We had a near perfect day to make our carry to Camp 1 (16,200'). Waking early to beat the heat, we bumped a load of food and equipment a few thousand feet higher on the mountain. This will allow us to move to Camp 1 with reasonable weight so that we aren't too spent by the time we get there. The team managed the carry well today and our plan is to patiently rest tomorrow and recover for our upcoming rotation up high. Another day to build our acclimatization so that when we move higher we are prepared for the effort to climb this beautiful mountain.
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
Hearing your voice today warmed my heart. Your girl is very proud of you and she is counting the days until you summit and return home. I love you baby. 143
Sherri
Posted by: Sherri on 12/28/2013 at 2:38 pm
Bill and Team! WOW! I have been enjoying watching this trek from afar. You’ll have the best stories to tell. Onward and upward!
Buenos Dias from Plaza Argentina! Today the team is enjoying a well earned rest day after long stretches of travel and three big days of walking. After breakfast we took a leisurely stroll to get the blood flowing and had a soup for lunch. Now mid siesta, we will spend the afternoon packing for our carry to Camp One tomorrow and going through our cursory check with the Base Camp doctors. It's definitely another hot one and we may be in for an early carry tomorrow to try and beat some of the heat. Hope everyone is doing well back home!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Well since I’m clueless about mountain climbing I assumed you be climbing all the time and now I see walking and hiking are part of the adventure…and heat! Cool…well I mean hot. Have fun be safe; we’re all looking forward to hearing about this adventure, Bill. Breakfast Club via Dav’ne
Posted by: Dav'ne Stahley on 12/27/2013 at 9:20 am
Great to hear your voice. I keep reading of 100-degree weather in Buenes Aires—surely, it can’t be that hot up above!?! Power on, team.
Christmas came early today, but instead of reindeer we mounted mules and forded the mighty Vacas river at dawn. Then we made our way up the Relinchos valley, gaining the most elevation of the trip so far. The team did great moving up this Tatooine like landscape underneath ten thousand feet of mighty Aconcagua visual splendor. It was a beautiful walk and and excellent way to spend the holiday. Knowing we've got a rest day coming up doesn't hurt either!
Pulling into Basecamp we were greeted by the familiar faces of friends from Christmas' past, Ana and Griselda our hostesses with the mostesses who made an excellent dinner to celebrate our arrival. After a spectacular sunset the team has turned in for a well earned night of rest.
Merry Christmas and Happy Festivas from all of us here in the Andes!
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Mike King & Steve Gately
Greetings from our first camp! Today we launched from Las Penitentes and began our approach to Base Camp. Walking along the Vacas River, we wound our way up the valley to Pampa de Llenas for another round of chats with the Guardalparque (rangers) and the pitching of our first camp. The team did well today, managing very warm temps and not getting too over cooked along the way. Tomorrow we will try to get out early and head to Casa de Piedra (House of Rock!) for our next camp. Til then!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
A big hola from Mendoza! The team is assembled in this summery land, all bags ready to go and all our paperwork complete with crossed t's and dotted lower case j's. Now all that remains is to start this Aconcagua adventure by loading up and heading into the mountains. Tonight we will have our last meal at a proper table for a few days and start our walk in tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guides Jake Beren, Mike King and Steve Gately
Hola Mi Amigo Jake , excited for you guys looking to be a great trekk,
weather looks good. Enjoy each step as you go for a nice walk.
Keep an eye on Bill hes a trouble maker so ive heard. Looking forward to seeing some more post and pictures. Randy
October marks the end of the guiding season on Rainier, and the beginning of some of the best rock climbing weather and conditions throughout the Rocky Mountain West. RMI guides Steve Gately, Robby Young and Sean Collon celebrated "Rocktober" this year by spending their time down in Indian Creek near Moab, Utah. “The Creek” is home to some of the best pure crack climbing in the world, with fissures ranging from too small for fingers up to chimneys large enough for your entire body; running a hundred feet up otherwise featureless sandstone walls. It attracts climbers from around the world and is a popular hangout for guides in the October off-season. Sean, Steve and Robby documented their time in The Creek through film, and recount their experiences:
Robby Young: There is no place like Indian Creek. The abundance of stunning cracks splitting through vertical sandstone walls appear otherworldly amongst the beautiful desert landscape of Southern Utah, located just a few hours from my home in Park City, UT. I was very excited to have the opportunity to spend some time in this wonderful place with some good friends, and fellow RMI guides. The vibrancy of the red rock offers a dramatic contrast to the snow and glacier covered landscape of Mt. Rainier in which we spend much of our summer. I was also lucky to be able shoot photographs and capture film of some of friends as they pushed their climbing skills in the never-ending pursuit to become better climbers and alpinists.
Sean Collon: Rock climbing and mountaineering have a large number of common skills, techniques and physical requirements. Approaching rock climbs with heavy packs full of gear builds stamina, and the climbing itself requires total body strength; all of which contributes to success in the big mountains. When guiding, or on personal mountaineering trips, I rely heavily on the rope skills I have developed largely in the vertical world of rock climbing. But more than all of this, rock climbing, in and of itself, is fun. Like any type of climbing, it is physically and mentally demanding. It can be pure enjoyment, often scary and painful, but always tremendously rewarding.
Steve Gately: After a busy Rainier season, trips like this provide us with some welcomed vacation time, while also allowing us a great opportunity for continued training. With back-to-back trips to Aconcagua coming up this winter, keeping my skills sharp is important to me. One aspect that goes consistently overlooked is not only the mental capacity but also the situational awareness needed for such long expeditions. For me, rock climbing is a way to keep my assessment skills sharp. There is some inherent risk in rock climbing, similarly to anytime that we step out into the mountains. This requires you to be constantly assessing situations, risk, hazards, terrain etc. This level of awareness is invaluable. You can be as strong as the best climbers out there, but without that ability to constantly assess your surroundings and problem solve when needed, well, you won't last very long in the mountains. For me, as a guide, this is one of the most important contributions I can bring to my trips and rock climbing provides an excellent way to stay strong, keep my skills sharp, and have a ton of fun while doing it!
______
Robby Young is as talented on rock as he is on glaciers and skis. He is spending the winter ski patrolling and teaching several avalanche courses in Utah and planning on a ski trip to Iceland this spring before his Denali expedition. See more of Robby's photography at www.robbyyoungphotography.com.
Sean Collon is an RMI guide, originally from Michigan, spending this winter season in Utah ski instructing at Canyons Resort and training for the AMGA Rock and Ski Instructor Courses. He has climbed rock and alpine routes all around the Pacific Northwest and throughout the country, and guiding with Dave Hahn next summer on Mt. McKinley.
Steve Gately is heading to the southern hemisphere this winter to guide on Aconcagua. Returning to Park City, UT, he will be found skiing, ice climbing and working on another short film about backcountry skiing in Utah's Wasatch Range before heading north to Alaska next summer.
Great clip! I had the honor of attending a fundraiser last night (Golden,CO) for Jeff Lowe’s “Metanoia” movie. One of the items they were auctioning off was a 3 day climb at “The Creek” with Jim Donini! Jim was there and personally offered the trip. As you can imagine, it went for a nice high bid!!
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Solveig Waterfall reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported clear weather with a cap on the summit, and the new route via Camp Comfort great to climb. The teams spent some time on the summit and are now en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Our Five Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and JJ Justman reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team reported fair weather with winds of about 15mph and a cap on the top of the mountain. The teams spent some time on the summit and are now on their way back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations Brent, JJ, and teams on the first summit of our 2013 Mt. Rainer climbing season!
Thanks again to JJ and Brent as well as all the other guides for a great climb! So glad to be a member of the first summit team of the season! You guys are truly amazing and I had a wonderful experience with RMI!
Paul
Hearing your voice today warmed my heart. Your girl is very proud of you and she is counting the days until you summit and return home. I love you baby. 143
Sherri
Posted by: Sherri on 12/28/2013 at 2:38 pm
Bill and Team! WOW! I have been enjoying watching this trek from afar. You’ll have the best stories to tell. Onward and upward!
Posted by: Dav'ne on 12/28/2013 at 10:57 am
View All Comments