RMI Expeditions Blog

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Flying to McKinley’s Kahiltna Glacier

June 13, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Thursday, June 13, 2013 RMI Guide Mike Haugen called from Talkeetna, Alaska this morning. The weather is beautiful and the team is packed and ready. They are loading their planes at the K2 Aviation Hanger and will be flying to the Kahiltna Glacier today. We wish them a safe and successful expedition on Mt. McKinley!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Have a safe ascent and descent after you all summit. We are so proud of you QL.

Posted by: George Landers on 6/14/2013 at 3:53 pm

Best of luck to everyone. Be safe and don’t forget to have fun.

A big shout out to Cindee Teer!

Posted by: Alyse Parrino on 6/14/2013 at 3:32 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 13, 2013 Summit!

June 13, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Reid, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Jason Thompson and Tyler Reid and their Four Day Summit Climb Teams reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported great climbing conditions, with clear skies, calm winds. They spent some time on the summit and are now en route to Camp Muir. Eric Frank and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Team Reached the top of Mt. Rainier at 12:15pm PST today. The team enjoyed putting their newly acquired skills to the test on the route and have started their descent. This is the first summit via the Kautz route for an RMI team this season! Congratulations to today's teams!

Mt. McKinley: June 11th - Team Haugen Arrives in Talkeetna

June 13, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Hi All! We are hanging out in beautiful Talkeetna, Alaska. We had a gorgeous day for organizing and packing our gear. the sun is shining and the mountain is visible in the distance. The team met up in Anchorage yesterday and have been slowly molding into Summit Assassin RMI Team 6! They really are a great crew! Our gear is all bagged, weighed, and tagged. We got the word that we are all supposed to fly to basecamp around 9 tomorrow morning so we are all scrambling to get in those last correspondences and last minute tasks before the morning. We are all set for an incredible expedition. Off to bed for an early start- RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’

June 13, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 A fine day for a move presented itself to us this morning and we certainly made the most of it. Leaving our 11,000' Camp in the early morning cold is great training for the chill of higher altitude and we made a solid bid before the sun came out in force. It's nearly always hot coming into 14 and today was no exception. We were treated to some real hospitality when we arrived in the form of another RMI Team, led by Tyler Jones and Garret Stevens. Freshly hydrated, we set to work building camp and rebuilding ourselves with a big meal and early night's rest. Tomorrow is a rest day, but I hazard a guess that we will be working in some way most of the day, retrieving a cache, fortifying camp and practicing for the fixed lines. It is exciting to be up here with such a great team! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Galen,
I wait eagerly everyday for updates, checking the blog multiple times (despite the fact that I have subscribed to notifications). I have also read the blogs of the team you saw come down after their summit as well as the other team who’s also at 14k but started before your team. Reading all of these incredible stories and lush descriptions makes me jelly :( and reminds me of when I camped on top of tajumulco. Looks like there’s a bit of very cold and fierce wind and you may have to wait before climbing to 17k and/or to the top. By my calculations, you have 2/3 days of buffer time so hopefully the winds will die down a bit. Or “if you can hold on. If you can hold on, hold on.” Today I found myself thinking and brainstorming about our travel and it made me happy. I hope to see you soon R

Posted by: Alice on 6/14/2013 at 1:04 am

Keep up the great work everyone!I miss you Michael, have fun and be safe. Love Vien.

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/13/2013 at 5:22 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Wait Another Day

June 12, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 Today is unfortunately another out chill situation. Garrett and I woke about 6 this morning to continued strong wind from 16,000 feet and above. The nature of the climbing is steep and exposed. With wind and a very cold north east flow, the risk of frostbite and loss of balance from the wind gusts, we have chosen to stay another day and hope for less wind tomorrow. We try to conserve our lunch food and avoid the piggy tendency that sitting and waiting in the tents provides! The weather is clear and warm in most of Alaska, but at the altitudes we want to venture into, the jet stream is on! On a more positive note, RMI Guide Jake Beren and his crew pulled into camp this afternoon, making for a great meeting of the minds in our 14,200' home. We are excited to spend some time with friends and climbing partners from past trips, although we do have high hopes for a move tomorrow. Report back soon! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jess and team,

Mother nature will cooperate, she is just having one of those days. Weather down here not much better. Keep up the spirits, it will get better.

Jess, miss you here! Keep up the great work.

Love, Hector

Posted by: Hector Valle on 6/13/2013 at 4:35 pm

Robin and Team!
Kudos to all of you for staying put and being safe! I have faith that conditions will be much better tomorrow and you will be able to move to your high camp.
Stay safe and stay warm and lots of prayers for your safe successful climb tomorrow. As the lyrics go “movin on up!” Look forward to your next blog from high camp!
Love DAD

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/13/2013 at 6:18 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 12, 2013 - Summit!

June 12, 2013

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Billy reported clear and beautiful skies, but cold temperatures with winds of about 10 - 15 mph form the northwest. The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 13,500’

June 11, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Tuesday, June 11, 2013 All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000' tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way. Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA

Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm

James and Others:

It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve). Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive, persistence, and stamina! Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe. Best of success as you all continue to ascent!

Fred

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Team Jones Waiting For Calmer Winds

June 11, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 11, 2013 You can't always get what you want... Those lyrics from Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones were the first thing that went through the collective consciousness this morning. The guides woke at 6am, packed sleeping bags in preparation for departure and unzipped the tent - only to see winds whipping the ridge of the West Buttress route above. While camp here at 14,200' remains relatively calm, the higher reaches of the mountain are getting pummeled by ferocious northeast winds, which are sending plumes of spindrift snow off into the stratosphere. With a forecast high temperature of -15F at the 17,000' camp today, and winds gusting well into the 30mph range, the only safe option is to wait here in camp and hope for a less windy day to make our move. That combination of wind and temperature will actually feel like -65F (approximately), which can freeze exposed flesh in one minute. Needless to say, we're not going to venture into that kind environment. So here we sit and wait, hoping for a break in the wind. We were treated to a bodacious air show earlier, when the contract helicopter, an A-Star B-3, came ripping around and right over our tents about three times in a row. Seems like they are doing some sort of filming up here, and we all mugged shamelessly as the ship blasted less than 40 feet above us. Good entertainment, to say the least. While we have had more than one facetious conversation about moving in the wind storm, the group is prepared to wait for the right time and the right weather window. To channel the Stones yet again (and continue the song): If you try sometimes, you might find you get what you need So here's hoping we get what we need! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the patiently waiting team

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Completely enjoy today and the amazing view from where you are….you are somewhere so very few have ever been! Way to feel and create the magic of your life’s goals :)! Onwards and Upwards to you all!!!

Posted by: Sue Lopez on 6/12/2013 at 12:58 pm

Nothing wrong with sitting tight and waiting for the right moment. Just stay safe and stay warm and have another bagel:) We’ll be praying for your weather to break… and you will get what you need. Looking forward to your next installment.
Cheers and prayers for you all!

Matt -1

Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/11/2013 at 10:03 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 11, 2013 Summit!

June 11, 2013

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Zeb Blais, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos and our Five Day Summit Climb Team Led by RMI Guide Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams climbed above the 8000’ cloud deck and reported moderate winds. They will spend some time on the summit before descending back to Camp Muir. The Expedition Skills Semnar - Emmons Team led by Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Route this morning. The team had a great day of climbing and are the first RMI team to reach the summit of Mt.Rainier via the Emmons route this season. Congratulations to today's teams!

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Woohoo! Yey dad!

Posted by: Jennifer on 6/12/2013 at 6:19 pm

Awesome!!!!! I am so happy that you were able to make it to the top. Thank you to the entire team ... I am sure that it took lots of team work to accomplish your goal! I love you John!!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/11/2013 at 6:22 pm

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RMI Guides Lindsay Mann and Pete Van Deventer Sail and Ski in Norway’s Lofoten Islands

June 11, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Guide News

I climbed Mt. Rainier with my father last summer. After a memorable summit, my dad - a man of little words - expressed his confidence in my abilities as a mountain guide, a compliment I did not take lightly. He told me that he trusted my decision-making in the mountains and wanted me to be a part of his dream trip: combining his passion for the water and the mountains with a sailing and skiing trip in the Lofoten Islands of Norway. I immediately approached fellow RMI Guide and good friend Pete Van Deventer to see if he was interested in joining the crew. Without hesitation Pete and his wife committed to the trip. Besides being a great climbing partner, Pete had spent time in Norway in college and was eager to return. Additionally, he suggested that we invite one of his Norwegian friends to accompany us. Magnus had already completed a similar trip and was able to offer great suggestions about boat charters and finding a competent captain for our voyage. The dream trip was starting to take shape. After months of training and preparation, we headed to Norway in April. My dad and I flew to Oslo where we spent two days sightseeing before flying above the Arctic Circle to a fishing village on the west coast to meet our team. A few hours after arriving in Svolvaer, we heard ski bags rolling on pavement. Pete, Katie, Magnus and Maria, Magnus' girlfriend, arrived at the boat and our seven-day adventure began! The boat at dock.

The next morning we woke up to partly cloudy skies and the realization that a 44-foot sailboat is a tight space for ski gear, sailing gear, and eight people. After organizing our gear in waves, we left the boat with skis on our packs and walked toward a favorite local ski touring peak. Successfully navigating the Svolvaer neighborhoods, we finally reached snow. With climbing skins on our skis we began our ascent up the south side of a peak named Blåtind. Partway up the mountain, it began to rain and visibility dwindled. Too excited to turn back on our first day of ski touring, we decided to continue. A few minutes after reaching the saddle on Blåtind the sun came out and we focused our attention on a ski line on east side of the peak. The conditions were spring corn snow. After a close to 2,000’ descent we put our skins back on and toured along the water to the nearest road where we hailed a taxi back to the sailboat. The following morning we set sail to the Trollfjord. The Trollfjord is an area accessible to skiers only by boat. With our sails up and Katie Van Deventer at the helm, we sailed to the entrance of the Trollfjord - a dauntingly narrow waterway surrounded by steep walls. We docked amid howling winds and a mix of rain and snow. Reaching the TrollfjordHyatta, a cabin in the Norweigan Hut System, would have to wait until the next day. We woke to improved weather and loaded our ski gear and a night’s worth of food onto the dock. The boat sailed away promising to return the following afternoon and we spent the morning skinning to the TrollfjordHyatta. The hut turned out to be a small majestic wooden cabin surrounded by peaks in every direction. Inspired by the mountains around us, we headed out to ski Peak 975. We had great views of our climb ahead and discussed our route and ski options. After an hour the terrain became too steep to skin. With skis on our packs, and clouds rolling in, we reached the top of Peak 975. Since the light was flat we used our bootpack to guide us as we skied down the same route we ascended. The visibility improved and we were reminded of the natural beauty of the Trollfjord. Taking advantage of the good weather we added a few laps to finish our day on a smaller peak just above the cabin. From there we could see the dramatic entrance to the Trollfjord and the unlimited ski options for the following day. The night in the hut was filled with wine, laughs, and Ludo, a Norweigan board game. In the morning we were able to get a few runs in on some steep north facing chutes before returning to dock where we met the boat. The TrollfjordHyatta

Lindsay Mann touring into the TrollfjordHyatta.

As we sailed away, inspired by the endless quantity of peaks around us, we discussed the multitude of ski options for the day and remainder of the trip. The next few days were unlike any trip I have known. The terrain and sailboat allowed for ultimate flexibility. If the weather was good, we would ski; if the weather was marginal, we would set sail waiting for the conditions to change. Once we decided upon a peak the question then became: how do we get to shore? This was often time and energy consuming. We would either dock the boat or, if that wasn’t an option, we would get ashore via dinghy. If we went by dinghy Frederik, our captain, shuttled us and our gear ashore while Iselin, the assistant captain, handled the sailboat. From the dock or shore we would skin or walk a few miles to a skiable peak, climb and ski it, and make our way back to the boat. This sometimes meant walking, other times we were able to ski within a few hundred meters of the boat. Other times it meant taking a cab to where the boat was docked. Each day was a new adventure with a new set of options. Taking the dinghy to shore

As the days passed, the weather improved and we finally had the perfect Norweigan ski descent on the last day of the trip. For the first time during our adventure we woke up to bluebird skies and decided to ski a peak called Storgalten. Upon reaching the top of the peak could see mountains, water, and our sailboat. Thrilled with the descent, Pete, Katie and Magnus celebrated it with a plunge into the fjord. We then set sail back to Harstad, our final destination, with Storgalten still in view. Weeks later, I’m still amazed by the diversity and accessibility of the terrain found in the Lofoten Islands. I have been lucky enough to ski and climb in mountains all over this world and this trip was truly unique. What made it all the more special to me was being able to share it with my father and a group of close friends that got along seamlessly on a 44-foot sailboat for seven days. Pete Van Deventer skiing down Storgalten.