Entries from Mt. McKinley
The wait continues here in the rainy village of Talkeetna. We have covered a whole gamut of skills and topics. Currently we don't have a glacier under our our feet but we have many new tricks and tips to help us when our plane's skis hit the powder-covered runway at KIA (
Kahiltna International Airport), as many consider it. While the last flight in or out occurred this last Monday, our motivation is high and our spirits strong as we endure these fuzzy and rain filled skies. Maybe fishing for halibut would suit this weather well?
Our afternoon will take us to the Talkeetna Ranger Station for a documentary video that outlines the process of climbing and the reality of this difficult and rewarding climb to the summit of North America! We continue to send positive thoughts to the teams on the hill, hoping to high-five with then as we land.
Any high pressure you can send up here would be appreciated by all...
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides
Tyler Jones,
Garrett Stevens,
Bryan Hendrick, and team
May 31, 2014, 2:11 pm PT
We are still here at Kahiltna Base camp.
We received another foot of new snow overnight and it shows no sign of slowing or stopping.
We are all staying hopeful that the weather will break sometime in the next few days and we can finally get a big meal and that long awaited hot shower!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 30, 2014 - 10:54 pm PT
Ground hog day of a sort here, though not really. We spent another day sitting, listening to what sounds like a freight train above us: the wind blowing over the
Buttress. Mid day though, the wind direction shifted, and 14 camp went from being a place of relative calm, to getting intermittent gusts of wind to 30 mph or so, enough to move a lot of snow around. At the same time the snowfall intensity increased, so that it finally feels like we are sitting in some real weather in Alaska. A number of skiers around camp took the opportunity to make some nice powder turns, making us all jealous. With all of that, we are still optimistic about our window in the next day or two, and so spirits are high. Once this system blows itself out, it will be off to the races for us, hopefully as soon as tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes!
Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team
May 30, 2014 - 11:12 pm PT
The view from the vestibule this morning was not what I'd have called heartening. Clouds and snow dominated the picture, adding visual texture to the soft but incessant howl of the winds coming from the
Buttress above. We could still see most of the landmarks around camp, but in the shadow of the early morning it didn't look promising for our carry. So, after talking with Leah and Nick, I happily crawled back into my warm sack.
We later awoke at the more reasonable hour of 9:00 to get the stoves fired up and start our day. No one complained about not climbing. I think having a real rest day was welcome by all.
So what do we do on these days? First of all, we hang out in the Posh an extra hour or two, then we cut a few snow blocks to further reinforce the walls we built around our tents yesterday. It was impressive seeing the team rally and build some really good walls. I think everyone was feeling good and happy to be doing something. Twelve hours in a tent can do that to a person.
But a rest day is a rest day and some good tent time is a must. A group was playing an animated game of BS next door to us in the Posh. Others were catching up on things on the radio. Naps are never a bad thing, and in this tent a few games of cribbage were contested. We even got in a bit of rope craft review and knot tying practice.
Such is life for the climber hanging out at 14,200' waiting for Mother Nature to offer us a little friendlier weather to continue our climb up the flanks of one of her most beautiful mountain creations.
We're all doing well and happily waiting this little set back out.
Cheers,
RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick
May 30, 2014 - 10:16 pm PT
The
Alaska Range remains untouched by eager climbers awaiting a green light on a weather window. Our team awoke to our second day of uncertainty, hopes high that we might catch a break in this persistent southwesterly storm. Everyone's enthusiasm and patience has been key while we perfect the "Talkeetna hang". We spent the majority of our day at the hangar working on vital skills that will get us moving quickly once we hit the glacier. Everyone's psyched for tomorrow's potential, feeling optimistic that we might get our chance to fly!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and the gang
May 30, 2014 - 7:43 pm PT
Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska! The
Upper West Rib team arrived in Anchorage yesterday afternoon and shuttled north to Talkeetna, our launch site for the mountain. Right now, this sleepy little town is bursting at the seams with climbers waiting to fly onto the glacier. The skies are overcast and the planes have been grounded since early in the week. Everywhere you look, there are softshell clad people trying to pass the time.
Our team was distracted from the constant refreshing of weather websites by plenty of prep work today. After meeting with the National Park Service for a general orientation, we rolled our sleeves up and got right to work. Eight hours later, our bags are packed and we will head to dinner to discuss the only thing on waiting climber's minds... "when will the clouds break?"
For now all we can do is relax and know that we are prepared whenever that eventuality comes about.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
May 30, 2014 - 6:29 pm PT
Our team is still at
Kahiltna Base Camp waiting for the weather to improve so that we can fly back to Talkeetna. This is day 23 of our trip and we're all getting antsy in anticipation of a hot shower, food, and flush toilets.
We picked up another eight inches of snow over night, and the precipitation has continued pretty much all day. We're hoping for a break in the weather in the next few days so that planes can get in to Base Camp.
That's pretty much all the news from this end.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
May 29, 2014 - 11:07 pm
The team got through their first night here at 14,200' in splendid shape. Most actually got their best nights sleep of the trip.
Although we got a few extra winks of sleep this morning, we got up early enough to pick up our cache at 13,500' and were back before noon. This allowed us plenty of time to get in some training before we hopefully make a carry up the fixed ropes and finally on to the
West Buttress, the namesake of our route up Denali.
But before we could call it a day and enjoy some quality time relaxing in the tents, we built a 'proper' latrine complete with high walls to protect us from the wind and blowing snow. These walls do double duty to afford us some much appreciated privacy as well.
Walls were also built up around our tents, which will be of huge benefit if the forecasted winds appear tonight.
We'd like to end with a parting shout out to three generations of Greg's family celebrating their birthday today. Happy Birthday Sarah, Robin and Ken!
Good night everyone.
RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick
On The Map
May 29, 2014 - 7:22 pm PT
Today has been more of the same from the last few days: snow, some light winds, and evidence of strong winds up high. As the weather continues to stall groups here at
14K camp, more and more groups have arrived to join the community. When we arrived, 14K Camp resembled a tiny village of tents and snow walls, but sprawl has taken over and camp looks more like a city everyday. As the population grows, so does the sense of community, since everyone is dealing with the same problems. When they announce the weather over the radio at 8 pm, small clusters of climbers come together across camp to listen and discuss afterwards. As you walk through camp, the weather is on everyone's tongue; what is it going to do tomorrow, when will the window come, and what is causing this pattern is discussed a hundred times a day. A small barter market of food, toilet paper, and entertainment has sprung up. It feels like a small emptiness opens every time a team runs out of days and has to head back downhill, but their space (both physical and psychological) is quickly filled by the arrival of a new group. All of this helps to keep us patient and sane as we wait. Tomorrow will likely be a continuation of this trend, but the awaited window does seem to be showing itself in the forecasts, so the end may be in sight!
Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, and Josh
On The Map
May 29, 2014 - 5:55 pm PT
Winter's grip on
North America's tallest mountain stays strong, while climbers surround the flight office in anticipation of what lies ahead. A sudden roar, cough, cough, an engine turns over. A lone pilot off to scout the weather towards Basecamp takes off from the Talkeetna air field. With him he carries the hopes of the climbers on either end. So far, no one has made it in or out, and we stand by, sending good wishes and warm thoughts to our friends currently sitting on the mountain.
Here in Talkeetna we are lucky to have a meal in arm's reach, to enjoy one another's company, share stories, learn new skills and refine the existing ones. A team bonds, creating an experience that each of us will remember for a lifetime. But for now we wait, hope, and learn. For this is just another day of one intrepid group in Alaska.
All the best for now.
RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett and Bryan
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Hi Dave and team-
We will be watching your progress from Watertown. So excited you are finally beginning your adventure.
Good luck!
Julie and Karla
Posted by: Julie and Karla on 6/1/2014 at 2:19 pm
Tyler, Garrett and Paul -
Hi Guys! Well, here we all are again. Of course, I wish I was there with you getting all antsy to get up on the mountain. I see that Ben Alavarez is following along on the blog. Hi Ben!!
Hope you get that high pressure system soon.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/1/2014 at 12:14 pm
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