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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Weighing Their Options

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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We were up early... but that didn't do much good. The clouds snuck in again overnight and by morning it was socked in and starting to snow at 14,200 ft. For a few hours, we held out the hope that conditions would improve, but we had no such luck. The two other guided teams at 14 decided they'd seen enough and by late afternoon they packed up and took off for Windy Corner, the Kahiltna and the airstrip. We bid them goodbye, wished them good luck and turned to look at a virtually empty camp. Now, the only other team trying to climb is made up of three Danish guys in a tent about 100 ft away. Our team is in surprisingly good spirits despite the roller coaster of yesterday's fresh hopes and today's bleak realities. We'll see what tomorrow brings, but we can't wait for all that many more tomorrows. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brian,

I hope the weather allows for more progress for climbing today.  Stay safe, focus on the destination, but enjoy the journey!  We send our love! Inez and Ian

Posted by: Inez Bulatao on 7/16/2012 at 3:38 am

Dr. K.
We are awe inspired by your bravery and sense of adventure! Can’t wait to see you again, best of luck to you and your team. Hang in there, we know you will make it to the top, we are sending you light and love! Have fun in the tent! We love you and miss you! -Track A2 (the best track)

Posted by: Track A2 on 7/15/2012 at 6:53 pm

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Carstensz Pyramid:  Team Packs and Prepares in Timika

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Carstensz Pyramid

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Hello from Timika, Indonesia! It's Sara McGahan, I'm 17 years old, and you may remember me from 2011's Mt. Everest Expedition! I'm now climbing with RMI Carstensz Pyramid team. Today was spent preparing for the expedition ahead of us. We have organized gear, shopped for food, and protected everything in waterproof sacks or trash bags. This climb seems so different from any others I've done; For most of our expedition we will be hiking through a hot, humid rainforest with expected rain showers almost hourly. We must plan that everything will get wet, but we are trying to do what we can to prevent it from getting completely soaked. The culture here is also so different from anywhere else I've been in the world. There are many parts of West Papua which are still undiscovered. Some tribes have only been in contact with Westerners since the 1970's, and even now the people are still rooted in the customs and traditions of their ancestors. It is normal for some people to walk around with little to no clothing on, except perhaps for a grass skirt for the women and some shells for the men. Personally, I am fascinated by the culture here and so excited to further experience it. While it's easy to type this in a nice hotel with internet and buffet breakfasts, this seems like a one in a lifetime experience that I can't wait to begin. The terrain will be difficult both physically and mentally, but everyone in our team seems well prepared for the challenge and enthused for the adventure that awaits. We are catching a 6 am flight tomorrow to Sugapa and then headed into the jungle. That's all from Timika! Sara McGahan

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Sara, wow that sounds interesting!  Have fun!

Posted by: Candace Keach on 7/1/2012 at 4:02 am

Sara! I am so excited to follow your blog! I wish you and the team all the best :) Have fun! Can’t wait to hear all about it as you go!
Much Love,
The Girl Talk Team

Posted by: Maryashley Whitaker on 6/29/2012 at 7:10 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Hold on at 14K Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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Last night dropped over a foot of new snow and the morning dumped close to six more inches. As we hide in the midday heat of the tents, the wind blows 50+mph in gusts. One minute it is calm, the next minute we brace against the walls of the tent as the wind tries to push them flat. After a few rounds of shoveling, we break for a toasted bagel breakfast, then more shoveling, building snow walls and hiding from the gusts. The sky has cleared as we watch enormous plumes blow off the Buttress above us as well as enormous avalanches coming down from the upper slopes. Other climbers and our team our able to enjoy the show, knowing that we are a safe distance from the action. The snow currently continues to patter our tents. We are hopeful that better weather is coming on the horizon. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

From the beautiful island of Zakynthos,and a girl that knows what it means to fulfil a dream. May god watch over you and your team and bring you to the summit safely.On your next trip to Zakynthos CHRIS I want to hear all about this climb. May god be with you.
Love & hugs & kisses xx Janet

Posted by: Janet Mastromauro on 6/15/2012 at 12:51 pm

Hi Chris !!!

Hope the weather is cooperating for you and your team.
Take care and keep safe.

Posted by: Debbie Gaudette on 6/14/2012 at 7:47 pm

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Ecuador Seminar: Wittmier & Team at Chimborazo High Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 17.400'

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Yesterday we traveled south through the town of Ambato, where we learned what a 50cm burrito looks like.  Despite an exact measurement it’s still hard to imagine.  Following a comical lunch we drove through the park, Reserva Producción de Fauna Chimborazo, and continued to La Estrella de Chimborazo where we had a quiet night with delicious food and beautiful views of Chimborazo’s grand south face.

We awoke to a foggy morning and continued to relax in preparation for a difficult 24 hours.  Some members of the team practiced crevasse rescue on the porch while other’s just chilled out, enjoying the views and some local wildlife.

In the afternoon we made the two hour trek to high camp and are settled in at our highest sleeping altitude - 17,400’.  Tonight we will get an alpine start and hope for good weather on our summit attempt!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best of luck for a successful climb and cooperative weather!

Posted by: Karie Seubert on 1/23/2022 at 10:11 am

Climb Strong Team!!! Sending Prayers for Strong Lungs and Legs!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/23/2022 at 3:03 am

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Aconcagua Expedition:  Summit!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 22,841'

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Well, despite Mother Nature's best efforts 100% of our team stood on the summit of Aconcagua, South America's highest point, at approximately 1:00 pm local time. We were accosted by moderate winds and cold temps most of the evening at Camp Colera so we decided to push back our departure to 5:30 a.m. We were hoping to avoid subjecting the team to too much cold. Well, despite our best efforts to mitigate the weather, we were thoroughly brutalized by wind and cold for the entire climb except for the last 2 stretches of the descent. Our climbers all did a terrific job taking care of themselves and preventing cold injuries. They climbed so efficiently that what is normally a 12 hour summit day we accomplished in 10! Maybe it was the short/lack of breaks, maybe they all possess mutant strength... Regardless, we're heading for Aconcagua Basecamp tomorrow! RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

well big bruce i guess that is how you roll!
Congrads on reaching the summit.

Posted by: Ed Gramm on 2/16/2012 at 6:29 am

Congrats Mark and Team,
It must feel real good to breath easy.
Stay safe and return quickly.

Posted by: Steve & Corene on 2/15/2012 at 7:38 pm

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Aconcagua Expedition: Back at High Camp After Successful Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

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"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows. . . " After nearly two weeks of hard work here in the Andes, our team stood on top of the tallest mountain in either North or South America! Congratulations on a job well done. We had to earn it today, climbing through the chilly pre-dawn winds into a whiteout summit. Occasionally the surrounding peaks popped out, only to retreat behind an opaque veil that became our visual reality as we ascended the Canaleta to the summit. A fine day in the mountains nonetheless and everyone should be proud of a tough, safe and successful climb. Tomorrow we start the long voyage back to Mendoza, retracing the steps taken a few weeks ago back to civilization. Thanks for all the support from the homeland and we'll be seeing you soon. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

KATIE AND ADAM—Way to go! Have safe and beautiful.trip back to us.
Nancy

Posted by: Nancy Slocumcoals on 1/2/2012 at 6:42 pm

Trevor, congratulations on your speedy climb!!!  Was that record time or what???  We all can’t wait to hear about your adventure!
Love:  Heidi, Steve & the kids

Posted by: Heidi on 12/30/2011 at 3:44 pm

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Torres Del Paine: King and Team Complete the O Circuit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Torres del Paine

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We had hoped that the clouds would lift if we woke up early and headed for the Torres. A little rain last night and another warm morning had us walking by 4:30 am. We gained a 1500’ and walked into the clouds just before getting to the Chileno Refugio about halfway through. We waited at the Refugio to watch the clouds and see if they had any movement in them. There was no wind present to encourage the clouds to lift so with the rain increasing we made the difficult decision to head back to Central. The terrain above Chileno is rocky and filled with roots in steeper terrain. Avoiding injury in this terrain when wet and with the clouds covering the Torres seemed like the right call. 

It has been a great trek down here, lots of laughs and scenic views with a fun group. We head back Puerto Natales this morning for flights tomorrow.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Great job Mike!  Bummer that you didn’t make it to to the towers, but I’m sure there was plenty of great scenery along the rest of the trek to make up for it.  I hope the group had as much fun as we did last year!

Posted by: Mark Nelson on 2/15/2024 at 3:32 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Linden Recounts Summit Day

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 12,700'

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The days since our last dispatch were packed full of activity as we headed out to climb Island Peak. After saying goodbye to the trekking group, we walked up the Imja Khola Valley to the village of Chukung, a small collection of teahouses sitting between Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Island Peak. Our teahouse is run by a Sherpani woman and her two daughters and they welcomed us warmly, feeding us a hearty dal bhat (Nepali rice and lentils) which we unanimously agreed is the best to be found in the Khumbu. Before going to sleep we pared down our gear in anticipation of the climb, taking with us just the gear we needed for the climb. In the morning we left Chukung and made the final walk to the base of Island Peak. A sharp wind blew as we walked, making the morning feel much colder than it was, and we made our way through the dusty and rocky terrain bundled up to stay warm. We reached Base Camp by midday and settled into our tents there, enjoying the warmth of the sun through the tent walls. The wind died off by mid afternoon and we spent a comfortable evening in the tents at Base Camp. The following morning broke clear but again with a cold wind blowing through camp. We packed up our gear and headed up to High Camp. The trail climbs steeply out of camp, making tight switchbacks up the hillside. The thin alpine grasses covering the ground soon gave away to rocks and boulders as we left the last sparse vegetation behind. High Camp is tucked into the rocks on the mountain side just below 18,000' and the walking between tents required full attention, especially at those altitudes. We spent the rest of the afternoon resting and preparing for the climb. In the early evening the clouds descended over the mountain and left a thin layer of snow covering everything and we went to bed concerned that more snow could abort our summit attempt. Thankfully the night sky full of stars greeted us when we woke up just before 2am, the climb was on! We forced down a quick breakfast, no easy task at that hour or that elevation, and set off. The first few hours of climbing took us up a series of steep rocky gullies and occasional ledges. The normally tricky walking was magnified by the layer of freshly fallen snow but we made good progress, reaching the toe of the glacier just after sunrise. We strapped on our crampons and climbed up and across the glacier to the base of the headwall below Island Peak's summit. Clipping into the fixed lines there, we climbed our way up the headwall, crossing the bergshcrund and working our way up the steep icy face. The headwall was a mix of smooth ice and ledges several feet apart and it was difficult climbing, especially with no place to pause and catch our breaths. Nevertheless, the team climbed steadily and before long we stood on the ridge leading up the summit. The final hundred feet of climbing took us up a narrow snow ridge, with thousands of feet of exposure on each side, until we reached the top, a small flat area no bigger than the size of a pool table. The views from the summit were incredible, the ridge between Lhotse and Nuptse rising directly behind us, Makalu visible in the distance, Ama Dablam off to the side, and the entire upper portion of the Khumbu Valley running out below us. After a brief moment to celebrate, we turned our attention to the descent, carefully picking our way down the ridge to the top of the headwall. As we clipped into the ropes to rappel down the headwall the snow once again began to fall and the temperatures dropped, making the rope changes at the end of each rappel section difficult with cold hands. We slowly made our way down the series of five rappels to the foot of the headwall, and then recrossed the glacier back to the rocks. The final portion of the descent was very challenging with the added snow and tired legs but everyone traveled remarkably well, crossing the slick rock slabs and descending the rock steps with sure feet. We returned back to High Camp in the late afternoon and after a delicious dinner, collapsed into a deep night's sleep. This morning we descended from High Camp back to Chukung where we paused for a lunch of Sherpa Stew (thick vegetable soup) and then continued down the valley to Pangboche, at 12,700'. The change of scenery from the rocks and snow on Island Peak to the fields and juniper trees here in Pangboche is remarkable, we have spent many days up high and being back down at these (relatively) low altitudes feels great. And the warm fire burning here in the teahouse is a true treat. The team climbed incredibly well on Island Peak, doing a great job of navigating the terrain and challenging conditions. We are all feeling good and happy to be heading downhill. We descend to Namche tomorrow and will check in from there. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great report and wonderful pictures. Those are some mighty happy, pretty and tired looking faces!

Posted by: Thurston on 4/2/2012 at 8:28 am

Congrats ALL! I’m sitting here in Cannon Beach, OR watching the Pacific crash into the beach, enjoying my 2nd cup of coffee Linden (I know you have your pot!) & just got caught up on the blog.
I still literally dream (and its been almost a year now) about my summit experience with Linden, Kala Sherpa & team on ImJa Tse—thank goodness for the Sherpa who smoked that cigarette at 20k’ as we were resting in the saddle at the top of the wall—it revived me (don’t smoke, but it was kinda like smelling salts for me & cleared the cobwebs).
Nice touch in staying at High Camp one nite after Summit Day too, as that walk all the way back to ChuKung was tough last year—I vaguely remember stumbling in by the stove & almost falling asleep sitting in my plastic chair.
Enough of me—you all will forever remember this experience & it will be something you continually look back on as a source of inspiration & strength—I PROMSE!
It is truly an amazing Big Blue Ball we all get to live on & experience.
Enjoy the walk out “Into Thick Air!”
BTW—Training going well for Denali Linden—hopefully I’ll be ready. :)
Tim

Posted by: Tim McLaughlin on 4/2/2012 at 7:40 am

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Mexicos Volcanoes: King & Team Reach Summit of Pico de Orizaba

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 18,491'

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The team stood on top of Pico de Orizaba at 7:30 this morning. We had calm air and partly clear skies to begin our hike up the steep moraine trail. Once in the labyrinth the trail was covered in firm snow & ice, which was unexpected based on how dry the surrounding area was. The team was moving up the glacier around 5 am. Once on the summit the pyramid shadow cast by the rising sun greeted everyone and was a highlight of the trip. The descent is always hard on toes and knees but we got back to Piedra Grande hut and packed up for the bumpy ride down in the trucks. 

We are back in Sr. Reyes’ hostel and packed for flights tomorrow afternoon. This has been a great trip with a stellar group of climbers, especially since we had summits on Ixta via a forgotten route and a classic Orizaba summit day. Thanks for following along.  

RMI Guide Mike King

 

Photo credit: Mike Greene

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Mike!
That is Awesome!! Brings back Great memories!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/22/2024 at 7:15 am

Our son Matt was in your group enjoyed the update and pictures. Thanks for the great job as a guide and keeping everyone safe

Posted by: Barb Coble on 1/20/2024 at 5:22 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Casey Grom & Team on Liberty Cap!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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Congratulations to Casey Grom and our Liberty Ridge Climb! Nine and 1/2 hour ascent from high camp and they will descend to Camp Schurman tonight. The team is pretty tired, but great climb and beautiful weather on top!
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