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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Recap Summit Day

Wednesday, June 5, 2013 Leah awoke just before me and the first words out of her mouth when she went outside were: It's beautiful out. The sky is blue, there's no wind. I think it's the nicest day yet. And so the wheels were set in motion: firing up the reluctant stoves from their below zero degree slumber to get breakfast and hots going for the team, then waking everybody up to let them know that we were going for it again. Even with yesterday's aborted attempt that certainly burned a bit of energy, the crew was excited and ready. This time, we didn't have to break trail up to Denali Pass. At first we were nervous about the colder temps, but these concerns proved unfounded as the sun shone brightly and warmed things up. As we ascended, things just got better and better, and our climbers responded well. In fact, they climbed flawlessly today. To say that I am particularly proud of everybody would be an understatement. No slips or oops or loss of focus that seem just an inevitable thing when a large group of folks climb for twelve hours. We reached the summit at about 4:00, the first team to summit today. After the hero pictures and summit hugs, we made our way back to camp well before the sun slid over the ridge. Enjoying another dinner together was the finishing touch to a great day. We even got some singing out of one of our favorites, tired of body though he might have been, his spirit was obviously on a high. Now our thoughts go to the descent from this lofty camp. A couple of hard days and, with a little more luck, we might be seeing our loved ones soon. But for now, the cold of night is chasing me into my bed of down. Goodnight from RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah, 17,200' on Denali.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Jo congrats again my friend , well done . What do you think , Harriman Sunday ?

Mike

Posted by: mike weber on 6/7/2013 at 3:08 pm

Great news…congratulations all! Monica is a stud-ess!!! Make the descent epic with your snowboards (tobaggans). Yeehaw!

Posted by: Aaron Knox on 6/7/2013 at 8:04 am


Aconcagua: Justman & Team 100% Summit!

Hey everyone, this is JJ Justman, I have an incredible news story coming to you live on the summit of Aconcagua. Hey everyone. Everyone on Team 3 made the summit of Aconcagua at 1:30 (ART) this afternoon. 100%! The team did just absolutely fantastic. Team give a shout out to everyone back at home. [Cheers from the team!] I'll tell you its always a tough day getting up here, but the rewards are great. Beautiful day climbing. We are the only ones on the summit of Aconcagua right now. There is a little bit of wind so hopefully I'm not yelling too loud, but definitely want to let you guys know that everyone did great, everyone's safe and sound. We're gonna take a few hero shots and then we're gonna start heading down hill. Thanks for following a long. We will touch base with you when we get back to high camp. Everyone's doing great. Everyone says hello to family and friends. Take care from the summit of Aconcagua. Congratulations to Tom Shilson! Your guess of 1:23 is the winning summit time. An RMI t-shirt and hat is on its way to you! RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman from the Aconcagua Summit!

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Congratulations Todd & Big Jim.  Can’t wait to hear about the trip and see the pictures!  Be safe.

Posted by: Aaron on 1/18/2013 at 8:29 am

YEAH for Jim and Todd.  You guys are awesome.  Good job. Jana/mOm and Scott/Dad

Posted by: Jana on 1/17/2013 at 5:25 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team Arrives at Balcony

3:21 am (Nepal time) arrive at Balcony. No direct radio talk to climbers but Dawa at South Col relays that the team is all together and all doing well. Breeze down here at Base Camp and looking up, I see some high thin clouds, a few clouds setting in on some surrounding peaks but word from above is weather is OK, not too windy. During this stop they will change to a fresh bottle of oxygen and store their partially used ones in a certain spot to pick up, and possibly use on the descent. They will be working with some metal parts on the regulators during the exchange process so it's don't touch any part with bare skin or congratulations, you now have some form of frostbite on your hand. Next up, the climb to the South Summit (28,750 feet). Start up from the Balcony along the ridge to some very steep climbing, that on a dry year would be a number of rocky steps. This year conditions are very nice in that they are mostly snow covered making it a little easier and less chance of rock fall hazard. Right on schedule. Right on track. Right on Dudes upstairs. Another few hours till radio traffic but should have direct radio contact from South Summit. Drop you all a note soon. RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck with the weather tomorrow. We are rooting for you all!

Posted by: Marina on 5/20/2011 at 6:43 pm

Taos and Albuquerque LeBlancs wishing Dave and team the best!

Posted by: LeBlanc Familia on 5/20/2011 at 4:05 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise Ends Week with a Summit!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise Reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier after a week of training on the Paradise Glacier. RMI Guide Jack Delaney and Team spend three days on the Paradise glacier learning various alpine mountaineering techniques before making their way to Camp Muir for their summit attempt via the Disappointment Cleaver Route. The team had clear skies, calm winds, and beautiful views on the upper mountain.

Congratulations Team! 

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team - Change is Good

It started out like Groundhog Day as we got out to start the stoves.... socked in with clouds and light falling snow... 14,200 camp was in the soup. I joked to the gang at breakfast that there certainly wouldn't be any climbing on this day (admittedly a lame joke on the heels of so many non-climbing days). We took a few enjoyable extra minutes at breakfast since the weather was so poor outside the POSH tent. It seemed a good time to read out the comments posted on the blog (and cut and pasted into a message for us by the RMI office). We all got laughing and forgot about the storm and then a funny thing happened. We unzipped the tent, walked outside and the storm was gone. There was the usual sea of clouds just below us, but only calm, blue skies above. Within a few minutes, a plan was hatched to team up with the other guided teams at 14,200, to get the climb leaders up in the direction of those suspect slopes and to determine once again just how suspect they still were. Mountain Trip sent two guides, Alaska Mountaineering School sent three, and Tim and I went to represent RMI. Meanwhile Cody and Solveig conducted a course in ropework and belay techniques for the gang in camp. Those of us on the survey mission found ways to keep getting higher without taking unreasonable risks. It took all day long and a few mini-conferences as to the best way to proceed -we traded off the honor of being out front where trailbreaking and risk evaluation were both essential and intense jobs. By late afternoon we felt we had a good understanding of the snowpack and where we could and couldn't go. We agreed that it was reasonable to try busting through the last couple hundred feet of snow to reach the fixed ropes. We took a cautious approach, setting up good anchors and a protected belay station, since by this point we were dealing with a fairly steep slope, crevasses, and all that recent snow we've been moaning and groaning about for days. It all paid off as we reached the security of the ropes without incident. We knew we finally had a safe route to take our teams climbing toward the West Buttress in the morning. Which is just what we'll do if the weather cooperates. Having reached about 15,500 ft in elevation, it was a thrill to ramble down the "safe trail" at flank speed and spread the good news to our climbers. We still need plenty of luck, and there still may be insurmountable obstacles between us and the summit, but at least we finally get to go looking for them. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Brian, sooo happy for you and the team, amazing the difference a couple of hours make. We are home safe and sound and anxiously awaiting your return. Remember the journey is the reward….We love you and miss you very much.

XOXOXOX, Robin, Tristan and Connor

Posted by: Robin Bulatao on 7/14/2012 at 7:38 pm

hiiii daddy!:)
we just got back from hilton head, i got tanner, yeee!:D
connor and i miss you alot, and i hope your climbing thing is going ah-mazinggg!! ive been keeping you in my prayers,
loveeeee youuuuuuu!!!
-tristan:)

Posted by: Tristan Bulatao:) on 7/14/2012 at 7:22 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team readies for next rotation

Hello, It is a beautiful day at Everest Base Camp. The climbing team and I did a nice glacier walk out from Base Camp. Just enough to stretch the legs and stop at the internet cafe en-route. There has been lots of packing and loads distributed to the Sherpa team who will help carry gear up to Camp 2 tomorrow. The rest days here at Base Camp have been good for the climbing team members and it looks like tomorrow they will begin their next rotation up high. We had two members of our Sherpa Team, Lam Babu and Yubaraju, that spent last night at Camp 2. They reported that everything is ready for the climbing team to inhabit this upper camp. So, our plan is a 3:30 am breakfast, with requests of eggs, rice porridge, cold cereal and some hot drinks. The team should then be walking out of camp at 4:00 am headed for Camp 2. We are hoping for good weather and for everyone in the team to feel strong as they climb higher tomorrow. We will keep you posted. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Kilimanjaro: The Kilimanjaro Family Climb Reaches The Summit!

The Kilimanjaro Family Climb reached Uhuru Peak this morning, the summit of Kilimanjaro and the highest point in Africa! Watch their video dispatch from today's climb:

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Congratulations team Kilimanjaro Family Climb!!!  It was very fun watching your progress on facebook.  I especially enjoyed the caption contest and winning the trekking poles-thank you!  My new poles will be going along on my hiking and climbing adventures!!!  Wonderful memories for both dads and daughters, as I have when I hiked and climbed with my father many years ago!!!

Posted by: Lynette Alber on 11/4/2013 at 2:30 pm

You’ve conquered Kilimanjaro!!! Everest next??? Congratulations to the team especially the Golden ones!

Posted by: Lori Derr on 10/14/2013 at 7:59 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Summit!

Monday, June 17, 2013 Hello, this is Jake with RMI #5 standing on top of Denali with an awesome crew on an absolutely beautiful day. We'll give a shout when we get down but it doesn't get too much better than this. Thanks everybody for the support, and will be checking in from down low. Over and out. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls from the Mt. McKinley summit!

On The Map

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Wow!!!  So totally impressive and so happy for the whole team.  Congratulations on a great trip up and have a safe trip down!

Posted by: Nina Baj on 6/19/2013 at 10:14 am

We woke up on the East Coast to your most welcome audio clip from on high. How sweet the sound!

Posted by: Bill and Kathleen on 6/18/2013 at 5:30 am


Denali Expedition: Hannah Smith and Team Wait out the Weather

Evening everyone,

Who knew climbing Denali had so much resting involved in it. We all train for the heavy packs, long days, thousands of feet of elevation gained. What we don't train for is all the tent time. Time in the tent is important for our bodies to adjust to the altitude but it can be a challenge for the mind. Boredom can sink in very quickly. One must be good at self entertainment and comfortable with you, yourself, and I. It's a crucial skill of the mountain life and the team is currently learning it. Even with all the down time, today went fast. Per usual for our trip so far we had sun, we had clouds and we had snow flurries. A mixture of weather keeps it interesting. Now that we are rested we are ready to move  onward and upward. Hopefully tomorrow the weather holds and we are able to move to 14k camp. It will be a welcomed move with new views, a new camp, and likely new neighbors.

Send all your good weather vibes,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Woooo! Go Yvonne and Nathan!!! Keep crushing it. Praying to the weather gods.

Posted by: Bowie on 6/19/2022 at 8:10 am

Hey Hannah!  Sending you and your Team the best wishes for the Perfect weather!! Climb Strong and Rest Strong!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/19/2022 at 2:50 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Visit Edge of World, Prepare to Climb Fixed Ropes

Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 6:08 pm PT

Today we enjoyed another sunny rest day at 14,000' Camp. Without a breath of wind and cloudless skies we enjoyed possibly the best views of the trip so far. Frigid morning temps quickly gave way to pleasant heat as soon as the sun hit camp. After a casual breakfast we made our way across camp and over to "The Edge of the World," a stunning precipice overlooking the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna. Looking down at the tiny dots of Ski Hill camp it was hard to believe we were there just a few days ago! Before retuning to camp we reviewed the skills and gear associated with fixed rope travel in anticipation of our carry up the fixed lines tomorrow. This afternoon has been spent resting and gathering the supplies we intend to cache. As our acclimatization continues and sunny weather persists we are all feeling excited to see the upper mountain. Tomorrow should be a great day for a walk up high!

RMI Guide Henry Coppolillo

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So glad to be able to follow your adventure. Sending good energy your way as you continue to ascend. Morgan and Ed also send their regards. We keep all of you in our thoughts.

Posted by: Maria Alexandra Velez on 5/20/2022 at 3:34 pm

Thinking of you all from Scotland and hoping you have a great climb.  Charles and Jennifer

Posted by: Charles Platt on 5/20/2022 at 7:27 am

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