stood higher than 5,000 ft or so in the Blue Ridge Mountains.
I flew to Seattle, arriving late that night. I checked into a cheap hotel downtown. Behind the desk was a big picture of The Mountain. It looked much bigger now, maybe I had bitten off more than I could chew. I wasn't old enough to rent a car. I found a bus that left from Seattle, went to RMI headquarters in Ashford, around the mountain and back. I got on that morning with the rest of the day tourists and was a bit out of place with my big backpack. When the bus stopped in Ashford I just got off and didn't get back on when it left. I planned on jumping back on in few days after my climb was over. I do not think you can pull this off anymore.
Climbers everywhere, climbing gear sprawled out all over the lawn. You could tell from the sunburns and facial expressions who had finished their climb and who had just begun. I checked into the bunkhouse and got fitted for all my rental gear. What am I going to do with all this, I wondered?
Early the next morning, we met the guides and team members. Mark Smiley and Tyler Jones were the guides that day. We left base camp for mountaineering school and headed up to Paradise. The mountain was socked in. I had not seen it at all since arriving in the PNW. It was there somewhere, hiding in the thick clouds. The snow came all the way to the parking lot, it was deep. We grabbed our gear and hiked about 30 minutes to some slopes leading up the mountain. We learned how to move as a rope team and how to self arrest a fall. It started snowing pretty hard and after a few hours we headed back for Ashford. Word on the radio was that no one was making the summit that day.
The next day we met again early and were split into summit team A and B. I was part of team A and we had a new guide; her name was Melissa Arnot. We packed and left for Paradise again. The mountain was still hiding. Clouds and light snow greeted us as we started the hike up. The pack was heavy but I kind of liked it. We would hike for an hour and rest for 10 minutes and repeat.
At around 8,000 feet my life changed forever. In almost an instant we climbed out of the clouds and I saw her for the first time. I was in shock at how grand she was, excitement and a bit of fear took over me. I was hooked instantly. The sun was shining bright above us and snowing below, where am I?
A few more hours of hiking and we pulled into Camp Muir at 10,000 feet. We spent the rest of the day resting and getting ready for the climb that would take place later in the middle of the night.
Around midnight we were woken up and told to get ready. I walked outside and not one cloud in the star filled sky. We headed up the mountain, Melissa on my rope leading the way. I felt like I was on another planet and I also knew my life would never be the same. We got up and over the infamous Disappointment Cleaver and it got really cold. At the top of the Cleaver, Melissa told me something I will never forget, “mountain climbers must have a high pain tolerance and short memory.”
We crossed over huge crevasses, snow bridges and ladders and finally had our last break. At around 7:00 AM we crossed the rocks at the rim of the crater and on to the summit. I was overcome with new emotions. High on a drug I have yet to come down on 12 years later. Our group hugged and took pictures but it was only half over. We made it back down to Camp Muir, then to Paradise, and finally back to RMI BaseCamp. I was exhausted but elated.
June 2019 was almost exactly 12 years to the day of my first summit. On July 6th, I flew to Seattle for my 5th climb of Mt. Rainier, having summited all but once due to a week of terrible weather. I always stay the night before at RMI BaseCamp in Ashford, it is nice to remember where it all began. A lot has changed since that first climb.
Climbing mountains became an integral part of my life. The summer after my Mt. Rainier climb I took a 2-week mountaineering course in Alaska. The year after that, a 42 day all-inclusive guide school on the northern ice cap in Patagonia, Chile. Before I left to come home, the company hired me on. I worked for them for a few years back and forth in Alaska. In 2015 my guide friend in India brought me over to help him lead a trip in the Indian Himalaya. Two weeks after I returned, I took my brother to stand on the summit of Rainier. The next summer, me and some long-time climbing friends summited Denali. Last summer, I took a group to Mt. Blanc in the Alps. In 2014, 2017, and 2019 I took more friends to Rainier.
Showing others this incredible world high above the clouds is my new summit. For those I feel not ready enough to be a part of my independent team, I send them to the wonderful guides at RMI, always remembering my very first trip and the incredible woman who led me to my first summit. Little did I know back in 2007, that Melissa Arnot would become one of the premier climbers on the planet and the first US woman to summit Everest without O2. In these 12 years, climbing mountains has introduced me to incredible places around the world and many of my dearest friends are those I have shared a rope with. It all started with RMI guides, on my now favorite mountain on Earth.
I’ve always been amazed at your mountain climbing. Enjoying seeing the mountains through your eyes. Proud of you Justin and your brother!
Posted by: Robin Legare on 9/14/2019 at 5:16 am
Wayne and I have followed his climbing and know him, his brother and family personally. We are so proud and in awe of all he has done. He is a fine young man and indeed a mountain climber. Well done Justin!
Posted by: Wayne & Carol on 9/13/2019 at 7:16 pm
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Alan Davis met at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday for their Technical Training day. The team loaded packs and headed to Camp Muir on Monday morning. They have spent the last few days training near Camp Muir on glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques. This morning they put their training to the test, leaving Camp Muir with an alpine start. They were rewarded with clear skies and light winds as they reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 8 AM. Once they have taken all the hero shots and enjoyed the views, they will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow the team will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp for the conclusion of their program.
Congratulations to the Seminar teams!
Congrats team! Chris, we miss you and can’t wait to see all the photos! Love you
Posted by: Kristen B on 9/16/2019 at 11:10 pm
Congratulations Kristopher! We are so excited and proud of you. We can’t wait to see your pictures of this extreme adventure! Mom and Dad
Posted by: Sheri Johnson on 9/13/2019 at 3:28 pm
We wanted some sunlight on the Easton glacier so route finding would be a little easier after several days of rain and no summits of Mt. Baker. By sunrise we had tried three different tracks through the broken up glacier, which all ended in absent snow bridges. Two of the guides went out to sniff out a 4th option that we could see from our break below 8,000’. The Team kept uphill for another 700’ before encountering warm snow and a snow bridge that didn’t look like it would last much longer let alone allow nine people to cross it. Being late in the morning and deteriorating visibility above us, we made the difficult decision to turn around and come back to camp. We enjoyed some great climbing and views of the surrounding peaks as we descended. At camp now after a good nap we are learning some skills and going to eat dinner. Tomorrow morning the team will pack up and descend to the trailhead.
RMI Guide Mike King
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Joe Hoch, David Price
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier September 7 - 9 team made their summit attempt this morning but were turned back due to extremely wet conditions. The team returned to their High Camp and was going to take a bit of time to dry out. Later today they will continue their descent to the trailhead and conclude their program.
Posted by: Robby Young, Josh McDowell
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb September 6 - 9 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today with new snow and windy conditions led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Josh McDowell. The teams did not spend much time in the crater, just taking a short break to hydrate and snack before starting their descent to Camp Muir. The program will conclude this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp with a celebration of today's accomplishments.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Great job Katelyn and Fred! So happy to hear y’all got to make it to the top this time around. I hope you enjoyed the climb and aren’t too sore afterwards! Love y’all.
Be safe coming down and getting home!
Posted by: Hayden on 9/9/2019 at 11:13 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Andy Bond
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb September 5 - 8 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Andy Bond. The guides reported cold temperatures this morning with winds 15 mph and a dusting of new snow on the upper mountain. Mother nature put on quite a show last night with thunder and lightning throughout the area followed by some serious rain. We are glad the timing of the storm happened once the teams were at Camp Muir and cleared enough for them to make it to the summit today. Once back at Camp Muir the teams will continue to Paradise and transfer to Rainier BaseCamp. This afternoon they will conclude their program with a short celebration.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
WTG dad! So proud! Can’t wait to see pictures!
Posted by: Jennifer C Hitz on 9/8/2019 at 5:00 pm
Good job, Proud of you!
Posted by: Bobby & Kristi on 9/8/2019 at 12:53 pm
Posted by: Ben Ammon, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Ben Ammon and Alex Halliday reached the summit of Mt. Rainier Early this morning. Ben reported steady winds of 15 - 20 mph with a cap forming. The team spent a short amount of time on the top before starting their descent.
Congratulations to Today's Team!
Thank you to our team leads Ben, Nevin and Grayson for getting us safely up and down. And for the stupid jokes, well, thanks for trying.
Posted by: Dawn on 9/8/2019 at 1:37 pm
Jason? You made it? Watched our amazing lightning storm last night and sent you encouraging thoughts! Congrats.
Posted by: Ruth on 9/8/2019 at 6:54 am
Posted by: Brent Okita, Jenny Konway
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jenny Konway led the Four Day Climb September 2 - 5 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Brent radioed the RMI office just after 7 AM that the teams were approaching Columbia Crest, they had reached the crater rim at 6:40 AM. It's another beautiful day on the mountain with clear skies and winds 15-20 mph. The team left the summit at 7:45 AM headed down hill. The program will conclude this afternoon with a cheers to their accomplishments.
Yayyy! So happy they made it!!
Posted by: Leigh carson on 9/6/2019 at 2:58 pm
RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan today with beautiful weather. They climbed the Fisher Chimneys route and didn't see any other climbers on the route. They enjoyed having the mountain all to themselves.
Congratulation to the team!
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Disappointing to not quite get there but thanks to very experienced leadership making right calls! Great effort all!
Posted by: Judith Dykes on 9/14/2019 at 8:47 am
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