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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Reach 14 Camp

We awoke this morning early again, trying to take advantage of another windless day. With blue skies overhead we were optimistic of our chances of getting to camp at 14,100' The crew had breakfast and struck camp as quickly and well as I've seen. Obviously they were some pretty motivated climbers. A slight breeze kept us wrapped up in most of our layers, and we even put on face protection climbing through Windy Corner. But the team climbed even better today than yesterday. However, leaving our high point of yesterday and ascending the final 700' to camp reminded us all of the big jump in elevation we were making. Although everyone climbed really well, even the strongest of the team struggled a bit with the last bit of elevation gain. But all this is expected and a normal part of the acclimatization process. An easy day tomorrow will find the team feeling better as our bodies adjust to the altitude. We're looking forward to it. Getting into camp early today allowed us to establish a nice camp, dry out sleeping bags packed in haste this morning, and settle in to our new home before the sun disappeared behind the ridge. Our bags will be especially welcome tonight. Talk with you again tomorrow. RMI Guide Brent, Leon and Lindsay

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Phil,  Just checking in on you….looks like the weather gods are on your side!  Enjoy the climb

Posted by: Susan and Kris on 5/30/2012 at 8:09 pm

Kristen…I can’t believe you are almost there!!!!  Your perseverance and determination is inspiring.  To think you only have a few thousand feet more after all these years.  It sounds like everything is going so well.  Savor this moment.  I love you. 
-Mamma Joe.

Posted by: Joe McClearn on 5/30/2012 at 2:34 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Make the Move to 14,000ft Camp

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 11:03 pm PT

Another big day in the books. After waking up to snow lightly falling at our 11,000ft camp, we had a quick breakfast and began breaking down camp. Around 10:30AM we finally began our way up Motorcycle Hill. At the top of Squirrel Hill we were met by some brutal winds and blowing snow. We worked across the Polo field, adding layers to combat the wind and blowing snow and worked our way through Windy Corner. After Windy Corner, luckily the winds died down and we were able to roll into 14,000' Camp in slightly better conditions. We joined the other RMI teams, and built our camp before making a rewarding dinner of ramen. Weather looks a bit moody tomorrow, good thing we've got a rest day on the docket.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Eric…Checking in with dad and Jill and cheering you on. Looks and sounds amazing!

Posted by: Addie Lyden on 5/27/2023 at 11:30 pm

Eric…Checking in with dad and Jill and cheering you on. Looks and sounds amazing! From Portland, Oregon

Posted by: Addie Lyden on 5/27/2023 at 11:29 pm


RMI Guide JJ Justman Notches his 200th Summit of Mt. Rainier!

RMI Guide JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on Wednesday, June 4th, 2013, marking his 200th summit of the mountain. JJ has been a mountain guide for eighteen years, leading climbers on climbs and expeditions around the world, from Mt. Rainier to Alaska to the Andes to the Himalaya, including Mt. Everest. "People often ask me how I can climb Rainier day in and day out year after year, if it ever gets old? And my answer is always the same. No," said Justman. "I climb Rainier to share the experience with first time climbers. I see the emotion on people's faces as they come down from the mountain as they say, "I can't believe I did that"! And now with 200 summits I have seen and heard that a lot from hundreds of people. And it never gets old. I look forward to sharing the unforgettable experience with many others as I climb towards 300!" Below is a compilation of photos from JJ's climbs over the years. We wish JJ a big congratulations and many more safe climbs to come! - The RMI Team Collection of JJ's Rainier Photos over the years
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

YAY JJ! That’s awesome! I was on your rope with you when you completed your 175th in 2011, it was such a great time that I am coming to do it again next week.  You’re a kickass guide!  -Andy R

Posted by: Andy on 6/5/2013 at 3:55 pm

Wow JJ ... 200 summits.  What an accomplishment!  Congratulations!!!  Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/5/2013 at 10:20 am


Team Checks in from Chilcabamba Eco Lodge

Greetings everyone from Chilcabamba Eco Lodge! We're enjoying a great rest day after our big day yesterday on Cayambe. From our spot we have an amazing panorama of beautiful green farmland surrounded by tall mountains on all sides. Most notably, a full frontal view of Cotopaxi's impressive north face! Last night we could even see the lights of the refugio on the flank of the volcano. That's going to be home in a couple of nights, and where we'll make our summit attempt from. Anyhow, the team has been spending the day drying out and organizing gear for tomorrow's hike to the refugio. We'll check in tomorrow from the refugio! Billy and the crew! Shout outs: Greetings, Nick and Cam from dad! Study hard! See you soon after exams. Julie, I love you! James says, "hello to friends and family back home!" Mena, one down one to go! Outta touch with civilization - be home soon! Casey and Sarah say, "we're having a great time, lots of stories, we'll be home soon!" Dawn: "Eating, feeling, and doing great!" Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
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Mt. Rainier: Young, McDowell & Teams Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb September 6 - 9 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today with new snow and windy conditions led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Josh McDowell. The teams did not spend much time in the crater, just taking a short break to hydrate and snack before starting their descent to Camp Muir. The program will conclude this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp with a celebration of today's accomplishments. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Great job Katelyn and Fred! So happy to hear y’all got to make it to the top this time around. I hope you enjoyed the climb and aren’t too sore afterwards! Love y’all.
Be safe coming down and getting home!

Posted by: Hayden on 9/9/2019 at 11:13 am


Mt. Rainier: ALA Climb for Clean Air Summit!

The American Lung Association Climb for Clean Air, led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Mike Uchal, reached the Mt. Rainier summit early this morning. They experienced nice weather and 25 mph winds. After spending some time on the summit, they began their descent back to Camp Muir at 6:30 a.m. Congratulations ALA Climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go ALA Team & Congratulations!

Posted by: Sue Newby-House on 7/19/2015 at 8:19 am

Thanks RMI for another great ALA climb!  We appreciate your special care and partnership.

Posted by: Joe on 7/18/2015 at 10:02 pm


Vinson Massif: Dave Hahn & Team Summit!

Update at 2:45 pm PST: Dave called with a quick update: The team is back safe at High Camp and doing very well. 11:36 am PST: Hey, this is Dave Hahn, lucky enough to be on top of the Vinson Massif, highest point in Antarctica- 16,067 ft with the entire team! We've got Larry Seaton. We've got Fatima Williamson. We've got Bill and Sara McGahan. So all of us are up here. We we can't believe our luck. We've got perfect conditions. No wind. I'm going to give you a yell either by voice dispatch or a written dispatch when we get back to camp to let you know we are safe. But right now everything is going extremely well. Everybody's feeling good. Everybody's very happy. All for now. Thank you. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from the Vinson Massif summit!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

YAY! Congratulations to the whole team. We cannot wait to hear all of the stories!
Safe travels back down the mountain.
We love and miss you and cannot wait to see you!
Lisa/Mom

Posted by: Lisa McGahan on 12/17/2013 at 5:36 pm

Congratulations everyone!  Incredibly proud of you and incredibly happy for you!  Stay safe and come home soon.  Miss you, Sara and Bill!

Posted by: Martin on 12/17/2013 at 4:02 pm


Mt. Everest: Sherpa Make Good Progress Building Route Beyond Camp 3

Hello, Dave Hahn calling down from Advanced Basecamp in the fog, 21,300'. Today was a beautiful day. Significant to us, in that a combination team of climbers building the route on the Lhotse Face succeeded in getting as far as Camp 3 and perhaps even a little bit beyond that. Fixing rope up the steep and icy Lhotse Face. We didn't want to get in the way of that today. We actually hiked up to about 22,000', towards the west shoulder. Certainly not all the way to the west shoulder, which is about 25,000' in some very steep, hard ice in that direction. But the part we could do today made for a nice hike and gave us a great view off the Western Cwm. Pretty amazing. With the exception of the snow that fell last week, it just doesn't appear to be any snow left over from the monsoon or the winter. Just bare ice up in this upper valley, and these glaciers are continuing to take a beating. On the good side, our Sherpa team, Tshering, Gyaljen, and Kaji, they successfully made a carry up here today, to ABC, carrying oxygen bottles for the summit bid. And then the three of them and Lam Babu, went back down to Basecamp. It's just myself, Dan, Seth and Yubaraj up here at ABC. All is well. Bye now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn called in from Everest Advanced Basecamp.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Beautiful pics and such interesting commentaries.  I am really enjoying the updates every day - it sure beats watching the evening news on the TV.  Wishing you guys continued good weather and safe climbing.

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/30/2013 at 12:38 am

All the best! What a privilege it must be to see such a beautiful range of mountains!

Posted by: michelle on 4/29/2013 at 5:44 pm


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Train on Cayambe, Ready to Climb

Well, some snoring happened last night.  Not light cute, cuddly snoring but the real deal.  It was coming directly from the top bunk next to mine so I now have a nice visual of what a grown man looks like when running a chainsaw with his throat.   Add to that the fun fuzzy feelings of our first night at real altitude and I think it is safe to say most of the team did not experience their best night.   

By 6 am most of us were beginning to put motion to our already awake bodies which is never easy at this height.  With a few throbbing headaches everyone was in some way experiencing a mild hangover.   This is not out of the ordinary.   

After a beautiful hike around the hut which was blessed with clear and stunning views of our summit, Antisana and Cotopaxi, the aftermath of snoring and altitude began to fade.  It is common for this mountain to sock in and get rainy by 1 pm so we all motivated in good style preparing for training session on the glacier 1,200 feet above the hut.   By 8:15 we were on the move enjoying beautiful weather and vistas.  One hour later we were putting on harnesses, crampons and helmets at 16,000 feet.  

It is clear everyone on this team has climbed in the past because going through self arrest, rope travel and cramponing on steep ice was akin to getting back on the bike.  Hannah, Jaime and I just gave a little shove and off they went, making it all look easy.  

Like clockwork the rain came in at 12:30 and we descended back to the rough accommodations of soup, cheese and crackers and hot tea.  I can certainly think of worse places to be.   After snacks we rested for a couple hours and then had dinner at 5 pm.  

As I finish this entry, the moon has begun shining through our window, the team is tucked away in bed and the Super Bowl just kicked off.  Our alarms go off at 11 pm tonight giving us a midnight departure on our first big mountain summit attempt.  Cayambe is 5 feet short of 19,000 feet so we have a big day ahead of us.  

We will give the report tomorrow after the climb.  Enjoy super bowl Sunday! 

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Leave a Comment For the Team

Ecuador Volcanoes: Beren & Team’s Decision on Cotopaxi

Greetings from Quito! Early this morning (or rather late last night), our team set off to try to climb Cotopaxi. When we woke there was a little precip, but we knew we could handle it and continued with our preparations to go see what we could do. Breaking trail through the new snow for hours this morning did little to slow down this team and we found ourselves high on the mountain before the sun had risen. At around 18,400 feet above the sea, crossing a reactive windslab above a gaping crevasse stopped us in our tracks, too risky to chance a crossing and our high point today. The team impressed me with their dedication to safety and a good time in the mountains over standing on a summit and Cotopaxi rewarded our judgment with a break in the storm to take in the sights of this beautiful mountain. Crossing crevasses, down climbing ice steps and navigating seracs in the early morning light was a real treat and we appreciated these features of the route even more as the weather rolled in for our last few moments before returning to the hut. A short nap and then down to the bus in the snow, so much for life in the tropics. It has been a real treat to share these climbs with such a good team, thanks everybody. RMI Guide Jake Beren
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brilliant decision, team and leaders:  L’chaim!

Posted by: nsb on 2/19/2013 at 5:41 am

Hurray!  Great job, everyone!

Posted by: Caroline on 2/18/2013 at 1:22 pm

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