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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Acclimating Hike around Pheriche

March 31, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 13,950'

Despite moving to 14,000' yesterday, we all slept soundly in Ang Nuru's lodge here in Pheriche and the clear morning revealed the stunning panorama of peaks that we find ourselves amidst. With a day to hike and acclimatize here around Pheriche we left the teahouse and began ascending tight switchbacks up a ridge to the north of the village. Quickly gaining altitude, we were able to catch our first views of Island Peak, known locally as Imja Tse as we looked to the east up the Imja Khola valley below us. Standing proudly around Island Peak rose Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar, creating a grand panorama surrounding the mountain. Focusing our attention back on the trail, we continued uphill, eventually reaching the rocky outcropping Nangkar Tshang at over 16,500'. It felt good to push our bodies to these new altitudes and the team climbed wonderfully, moving smoothly up and back down the steep hillsides above Pheriche. As we stood on the summit, looking out at the views around us and watching the clouds gradually roll up the valley from far below, three Himalayan Eagles soared past us. It was an incredible sight to see, these massive birds playing in the thermals at such altitudes. We watched them fly back and forth before gradually moving up the valley. We returned to the teahouse in the afternoon, just as the clouds rolled in. Legs tired after a solid day of walking, we kicked back in the dining room and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. Today is Mark's birthday and unbeknown to him Karen has convinced Ang Nuru to prepare a birthday cake up here for him, we are looking forward to surprising him with it this evening. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

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Great pictures! Exciting to follow your journey everyday. Be safe, my love to you and Sara

Posted by: Phylis Whitehead on 4/1/2011 at 3:46 am

Nice to see you looking good . we love the pictures. happy to see you are having fun. keep safe,
love,
Scott & Annette

Posted by: Scott & Annette Sanders on 3/31/2011 at 8:28 pm

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Mt. Rainier: August 5th Team on Top!

August 5, 2023

Posted by: Casey Grom, Ben Luedtke, Jess Wedel, Erika Birkeland, Mitch Valaitis, Will Nash

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Ben Luedtke reached the summit of Mt. Rainier and were greeted with Snow! A summer storm with clouds, snow, and low visability kept the team from spending too much time on the summit. The team is on the descent, and in route to Camp Muir where the weather is currently a mix of rain and sleet.

Congratulations Team!

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Mt Rainier: August 14th Summit!

August 14, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs August 11 - 14, 2012 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported a beautiful day with 25-30 mph winds and clear skies. RMI Guides Brent Okita, Tim Hardin and Andres Marin started down from the crater rim with their teams around 7:30 a.m. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise later this afternoon. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise crew moved to 9,000' on Monday and set up camp where they will remain until Wednesday morning. They watched a beautiful sunset last night. Today the team practiced fixed line travel on a 60 degree slope and are currently hanging out in crevasses. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!

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Great job Paradise crew! Danielle, I’m so proud of you (little sis). I hope the weather continues to be awesome for you all. Be safe and savor the scenery…God be with you all.

Posted by: Tisha on 8/16/2012 at 7:40 am

Good luck on your summit climb in the morning Paradise crew.
We hope for more great weather! God bless you and a safe return.
Love you Danni

Posted by: sam on 8/15/2012 at 7:16 pm

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Mt. Rainier: July 9th Teams Summit!

July 9, 2021

Posted by: Grayson Swingle, Jess Matthews

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Clear skies and light winds greeted the Four Day Team on the summit of Mt. Rainier. RMI Guide Jess Matthews called in to let us know the team reached the summit at 6:05 am. They spent some time on the summit before starting their descent. The team will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon to celebrate!

Congratulations to today's team!

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Congrats, little brother! Can’t wait to hear about it!

Posted by: Bill Lively Jr on 7/10/2021 at 4:27 am

Way to go RG3 (David L) and team. Super proud of your efforts & accomplishments!!

Heck of a distance to climb, that’s awesome. Can’t wait to hear about the experience.

Posted by: Matt B on 7/9/2021 at 8:41 pm

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RMI Guide Alex Barber Leaving Annapurna to Help Those in Need after Nepal Earthquake

April 29, 2015

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Categories: Guide News

Since the earthquake I have been mostly holed up at Annapurna Base Camp. After the quake I couldn't let go of my desire to finish what I've started with Annapurna. I'd put in so much focus and taken on so much risk to be in a position to make a nO's ascent, especially as a team of one. But the reports of the destruction and hardship kept flooding in. Then one morning I could feel myself having let go of Annapurna and my interest shifted to seeing if I could get out of here to assist the people of Nepal. So that's it, my Annapurna expedition is finished. Yesterday I went back up on the mountain to pull my cached equipment at Camp 1. I have another cache at Camp 3, but it's unsafe to go that high on the mountain now, so I'll be abandoning that cache. I've teamed up with a few other Americans here in Nepal to work with a NGO affiliated with the UN. The plan is to meet up in Pokhara, then head out from there with equipment and jeeps supplied by the NGO. My first hurdle is it get out of base camp and down to Pokhara; which is easier said than done. Naturally, the government here has commandeered all the helicopters for rescue efforts. But we flew into base camp in helicopters for a reason, the trek out is sketchy. The US embassy has offered to airlift Americans out of remote areas, but I'm fit and able so I intend to walk out on my own. Tomorrow morning I and some others from the Annapurna Base Camp will be attempting this trek. We're headed for Pokhara. Once we arrive there, I'll meet up with the other American climbers. Our current directive from the NGO is to access some of the remote villages in this region and to report back on their situation, conditions, and immediate needs. Hopefully this will help expedite resources to the people in need. RMI Guide Alex Barber

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Alex, it’s nice to know you’re safe. Better to climb for another day. Just like you to walk out on your own. Be safe and let me know if and when you’re back on Rainier - would love to climb with you (even if it’s only 15K ft). Godspeed, my friend.

Peace, Lee

Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 5/1/2015 at 8:53 pm

Be safe and our prayer will be with you.

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 4/30/2015 at 8:33 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Waiting on Weather

July 2, 2019

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Monday, July 1, 2019 - 9:24 PM PT Denali is a mountain that definitely tests a group's patience. We woke up around 6 to look at the weather and Denali was still a bit too testy up high for us to make our move. This is to be expected when climbing big mountains and our team has accepted this challenge of waiting like a cobra to strike at our good weather window.... which will hopefully be tomorrow. The team is in great spirits and spent the day resting up and sport eating so we have the energy to get to the summit. Although not as nice as 14k camp, 17k is treating us well. Keep your fingers crossed for us for tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete

On The Map

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Well let’s just say, “Buzzard Butthairs” to another day at 17,200, and good for you for patience and persistence. No Denali Demons allowed, and may you soon reach your goal. Keep up that strong spirit.

GO TYM! GO TEAM!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 7/2/2019 at 9:59 am

Wayne, Zach and Ian-how are those snacks tasting? Hope you can summit today. Best wishes to the entire team. The summit awaits you!!!

Posted by: Aunt Kathy on 7/2/2019 at 8:49 am

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Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Journey to the Edge of the World

July 1, 2022

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Seth Burns, Tatum Whatford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200"

Thursday, June 30, 2022 11:25 pm PDT

Another beautiful day, but this was an easy one. We just rested and solidified our acclimatization today. And ate and ate and ate. It was great to see Andy’s RMI team come back into the camp at 14,000 on their way lower. We congratulated them and wished them a safe journey out.

In between afternoon naps, the team roped up and walked to the “Edge of the World” overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier’s NE Fork. Camp at 14,000 is in a broad and mostly flat basin, but at the edge, there is a fairly breathtaking view straight down… seemingly for miles. The gang enjoyed watching clouds race up the face and catching glimpses of the Cassin and West Rib climbing routes. Back at camp we had dinner in calm sunshine and prepared for the big move up to 17,200 ft.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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Cotopaxi Express: Whittaker & Team Ready for Summit Bid

January 8, 2019

Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews

Categories:

Elevation: 16,000'

Today was the day we have all been looking forward to. Hacienda life and acclimatization hikes have been pretty great, but we’re excited to switch gears and get to climbing. We spent the rainy morning double checking gear, packing, and looking outside hoping we’d see a break in the weather. By lunch the rain finally let up and we loaded the van headed for our final objective, Cotopaxi. We arrived at the trailhead at about 15,000’ to a thick fog, no wind, and some light snow on the ground with no views, but we were dry! We’ll take it! The team made quick work of the short hike to the hut at 16,000’. After re-organizing gear and enjoying a hot meal, we are tucked in to our sleeping bags dreaming of clear skies. Our team is strong, feeling good, and fired up to climb this volcano! RMI Guide Jess Matthews

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Vinson: Peter Whittaker Checks in from Union Glacier

January 17, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Hello there, this is Peter. It is January 17th and it is 8:45 [p.m.] here down in Antarctica. [We're] on the ice, back here at Union Glacier. We woke up this morning to beautiful blue skies and sun which is really nice after two days of weather. We were told that we had an hour to pack and break the tents and that the plane would be picking us up right after that. So we scrambled and broke everything down [and] the plane showed up. We were pretty excited to work our way to a couple of objectives that we had identified as skiable and climbable on the way to Union Glacier. When the pilot showed she had a forecast that was not good and we decided that we would fly back, watch the weather, and see how things went. The weather rolled in and shut things down; we were able to get back in to Union Glacier where we landed in that's where we are now. So we were not able to get to our ski objectives were a little saddened by that. But we're here and the forecast is not too good for the next several days. But we're already getting maps out and finding some different objectives. The cool thing is that the runway is in an area here at Union Glacier that is basically unexplored, so there's lots of potential for first ascents and first descents, accessible by Twin Otter if the weather permits, and also by snow mobile and they have these wonderful vans with big snow tracks on them as well. So, the game is always changing with a few twists and turns but the whole team is here. We did reunite with Ed, Cindy and David and so the whole team is back together, all nine of us. We're eating dinner and digging in here. [Brief Static] That's the update from the First Ascent RMI Team down here on the ice and we'll talk to you soon.

Peter Whittaker checking in from the ice.

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Torres Del Paine: Team Hikes to Torres Central

February 15, 2022

Posted by: Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Torres del Paine

Elevation: 458'

*retraction* for Doug’s dad, yesterday was 15.5 miles per Doug’s phone. Some people had 14 miles…. it’s was a contentious dinner conversation.

Today we left Francis Domes after a windy night. The dome fabric was blowing in the wind, tired hikers snored, and the geodesic dome frames shook at times. We had some uphill, downhill, “matt approved” terrain and some dry riverbed for trail. Most of the hike was along Lago Nordenskjöd which was windy enough to have white caps and spray. 5-6 condors soared above and one below us which is rare for these large birds with a 6’/2m wing span….mas o menos. We enjoyed some great views of the Horns and got our first glimpse of the Torres as we rolled into our refugio.

The insatiable thirst returned, and we are looking forward to our last day up to the Torres tomorrow morning. It has been a great trip regardless of the heavily debated terrain and mileage discussions. This group has been one for the record books…in a good way!

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King and Team

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Most Popular Entries

Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Acclimating Hike around Pheriche

Mt. Rainier: August 5th Team on Top!

Mt Rainier: August 14th Summit!

Mt. Rainier: July 9th Teams Summit!

RMI Guide Alex Barber Leaving Annapurna to Help Those in Need after Nepal Earthquake

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Waiting on Weather

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Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Journey to the Edge of the World

Cotopaxi Express: Whittaker & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Vinson: Peter Whittaker Checks in from Union Glacier

Torres Del Paine: Team Hikes to Torres Central

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