Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team to the Edge of the World

July 11, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Another unwelcome pulse of moisture and wind came through in the night. The wind was far more significant than the new snow as it worked to slab up the substantial snowfall we'd already gotten on the steep walls above. While things died down and the sun showed up on time this morning, it didn't take very long for folks to realize we'd suffered a setback in the snow stability department. But there wasn't so much that could be done to change that reality and so we made the best of things. We geared up, roped up and took a hike to the edge of the world, which is what everybody calls the rocks a short distance from camp that mark the edge of the 14,200 ft basin we're in. From that edge one can look straight down thousands of vertical feet to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Except we could not, due to clouds and murk, and plowing through above the knee powder made it feel like a little more than a short distance away. We went for the workout and to keep our minds focused on climbing during this big delay. And that seemed to work nicely for us. One could sense the great drop-off and the immensity of Denali's South Face lurking in the clouds. Back at camp, we did more of the things we've already been doing so well... eating, drinking, resting, chatting and watching the snowy slopes above when the clouds permit. What we really need is a few hot, very sunny, stable days to settle the snow. Several of the teams surrounding us in camp were running low on food and fuel and could wait no more. They began their descent of the mountain as we were sitting down to dinner. Things actually cleared up quite nicely about then with calm, blue skies above and a thick sea of clouds below us stretching to all horizons. It may be a tricky situation but it remains beautiful. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Hey Mark,
I am really enjoying your trip from sunny Denver!!! Mary and I have been walking everyday! I sure hope the weather cooperates with you. I can’t wait to hear all about your trip! ENJOY! Dorothy

Posted by: Dorothy on 7/12/2012 at 7:16 am

Will, I wish I could send you some heat from the glassblowing furnace…the campers are working in the 90’s ea. day. I am just a big salt lick for Nicki when I get home at night. Stay safe! Love you. Jenny and CaliRose

Posted by: Jennifer on 7/12/2012 at 6:47 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Waiting for Stability

July 10, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

We all thought it was a little colder than predictions called for last night. It might have been as low as 10 below zero Fahrenheit, but that is just a guess. But that would have been because the sky finally cleared. It was clear through much of the morning and early afternoon, but nobody went climbing. There are perhaps eight or ten groups here at 14,200 ft, between guided and smaller non-guided teams, but all of us shared a great respect for the new fallen snow and its need to settle. Neither the teams that are throwing in the towel and looking to go down, nor those of us that are looking to go up, want to get impatient and get avalanched. So we took it easy today and hoped that the sun would shine hard enough to heat up the snow and settle the hazard. We watched the last National Park Service Ranger Patrol of the season work with their B3 helicopter for a good chunk of the day to sling load all of their equipment and personnel out of camp and off the hill. My gang practiced the techniques we plan to employ for getting up the "fixed ropes" on the steep terrain between 15,000 and 16,200 ft. We also built a new walled latrine with all of the modern conveniences. And we waited. Patiently. We received a bunch more great messages from the blog (they were relayed to us as we don't actually surf the web up here) and those produced plenty of smiles and laughter. Thank You. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Richard,
In this morning’s devotion..sending prayers & optimism
your way. Silver linings in the clouds are not hard
to find, on the way to dreams coming true. Warmth & perfect weather from
the center of the heart of a Santa Barbara girl is yours. One step at a time….
SOUL, Denise:.

Posted by: denise:. on 7/12/2012 at 7:17 am

Mark, what an adventure. So proud of you and the Team. Keep that sun tan lotion on. Stay safe. Bill

Posted by: Bill Hill on 7/11/2012 at 6:36 pm

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Mt. Rainier: July 10th Summit!

July 10, 2012

Posted by: Ben Liken, Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Seth Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just after 7 am PT with 100% of their team! They reported light winds from the south and blue skies. The Five Day Kautz Glacier Climb led by Jason Thompson also reached the summit this morning. They started their descent from the crater rim just after 7 a.m. The team will return to their High Camp for their final night on the mountain. Congratulations to today's teams!

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Hey Wilder and Dink and your team - Wow! We look forward to hearing all the stories! Yes!!

Posted by: Beth Morningstar on 7/10/2012 at 8:37 am

Great job Wayne, Phil, Brennan and Scott. Can’t wait to hear all about it. Cheers!

Posted by: Barbara Johnson on 7/10/2012 at 8:35 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team - Shoveling Clients, Sleeping Guides

July 8, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Plenty of snow came down overnight and throughout the day. The team did a great job getting out in the night to dig out tents, despite the mean winds that made the morning a bit rough. By about 10 AM though, winds were lessening and we were able to have a group breakfast in the rebuilt POSH tent. Walking even a few steps out of camp, one was generally up to mid-thigh in the new snow... meaning we didn't walk out of camp much. We let it snow. We rested. We read. We chatted. We passed time and then we ate dinner. The eight o'clock weather forecast was eagerly anticipated and it actually gave some reason for optimism this time. We were told that the snows would fade this evening and that tomorrow (Monday) wouldn't be half bad. And that is good. We need a day that includes a bit of sun to settle the avalanche hazard surrounding us. As we came out from dinner and prepared camp for another night of storm, we were pleased to get a break. The sun appeared (briefly) and we were able to see the entire West Buttress and South Peak and even a splash of blue sky overhead. Perhaps it was the new snow covering everything or maybe it was because we hadn't had much scenery at all to look at lately, but we found the view to be breathtaking and brilliant. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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ive been thinking about how this whole pursuit of mountain tops ... and how in it (and elsewhere) you never leave yourself to waiting ... for anything ... except the snow, now, but you seem to have settled your piece with nature and i expect she’ll oblige and i suppose its less like waiting when you’ve keenly nestled yourself so high above sanity

perhaps this is one the moments when you ask yourself ‘why’ ? ... this seems unlikely to

... did i mention im envious of your adventure ?

Posted by: jessica on 7/10/2012 at 10:04 pm

Dr K
Should be another good workout in “thigh deep” powder going up. Our thoughts are with you. Good luck.

Posted by: Blackie on 7/10/2012 at 5:53 am

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Waiting at Basecamp

July 8, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

At 3:30 this morning I was startled awake by what I thought was the rumbling of a distant avalanche. Perhaps my mountain senses have an automatic alertness to these deep thunderous roars that will pull me from the deepest sleep. As I poked my head out of the tent door, I remembered where we are. Two days ago I broke the news to the team that a serious storm was brewing and the risk of staying at high camp, in my opinion, outweighed the reward of a potential summit. Going for the top on Monday or Tuesday would put our total time there at eight or nine days, well beyond anyone's preference. So we packed camp with heavy hearts and set off on our descent. We moved efficiently down to eleven thousand feet where we rested for six hours. The alarm went off at 5:00 am to no one's delight and we headed toward basecamp at 7:30. By 3:00 pm we were drinking MGD and relaxing in the sun. K2 aviation was optimistic about flying us off so morale, all things considered, was high. That was until one hour later the clouds moved in and it began to to snow. That was more than 24 hours ago. Now as I write this at 4 pm on Sunday, we have received two feet of snow. Welcome to Mt. McKinley! We have all just come in for lunch after two solid hours stomping down the runway so if the storm does abate, planes might fly. This is all we hope for now, the high pitch sound of propellers and don't think twice about those avalanches in the distance. This is Adam Knoff signing out.

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Thnx to all for your comments & thoughts—it meant alot to us all up there.
Even though we didn’t summit, we all had an epic time—great guides, climbing buds & I know The West Rib & The Fairview Inn will not soon forget us that “last night” in Talkeetna.
For the record, I played & sang a couple of songs at “open mic tues”—DG & Uch witnessed the “trainwreck” the extra nite we stayed.
Again, what a time…and Joe H—the cache ate your snowshoes—it wasn’t Mike’s fault!
Tim

Posted by: tim mclaughlin on 7/12/2012 at 7:20 pm

Tim, glad to hear you are all well. Look forward to your return to Wenatchee. Bart

Posted by: Bart Miller on 7/12/2012 at 10:08 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team 14K and a Snow Day

July 7, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

The weather forecast was right on this time... A day of snow. It was a little bit like the inside of a milk bottle for most of the time. There were a few hours when the clouds were thinner and the sun's heat could be felt through the storm, but the snowflakes never quit falling. It was not going to be a climbing day for our team and so we turned it into a fine rest day. Solveig Waterfall taught an excellent course in avalanche beacon use. Tim Hardin and Cody Doolan built the mother of all snow kitchens. The team listened patiently to old guide stories and chatted over the current events we could pick up from the Anchorage FM stations. We had a few sessions of cutting snow blocks and building walls around the tents. Mostly this was done for exercise and to get warm, since as yet this particular storm hasn't come with the wind which would necessitate walls. We are happy for that and are somewhat resigned to another day or two of this same system. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Dear Cathy,I’m happy to hear that everybody is doing well even thought the weather is not colaborating. Just be pacient and careful and not to worry because you guys will make it to the top. Do not forget the pictures!!!

Posted by: Carmen Allen on 7/9/2012 at 2:28 pm

Cathy,
I enjoy reading the blog every morning. I hope the conditions will get better soon and you can move on! Alan and I need you for a long overdue ER meeting back here in San Diego!
Good luck to you and the team,
Gerhard

Posted by: Gerhard on 7/9/2012 at 1:12 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Beat Feet to Basecamp

July 7, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Adam Knoff called into the office just before 6PM. With a storm expected, the team was hoping to make it to basecamp in order to fly off in front of the storm. The weather didn't quite hold and it began to snow in the last hour upon reaching basecamp. The team's plan to unwind in Talkeetna has been thwarted until further notice.

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Adam and team, was glad to read the posting that you were down to base camp. Sorry your summit hopes didn’t work out this time. Thanks for blogging and helping your mom not worry so much :). Hope to see or hear from you soon Adam. I hope you got out today? Love Kris

Posted by: Kris Bowditch on 7/9/2012 at 8:17 pm

Nels,
I know you are probably pissed about your current situation, but I can’t wait for you to be back on the grid! I miss you and I have so much to tell you! Stay safe and keep writing.
xoxo EB

Posted by: Erica on 7/8/2012 at 6:40 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry Supplies to 14K Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Our first night at 14 camp went well. Not that folks didn't notice the altitude and the cold here in Genet Basin, but everybody showed up for bacon and bagels breakfast in a reasonably cheerful state. We didn't get up early, since it takes the sun until about 9:30 AM to get far enough around Denali's South Peak to shine on us. And we took our sweet time getting geared up for our "back carry" -the mission to retrieve our cache below Windy Corner from three days ago. We left 14K at 10 minutes past noon and made fine time getting down around the corner. It was another windless day where we were, but we could see that the gang at 17 camp was catching it in the teeth. The cache was right where we'd left it and it didn't look like the ravens had even bothered trying to dig into it. We loaded up and began the slow walk back uphill over the now familiar terrain. We were back a little before 5 PM. Job done and the approach finished. Now we can focus on the climb. Via the radio, we knew that Adam Knoff and his crew were quitting high camp and descending ahead of a multi-day storm. They had our sympathy, obviously, but we looked forward to seeing them at 14. They didn't stay too long as they wanted to get down around the end of the West Buttress before the snow started falling. The evening was the calm before whatever storm we'll get though. We still had good views of Mount Foraker, across the way, but it and every other peak, was stacked high with lenticular clouds... something is coming. But we've got everything we need to deal with such things, and we are dug into our fortress at fourteen. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Sounds like you guys might be getting a nice cool breeze up there !
Hunker down & good luck on the stroll up.

Posted by: Blackie on 7/7/2012 at 3:47 pm

May the storm pass quickly and uneventfully so that you can make your way to the top soon. We miss you Cathy. Looking forward to your triumphant return :)

Posted by: Monica on 7/7/2012 at 2:12 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Descend to 14K Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

This is Adam calling in from 17,000’ on Denali. We woke this morning to continued snow and wind, with a major low pressure system forecast to dominate the region over the next several days. We have endured this weather at high camp since Monday and have decided to descend back to 14K camp. Even the approach route, between 14,000’ and basecamp, can be a bear to navigate in foul weather, and we need to stay strong and focused. We’ll begin our descent of the West Buttress and the infamous fixed lines to reach Advanced Base at 14,200’ where Dave Hahn’s RMI party is encamped. We’ll check in tomorrow and advise everyone of our plans and progress. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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John and crew, Stay strong! I am pulling for the weather to begin to work in your favor. You have been so patient ....hang in there! love, dee

Posted by: Deann on 7/7/2012 at 12:46 pm

Nelson, sympathy for Mother Nature at 17,000 camp. I know you toughed out cold and wind, and I hope you can recharge and warm a bit at 14,000 camp. I know you may be disappointed, but few have ever been to 17,000 on Denali. Hang in there and maybe the weather will break and reward perseverance. Love you, stay safe. Dad

Posted by: Bill on 7/7/2012 at 10:10 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 14 Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

It wasn't a flawless day. There were plenty of clouds about, and it looked mean and nasty up high on the mountain, but it was certainly nice enough where we were. We left 11 camp at ten minutes past ten, ground on up motorcycle and squirrel hills in low gear and came out into the polo fields below the end of the West Buttress. Another good uphill walk took us past our cache point from the other day and into definitely-not-windy-corner. We went around the corner in perfect conditions, but all agreed it was pretty tough traversing the snowy side hill with a sled threatening to pull one off the track. It began to snow on us a bit, but by this point it was welcome as it kept us from overheating as we wound around, between and over the top of giant crevasses on the final hour into our destination. We pulled into camp at 14,200 ft at a few minutes past five, completing our biggest day yet. Temps were noticeably cooler up so high and there was a light breeze blowing through 14 camp, so we couldn't pause long enough to pat ourselves on the back or to gaze up in wonder at the West Buttress and the South Peak of Denali... we needed to get tents up and anchored down. We simultaneously got that done, a kitchen up and running to melt large quantities of snow (we were all parched), a dining area dug in and covered and a latrine in place. We are getting well practiced at high altitude, cold-camp construction. Just as we sat down for dinner at 8 PM, it was time to turn on a radio to catch the nightly forecast for mountain weather. It isn't a terribly stable outlook, but we do hope Adam Knoff's RMI team at 17,200 ft can hang in there and get lucky. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Hi Brian and team - hope everyone is feeling healthy and energized. Sounds like the days are definitely getting tougher and colder. Connor wakes up every morning and wants to look at the pictures on the blog, I think you may have a climbing partner for your next adventure. We love you and miss you.

Posted by: Robin, Tristan & Connor on 7/7/2012 at 5:30 am

Sounds like you had a long day and all did well. Continued patience and success. Inch by inch.
Enjoy and be safe.

Posted by: Carolyn on 7/6/2012 at 8:59 pm

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team to the Edge of the World

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Waiting for Stability

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: July 10th Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team - Shoveling Clients, Sleeping Guides

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Waiting at Basecamp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team 14K and a Snow Day

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Beat Feet to Basecamp

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry Supplies to 14K Camp

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Descend to 14K Camp

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 14 Camp

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