RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Tuesday, June 11, 2013
All these early mornings are sure getting us dialed on working in the cold and will surely pay off up high. Today we led the way out of 11,000 ft camp by a few hours and reaped the reward of hitting the sun at a not-so Windy Corner and putting in our cache at 13,500 ft in still, warm weather. The team did a great job and collectively we avoided baking in the afternoon sun. Now back at camp, the team is relaxing and recovering so that if Mother Nature allows, we can bump camps to 14,000' tomorrow. All we can do now is rest up and hope that Windy Corner lets us through one more time.
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard
On The Map
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June 11, 2013
You can't always get what you want...
Those lyrics from Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones were the first thing that went through the collective consciousness this morning. The guides woke at 6am, packed sleeping bags in preparation for departure and unzipped the tent - only to see winds whipping the ridge of the West Buttress route above.
While camp here at 14,200' remains relatively calm, the higher reaches of the mountain are getting pummeled by ferocious northeast winds, which are sending plumes of spindrift snow off into the stratosphere. With a forecast high temperature of -15F at the 17,000' camp today, and winds gusting well into the 30mph range, the only safe option is to wait here in camp and hope for a less windy day to make our move. That combination of wind and temperature will actually feel like -65F (approximately), which can freeze exposed flesh in one minute. Needless to say, we're not going to venture into that kind environment.
So here we sit and wait, hoping for a break in the wind. We were treated to a bodacious air show earlier, when the contract helicopter, an A-Star B-3, came ripping around and right over our tents about three times in a row. Seems like they are doing some sort of filming up here, and we all mugged shamelessly as the ship blasted less than 40 feet above us. Good entertainment, to say the least.
While we have had more than one facetious conversation about moving in the wind storm, the group is prepared to wait for the right time and the right weather window. To channel the Stones yet again (and continue the song):
If you try sometimes, you might find you get what you need
So here's hoping we get what we need!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the patiently waiting team
On The Map
Completely enjoy today and the amazing view from where you are….you are somewhere so very few have ever been! Way to feel and create the magic of your life’s goals :)! Onwards and Upwards to you all!!!
Posted by: Sue Lopez on 6/12/2013 at 12:58 pm
Nothing wrong with sitting tight and waiting for the right moment. Just stay safe and stay warm and have another bagel:) We’ll be praying for your weather to break… and you will get what you need. Looking forward to your next installment.
Cheers and prayers for you all!
Matt -1
Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/11/2013 at 10:03 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Zeb Blais, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos and our Five Day Summit Climb Team Led by RMI Guide Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams climbed above the 8000’ cloud deck and reported moderate winds. They will spend some time on the summit before descending back to Camp Muir.
The Expedition Skills Semnar - Emmons Team led by Geoff Schellens reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Route this morning. The team had a great day of climbing and are the first RMI team to reach the summit of Mt.Rainier via the Emmons route this season.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Woohoo! Yey dad!
Posted by: Jennifer on 6/12/2013 at 6:19 pm
Awesome!!!!! I am so happy that you were able to make it to the top. Thank you to the entire team ... I am sure that it took lots of team work to accomplish your goal! I love you John!!!!
Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/11/2013 at 6:22 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Guide News
I climbed Mt. Rainier with my father last summer. After a memorable summit, my dad - a man of little words - expressed his confidence in my abilities as a mountain guide, a compliment I did not take lightly. He told me that he trusted my decision-making in the mountains and wanted me to be a part of his dream trip: combining his passion for the water and the mountains with a sailing and skiing trip in the Lofoten Islands of Norway.
I immediately approached fellow RMI Guide and good friend Pete Van Deventer to see if he was interested in joining the crew. Without hesitation Pete and his wife committed to the trip. Besides being a great climbing partner, Pete had spent time in Norway in college and was eager to return. Additionally, he suggested that we invite one of his Norwegian friends to accompany us. Magnus had already completed a similar trip and was able to offer great suggestions about boat charters and finding a competent captain for our voyage. The dream trip was starting to take shape.
After months of training and preparation, we headed to Norway in April. My dad and I flew to Oslo where we spent two days sightseeing before flying above the Arctic Circle to a fishing village on the west coast to meet our team. A few hours after arriving in Svolvaer, we heard ski bags rolling on pavement. Pete, Katie, Magnus and Maria, Magnus' girlfriend, arrived at the boat and our seven-day adventure began!
The next morning we woke up to partly cloudy skies and the realization that a 44-foot sailboat is a tight space for ski gear, sailing gear, and eight people. After organizing our gear in waves, we left the boat with skis on our packs and walked toward a favorite local ski touring peak. Successfully navigating the Svolvaer neighborhoods, we finally reached snow. With climbing skins on our skis we began our ascent up the south side of a peak named Blåtind. Partway up the mountain, it began to rain and visibility dwindled. Too excited to turn back on our first day of ski touring, we decided to continue. A few minutes after reaching the saddle on Blåtind the sun came out and we focused our attention on a ski line on east side of the peak. The conditions were spring corn snow. After a close to 2,000’ descent we put our skins back on and toured along the water to the nearest road where we hailed a taxi back to the sailboat.
The following morning we set sail to the Trollfjord. The Trollfjord is an area accessible to skiers only by boat. With our sails up and Katie Van Deventer at the helm, we sailed to the entrance of the Trollfjord - a dauntingly narrow waterway surrounded by steep walls. We docked amid howling winds and a mix of rain and snow. Reaching the TrollfjordHyatta, a cabin in the Norweigan Hut System, would have to wait until the next day.
We woke to improved weather and loaded our ski gear and a night’s worth of food onto the dock. The boat sailed away promising to return the following afternoon and we spent the morning skinning to the TrollfjordHyatta. The hut turned out to be a small majestic wooden cabin surrounded by peaks in every direction. Inspired by the mountains around us, we headed out to ski Peak 975. We had great views of our climb ahead and discussed our route and ski options. After an hour the terrain became too steep to skin. With skis on our packs, and clouds rolling in, we reached the top of Peak 975. Since the light was flat we used our bootpack to guide us as we skied down the same route we ascended. The visibility improved and we were reminded of the natural beauty of the Trollfjord. Taking advantage of the good weather we added a few laps to finish our day on a smaller peak just above the cabin. From there we could see the dramatic entrance to the Trollfjord and the unlimited ski options for the following day. The night in the hut was filled with wine, laughs, and Ludo, a Norweigan board game. In the morning we were able to get a few runs in on some steep north facing chutes before returning to dock where we met the boat.
As we sailed away, inspired by the endless quantity of peaks around us, we discussed the multitude of ski options for the day and remainder of the trip. The next few days were unlike any trip I have known. The terrain and sailboat allowed for ultimate flexibility. If the weather was good, we would ski; if the weather was marginal, we would set sail waiting for the conditions to change. Once we decided upon a peak the question then became: how do we get to shore?
This was often time and energy consuming. We would either dock the boat or, if that wasn’t an option, we would get ashore via dinghy. If we went by dinghy Frederik, our captain, shuttled us and our gear ashore while Iselin, the assistant captain, handled the sailboat. From the dock or shore we would skin or walk a few miles to a skiable peak, climb and ski it, and make our way back to the boat. This sometimes meant walking, other times we were able to ski within a few hundred meters of the boat. Other times it meant taking a cab to where the boat was docked. Each day was a new adventure with a new set of options.
As the days passed, the weather improved and we finally had the perfect Norweigan ski descent on the last day of the trip. For the first time during our adventure we woke up to bluebird skies and decided to ski a peak called Storgalten. Upon reaching the top of the peak could see mountains, water, and our sailboat. Thrilled with the descent, Pete, Katie and Magnus celebrated it with a plunge into the fjord. We then set sail back to Harstad, our final destination, with Storgalten still in view. Weeks later, I’m still amazed by the diversity and accessibility of the terrain found in the Lofoten Islands. I have been lucky enough to ski and climb in mountains all over this world and this trip was truly unique. What made it all the more special to me was being able to share it with my father and a group of close friends that got along seamlessly on a 44-foot sailboat for seven days.
The next morning we woke up to partly cloudy skies and the realization that a 44-foot sailboat is a tight space for ski gear, sailing gear, and eight people. After organizing our gear in waves, we left the boat with skis on our packs and walked toward a favorite local ski touring peak. Successfully navigating the Svolvaer neighborhoods, we finally reached snow. With climbing skins on our skis we began our ascent up the south side of a peak named Blåtind. Partway up the mountain, it began to rain and visibility dwindled. Too excited to turn back on our first day of ski touring, we decided to continue. A few minutes after reaching the saddle on Blåtind the sun came out and we focused our attention on a ski line on east side of the peak. The conditions were spring corn snow. After a close to 2,000’ descent we put our skins back on and toured along the water to the nearest road where we hailed a taxi back to the sailboat.
The following morning we set sail to the Trollfjord. The Trollfjord is an area accessible to skiers only by boat. With our sails up and Katie Van Deventer at the helm, we sailed to the entrance of the Trollfjord - a dauntingly narrow waterway surrounded by steep walls. We docked amid howling winds and a mix of rain and snow. Reaching the TrollfjordHyatta, a cabin in the Norweigan Hut System, would have to wait until the next day.
We woke to improved weather and loaded our ski gear and a night’s worth of food onto the dock. The boat sailed away promising to return the following afternoon and we spent the morning skinning to the TrollfjordHyatta. The hut turned out to be a small majestic wooden cabin surrounded by peaks in every direction. Inspired by the mountains around us, we headed out to ski Peak 975. We had great views of our climb ahead and discussed our route and ski options. After an hour the terrain became too steep to skin. With skis on our packs, and clouds rolling in, we reached the top of Peak 975. Since the light was flat we used our bootpack to guide us as we skied down the same route we ascended. The visibility improved and we were reminded of the natural beauty of the Trollfjord. Taking advantage of the good weather we added a few laps to finish our day on a smaller peak just above the cabin. From there we could see the dramatic entrance to the Trollfjord and the unlimited ski options for the following day. The night in the hut was filled with wine, laughs, and Ludo, a Norweigan board game. In the morning we were able to get a few runs in on some steep north facing chutes before returning to dock where we met the boat.
As we sailed away, inspired by the endless quantity of peaks around us, we discussed the multitude of ski options for the day and remainder of the trip. The next few days were unlike any trip I have known. The terrain and sailboat allowed for ultimate flexibility. If the weather was good, we would ski; if the weather was marginal, we would set sail waiting for the conditions to change. Once we decided upon a peak the question then became: how do we get to shore?
This was often time and energy consuming. We would either dock the boat or, if that wasn’t an option, we would get ashore via dinghy. If we went by dinghy Frederik, our captain, shuttled us and our gear ashore while Iselin, the assistant captain, handled the sailboat. From the dock or shore we would skin or walk a few miles to a skiable peak, climb and ski it, and make our way back to the boat. This sometimes meant walking, other times we were able to ski within a few hundred meters of the boat. Other times it meant taking a cab to where the boat was docked. Each day was a new adventure with a new set of options.
As the days passed, the weather improved and we finally had the perfect Norweigan ski descent on the last day of the trip. For the first time during our adventure we woke up to bluebird skies and decided to ski a peak called Storgalten. Upon reaching the top of the peak could see mountains, water, and our sailboat. Thrilled with the descent, Pete, Katie and Magnus celebrated it with a plunge into the fjord. We then set sail back to Harstad, our final destination, with Storgalten still in view. Weeks later, I’m still amazed by the diversity and accessibility of the terrain found in the Lofoten Islands. I have been lucky enough to ski and climb in mountains all over this world and this trip was truly unique. What made it all the more special to me was being able to share it with my father and a group of close friends that got along seamlessly on a 44-foot sailboat for seven days.
Looks awesome!! Such I tough life you guys have!!
Posted by: Dan Brockway on 6/12/2013 at 10:28 am
This. Looks. Amazing.
Posted by: Sarah on 6/11/2013 at 10:36 am
Monday, June 10, 2013
A windy and cold night was greeted by more wind. For our team this is no issue, as we had planned this second consecutive rest day. This will be just the ticket for a more acclimatized and rested body that we will need for summit success.
The menu for this morning was supreme. Round upon round of bagels with cream cheese topped with bacon along with hash browns covered in cheese took us once again well past noon to complete.
The places we travel in the mountains can lead one to believe we are Martians, ready to launch onto to another planet - and that is exactly what we are doing. We push ourselves both mentally and physically, taking our personal learning and discovery to a higher level. When we return from these Martian lands, after having come face to face with deep personal truths and surpassing previously held limitations...we bring a richer and more rounded person home, someone who understands more about the nature of teamwork, sacrifice, and awareness. We thank you all for the support and the opportunity to let us dig deep and take on a new understanding of our passions!
The afternoon has more smelly tent time spent pounding water, fussing over who is the best celeb of all time and growing hairier by the day! The forecast is looking to set up nicely over the next few days and we hope to move to our high camp tomorrow. Till then keep the vibe high for our push!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the crew
On The Map
Great work Justin aka Jason. can’t wait to see your pictures. Clubbie
Posted by: Kathy on 6/11/2013 at 9:29 am
Nice going! And congratulations, Justin—I think the Kensington Fire Department lightweights have nothing on you now.
Posted by: Peter on 6/11/2013 at 8:31 am
Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
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Monday, June 10, 2013
It did snow a little bit last night and the cold wind this morning made a camp day a welcome change of pace for this team. We are climbing very well so far, and I'm sure everyone would've done just fine continuing higher this morning. Patience on the big mountain is key, and the recovery day will only make us stronger for the future as we acclimatize and settle in to camp life.
After a big breakfast we reviewed some cramponing techniques and ice axe usage. After our mid-morning relaxation session we are going to have a potluck lunch and move to a little rope work and cache digging before dinner. Tomorrow if the weather is workable we will carry towards 14,000' Camp and get a little taste of some real altitude. Everyone sends their best to family and friends back home.
Over and out,
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Team Caraccio is thinking of you Mike. You are an inspiration to us all. Love Lori
Posted by: Lori on 6/11/2013 at 4:15 pm
Thinking of you Michael. I love you and miss you!
Vien
Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/11/2013 at 11:13 am
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Andres Marin and Shaun Sears reached the summit of Mt Rainier on this clear, sunny morning. They reported windy conditions with views all the way to Mt. Hood in Oregon. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. After a short rest at Camp Muir, the teams will continue down to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing everyone at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations!
I think my family might be in this group. Congratulations!!
Posted by: Diane Pinney on 6/10/2013 at 3:21 pm
Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Josh Maggard
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
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Sunday, June 9, 2013
Tonight we will sleep well after three big days on the lower Kahiltna. We arrived to 11,000' camp in the early warmth of a new day and made camp easily. A strong performance by the team gives us great confidence in our abilities the higher we move and with a full day of rest tomorrow, we should only grow stronger.
The rest day won't be entirely lounging about. We are going to review some tricks of the trade for motion on the upper mountain and ready loads for our carry towards our 14,000' Camp.
So with a light snow falling onto our tents and the sound of other teams passing through camp, we say goodnight to our friends and family.
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Josh Maggard
On The Map
Looking good, Thanks for the wonderful updates and photos. B Safe and have fun! Kalispell Montana
Posted by: Jay Rocha on 6/10/2013 at 12:06 pm
Getting tremendous vicarious enjoyment from your trip! Keep up the fantastic work!!
Posted by: Nina Baj on 6/10/2013 at 11:43 am
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
A "fun" and challenging training session experienced in military training was the "heavy bag". It took the form of a duffle bag full of rocks, gravel, and sand and the goal was to pick up this bag and carry it over a specified distance. The problem was, it weighed about 120 lbs. Just getting it over a shoulder was a challenge sometimes requiring help. I used to think that the purpose of the training was to cause discomfort for the entertainment for instruction staff, but that training was very effective in helping to reframe the concept of what “heavy” actually means. This can be very useful in preparing yourself to carry a pack while mountaineering.
To fit this into your training for climbing, try picking a mid-week stair session and carry a pack which is significantly heavier than your mountain pack for an hour during the session. Exactly how much heavier you choose to make your pack is up to you. Remember to be careful not to overdo it and run the risk of hurting yourself (and be careful to not damage your pack when filling it with extra weight). As a suggestion, if your Mt. Rainier pack will weigh 35 - 40 lbs, try a session carrying 50 - 60 lbs.
Remember that the goal is not to see how much you can carry but to train with a weight that will make your regular pack lighter in comparison.
Try it out! I’d bet that the next time you shoulder your “normal” weight pack, it won’t feel so heavy and you’ll notice a spring in your step!
- John Colver
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle.
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Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
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After yesterday's carry up into the thin air of 16,000', the team is enjoying the sun and leisurely pace of a rest day here in Genet Basin. The morning started when the sun came around the ridge, thawing the tents and prying open our closed eyes from a well-earned night of sleep.
We headed over to our posh house and spent the better part of two hours making and eating blueberry pancakes with peanut butter and bacon. Movie quotes bubbled up from the crew like water from a fountain, followed by a discussion of other vacation ideas (mostly tropical). We drank hot coffee and generally continued to bond together, enjoying the calm morning.
This afternoon, we're planning to head over to a zone known as "the edge of the world," which lies about 20 minutes southwest of camp. The basin in which we're camped drops precipitously away about 5,000 vertical feet at this location, providing outlandish views of the Kahiltna Glacier, Mt Hunter, Mt Foraker, and the vast Alaskan wilderness. This light acclimatization hike will let us flush the lactic acid we accumulated yesterday, stretch sore legs, and soak up more of the beauty that surrounds us.
At day 11 on the mountain, thoughts can easily turn to the little things you miss from the lowlands - trees, birdsong, bacon cheeseburgers. But our team is still focused on the ascent, and remains mentally strong and poised to move higher yet. We'll check back in tomorrow, so don't change that channel!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the team
On The Map
Robin,
Looks like you have an amazing view from up there!. I see that the movie quotes abound up there… wonder who that could be??:) Hope you are having a great time near the top of the world looking down on all us flat landers. Can’t wait to hear the stories and see the photos. Stay safe and stay warm.
Love DAD
Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/10/2013 at 10:53 am
Sounds like things are going well and the food certainly sounds good. I’ll eat just about about anything that has bacon or peanut butter on it. How’s the weather looking? I assume you’ll be looking for that 3-day clear window before leaving 14 camp. Wish I was there with all of you.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/10/2013 at 9:38 am
Thinking of Galen and the rest of the team and hoping that Windy Corner is not too windy for your ascent, and that the weather lets you enjoy the mountain at each step along the way. Stay strong and safe. Kathleen and Bill, Arlington, VA
Posted by: Kathleen and Bill on 6/12/2013 at 6:59 pm
James and Others:
It sounds like “Miss McKinley” is making sure you appreciate what you have courageous chosen to pursue (and in due time achieve). Knowing you ... you are enjoying the challenge even more ... while becoming even more aware of your unique adventurous drive, persistence, and stamina! Please help each other stay patient, optimistic and (most importantly) safe. Best of success as you all continue to ascent!
Fred
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/12/2013 at 12:23 pm
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