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I spent over a decade working as a mountain guide and many days I found myself working in very cold environments, often for weeks at a time. I carried my camera on all of these trips. One of the coldest places I worked was on Denali in Alaska while working for RMI. During those expeditions, climbers often had questions about using cameras in these cold environments. Here are a few tips that I shared with them: 1. Keep multiple batteries available. Keep them close to your body. Sleep with them. If you're not going to be using your camera for long periods of time take the battery out so that it stays warm and it's ready to go. 2. Remember that if you bring your cold camera into a warm room that condensation will rapidly fog the glass in your lens. I have found that if I bring my camera into my tent its usually not enough of a temperature gradient to cause condensation. 3. The solar kits these days are very affordable, compact, light and you would be surprised at how much charge they will provide even if it's snowing. Check out the Goal Zero kits, they will have whatever you could possibly need. 4. Camera technology changes rapidly. One major advantage of the new technology is the size of the cameras available these days offer very high performance while being slightly bigger than your iPhone. A couple of cameras that I have had success with for a pretty good dollar value are the Sony RX-100 and the Canon s100. They are sleek cameras that will fit in your pocket comfortably. Of course one thing to consider in the colder environments is that using the LCD screen will use more battery juice. Having a viewfinder like the Nikon Coolpix 7800 will provide longer battery life. 5. Keep your camera handy. The more accessible your camera is, the more images you will capture. I typically will carry my camera clipped to my backpack shoulder strap about chest height and tether it to a small locking carabiner. That way even if I drop it I will not lose it. 6. Safety first. Mountaineering is a team sport. You're tied in with other people. Just because you see a picture that you have to take right then don't forget that it's your responsibility to make sure its safe to capture that picture. Communicate with your teammates. 7. Shoot details. Shoot unique angles. Shoot to tell the story. Simply, just dropping to a knee for a different angle will improve your image. 8. IPhones make amazing images. I just recently picked up this iPhone case and modified it by drilling 2 small holes in the side of the case and installed a short tether. 9. My light and fast alpine style camera kit includes the Sony DSC-RX100, Joby Gorilla pod (be gentle with these in really cold environments as they can be fragile), a Hahnel Giga T Pro II Wireless Remote, Sandisk 32GB SD card x2, 1 ziplock bag, 1 dust cloth for the lens and the Lowpro Portland 30 case. This comes in at about just over 3lbs. _________ Jason Thompson is a Senior Guide at RMI Expeditions and a renowned photographer. He has traveled the world to places such as Alaska, Patagonia, and the Caucasus Mountains leading climbs and documenting mountain adventures through his camera lens. See his work on www.jthompsonphotography.com. Jason's recent videos include the 2013 Reel // Artist Statement and Wrangelled, which was nominated for a Coldsmoke Award. Follow Jason on Instagram at @_jt_photo.

We have left the creature comforts of Moscow and are now enjoying the creature comforts of Cheget. It is nice to be in this quaint little mountain town. Our staff here at our hotel were happy to see us once again and they prepared a celebration dinner for our arrival. Celebrating what you may ask...well, for enjoying the good life in the mountains. After dinner we are going to go for a stroll around town and we will have some photos and video of our day tomorrow. Our plan is to hike to the summit of Peak Cheget to acclimatize. Stay tuned... RMI Guide J.J. Justman

On The Map

This is Mike calling down from 17,200 on Denali. We reached the summit yesterday at about 7 p.m. on the most beautiful day I’ve ever seen up here – comfortably warm and no winds! We are cooking up a nice breakfast right now and plan on beginning our descent soon. Looking forward to seeing Billy and team at 14,000' and Brent and team at 11,000'. We plan on making it to 11K today, and then heading for the Kahiltna airstrip on Tuesday morning. Weather allowing, we hope to fly off on Tuesday. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Wednesday, June 1, 2022 6:08 pm PT

First full rest day in the books! We spent the morning sleeping in, and having a leisurely breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and bacon. The rest of the day was filled with napping, reading, and recovering.

Tomorrow, we plan to make the move to 14,000’ camp. So we've got to tidy up, and cache any trash, extra gear, and dirty socks we don't want to bring higher up the mountain.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team

Sunday, January 16, 2021 - 11:18 AM PST

The team moved up to Camp 1 at Plaza Canada today, situated at 16,500 feet.  Our packs were noticeably lighter after carrying most of our gear up to camp a few days ago.  We quickly got settled in and shored our tents against the upcoming wind.  Everyone is happy to be above basecamp and starting our push towards the summit. 

RMI Guide Nick Scott & Team

Today we will spend a couple of hours at the Otavalo Market looking for souvenirs and getting last-minute supplies for Cayambe. The afternoon will then be spent in pickup trucks on the bumpiest road you can imagine.

The team is doing great so far and staying patient with the acclimatization process. Over the past two days we did our warmup hikes on Rucu Pichincha and Fuya Fuya, getting us to elevations of 15,354’ and 13,986’, respectively. There was some off and on drizzle, but overall, both hikes went smoothly.

Tomorrow we will refresh basic mountaineering skills before making our attempt on Cayambe the following morning. Check back in the next couple of days for an update and wish us luck!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

Done and dusted! The team just crushed what is objectively the most difficult day of the trip outside of summit day. The packs are the heaviest, the altitude change is the hardest, and nerves and anxiety are usually pretty high. Everyone is always wondering how they will perform. Well, every member of this crew absolutely styled the carry! I couldn’t be prouder of all of them and all of you friends and family at home should be equally as proud. Now they have the rest of the afternoon to chill and enjoy a huge BBQ lunch prepared by our killer basecamp crew. Woohoo! Feels good to have the first one done. We will be taking another rest day tomorrow to help increase our chances of better acclimating before making the move to Camp one. High fives all around!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

 

Ode to the Rest Step

My dearest rest step, you are the absolute best

With every foot placement you give us a micro rest

These tests that make climbing the alpine possible 

Even with the heaviest pack you make us feel invincible!

And when you remember to pressure breath we can climb with no reprieve.

Oh rest step, with you we will never stop,

And we will always make the mountain top!

 

Signed

-unknown 42yr old Portland Poet

Thursday, July 4, 2013 RMI Guide Mike Walter checked in at 10:50 am PT from the summit of Cotopaxi. The entire team had reached the summit of Cotopaxi and was enjoying beautiful weather with scattered clouds and no wind. The team will descend completely today and drive to the Hosteria La Cienega for a well deserved dinner and spend the night. Congratulations to the team!

On The Map

The days since our last dispatch were packed full of activity as we headed out to climb Island Peak. After saying goodbye to the trekking group, we walked up the Imja Khola Valley to the village of Chukung, a small collection of teahouses sitting between Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Island Peak. Our teahouse is run by a Sherpani woman and her two daughters and they welcomed us warmly, feeding us a hearty dal bhat (Nepali rice and lentils) which we unanimously agreed is the best to be found in the Khumbu. Before going to sleep we pared down our gear in anticipation of the climb, taking with us just the gear we needed for the climb. In the morning we left Chukung and made the final walk to the base of Island Peak. A sharp wind blew as we walked, making the morning feel much colder than it was, and we made our way through the dusty and rocky terrain bundled up to stay warm. We reached Base Camp by midday and settled into our tents there, enjoying the warmth of the sun through the tent walls. The wind died off by mid afternoon and we spent a comfortable evening in the tents at Base Camp. The following morning broke clear but again with a cold wind blowing through camp. We packed up our gear and headed up to High Camp. The trail climbs steeply out of camp, making tight switchbacks up the hillside. The thin alpine grasses covering the ground soon gave away to rocks and boulders as we left the last sparse vegetation behind. High Camp is tucked into the rocks on the mountain side just below 18,000' and the walking between tents required full attention, especially at those altitudes. We spent the rest of the afternoon resting and preparing for the climb. In the early evening the clouds descended over the mountain and left a thin layer of snow covering everything and we went to bed concerned that more snow could abort our summit attempt. Thankfully the night sky full of stars greeted us when we woke up just before 2am, the climb was on! We forced down a quick breakfast, no easy task at that hour or that elevation, and set off. The first few hours of climbing took us up a series of steep rocky gullies and occasional ledges. The normally tricky walking was magnified by the layer of freshly fallen snow but we made good progress, reaching the toe of the glacier just after sunrise. We strapped on our crampons and climbed up and across the glacier to the base of the headwall below Island Peak's summit. Clipping into the fixed lines there, we climbed our way up the headwall, crossing the bergshcrund and working our way up the steep icy face. The headwall was a mix of smooth ice and ledges several feet apart and it was difficult climbing, especially with no place to pause and catch our breaths. Nevertheless, the team climbed steadily and before long we stood on the ridge leading up the summit. The final hundred feet of climbing took us up a narrow snow ridge, with thousands of feet of exposure on each side, until we reached the top, a small flat area no bigger than the size of a pool table. The views from the summit were incredible, the ridge between Lhotse and Nuptse rising directly behind us, Makalu visible in the distance, Ama Dablam off to the side, and the entire upper portion of the Khumbu Valley running out below us. After a brief moment to celebrate, we turned our attention to the descent, carefully picking our way down the ridge to the top of the headwall. As we clipped into the ropes to rappel down the headwall the snow once again began to fall and the temperatures dropped, making the rope changes at the end of each rappel section difficult with cold hands. We slowly made our way down the series of five rappels to the foot of the headwall, and then recrossed the glacier back to the rocks. The final portion of the descent was very challenging with the added snow and tired legs but everyone traveled remarkably well, crossing the slick rock slabs and descending the rock steps with sure feet. We returned back to High Camp in the late afternoon and after a delicious dinner, collapsed into a deep night's sleep. This morning we descended from High Camp back to Chukung where we paused for a lunch of Sherpa Stew (thick vegetable soup) and then continued down the valley to Pangboche, at 12,700'. The change of scenery from the rocks and snow on Island Peak to the fields and juniper trees here in Pangboche is remarkable, we have spent many days up high and being back down at these (relatively) low altitudes feels great. And the warm fire burning here in the teahouse is a true treat. The team climbed incredibly well on Island Peak, doing a great job of navigating the terrain and challenging conditions. We are all feeling good and happy to be heading downhill. We descend to Namche tomorrow and will check in from there. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Hello, this is the Huascaran team. We are back at High Camp after summitting the tallest peak outside of the Himalaya. We reached the summit at 8:30 AM local time. It's been a hard day, this mountain is no joke. We are at High Camp and will plan on heading down as far as we can today. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos