Entries from Alaska
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 2:13pm PT
Yesterday we did some training on rope travel techniques for up above 14k. The weather was clear and cold, with a chilly breeze.
Last night a true Denali storm came in with snow and wind, and we’ve been spending the morning digging out our tents, trying to stay warm, and hunkering down.
The storm is forecast to continue through Saturday, with 60 mph winds here at camp; needless to say, we’re not going up anytime soon. We’re also anticipating high avalanche hazard on the slopes above camp and the autobahn due to the new snow load and the wind transported slabs.
We’ll keep you posted on how this shakes out. For now, we are focusing our energy on defending our camp and staying safe.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Friday, May 21, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT
This morning we woke up to fresh snow as we began preparations for our carry to the 9800 cache. Our duffels and backpacks were able to easily swallow our gear as we only had to carry a load of about 50% of the weight from the previous day. The team ascended, cached everything and then descended in stellar form, ate a nourishing meal and went to bed with full stomachs and tired legs.
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Just found your trip and will be following! I climbed this route in 1996 with RMI / Robert Link and you are brining back some powerful memories. One day, one camp, one step, one cut block at a time. You’ll get there!
Posted by: Keith on 5/23/2021 at 8:50 pm
Looks great! Keep it up!
Posted by: Thomas Brown on 5/22/2021 at 6:52 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 10:28 pm PT
We had a bit of a false start today. When e got up the winds that have been storming through camp were absent, the sky above clear, though thick, high clouds shrouded the upper mountain. As we finished breakfast, the side started to creep back, the clouds crept up and down to meet at us, and things started to look more marginal. We dragged our feet and started to see an improving trend, so we decided to go for it, knowing we could turn around and head for a snug camp if it didn't work out. We climbed Motorcycle Hill our of camp in some low visibility, but otherwise pleasant conditions, but as we crested to the ridgeline, the wind found us, cooler than a polar bears toenails. With less than optimal visibility, increasing winds, and a significant stretch of climbing in front of us, we decided to retreat back to camp.
In the end, it was nice to stretch the legs and we'll be ready when the mountain opens her arms and says come on up.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Looks so unbelievably beautiful!!! Keep sending pics - we can at least imagine we are there with you. :D
Posted by: Monica Deckard on 5/22/2021 at 10:28 pm
That image of the mountain opening her arms to your group is quite lovely. May she see fit to do that sooner than later. Nice to stretch your legs, Hope better weather arrives soon.
Posted by: Bethany on 5/22/2021 at 10:45 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 9:56 pm PT
Winds had calmed by 5am, and I got my hopes up as I fired the stoves in the cold Alaskan dawn. But it turned out to be a brief lull instead of a pattern change. Persistently strong winds and snow returned and we were dealt another weather day.
We’re optimistic that the weather pattern is changing; we saw the sun this evening for the first time in four days. We’re all in good spirits, ready and rested for the move to 14k.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team
Good luck to Luke and the whole team!
Posted by: Matthew Byars on 5/25/2021 at 9:19 am
The Bemis’s and Wilhelm’s wish you all well from the shores of Cayuga lake for chuck’s graduation! Hope you’re all not going too stir crazy and that you haven’t consumed all your snacks. Stay safe and thanks for the daily updates- much appreciated!
Posted by: Tracy on 5/23/2021 at 5:21 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Wednesday, May 19, 2021 - 5:54 pm PT
The winds ramped up last night and the temps dropped. The trend persisted into the morning as we had breakfast and coffee. Our decision to stay put today was justified, as winds continued all day today, which would have made travel difficult at best and dangerous at worst.
Instead of packing up camp, we enjoyed another rest day. We had little to gain to attempt to move camp in such conditions, as our team is acclimatizing to the altitude and recovering from the past week's work here on Denali at 11,200'.
Reading, snacking, stretching, snoozing, listening to music, and shooting the breeze were the main activities for our team today. We're on standby for the winds to abate so that we can make the move up around Windy Corner to Genet Basin at 14,200'.
We'll check in again tomorrow to keep you apprised of our progress.
Glad the climb is going well, and that you were able to rest yesterday, instead of climbing in rough conditions. While you prepared for the trip up to 14K, Corey Kluber pitched a no hitter, the second in the MLB in 2 days (6th overall), LeBron and the Lakers came from way back to beat GS in the 7/8 play-in game, the PGA golf championship prepared to start, the Bruins took a 2-1 lead on the Capitals, and Juventus won the Coppa Italia. Just thought you might enjoy a short sports report.
Be safe and have fun.
Posted by: Bruce on 5/20/2021 at 4:22 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Tuesday, May 18, 2021 - 6:21 pm
Our team enjoyed a well-deserved rest day today. The timing was perfect, as our team was ready for it and the weather was a bit squirrelly today; the colder temps, breezy conditions and light snow didn't bother us at all as we lounged in our tents, reading, listening to music, snoozing and snacking.
The weather forecasts indicate improving conditions tomorrow and warming temps by Thursday. Our next mission will be to move camp up to Genet Basin, at 14,200'. We hope to tackle that tomorrow if the weather is good in the morning. If not, Thursday looks promising, and another day of rest and acclimatization at 11,200' will only help us.
We'll let you know either way tomorrow. Stay tuned.
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Monday, May 17, 2021 - 6:17 pm PT
We took advantage of a beautiful day today and kept pushing that pesky rock up the mountain. This time we donned crampons and traded trekking poles for ice axes. We had an amazing climb up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hills, across the Polo Fields, and up around Windy Corner, leaving a cache of food and fuel at around 13,800'. The weather and climbing conditions were perfect, and we were afforded spectacular views of the upper mountain.
We were back at camp by 4pm with plenty of time to lounge in the sun before dinner. Tomorrow we will take our first full day out of boots and get some rest. We'll check in again tomorrow.
"Some come to laugh the past away.
Some come to make it just one more day.
Whichever way your pleasure tends,
if you plant ice your gonna harvest wind." -Robert Hunter
Be safe
Posted by: Jim powell on 5/18/2021 at 4:27 pm
Keep up the great work everyone!!! Sounds like a day of rest was needed. Be safe and have fun!!!
Your work family misses you John Jezak!!!!
Posted by: Danielle Taylor on 5/18/2021 at 1:06 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
May 16, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT
We moved a whole lot of our food, fuel, and various other sundries up to about 10k today. Loads were lighter than yesterday by a lot, but the terrain was steeper and it was hard work. The team did great, even when the sun turned on the microwave oven on us and it started to feel more like the desert in July than an Alaskan Glacier in May.
All our work today sets us up well to move to 11k camp tomorrow. We know the trail, loads should be even lighter, and it promises to be a successful day. We'll check in tomorrow from up higher!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis, and team
The pictures by the planes are great!! Wonderful to see the group, everyone looks ready to go!! Fun to read about the first few days. Cannot wait to read more!!
Posted by: Bethany on 5/17/2021 at 6:27 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
May 16, 2021 - 5:32 pm PT
We woke lazily to light snow this morning and had a leisurely breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and smoked Alaska salmon. At 11am we set off downhill to retrieve our cache from 10,000'. We were back at camp by 2pm, with plenty of time for a nap and to gorge on lunch food. We also had some camp chores to attend to and some gear sorting in order to be ready for the next stage of the game: establishing a cache around Windy Corner at ~13,800'. We hope to make that happen tomorrow or the next day. We'll keep you posted either way.
Looks and sounds spectacular. Stay healthy and strong!
Praying for all of you!
Posted by: Julie Morris on 5/17/2021 at 2:10 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
May 16, 2021 - 12:41 am PT
We hit the ground running today. At 8 am the weather looked good to fly, so we hustled to the hanger, changed into mountain clothes, and loaded gear on the two K2 otters that would ferry us to Basecamp. The flight in is always a highlight, as the tundra gives way to foothills, and then to the craggy peaks and ridges of the Alaska range, with cracked up glaciers carving channels between.
We took an hour or two to get our gear sorted, sleds loaded, and ropes setup, and then struck out from Basecamp to make our way up the lower Kahiltna to the base of ski hill. Often the first hour of moving with sleds has some hiccups, but not for us today. The group moved well, enjoying firm enough trail conditions that we could eschew the snowshoes.
We're settled into camp, feed, and tucking into sleeping bags for our first night in the mountain. We'll be in touch tomorrow!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team
Jason- Your structural engineering group is cheering you on from afar!! We miss you and look forward to hearing all about your adventures. Hope you’re not thinking of Camden Shops up there lol.
Posted by: Katherine Bemis on 5/28/2021 at 6:30 am
Jason, All that tire pulling with Sully is paying off! You got this!
Lisa and Charlie
Posted by: Lisa and Charlie on 5/18/2021 at 9:56 am
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Great job so far Nate! Good luck tackling the rest of the climb! Hope you’re having a great time.
Posted by: Steve Glassman on 6/2/2021 at 8:56 am
Hi Tom (Sweetness) Enjoy your down time and be safe honey!! Can’t wait to see you and hear all about your adventures ❤️❤️ Auntie Kel Kel
Posted by: Kelly Pozniak on 5/28/2021 at 1:38 pm
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