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Aconcagua Expedition: Rest Day at Base Camp

February 5, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

Greetings from our rest day here at Plaza Argentina. After a lazy morning lounging in our tents we convened in our weather port for a terrific brunch of bacon, eggs, and of course REAL coffee. Most of us felt a bit ragged from our first night at nearly 14,000' but after a solid meal everyone seems to have bounced back and they're all enjoying another beautiful day reading, playing cards, and the like. Leon and I are spending the afternoon drinking mate and packing up our supplies for tomorrow's carry up to Camp 1. Adios, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Go Team Nugent!! Billy - excited to follow your progress on this trip. I should have gotten my stuff together last week and gone with you guys. Hopefully Cotopaxi with you in June. Safe travels in the meantime

Posted by: matt wilburn on 2/6/2012 at 5:20 pm

Big Bruce -following you here in hot Northern va.Guys at S&H worldgate also. Any chicks with you!

Posted by: ED Gramm on 2/6/2012 at 6:29 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Walter & Team Reach Summit!

July 1, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,320'

At 4:45P (PDT) Mike Walter called from the summit of McKinley: This is Mike and I’m calling from the summit of Mt McKinley! The weather is beautiful; no wind, and just a few clouds. The summit of Mt Foraker (17,400’) is 3,000’ lower than us, and Kahiltna Base Camp is 13,000’ below us! Our ascent from high camp took seven and one-half hours, which is very good time. We’re taking hero shots, hugging and congratulating each other, but soon it will be time to descend to our tents. After a well deserved rest, tomorrow we will down-climb the West Buttress and reach the thick air at 14,000’ camp. More reports will follow. Congratulations to the Mt. McKinley June 12th Team!

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Yeah team and yeah Matt!! Can’t wait to hear all about it! So proud
-Vanessa E

Posted by: Vanessa on 7/2/2012 at 2:08 pm

17400+ 3000 = 20400, so I ask again, what is it like @ 20,000 Ft ?

Posted by: Uncs on 7/2/2012 at 11:27 am

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Kilimanjaro: Team Returns to Arusha

February 20, 2012

Posted by: Jeff Martin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Hello from Arusha, We are safely off the mountain and back at the Dik Dik hotel. The team did great yesterday and everybody in the group made it to 19,340', Uhuru Peak. The day started at 11:45 pm and we were walking out of camp by 1:00 am. It was a solid six hours of climbing to reach Stella Point, and at 8:15 am we were standing on the Roof of Africa. Our timing was perfect and we pretty much had the summit to ourselves, a rarity on Kilimanjaro. The Park Service recently replaced the old summit sign with a new larger green and yellow sign. Consensus amongst most climbers is that they like the old sign better, but either way, it marks the spot of the highest free-standing mountain in the world. We took a bunch of summit photos, and then we started our descent back to high camp. This summit day was a little tougher than the usual. What started out as some light winds, soon turned into a solid 30 mph wind by the time we reached 17,000'. As the eastern horizon turned orange as the sun began to rise, the winds picked up to 40 mph. We slowly climbed onward, but it was soon becoming apparent that we might not even make the summit today. We added our shells, covered up our faces, and decided to keep going for another stretch. An hour passed and without any relief from the wind. Without stopping, we climbed for another hour and fortunately, the winds lessened as we approached the crater rim. By now it was looking a little more optimistic that we would reach the top despite the winds. We were cold and tired, but with the summit in view, we added our down parkas, and made it the last hour to Uhuru peak. We quickly descended back to HighCamp and were greeted by congratulations and a table loaded with fresh fruit and french toast. Re-fueled and re-packed, we headed down to Mweka Camp for the night. This morning we completed the trek down to the Mweka gate and then back to the Dik Dik Hotel. Now we get to put our climbing gear away and focus on the next part of our adventure - 4 days on safari. First up, Lake Manyara National Park. RMI Guide Jeff Martin & Team Simba Sita

Mount Everest: Dave Hahn & Team Getting Going

March 24, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 4,383'

The 2014 RMI Expeditions Mount Everest climb has begun. Slowly. The seven climbers and three RMI guides made their separate ways around the globe- from Canada, from Poland, and from all corners of the United States, to convene in Kathmandu and get the party started. All made it on schedule and with their luggage... a small miracle. The team fought off jet lag long enough to accomplish a few important preliminary tasks. With the help of Sagar -our Nepal agent, and Lam Babu, our Sirdar, we gathered at the Nepal Ministry of Tourism to receive our climbing permit and a short orientation slideshow from the ministers. They emphasized how important it was to bring trash off the mountain and to treat others with respect. They wished us luck and shook our hands. Back at our comfy hotel, the venerable Yak and Yeti, we sat down together for a "welcome dinner" and discussed briefly our plan for getting down to business tomorrow morning when folks have rested and recovered sufficiently. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Hi Billy and Team,

What an incredible opportunity and experience….I am so excited and proud for all of you….I know you have all trained hard for this one! Be safe, smart, and thoughtful…

God Bless, Uncle Michael

Posted by: Michael Nugent on 3/26/2014 at 8:25 am

Hi Kara and Team,
It is so reassuring to be able to follow your progress and know where you are at any given time. Kara has accumulated quite a fan base as she completes her 7th summit. She’s an inspiration to many. Tucker can’t wait to meet his Aunt Kara!
Love, Dixie

Posted by: Dixie Trunko on 3/26/2014 at 3:19 am

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Cotopaxi Express: Summit Day!

February 6, 2013

Posted by: Ben Liken, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 19,348'

Boy did we luck out this morning! After three days of being totally obscured, Cotopaxi was out and about in the stars when we woke up. The team assembled for breakfast and loaded packs for what would be a long and successful day of climbing. Breaking trail all the way up, navigating through crevasses and seracs, and enjoying spectacular views and unpredictable weather gave us a full value day in the mountains. Safely up, our thoughts turned to getting safely down and the team made it happen. Now we are showering at the Hacienda La Cienega and getting set for a victory meal! Thanks to everyone back home, we'll see you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in after their successful summit day.

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What a day! Congrats to all, gratitude to team leaders. Good news from the real world: former REI Chief named Secretary of the Interior by an enlightened President.

Posted by: nsb on 2/7/2013 at 8:38 am

Awesome job, fantastic news so proud of you barbara thank you to the whole team for having a safe climb. See you soon, very happy for all of you, great pic. Jay R. in Kalispell Montana.

Posted by: Jay R. on 2/6/2013 at 3:07 pm

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Mt. Rainier: September 2nd Update

September 2, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Tyler Reid

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Jake Beren and Ty Reid and their summit climb teams tagged the Mt. Rainier summit this morning! The summit was enveloped by a cloud cap, which created only moderate winds and saturated (not precipitating) air. Both teams had began their descent from the crater rim at 7:30 a.m. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

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Scottie, I’ve been following you since the middle of the night all the way back here in Atlanta… SO EXCITED THAT YOU AND YOUR TEAM MADE THE SUMMIT!! A HUGE CONGRATULATIONS to you!! Can’t wait to hear all about it… :)))))))—Cobe

Posted by: Coby Sillers on 9/2/2012 at 12:42 pm

CONGRATULATIONS!! Way to go! Love you Johnny :)

Posted by: Kristie Roof on 9/2/2012 at 10:00 am

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RMI Guides Depart for Shishapangma!

September 4, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News Everest

RMI Guides depart for Shishapangma (26,289’)! On the morning of September 3rd Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. guides Jake Beren, Elias De Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens, Erik Frank, Leon Davis, and Bridget Schletty departed from Ashford, WA USA, en route to the Tibetan Himalaya. Their goal is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world, Shishapangma. The team will attempt the mountain without the benefit of supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support. In addition Jake Beren has brought his skis! If conditions are right Jake hopes to make a ski descent. Stay tuned for dispatches and photos as this intrepid group of climbers make their way to the top of the mountain and home again. Safe travels!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck to you all. I’m anxious for reports and photos.

Posted by: Brian Yost on 9/8/2011 at 5:22 am

Have a great climb! Wishing you all the very best.

Posted by: Beth on 9/5/2011 at 5:00 am

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Kahiltna Seminar: Team Moves Camp and Enjoy Some Evening Ice Climbing

May 29, 2022

Posted by: Alex Halliday, Ben Luedtke, Lauren Macklin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar

May 28 7:43pm PT

The wind died today which meant that with the sun it felt very hot on the glacier today. We moved our camp south, closer to base camp and closer to some areas that have terrain features that are good for training and climbing. We spent the afternoon hiding from the sun in our new camp, We just finished an early dinner and are going do some evening ice climbing now that the temperatures have quelled.

RMI Guide Alex Halliday and Team

Mt. Rainier: Update July 6th - Summit!

July 6, 2013

Posted by: Paul Maier, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by Paul Maier and Lindsay Mann reached the summit at 6:30 a.m. Both teams were able to enjoy the bluebird views for over an hour before beginning their descent at 7:50 a.m. Congratulations to the summit climbers!

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Waiting at Basecamp

July 8, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

At 3:30 this morning I was startled awake by what I thought was the rumbling of a distant avalanche. Perhaps my mountain senses have an automatic alertness to these deep thunderous roars that will pull me from the deepest sleep. As I poked my head out of the tent door, I remembered where we are. Two days ago I broke the news to the team that a serious storm was brewing and the risk of staying at high camp, in my opinion, outweighed the reward of a potential summit. Going for the top on Monday or Tuesday would put our total time there at eight or nine days, well beyond anyone's preference. So we packed camp with heavy hearts and set off on our descent. We moved efficiently down to eleven thousand feet where we rested for six hours. The alarm went off at 5:00 am to no one's delight and we headed toward basecamp at 7:30. By 3:00 pm we were drinking MGD and relaxing in the sun. K2 aviation was optimistic about flying us off so morale, all things considered, was high. That was until one hour later the clouds moved in and it began to to snow. That was more than 24 hours ago. Now as I write this at 4 pm on Sunday, we have received two feet of snow. Welcome to Mt. McKinley! We have all just come in for lunch after two solid hours stomping down the runway so if the storm does abate, planes might fly. This is all we hope for now, the high pitch sound of propellers and don't think twice about those avalanches in the distance. This is Adam Knoff signing out.

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Thnx to all for your comments & thoughts—it meant alot to us all up there.
Even though we didn’t summit, we all had an epic time—great guides, climbing buds & I know The West Rib & The Fairview Inn will not soon forget us that “last night” in Talkeetna.
For the record, I played & sang a couple of songs at “open mic tues”—DG & Uch witnessed the “trainwreck” the extra nite we stayed.
Again, what a time…and Joe H—the cache ate your snowshoes—it wasn’t Mike’s fault!
Tim

Posted by: tim mclaughlin on 7/12/2012 at 7:20 pm

Tim, glad to hear you are all well. Look forward to your return to Wenatchee. Bart

Posted by: Bart Miller on 7/12/2012 at 10:08 am

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Most Popular Entries

Aconcagua Expedition: Rest Day at Base Camp

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Walter & Team Reach Summit!

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Kilimanjaro: Team Returns to Arusha

Mount Everest: Dave Hahn & Team Getting Going

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Cotopaxi Express: Summit Day!

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Mt. Rainier: September 2nd Update

RMI Guides Depart for Shishapangma!

Kahiltna Seminar: Team Moves Camp and Enjoy Some Evening Ice Climbing

Mt. Rainier: Update July 6th - Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Waiting at Basecamp

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