RMI Expeditions Blog
Our first rotation up the hill is completed. We came down the Icefall this morning in fresh falling snow, which muffled sound, concealed crevasses and greatly reduced traffic. Normally, after three nights acclimating at Camp One, we'd have gotten up a little earlier and come down a bit sooner in the morning, but daybreak at close to 20,000 ft was a bit different this time around. We had received a foot of snow in the past 24 hours and listened to avalanches running almost constantly down the steep faces of Nuptse and Everest West Shoulder. We weren't terribly anxious to run out and test our luck at finding the path through the icefall, but a few things began to work in our favor. Although no Sherpas were breaking trail from below on such a day, a few teams at Camp One were more anxious to get down than we were. We actually contemplated sitting another day to let things settle and improve, but once a few bigger teams had plowed a trail down and a short break in the storm materialized, we decided to capitalize and descend. We packed and closed our tents up tight and began walking toward Basecamp at around 9:30 AM. It wasn't a quick descent, we were quite careful stepping through the concealing powder and onto shaky ladders as the snowstorm returned to make things interesting. We were all stunned to see that the "horseshoe hotel" had fallen. This was a massive free-standing cube of glacier which we'd been passing under with a fair amount of trepidation. It came down all at once... luckily with no one in the vicinity, and we were amazed to see that the massive chunks of debris had fallen in several directions... But they hadn't bulldozed away the climbing route. The intervening crevasses had done their work and swallowed up a whole lot of hotel. The snows kept falling and we kept working our way down in a quiet cloud. Eventually we came out from under the clouds just as we reached the less hazardous features at the bottom of the Icefall. We weren't able to do everything we wanted on this rotation; it certainly would have been nice to have hiked up and touched ABC (Camp 2) but it would have been foolish in the snowstorm, so we mostly sat in our tents yesterday... But that also can lead to good acclimatization when the tents are high enough.
Now we'll enjoy the relative comforts of Basecamp (although the snowstorm has seemed to follow us down) First; tables and chairs and food served up by the plateful... Later showers and shaves and the freedom of walking around without worry of crevasses and cliffs.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
We awoke to a fresh blanket of snow here at Everest Base Camp. That didn't slow down the Sherpa team from making a run to Camp 2 with more equipment for future forays. The snow has already melted away here but the upper mountain still shows some fresh snow.
It is great to see our climbing team get some time up high. They will return to Base Camp tomorrow but will be heading back up for another rotation soon. The pieces of the puzzle are fitting together nicely thus far.
RMI Guide & Everest Base Camp Coordinator Mark Tucker
Hey, this is RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checking in from Camp One on Mt. Everest at the bottom of the Western Cwm. All is well with the team. Dave is sitting next to me in the tent; he is checking in with Mark Tucker our Base Camp Coordinator. The team is snuggled into their tents next door. We had a good day today. We took a little walk up the Cwm toward Camp Two for a couple of hours. We inspected the route, crossed a few ladders and all in all had a good day. We came back to camp for a little afternoon relaxation. The weather has been fantastic, which means alternating between very hot and very cold, but the average temperature is pretty comfortable.
Tomorrow we will try and head up and tag Camp Two. That is right on schedule for our acclimatization and with any luck we will hit Camp Two in the morning and head on back to Camp One for our last night of this acclimatization rotation. That is it for us. Everybody is doing well. Hello to everybody at home. We will talk to you soon. Bye.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in from Camp One on Mt. Everest.
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 19,900'
Our team is all tucked in at Mt. Everest's Camp 1. Myself and Lam Babu attended an all expedition meeting to sort out details for upcoming upper mountain rope placement. In itself there is a mountain of rope to be carried up the hill. Great to see all the cooperation amongst the teams to get this job going.
Dave Hahn called in from Camp 1 after the team was settled in. Listen to his audio report below.
RMI Guides Mark Tucker and Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from Camp 1.
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
We were all keyed up and ready to climb last night. Dinner was eaten with a sense of purpose, figuring we'd burn thousands of calories going up the Khumbu Icefall and living at Camp One. Each climber turned in carefully, arranging every piece of gear just so for a cold pre-dawn start. And we were up at 4 AM getting boots tied and helmets on when the word came down of a collapse in the middle of the Icefall. We could then see the parade of Sherpa headlights in the lower half of the Icefall... all going the wrong way. Down. Chherring and Gyalgen from our own team had radioed down to say that the route was impassible and that the midsection of the climb would need special attention -new ladders and fixed rope- from the Icefall Doctors. The coffee was hot and our pre-climb breakfast of boiled eggs and porridge was on, so we sat down together anyway and tried to get used to the idea that we weren't going up. No great physical and mental test to pass after all. Until tomorrow. It was with an odd mix of emotions that we each then went back to bed for a few hours. The next time we rose and had breakfast, around 8 AM, a thin blanket of fresh snow had somehow fallen on the tents. It was calm and sunny and the Icefall was unnaturally free of visible climber traffic. After this breakfast, we took our smartphones out to the medial moraine to connect with the world and to read the sad news coming from Boston. We then took a quiet hike down glacier, pioneering our way back across through the gleaming pinnacles of ice until we could reach the well-traveled lateral moraine that is the main foot/hoof path into Basecamp. We passed teams in mid-Puja and tent after tent after tent and basecamp after basecamp... everybody is here now. We don't actually know the number of climbers assembled, but it must be another record season from the looks of things. Most eyes today were focused upward and hopes were pinned on the Ice Docs finding some new way through the heart of the glacier.
We'll try again tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Glad all is well. Thanks for the updates. Hope you guys are keeping warm, staying healthy and working a good strategy to climb among the masses. I have no doubt you are the smartest team up there! Hey, the Ice Doctors seem to be advertising that fact on their helmets, right?
Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/17/2013 at 8:44 pm
Wow! wonderful trip, All the best team
Posted by: ELIAZA MMBAGA (ELLY) on 4/17/2013 at 5:45 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
Mark Tucker here at Everest Basecamp (EBC). Home away from home. I recently completed an Everest Basecamp Trek and Island Peak climb. Always a pleasure to share this amazing place with adventure travelers. I had a great time. Hope the return home for my team went smooth. Thank you all.
Back at EBC, I am settling in. Getting organized is always a bit of work but much appreciated as our team's prepare for the rotations to the upper camps. Now that the organizing is done, I opened up the local grocery store for the team. They went shopping for their food to be consumed at Camp 1 on their upcoming nights. They plan to head full force thru the Icefall in the early AM, looking at three nights on the hill. The team looks great, ready to get into meat of the climb. We did take time out to build the horseshoe pits and get in a couple games. Burrito night tonight. A favorite meal here at EBC.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Happy and safe trekking. Blessings.
ABQ Uptown #985 NM/AZ/CO
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 4/17/2013 at 8:28 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
We're on a well-deserved rest day today at Basecamp. Yesterday we did our last turn up in the Khumbu Icefall before we push on to Camp 1. The cool and cloudy weather we've been having is supposed to clear with light winds so that should work in our favor.
Dave went up to Camp 1 this morning with our Sherpa crew to get our camp location dialed in. Once we pick a day, we'll head on up for our first rotation.
Here's a photo I snapped in the 'popcorn' section of the Icefall yesterday.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
I always look forward to these postings from Everest - Be safe and good luck to the climbing team!
Posted by: Bill Bohn on 4/17/2013 at 8:31 am
Thanks for these postings. Best of luck in the days ahead.
Posted by: Bill Horn on 4/15/2013 at 8:31 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Fit to Climb: Week 11 Schedule
BRIEFING
This week’s weekend hike is 6 hours and your Day 2 stair workout will bump up to 4 sets of the 1-2-3 Stair Workout. Be sure to stay focused on your sleep and food intake this week, you’ll be burning a lot of energy and you want to give your body the rest and fuel it needs to recover from these workouts!
DESCRIPTIONS OF WORKOUTS
Day 1: Rainier Dozen + Easy Hiking (30 Minutes)
Today’s hike is a recovery workout and you can always substitute it with a different activity, such as running, biking or swimming. The important thing is to move at a moderate pace for 30 to 45 minutes. The pace can be conversational and you do not need to be dripping with sweat at the end of the workout.
Day 2: Stair Interval Training: The 1-2-3 Workout
Warm up with some moderate paced stair climbing. Then, make three efforts: one moderately hard, one very hard, and one close to maximal effort, with rest periods in between. This may look like:
• 2 minutes at 50-65% intensity, followed by 3 minutes of rest (1 minute standing, 2 minutes descending)
• 2 minutes at 65-80% intensity, followed by 3 minutes of rest
• 2 minutes at 85-90% intensity, followed by 3 minutes of rest
Repeat this sequence four times.
Day 3: Rainier Dozen / Rest
Begin your day with the Rainier Dozen. Feel free to take another 30 to 60 minutes of light exercise if you feel like it (a brisk walk is a great option). If you feel tired, today is a good opportunity be good to take a complete rest day instead. Listen to your body.
Day 4: Rainier Dozen + Stair Interval Training (50 Minutes)
After the Rainier Dozen, warm up for about 10 minutes, and then climb up and down a set of stairs, at a consistent pace, for about 40 to 50 minutes. Cool down with some stretching. You don’t need to carry a pack on your stair interval training, the focus in this workout is on speed and intensity.
Day 5: Rainier Dozen / Rest
Begin your day with the Rainier Dozen. Feel free to take another 30 to 60 minutes of light exercise if you feel like it (a brisk walk is a great option). If you feel tired, today is a good opportunity be good to take a complete rest day instead. Listen to your body.
Day 6: Rainier Dozen / Cross Training (60 mins)
Warm up with the Rainier Dozen and then spend an hour in some moderately vigorous activity as cross training (find out more about cross training here). Listen to your body, and have fun with it.
Day 7: 6 Hour Hike (15 pounds of weight)
Warm up with the Rainier Dozen, and then hike for 6 hours, or about 10 - 12 miles. Be sure to hike at an even pace. Be sure to prepare yourself for this hike. It may require extra food and water and ensure that your socks are comfortable and your feet are well taken care of. Consider taking an extra pair of socks to change later in the day if your feet are tired or wet.
SUMMARY
It’s normal to feel that you are pushing the limits with this week’s workouts. You are ... and you’ll do well to let friends and family know that this is an important time for you. Remember that during this phase you are intentionally going to the edge which means that you are taking risks. Peak training requires meticulous attention to restoration and recovery. This is not a time to be burning the candle at both ends. Ample sleep, quality food and good relaxation are your allies when you challenge your body like this. But, the benefits are worth it!
- John Colver
Have a question? See the Fit To Climb FAQ for explanations of specific exercises and general pointers to help you through the Fit To Climb Program.
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
| DAY | WORKOUT | TOTAL TIME | DIFFICULTY |
| 1 | Rainier Dozen / Easy Hiking ( 30 min) | 42 min. | Medium |
| 2 | 1-2-3 Stair Workout x 4 | 72 min. | Very Hard |
| 3 | Rainier Dozen / Rest | 12 min. | Recovery |
| 4 | Rainier Dozen / High Intensity Stair Interval Training (50 min) | 62 min. | Very Hard |
| 5 | Rainier Dozen / Rest | 12 min. | Recovery |
| 6 | Rainier Dozen / Cross Training | 60 min. | Medium |
| 7 | Rainier Dozen / Hike (6 hrs, 15 pounds of pack weight) | 372 min. | Medium |
| Total | 10 hrs 32 mins |
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
Dress Rehearsal Day. We were up at 4 AM, breakfasting by 4:15 and throwing on our packs about an hour later. By the time we were getting our crampons on, it was just lit enough that we no longer needed the headlights. The goal today was a "practice run" up to the midway point of the Khumbu Icefall route. We were lucky in that there was very little traffic on the route this morning. Blame that on the New Year's observances, I suppose, but it all worked well for us. We moved up through the "first ladders" area and then up the steep and airy "popcorn" section. The word last week was that the route had initially been established with only one ladder... but without a doubt we went up and over at least fifteen ladders to the halfway mark. The glacier is on the move, with the route consequently changing a little every day. We had a quick snack in the morning shadows at the "Dum" short for the "gear dump" which used to be a halfway camp and or gear staging area in the mid point of the Icefall. Then it was down... carefully, since every cramponed boot needed to be placed exactly to avoid drop offs and crevasses. We did quick arm rappels down one little ice wall after another until we were able to get down below the first ladders and out of the zone where we were endangered by ice over our heads and voids under our feet. Life got better then. We were back to Basecamp for lunch and afternoon naps.
In the afternoon, the sky clouded up and it appeared to be snowing on the upper halves of all the big peaks. At three I went to the first meeting of team leaders. It was something of a reunion since everybody there was an Everest repeat offender. We tried to hammer out a few details about radio frequencies and placements for rescue gear, among other things.
It turned into a good afternoon for hiding in tents, but that was fine. We did good outside work in the morning.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Dan, I forgot to mention, you are an inspiration. All the best to you and your team on this trek.
Alex and Cheryl Coffey.
Posted by: Alex Coffey on 4/17/2013 at 9:02 pm
Great updates for the trek. Wonderful pictures. Dan, your living the dream! Alex and Cheryl Coffey.
Posted by: Alex Coffey on 4/17/2013 at 8:57 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
Rest day for our entire team today. The Sherpas were certainly entitled to one after their big day going to Camp II and back. And for the rest of us, it has been several days back-to-back of hikes and training. Time to slow it down, catch up on food, hydration and rest. And of course, hygiene. Today was shower day... we've got a little on-demand propane burning water heater rigged up on a shower tent that does the trick nicely. Not every day, of course, because propane isn't exactly naturally occurring in this valley, and because getting water just where you want it to be is rather labor intensive, as well. But every now and then it is oh so nice to get clean again.
Just before lunch, Mark Tucker made it into camp, fresh from Island Peak and another full circuit of the route to Lukla. So with our Basecamp manager on scene, the entire team is now assembled.
The climbers are getting gear ready for a "dress rehearsal" in the Icefall tomorrow, a practice run to the halfway point. The Sherpas are getting ready for a holiday... Nepali New Year tomorrow. To help with the festive atmosphere, Seth and I gave out brand new RMI uniform gear: Eddie Bauer First Ascent climbing clothing for the staff.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Really sweet and the best of luck!
Posted by: Larry leetzow on 4/13/2013 at 1:29 pm
Hi Dan & the team. We continue to follow your journey. Have a safe climb. Cheers to all of you!
Posted by: Jerry & Ann & Michelle on 4/23/2013 at 9:16 am
Great guiding. So many fine details, yet you all seem to have it under control. Blessings for a safe summit and return.
ABQ Uptown #985 NM/AZ/CO
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 4/19/2013 at 10:16 am
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