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Hey this is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp. Today was another difficult day dealing with the tragedies from yesterday. The team members stayed in Base Camp today, it was cloudy, a little snowy, a little cold. Three of our Sherpa team, Tshering, Lam Babu and Pemba helicoptered up, with others, to the accident site to continue the difficult and dangerous work that some of us were engaged in yesterday of well, body retrieval at this point. There are still three missing, is my understanding, and they were not able to find those three. But they did a great job in going up and working hard and trying to make a difference and we are very proud of them. The team is well, obviously, it is a difficult situation, everything is somewhat in limbo. There is word of a number of teams that are pulling the plug and are not going to climb. But we will see how these next couple of days play out. I told my climbers to be ready for anything. We will keep you informed. Bye now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

If at first you don't succeed... The forecast really wasn't all that good for today, but when Seth Waterfall and I looked out of the tent at 7:30 AM, we couldn't find too much wrong with the day. We started stoves, woke the team and geared up once again for a summit bid. We got out of camp at around 10 AM and made steady progress in bright sunshine. Eventually the sky clouded up (as we'd been told it might) but we kept a careful watch out for wind on the heights... and didn't see any. The team moved well, with many commenting that they actually felt stronger today than they had in yesterday's bid. We reached the old high point and then seemed to be getting above the clouds as we worked our way onto Vinson's summit ridge. We all thought it was going to be cold and windy on the final ridge but instead it was delightfully calm, sunny and even warm (it certainly didn't feel like the forecasted -28 C...although it might have with any wind whatsoever). The team loved the big blocky rocks and delicate traverses of the summit ridge. We got on top at 5:00 PM and stayed there for thirty minutes, shooting pictures and shaking hands. The clouds took a way a good chunk of the view possibilities, but we had glimpses enough through the mist to know we were way up in the air over Antarctica. The descent took a mere 2.5 hours and we were back in camp by 8:00 PM. Tired and happy. Our plan is for the majority of the team to rest at high camp tomorrow while I make one more try at the top with a climber who sat out today's bid. Weather permitting. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn [Transcribed audio] Hey this is Seth checking from the summit of Vinson Massif, highest point in Antarctica. Had a great day of climbing. Started out in sun, ended up in the clouds, but we were on top in almost zero wind and light snow flurries. We are up pretty high. We are going to take a couple of photos and head on back to high camp and we'll check in then. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

The Mt. Baker Easton Glacier crew for July 26 - 29 reached the summit this morning led by RMI Guides Nikki Champion and Alan Davis.  The team gathered at the trail head on Monday and spent the last few days on the mountain learning glacier travel skills.  Today they put their training to work and were rewarded with 100% of the team reaching the top.  They will spend tonight back at camp and walk out to the trail head tomorrow, concluding their program.

Nice work team!

Today was the day we have all been looking forward to. Hacienda life and acclimatization hikes have been pretty great, but we’re excited to switch gears and get to climbing. We spent the rainy morning double checking gear, packing, and looking outside hoping we’d see a break in the weather. By lunch the rain finally let up and we loaded the van headed for our final objective, Cotopaxi. We arrived at the trailhead at about 15,000’ to a thick fog, no wind, and some light snow on the ground with no views, but we were dry! We’ll take it! The team made quick work of the short hike to the hut at 16,000’. After re-organizing gear and enjoying a hot meal, we are tucked in to our sleeping bags dreaming of clear skies. Our team is strong, feeling good, and fired up to climb this volcano! RMI Guide Jess Matthews

Here's one more haiku,

The otters finally flew

We have made it back.

 

After a few long days sitting and waiting in our tents at Basecamp, K2 Aviation was able to make their way up glacier to come and grab our teams and sneak us back to Talkeetna last night.

We unpacked all the group gear, took our first shower in a long time, and got to enjoy a hot meal not prepared by an RMI guide.

After a long and challenging trip, we were all very thankful to make it back to land safe and sound.

Until next year!

Nikki

May 29, 2017 Hello, this is Eric Frank calling from the Casa De Guilles here on Huayna Potosi in Bolivia. The last couple days have been pretty interesting, yesterday a fair amount of snow fell on Huayna Potosi and we weren't really sure what we would find this morning. When we woke up the weather was good and we were able to climb up to the high Refugio in fairly comfortable conditions. Once again things changed, and it started dumping a bunch of snow so we spent most of the afternoon watching the flakes fall and clearing off the roof of our little shelter. We are just getting tucked into bed now, hopefully things will turn around in the morning. There's a fair amount of snow on route so wish us luck, we're going to make conservative decisions and see how far we can go. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Today is our third and final rest day before we head back up the Ice fall to begin our second rotation. If all goes as planned, this rotation will consist of spending one night at Camp 1 and then four nights at Camp 2 before returning back down to Base Camp. Our plan after that is then to rest for a couple of days, then to climb back up to Camp 1 and 2 and sleep as high as Camp 3 before returning back down. This would be our third rotation and the final rotation before our summit bid. Then we will rest for a week or so. If all goes well, we will make our summit push sometime in the latter part of May. Mentally and physically, this next month will be the hardest month of my life. I worry that I won't be physically strong enough to climb through all of these rotations, and that I might lose my focus. It's so mentally difficult climbing down when it took so much effort climbing up to that spot, but I do know that every time I do climb up to a point where I've been before I feel stronger and I can breathe easier. I also completely understand why we have to climb up and down for acclimatization purposes, but doing so has been a huge challenge. As difficult as it may seem, the first month of this trip has been one of the most extraordinary experiences of my life and I know this second month will be just as amazing. I've met some incredible people, and never in my life have I been more breath taken at the place that I'm in. Base Camp has begun feeling like home. I want to say hi to all my family and friends, and I want to thank everyone for the comments and support. Sara McGahan

An accomplished skier and mountaineer, RMI Guide Tyler Reid knows a thing or two about exciting ski mountaineering trips and the Chile’s Volcanoes Ski Mountaineering Expedition stands out as one of his favorites. Tyler sat down to reflect on ten of the best things about skiing the Chilean Volcanoes: 10. The Timing. September is an amazing time to be skiing, and a healthy dose does wonders for your patience level while waiting for the Northern Hemisphere winter. 9. Pisco Sours. The perfect cap on any ski day. 8. Araucarias (Monkey Puzzle Trees). Combined with the volcanic lunar landscapes, these add to the prehistoric nature of the subalpine landscapes, and you get the sensation you might run into dinosaurs at any moment. 7. Young Volcanoes. Villarica’s summit crater is a boiling cauldron. Llaima last erupted in…2009! 6. 4 Volcanoes in 10 Days. Many expeditions are lucky to climb one mountain in 10 days. 5. The Proximity. The relative spacing of these four mountains could not be more perfect. Less car time, more skiing. 4. Light Backpacks. Most international expeditions involve hauling heavy loads. Not really the case on this trip. Three out of four of these peaks we ski with day packs. 3. The Corn. There’s something about Southern Hemisphere corn that’s extra buttery (corn snow that is). 2. The Country. Chile is a land of otherworldly landscapes, interesting culture, and incredibly friendly people. 1. Aesthetic Lines. The ski descents themselves are even more impressive than the summits. Find out more about skiing Chile’s Volcanoes this September on RMI’s Chile’s Volcanoes Ski Mountaineering Expedition…

The Four-Day climb led by RMI guides, Steve Gately and Devin Guffey, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team enjoyed nice weather and a busy route. 

The team will be back at Basecamp this evening to celebrate their success and all their hard work. Nice job team!

Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:14 pm PT

Our first full day at Camp was a beautiful one! We slept in and then did a back carry to get all of our gear up to our camp here at 14,200'. Then we enjoyed relaxing and enjoying the sun for the rest of the day. 

Tomorrow is going to be a much deserved rest day!

Thanks for following.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team