RMI Expeditions Blog
The clouds around Vinson basecamp lifted some today, but didn't go away. In particular they were stuck over the Nimitz Glacier and the approaches for an airplane trying to get into the Branscomb. There was some optimism this morning, what with blue sky over camp and Vinson's summit visible again, but it never quite got good enough to tempt the Twin Otters in from Union. Eventually they gave up on us and flew back to the South Pole to pick up more centenerary celebrants. That being a long round trip, our next window of opportunity to fly from Vinson would be tomorrow afternoon. We passed the day easily and quietly. TA, Vlado, Mindy and I went for a glacier walk in the afternoon to stretch legs. In the evening the ALE crew generously hosted a dinner for the three climbing teams. The food was superb... And we were all just plain happy to sit in real chairs for a time.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
A very pleasant day of walking up the Vacas Valley put our team at Casa de Piedra, the last camp before basecamp. The team is doing very well, enjoying the meditative beauty of this walk. We had just enough cloud and wind to keep the heat at bay and still have a stunning first view of the mountain as we rolled into camp. Tomorrow we'll get closer still and say goodbye to our trusty mules and take the loads from then on. But not without a rest day to set ourselves up for success.
Buenas noches,
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Hey everybody, this is Casey from RMI checking in from the Cotopaxi Express Ascent. We are currently on the summit of Cotopaxi with everyone! We are 100% today. It was a tough climb and took just over 7 and a half hours. A little bit of new snow, definitely some slow going. Everyone did fantastic. Not too much of a view right now. We're actually up here in the clouds and can’t really see much other than our little faces. Everybody is doing well. Our plan is to take a few photos up here and then start back to the hut. We will check in a little later on today.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
RMI Guide Casey Grom calls from the summit of Cotopaxi!
Congrats Everyone, I am not a big fan of climbing but I was excited to watch you ascend to the Summit and learned that it is truly a team sport. Good work and enjoy the next day relaxing. Love you, Billy C
Posted by: Sue Campbell on 12/17/2011 at 12:48 pm
Congratulations Michael! Stay safe!
Posted by: Betsy Moore on 12/16/2011 at 7:16 pm
Hello everybody back home, this is Casey Grom checking in from the RMI Cotopaxi trip. We wanted to let you know that we're all here just below 16000’ at the Cotopaxi hut. We had a nice morning, a great breakfast with some eggs, cereal and yogurt and a nice relaxing start to the day. We went for a short walk, about 45 minutes, up to where we could access the glacier. We spent about 2 hours reviewing some of the techniques that are going to be applicable for tonight's climb.
Everyone seems to be doing great. The weather's been a bit in and out today, some snow and a little bit of light rain. And currently we are kind of socked in a cloud but not much precipitation. The team has just finished dinner and we had a little pre- summit climb chat. Everyone is off to bed right now. So, our plan is to try to get up and leave about 12:30 and hopefully will reach the summit just after sunrise. If we get the opportunity we will try to give a call from the summit. And if not, we will certainly give a call as soon as we return back to the hut. Thanks for following, and we will talk to you guys later on.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
RMI Guide Casey Grom checks in from 16,000' on Cotopaxi.
Another day drifting in the Vinson Basecamp milk bottle, surrounded by whiteness. Except it was fun. The RMI team competed in a snow sculpture contest with the New Zealand team and the German Team today. TA built a Canadian living room replica, complete with couch, fireplace, TV and maple leaf. Then she joined Mindy and I in constructing a team of sled dogs pulling a sled and a towering and imposing Amundson, arriving at the Pole. We'll concede that he was so massive that his dog team appeared to be composed of puppies, rabbits and squirrels. The German guide, Reigner, built an impressive titanic replica. Vlado made snow angels inside his tent. After dinner the ALE staff judged the artwork and found each and every climber to be deserving of a cold beverage. Twenty of us, from 11 countries, sat in the basecamp headquarters tent for that beverage and a fine custard desert and received the good news that the ALE Twin Otters had just departed South Pole bound for Union Glacier. If our weather shapes up by morning, things could start happening fast. Or not. We shall see.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Wishing you sunny day tomorrow! Enjoy hte rest of this moment Vlado, it will never come back same way.
Talk to you soon
Maria
Posted by: maria on 12/16/2011 at 11:00 pm
Enjoy the moment Mindy - such a fantastic experience & result!
We’re missing you here at home!
Love dean
Posted by: dean on 12/16/2011 at 10:14 am
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Guide News
RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos organized a team of RMI Guides to climb Tibet’s Shishapangma (26, 289'), the world’s 14th highest mountain. The team reached the summit on October 11th & 12th. We sat down with Elías after the expedition to chat with him about the climb.
RMI: What first inspired you to climb Shishapangma?
Elías: I had been hoping to go climb an 8,000 meter peak for awhile. When you have that in your head and you have never been to the Himalayas, at first it looks like any peak - if the opportunity arose - would suffice. For the last couple of years, the objective was looking closer and closer, and the deeper research started. Initially I wanted to climb Dhaulagiri, as it was the dream of one of my mentors who never could do it. But I was determined to go this past fall and it turns out that Dhaulagiri is not the best for the post monsoon season, so I started to look at other mountains. Shishapangma seemed beautiful, rising alone on the Tibetan plateau. Easy access played a key role, as it also diminished the cost. And of course, it offered a relatively "easy" and "safe" line for this, our first, 8000 meter peak.
RMI: Organizing an expedition to an 8000 meter Himalayan peak is a major undertaking, what were some of the biggest challenges you faced in simply getting the expedition off of the ground?
Elías: Of course the budget is the main undertaking. It is fairly expensive, particularly when one does it pretty much out of pocket. (We have to thank RMI's indispensable Guide Grant and First Ascent's gear support.) This challenge leads to the difficulty of building a team as well; initially, along with my wife Bridget, I had this trip planned with my two good climbing friends from Spain, but getting 2 months off of work in addition to the funding, made it impossible for them to participate, so I had to start with 0 climbers just 6 months prior to the trip, when everything was logistically planned. Luckily, working for RMI made it easy to "collect" good friends for the expedition. Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank, and Leon Davis were memorable companions. Ironically, the logistics were fairly easy, thanks to the internet and to Nima, our great contact in the Himalayas.
RMI: How did your previous climbing and guiding experience prepare you for the climbing and organizational challenges of the expedition?
Elías: That experience was probably a good 50% of the success of the trip. Having been on expeditions in other parts of the world is a great help that teaches you how to quickly act when facing problems or difficult situations, whether logistics or interactions with the local people. You come up with solutions or new plans on the go and deal with it.
The climbing and guiding experience among all of us on the team was definitely another great plus. Without much talking, we know what you have to do in different situations and the flow of the climb is as smooth as it can be as a result. Being a professional in the field, that usually works towards helping others achieve this goals, makes you have a greater temper on decision making too.
RMI: What was your impression of the Himalayas?
Elías: What can I say? It is the biggest mountain range in the World!!! Shishapangma sits alone in Tibet and unfortunately we drove to the trailhead from Kathmandu with clouds [covering the mountains], so we could not see much at first. When we all saw the mountain for the first time at Chinese Base Camp at sunrise, we were like little kids on Christmas day in front of Santa's gifts - so excited. But at the same time you acknowledge the magnitude of the mountain and get those butterflies in your stomach.
I was lucky to have some time afterwards to explore the Annapurna-Dhaulagiri and the Solu Khumbu regions of Nepal, where the concentration of mountains is greater and the steepness of their walls grows exponentially...I have no words to describe what I felt there.
RMI: Give us a glimpse into your daily routine on a long expedition like this...
Elías: Wake up, breathe. Eat breakfast and come up with a plan, breath. Climb or rest, breathe. Try to have a hearty dinner, breathe...sleep. Start over.
RMI: Do you have a favorite memory or moment from the trip you can share?
Elías: Of course the summit. We made it to the Central Summit of Shishapangma at 8013 meters. I cried. I am very sentimental at points and being able to give a hug to my wife and two good friends up there after pursuing such a long dream is indescribable.
RMI: Any advice for climbers that have aspire to climb in the Himalayas one day?
Elías: Go for it. I think that such an undertaking requires determination. If there is a will there is a way and money and time to do it will materialize. Train for it and learn the skills that are necessary to do it. Be determined with your dream and with what it requires. And if you do not climb on your own, climb with a good guide, like the ones of RMI!!!
RMI: What is next for you?
Elías: As far as guiding goes, anything where I can help RMI clients. As I am shifting towards being more of a full time guide, I am very thankful for the opportunities RMI is giving me. I’m headed to Aconcagua (*Elías is currently on Aconcagua) and I am looking forward to the remainder of the winter with the ice climbing programs.
Personally, I have big ice and mixed climbing projects for this winter-spring locally here in Colorado and in the Canadian Rockies. Since the Himalayan bug has bitten me, I have to admit that plans for Dhaulagiri are "in the oven".
Congrat’s Elias and Bridgette!
Posted by: Ryan Aldrich on 12/16/2011 at 7:38 am
The mules are loaded and the team is ready to go. Today we start the adventure on Aconcagua with our approach up the Vacas valley. Clear skies, pleasant temps and a healthy team all sound like a great way to begin an expedition. Talk to ya'll from the mountain.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Go Katie and Adam! I hope you are having an amazing time!
Posted by: Jenna on 12/16/2011 at 5:04 pm
Great climb!! You are always heros in our eyes. Wish we could be with you (well, at least Rosston and I). Good luck on the balance of your trip. We look forward to your tales and pictures.
Love,
Steve, Judy & Rosston
Posted by: steve sherlock on 12/16/2011 at 11:44 am
Not so much to report today besides a good brunch and a fine dinner. Thick fog and cloud blanketed Vinson basecamp for much of the day. This made things predictably cool outside the tents and it was difficult to walk anywhere without feeling a touch of vertigo in the all-encompassing white-out. No news about the availability of aircraft either. Obviously not an urgent matter with the clouds glued into the Branscomb Glacier. Still, Vlado, TA, Mindy and I all enjoyed the day and will always remember where we were for the South Pole centennial.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Following you closly Vlado, thanks to Dave’s exelent reporting. Amazing,amazing, father is watching over you and we all are very proud of your achievments.
Stay safe for the rest of the expedition.
Cheers Maria, Lumir a Patrick
Posted by: Maria on 12/15/2011 at 10:34 am
So proud of you Mindy. thinking about you everyday and your achievement. Can’t wait to see all the glorious pictures. You stay safe and know you are in our thoughts. Missing you - but happy you are enjoying the challenge and sights. Love, Suz xoxo
Posted by: suzanne de maio on 12/15/2011 at 5:59 am
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Hello everybody back home, this is Casey Grom checking in from the Cotopaxi Express Ascent. Today we left the busy city of Quito and traded in for a little rustic countryside visit. We did a short acclimatization hike on the Illinizas where we reached just over 15,500’. Everybody did fantastic and we even got to use our gore-tex jackets with fresh snow falling on us today. We have since descended and have retreated to the Hacienda Chilcabamba where we have just finished a delicious meal and great conversation. Everyone seems to be doing really well and everyone's relaxing right now inside. We are looking forward to some clear skies tomorrow and a nice view of Cotopaxi.
That's all for now and we will check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
RMI Guide Casey Grom checks in from Ecuador.
Great job guys! I wish I were there to celebrate with you. It was great to meet all the guys on the climb & Casey & Adam.
Posted by: Rejan on 12/16/2011 at 8:25 am
GO BILLY!!! So proud of you! We will be praying for you and your team that you all may have a SAFE expedition!!!
Posted by: The Terry's on 12/16/2011 at 8:19 am
Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Hello everyone,
Our team has arrived in Mendoza excited and ready to start our Aconcagua adventure!
After finishing up our permits, grabbing the last minute supplies at the grocery store and gear shops, we are ready to head out of town. It is a beautiful day here in Mendoza and should make for a great drive to Penitentes where we will ready our gear for the mules and have one last night of Argentine cuisine before switching to the equally appealing mountain cuisine that will fuel our climb.
Tomorrow we will leave civilization for a few weeks and start the climb. Wish us luck everyone and stay tuned as we work our way up this beautiful mountain.
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens
Hey Rich! Checking in every other day & thinking of you always. Have an amazing time & send me a postcard from the top!! Stef
Posted by: Stef on 12/18/2011 at 11:09 pm
Dave G. Thinking of you constantly, have a good and safe climb. Love you.
Posted by: Connie on 12/16/2011 at 1:36 pm
Hi Katie and Adam, Happy Holidays!!!! I can’t imagine all the beauty and awsome sites your seeing. Hope all is going well, Stay safe and enjoy. :)
Posted by: Heidi on 12/26/2011 at 5:33 pm
Katie and Adam, that’s awesome. 16,000 ft. The highest I got was about 14,000, and only on a chairlift. Scenery must be fantastic.
Good luck and have a wonderful holiday.
Frank
Posted by: Frank Hui on 12/20/2011 at 1:28 pm
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