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Aconcagua Expedition: Piedras Blancas Dispatch

Today we moved from Guanacos Camp to our high camp at Piedras Blancas on Aconcagua. The team moved quite well and we pulled into camp in the early afternoon with plenty of time to set up shop and have a siesta before an early dinner. The weather is the wild card here, if it is climbable tomorrow we will go for the top. If not, we are prepared to wait it out. Wish us luck. P.S. A very happy birthday to il Padrino! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

David G & team, Still watching, waiting and now really holding my breath!!! Good luck and be safe. Love you.

Posted by: Connie on 12/27/2011 at 5:38 am

Rich D.,
Hope the weather is good so you can get to the top—-and then get right back down and home to me!
XO
Christina

Posted by: Christina on 12/26/2011 at 9:16 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Turned Due to Wind Slabs

The Four Day Climb May 27 - 30 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Alan Davis reported pockets of wind slabs on the steeper portions of the route which forced the teams to turn around at 12,800’.  They enjoyed a spectacular sunrise with great views as they descended to Camp Muir.

 

Photo: Andy Bond

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Reach the Summit!

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Paul Rachele lead their teams of ALA Climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Win reported light winds, mild temperatures and an overall beautiful day. The teams began their descent from the crater rim shortly before 7 am. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. We look forward to celebrating with them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Pat Doring and team!  What a tremendous accomplishment!

Posted by: Maureen and Greg Beaton on 6/30/2017 at 6:53 am

Way to go Pat Doring.  Congratulations to you and the whole team.

Posted by: Marybeth Casey on 6/30/2017 at 3:54 am


Mt. Rainier: June 18th Update

Due to winter like conditions on Mt. Rainier this morning both the Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Seth Waterfall and the Five Day Summit Climb Team Led by Gabriel Barral were forced to turn near Disappointment Cleaver. The teams are safely back at Camp Muir and we expect a early afternoon return to Ashford Basecamp today.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to hear your safe and sound RiRi!!  Come see us in Boston again soon! :)

Posted by: Eryn on 6/19/2012 at 7:05 am

Nige, sorry the weather was against you :-( really thought you were in with a chance after them making it on Sunday .. safe trip home, see you Friday

Posted by: Zoe on 6/19/2012 at 12:47 am


Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team Summit!

Darned if I'm not standing on the top of Africa! Here on Uhuru Peak with the team. Everybody's looking good. A little beat up but not so bad; no issues. We're taking a few shots. It was a cold and windy one. Man, freezing, all layers on. But these guys know how to climb, they demonstrated it. They all did it with great style and impeccable technique. We're looking forward to a safe descent and back to that high camp sooner than later. All is well, we'll check in again later. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Mark Tucker from the Kilimanjaro Summit

On The Map

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Congratualtions, not many can say they have seen the top of a continent. Well done.

Posted by: Bob Johnson on 7/30/2012 at 8:26 am


Everest Base Camp Trek: Long and Rainy Walk Back to Lukla

A forest fire burning lower in the valley gave the skies a light haze this morning over Namche and we could catch glimpses of the smoke rising from the valley sides further down as we left our teahouse. It was warm as we walked out of Namche and descended the hill to the valley floor but by the time we reached the bottom, clouds crept up the valley to block out the sun. As we crossed the suspension bridge above the river the first few droplets of rain began to fall. Soon the rain was falling in force and thunder echoed in the mountains above, and the smoke from the fire began to dissipate. We walked through the villages below Namche, crossing back and forth across the river on suspension bridges, while the rain came and went. Before long thunder was rolling through with hardly a pause between claps and we sought refuge in the nearest shelter we could find, piling into a tiny shack on the side of the trail already full of porters also seeking refuge. Sitting crammed in the one room building, we sipped some tea heated up on a fire nearby as the thunder and lightning passed over us and faded away higher up the valley. Once all we could hear was a light rain pattering on the roof we set out on the trail again, picking our way down the trail as we skirted the small streams and puddles forming in our path. We made steady progress back down the valley, finally pausing in the village of Phakding for lunch. The rain kept coming down and we sat around the stove in the teahouse doing our best to dry out as we ate lunch. When we set out and the rain was letting up; with every step we made closer to Lukla the clouds seemed to rise equally as well. Soon we could see the fresh snow covering the base of the peaks above and all of the fields around shone a brilliant green with the arrival of spring in the lower Khumbu Valley. The cherry trees, rhododendron, and piries janponica trees were all in full bloom - pink, red, and white flowers dotted the trees bordering the fields and we kept pausing to take it all in. By late afternoon we climbed the final rocky steps of the trail and walked into Lukla. We found our teahouse and shed our packs and damp gear, finally reaching the end of the trail. We are happy to be warm and dry again after the many hours of walking in the rain today and if the weather cooperates and the clouds continue to lift we hope to catch an early morning flight back to Kathmandu tomorrow. It is a bit strange not to have more trail to cover tomorrow but we are excited to get back to Kathmandu and keeping our fingers crossed for clear skies so we can fly out! RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

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Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Enjoy Great Day at Ngorongoro Crater

A great day on Safari, according to our Kili climbing team.  We got out early (7:15 AM) on the drive to Ngorongoro Crater.  It takes a bit to drive the rough road up onto the crater rim, to cruise along that rim for miles and miles and then to drop down the steep road into the caldera itself.   Immediately upon hitting the valley floor, we saw two male lions a few hundred feet from the road.  But they might as well have been rocks.  They were sleeping so hard that we never even saw an ear twitch.   We moved on and began to encounter everything from wildebeest to jackals to hippos and Corey bustards.  The abundance of zebra and Cape buffalo and gazelles was stunning.  There were herds beyond herds stretching to the distant crater walls.  We cruised amongst the ostriches and wart hogs for hours, at one point getting great views of a Cerval Cat on the prowl.  Finally we stopped for a picnic lunch and then began our exit of the crater.  We stopped at a Maasai village on the crater rim and spent an hour with the villagers as they danced, sang, made fire, threw spears and generally explained why they choose to hang on to their traditional methods in a modern world.  Then we went back to that modern world, relaxing for the evening at the very comfortable Plantation Lodge. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Thank you Dave for the colorful and informative blog. We really enjoyed reading it and following you guys ,especially Andrew and Kylie, on this incredible experience.

Posted by: Bruce on 8/11/2022 at 6:09 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Kautz Team Summits!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit via the Kautz Glacier, a remote and technical climb on Mt. Rainier. The team had clear skies and 30 mph winds. 

This team participated in a week long training course designed to educate them to the mountaineering skills needed to tackle the world's greatest peaks. Successful completion of the Expedition Skill Seminar - Kautz makes these climbers eligible for many of our expeditions around the world, including Denali, and provides the team with a foundation for other major glaciated mountains. 

Congratulations Team! 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go, Team! The RMI guides made each challenging goal achievable and safe. I wanted to acquaint myself with alpine climbing, but this seminar provided much more.

Posted by: Thomaz Nestlehner Cardoso de Almeida on 7/17/2022 at 10:54 am

What an amazing and emotional journey!  Very appreciative for the experience and knowledge from all the guides. 

When you can please email all photos as I’m excited to revisit these moments.  Thank you!

Posted by: Brian Danney on 7/16/2022 at 1:24 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Sherpas Make Camp 1 & ABC, Climbers Take Dress Rehearsal

Finally, a breakthrough day. Our excellent Sherpa climbing team ran up to the midpoint of the icefall where we'd cached gear yesterday. They put all of that on their backs and busted on up to establish Camp 1 at approximately 19,800 ft. Two of the guys, Rinjin and Sonam then cruised on up to Camp 2 (Advanced Base Camp), claiming our campsite -which will be crucial with the mountain as busy as we expect it to be- and retrieving our ABC gear from last year ("abandoned" when the season came to an unexpected end last year). Meanwhile- Chhering, JJ Justman and I guided the climbing team on our much anticipated "dress rehearsal" for the Icefall. We were up at 3:30 AM, eating at 4 AM and walking by 4:30 AM. The intention was to travel smoothly and efficiently to the midpoint of the Icefall and return to base... as a check that the entire team would be ready for the committing step of moving to Camp 1. We did just that on another perfect weather morning. It was encouraging for all of us, and a little awe inspiring when three of the Icefall Doctors caught up and passed us as if we were standing still -all while carrying heavy and cumbersome sections of ladder to put in place at yesterday's trouble spot near the top of the Icefall. About two hours into our climb, we hit our own first real ladders and aced a half dozen awkward crossings. We took a break at the midpoint, still in deep and cool shadows and then got set for the equally challenging descent to Base. The team cruised through this test, showing the advantages of two weeks of training and acclimatizing. We were back down to the luxuries of Base Camp by 9:30 AM, feeling like we'd already put in a full day of hard work. The remainder of the day was spent resting, talking with climbers and guides from neighboring trips, and enjoying a few hours more of T-Shirt weather before we bundled up again for the late afternoon clouds. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Rock on…haha BTW, I recognize the guy in the climbing picture.  Hiking behind Hans.  Give him a hug for me.  Safe travels to Camp 1. xoxo

Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/21/2015 at 3:36 pm

Hi all together, great pictures from the icefall!!!
You are in and everybody is well and feel fine - I hope so! And thank you Dave and JJ, you are responsible guides - safety first!!!
Good weather and good luck for your next steps.
Best wishes to Hans from hot and sunny Germany - Ute

Posted by: Ute Novak on 4/21/2015 at 11:58 am


Mt. Rainier: July 11th Summit!

It is a beautiful day on Mt. Rainier. The Five Day Summit Climb July 7 - 11 led by Eric Frank and the Four Day Summit Climb July 8 - 11 led by Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reached the crater rim around 7:30 a.m. They reported clear skies, great conditions and winds ranging from 0 to none. The Five Day Kautz Climb is descending to Paradise this morning. Their entire team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday morning. Congratulations to today's summit teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

SO VERY EXCITED TO JUST READ THE NEWS!! WE ARE BOTH VERY PROUD OF OUR SON, MATTHEW AND HIS FIANCE, ELLA!!  CONGRATULATIONS TO EVERYONE IN THE GROUP, AND A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO THE GUIDES FOR LEADING THE ENTIRE BUNCH SAFELY UP ...AND BACK DOWN!! NOW GO AND CELEBRATE!

Posted by: BRENDA & LOTHAR on 7/11/2012 at 10:12 am

Congrats to Scott, Alex and the rest of the team.  What a huge accomplishment!  Looking forward to hearing all about your adventure.  Safe travels back to civilization.
love, Michelle and the entire clan

Posted by: Michelle Rico Wilsdon on 7/11/2012 at 9:53 am

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