This is the June 19th Denali expedition sending love from 14,000 foot camp. We received a foot of fresh snow last night distracting us from our scheduled plan of carrying loads to the top of the fixed lines at 16,200 feet. Because of this unexpected delay we are resting today fending off climbers soliciting food to lighten their loads for the descent.
We have decided to pass the phone to let each team member send a personal hey to friends and family.
This one goes out to my wife Birgen and son Liam. I have only tried to spoon Uchal twice thinking of you. He elbowed me both times. I miss you as much as ever and can' t wait to get home to you both.....
DG here. Miss and love you all. Doing great up here and everything is rock steady. Hugs Oz and see you soon. Can't wait for you to join me.
It's Chris. Special thanks to all of you who posted messages and words of encouragement on the blog. It means a lot and gives me some extra fuel for the push up the peak. Nickie - I love you so much and can't wait to see you again after a successful trip. Cheers!
This is Michael U. I hope all is well back home and abroad! I miss and love you all so much. O Sorry for leaving you to care for the new K-9. Grace, HB, Samer, Charlotte, Lulu, and the rest of the family - I can't wait to see you when I get home.
Greetings from JJ, amazing group of guys, amazing mounting and truly an experience of a lifetime to be here. Priorities change when life is stripped to the essentials. Peace, joy and love of friends and family take in a new and heightened priority. Please know I am very safe and that my love for you is growing with each step. I miss you all and have many big hugs in store for all upon my return, especially the new love of my life. See you at the wedding if not sooner. Love, John
Hello fam & friends--Tim here. It's hard to explain what the top of our continent looks like--truly amazing! Thx for all of your posts, luv sharing them in the "posh" (a funky community eating/gathering area). Great guides & climbing team, we're all looking up at the top now.
Love & miss you all--literally dreaming of you nightly--altitude makes for some strange dreams BTW.
Thx for covering me during cherry harvest & all the other "stuff." See you in a couple of weeks!!!
John, Great to hear all of you are doing fine. We are just home from the “small hills of NC” As we go along in life we do learn more of love, laughter and thankfulness. Blessings to all of you climbing. Jackie and Paul
Posted by: Jackie Winchell on 7/1/2012 at 9:39 pm
What no news fro you Nelson?? I know that you are having a trip of a lifetime. Check in next time the phone goes around. The moms in KC (that would be Mrs. G and me) are worried :-) Can’t wait to see you ... and the amazing photos. I would definitely be up for Killi next year. Lots of love, Mom
Posted by: Jennifer Collet on 6/30/2012 at 5:40 am
Update at 12:12 pm PST: The team is flying into basecamp! The weather cooperated for flights and we expect to hear from the team once they are settled on the glacier.
12:00 am PST:
The plan was for us to get started with our Denali expedition today. We needed good mountain flying weather. We had high hopes, but as it turned out, we also had low clouds. It was on the dark and rainy side if things as we finished breakfast and walked out toward the airstrip in Talkeetna. During the course of the day, the cloud cover would lighten here and there and we monitored alternating reports that it was getting better or worse now and again at our intended basecamp on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier... But in the end, the upshot was that conditions never really got good enough for our pilots to risk flights into the range.
The team took the delay without great concern, we passed the time hanging at the hangar, playing ping pong, listening to music and catching up on email and current events. We enjoyed fine Talkeetna meals at various restaurants and we took advantage of the comforts of one more day of civilization. Into the mountains tomorrow. Possibly.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Mike Walter called at 12:00 a.m. Friday morning and reported that he and the team had reached 17,000’ Camp on Mt. McKinley. They had a nice day of climbing with light snow and no wind. They rolled into camp at about 5:00 p.m., and are now resting. The team may take a rest day at 17,000 but if everyone is feeling good they might just go for the top.
Good Luck Team!
Delighted you had the chance to move onward and upward, well done team! A promise of beer, the weather cleared…tricky, isn’t it??!
Continued success for all,
liz
After a few snowy days at our 11K camp, we hoped for some kinder weather for our move to 14,000'. We all agree we got too much of a good thing. Yesterday's move validated the old mountaineering saying that "you either freeze or fry." Wednesday morning was clear, but quite cold at 11K. We ate our warm breakfast, anxiously awaiting the sun to warm our tents before we packed up to move. The cool morning climb up Motorcycle Hill quickly turned into a sweltering overly sunny slog through the Polo Fields and around Windy Corner which lacked the then desired wind of which it got its name. After refueling and rehydrating the well-oiled machine we pulled into camp 4 (14,000') at 5 pm. We were welcomed by our other RMI team, light snow, and many other climbers at this small makeshift alpine village.
Today (Thursday), we returned to Windy Corner to retrieve our cache of food and equipment in much of the same weather conditions as the day before. We are now resting back at 14,000' awaiting our possible carry up the fixed lines to 16,000' tomorrow.
To our many fans out there who are leaving messages on our blog, rest assured they have reached us!
Tuesday night over dinner we passed the iPhone around for all to read the kind words from friends and family. Keep them coming!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides Mike Uchal, Adam Knoff, Zeb Blais, and our team at 14,000'
Stay classy lower 48!
Hi to Mike R and fellow climbers. I am soo amazed by your courage, strength, and perseverance, you should be very proud of yourselves as I am of you Mike!I luv reading all the messages including the other teams as well, Its absolutely unimaginable to me, what you must be experiencing. Enjoy what you can. Thinking about you. Love Cheri
Posted by: Cheri on 6/29/2012 at 6:54 pm
Greetings John!
We are all so excited about your amazing adventure! Deann is on the phone with me right now and we are still talking about you! Enjoy your travels!
We've finished one of the more challenging days of any Denali climbing expedition... Packing, sorting gear and generally getting organized for leaving Talkeetna and getting on the mountain. It wasn't all hard work and suffering though, we certainly enjoyed a great breakfast at the Roadhouse. National Park Service personnel at the Talkeetna Ranger Station gave us a warm welcome and Joe Reichert delivered a fine and informative orientation slideshow. Our flight team out at K2 Aviation made us feel right at home in their hangar, which was where we got our food, tents, stoves, ropes, pots, shovels, fuel, snow saws, snow shoes, packs, ice axes, boots, crampons, sleeping bags, etc, etc, and etc. ready.
Finally, we'd earned a break and a relaxing dinner at The West Rib Pub. Folks then drifted home early for a last comfy night in the Talkeetna Motel. The plan is for the team to meet bright and early for breakfast and then to hustle on out to the airstrip... If all goes well and the weather is stable, we could be loading airplanes shortly after 8AM and then winging our way toward the Alaska Range.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
To my son Brian, Have a safe and happy climbing adventure! I am keeping you and the team in my daily prayers. (Inez read the blog to me, and it sounds like an exciting trip!)Love always, Mom
Posted by: Mom Bulatao on 6/30/2012 at 3:20 pm
Good Luck everyone!!
Tell Dr. Kelliher his A-Track students are sending him (and the whole team) love!
We will be tracking the journey
=)
Posted by: Jenni Lentenbrink on 6/28/2012 at 10:50 pm
We went to bed with clear skies and a forecast for 12-18" of snow overnight. The clear skies persisted overnight and we didn't get any new snow. There is a lenticular cloud on top of Denali today, indicating strong winds. We're also seeing snow blowing off of the West Buttress between the top of the fixed ropes and high camp. The current winds and the increased avalanche hazard from yesterday's foot of snow are keeping us at 14k for another day. The sunny weather at camp today is welcome, and is helping to keep our spirits high. It looks like some better weather is approaching for the weekend, and we're hoping we'll be able to take a crack at the summit then. With any luck, we'll be able to move to high camp tomorrow and be in position for the arrival of the more favorable weather. We'll keep you posted!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Today is number six on the mountain and the first solely designated to rest. As discovered on day one of our long journey together, having fun is as necessary as being organized, fit and compatible.
This morning the gang was allowed to sleep until their natural alarm clock pulled them from dreams of family, beer and showers. Six inches of fresh snow blanketed our camp here at 11,000 feet so we were all pleased to be staying put. Once all gathered in our perfectly designed cook tent, two hours were killed flipping flap jacks and drinking coffee. Now we have moved on to lunch where singing every song to Michael Jackson's Thriller album has trumped all else. There is not an unhappy soul in the group. Mike would like to wish mamma and papa Uchal safe travels on their adventure to Russia and beyond.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Singin MJ??? Has Gords schooled you all in the finer moves of the Thriller choreography?? When you run put of MJ Gords may treat you to some spot on GnR! Could make for a loooong rest day! Cheers everyone. The Reisers in N.Conway, NH
Posted by: Petah Reisah on 6/28/2012 at 6:54 am
Hi Michael, Hope you guys all enjoyed your day of rest. I am sure it was well deserved. Just wanted to tell you that your Dad is very jealous that you are surrounded by all that snow and cold :) Stay strong and safe. Love you. P.S. Jess says “HI”
Hello again from 14,200'. It's snowing right now, and it snowed all last night. There's only about 6" of accumulation so far, bur more is expected today and tomorrow. The good news is that there isn't any wind here at 14k, and we're all comfortable and cozy in our camp. We're still in a holding pattern, waiting for decent weather to move up to high camp and be in position for a summit bid when the current weather pushes out.
In the mean time, we're getting plenty of rest here at camp. Everyone is patiently awaiting better weather, although we're all a little antsy for some exercise and a chance to move higher. We'll keep you posted...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hi John, Talked with Dee - happy times - Paul and I are spending our time picturing all of us having dinner together!!! So glad to be able to feel in contact. Many Blessings to all of you - take care and God Bless. Jackie and Pal
Posted by: Jackie Winchell on 6/29/2012 at 8:38 am
Hope you don’t have too much snow removal to do from your camp and that the weather settles into perfect climbing weather very soon. The kids say HI to their Daddy, Lee!
Today we set out to cache our upper mountain supplies above Windy Corner. As we finished breakfast and packed gear the wind blew snow around camp. Layered up and ready for the weather, we set out anticipating the gales that would greet us at the corner. Constant wind and snow tried to impede us but the crew dealt with the adverse weather like it was a summer stroll. As we pulled up to the fabled Windy Corner the weather was nicer than what we'd walked through to get there. We buried our gear there and pushed back through the nasty weather to 11 camp. Everyone did great and spirits are high.
Tomorrow we rest!
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Ahh - a day of leisure in the rarified air. Well deserved after yesterday and a chance for the team to recharge.
Chris - continued best on the adventure and trust you remembered every last lyric on the Thriller album.
Pops
Posted by: Pops on 6/26/2012 at 4:53 pm
This is incredibly great! The team is working together and enjoying the experience. Hope the weather cooperates all the way up and back. Love Ya Tim. So proud of you!!
After a nice evening of sunshine, we awoke again today to light snow and wind, and very limited visibility. Again, this is fine with us as we could use another rest day before moving to high camp at over 17,000'. The weather forecast this morning indicated that we may see some significant snow tomorrow, before this system moves out later in the week.
We're all enjoying some down time, but we are eager to climb higher also. Patience is paramount as we sit in this holding pattern. We'll keep you posted with our progress with regular updates. If anybody out there can pull some strings and hook us up with perfect, sunny and warm weather for our summit bid, we'll buy you a beer when we get back to civilization!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Stan et al—Snow! I would love to see snow, right now! I hope you are not too bored and are able to read and rest! The scenery looks very nice. We are fine. Take care, love me
Posted by: Betsy on 6/26/2012 at 1:04 pm
We are watching and hoping for more sun and clear weather. Patience is a good thing…wish I had some but you are making great progress and soon you will summit! Love from your Vermont buddies.
Posted by: Helen and Mike Bridgewater on 6/26/2012 at 11:19 am
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John, Great to hear all of you are doing fine. We are just home from the “small hills of NC” As we go along in life we do learn more of love, laughter and thankfulness. Blessings to all of you climbing. Jackie and Paul
Posted by: Jackie Winchell on 7/1/2012 at 9:39 pm
What no news fro you Nelson?? I know that you are having a trip of a lifetime. Check in next time the phone goes around. The moms in KC (that would be Mrs. G and me) are worried :-) Can’t wait to see you ... and the amazing photos. I would definitely be up for Killi next year. Lots of love, Mom
Posted by: Jennifer Collet on 6/30/2012 at 5:40 am
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