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Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Move to 17,000

Hello from 17,000' Camp!

We finally left 14,000' Camp. As fun as it was, we were all ready to leave. We woke up this morning with calm winds and no spin drifts off the ridge. It was a morning we couldn't pass up. The team packed up in record time and we hit the trail with big smiles. Since the team had already been on the fix lines, they crushed them. A well oil machine. One of the best views on the mountain is on the West Buttress. A rocky, snowy sidewalk with exposure on both sides. You can see all the vertical you have alreayd done. Its a great reward for a patient stay at 14k camp. The winds did show their presence towards the end of the day but this team is tough and pushed through. A hard day of walking was greeted by more hard work setting up camp. Ice walls were built to protect the tents from winds. Fingers crossed they subside a gove us the weather window we have been hoping for. Tomorrow looks like a good day to try for the summit. So as long as the wind doesn't pick up tomorrow is the day. The day we have been waiting for. Send all the good vibes and luck our way folks because we need it.

Please let the stars align,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best of luck Steven and team

Posted by: Larisa Pivnik on 6/28/2021 at 3:15 pm

Fair winds Hannah and team, looks like a go for Tuesday or Wednesday, be safe and take a moment on the summit to reflect all the hard work to get there. Good Luck.
Mom and Dad Fortier

Posted by: Robert Fortier on 6/28/2021 at 2:38 pm


Aconcagua: Beren & Team Summit!

What a proud day for our team! This morning we woke long before the sun came up and proceeded to hide from the bitter cold until a much more sensible option presented itself. All the teams left camp early turned back to protect their extremities while we enjoyed the rising sun and long summer day as we made our bid for the top. Don't get us wrong, it was a cold day but everyone managed quite well and is happy and healthy back at camp. Aconcagua was most gracious to our team today, but boy did we have to earn it. The light snow winter has left the mountain nearly bare of snow and we did not even use crampons today. Scrambling up loose rock at just under 23,000 feet is a real treat and the team rose to the challenge, huffing and puffing all the way to the roof of the Andes. All in all a great day with a stellar team. I'm certainly grateful to have gotten to share a beautiful day in the mountains with a great crew of climbers. Those of us that stood on top could not have done it without our team and though not every member shared the view today, they were all with us every step of the way. RMI Guide Jake Beren [Summit audio transcription] Hello. This is Jake Beren calling from the highest point in South America, the top of Aconcagua with a real strong team. Had a great summit day, perfect weather. We're up here with visibility in just about every direction. So, definitely proud of a real solid team and a real solid effort and we're halfway done. So we will give you a shout when we get to our camp. Thanks for all the weather help and we look forward to seeing everybody when we get back. Alright.


RMI Guide Jake Beren calls in from the Aconcagua summit!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations, finish strong and savor your accomplishment! Stay safe.

Posted by: Ken Hislop on 1/12/2013 at 11:23 pm

Great job my friends! congrats! Enjoy the beef at Pampa de Lenas, and the warm temps in Mendoza.
Gabi

Posted by: Gabriel Barral on 1/3/2013 at 3:59 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek: Team Departs Everest Base Camp

The weather moved into Everest Base Camp yesterday afternoon, the clouds settling in around the peaks and snow beginning to fall. It continued to snow on and off again all evening and into the night. The weather did have a welcome side effect thought: the clouds above and snow on the tents made temperatures a bit warmer and it never got too cold last night. When we woke up this morning everything was blanketed in a couple of inches of fresh snow. We packed all of our gear up, said goodbye to the Sherpa team at Base Camp, and headed back down the valley. The new snow on the trail actually made the walking on the glacier easier, filling in between all of the loose rocks and smoothing out the trail. After a cold morning in the shadows packing up, we quickly warmed up not long after Base Camp when the sun finally found us and we made good progress. We followed the trail back to Gorak Shep and onwards to Lobuche, where we stopped for lunch. Finally, we descended from the glaciers, rocks, and new snow above back down into the valley of Pheriche, reaching our tea-house here by late afternoon. It was a long day on the trail, with many miles to cover across difficult terrain at high altitudes, and the tea-house was a welcome sight when we finally reached it. The team was amazing today, toughing out the difficult sections of the trail and enduring the long final hours of walking to get here. We are all tired from the walk, and the many days up high, but happy to be here and heading downwards. We had a blast reading all of the comments on the Blog and want to thank everyone for their thoughts. Tomorrow, part of the group continues descending to Namche as they make their way home while the Island Peak team heads up the neighboring Imja Khola Valley to Chukung, near the base of Island Peak, to begin our climb. We will check in tomorrow from Chukung. The connection up there is sporadic so we will likely be checking in via satellite phone for the next few days. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Corell and team, I just googled Island Peak…...WOW!! Go slow, be steady and dont look down! Im praying for a safe and successful climb. You are amazing and a lot braver than me! Ill be glad when you get home.XXOO,Nancy

Posted by: nancy on 3/28/2012 at 2:31 pm

So relieved to hear that all were well at Base and that you are headed back to Namche and Lucy, Corell and DM are on to Island. Please take care of yourselves and know that we are all thinking of you and praying for you. Truly amazing. Kathryn

Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 3/28/2012 at 5:34 am


Denali National Park Mt. McKinley Expedition: Cifelli and Team Cache at 16,500’

Friday, June 20, 2025 10:02pm PDT

You must go up to go down, and go down to go up.

The team started the day with a simple yet efficient breakfast of cereal and coffee before donning their crampons, roping up, and beginning their walk out of camp at roughly 8:30 a.m.

The climb out of 14 Camp quickly gains elevation, built up by rolling slopes that offer brief stretches of reprieve before reaching the base of the fixed lines. A steep and icy headwall, the fixed lines provide both access to the upper mountain and a formidable challenge to anyone seeking passage. Installed each season by climbing rangers and maintained by guides, the fixed lines serve as a two-lane highway to Denali’s flank—the West Buttress.

The team made great progress, gaining elevation quickly as they found a rhythm in the often awkward and unfamiliar technique of fixed-line travel. After nearly 1,000 feet of “jugging” up various rope sections, the team broke through to the ridge, rounded a corner, and found shelter at the base of the Buttress—the high point for the day. Sheltered by rocky outcroppings, the team took a well-earned break while the guides collected gear to be left behind and dug out a cache.

Once the gear was stashed, the team turned and began the quite different, yet equally challenging, descent down the lines. Using arm wraps and steady footwork, they made their way down in a timely and stylish fashion.

Good snacks, a cozy tent, and the promise of a rest day awaited them upon return to 14 Camp.

RMI Guide Michael Bennet & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Such an amazing experience and kudos to the climbing rangers and guides who install and maintain the fixed lines (had to look up what that is). 14,200 ft!! All your hard work and preparation is paying off and we cannot wait to hear more and see photos.
We’re all so proud of you, Mikayla and team!
Love,
Tante Mary

Posted by: Mary McKinley on 6/22/2025 at 1:14 am

Hi dad -
It’s me wells. I’ve been missing you so much. I love you. I’m proud of you for doing hard work. It’s good that you’re okay. I’m about to go to bed, but I wanted to leave a quick comment. And I love you.
Love wells

Posted by: Wells hal on 6/21/2025 at 10:01 pm


Mt. Rainier: Hahn, Halliday & Teams Summit!

This morning RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Alex Halliday led their teams to the top of Mt. Rainier!  The weather is cloudy and smoky from some wildfires up north.  The team began their descent from the crater rim at 9:25 a.m.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats! I heard the ladder crossing was out the day before..assuming it has been repaired now? Gaining the cleaver is not too difficult now? Im planning a climb tomorrow.

Posted by: Isaiah R on 8/1/2021 at 10:40 pm

I’m so thankful for experienced guides who monitored conditions diligently and kept in communication about the bridge status.  Congrats to all!!

Posted by: Jill Follett on 8/1/2021 at 2:58 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir Training Up High

RMI Guides Brent Okita and J.J. Justman are leading the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir this week. The team hiked to Camp Muir on Monday and has spent several days training at the 10,060' camp. Today the team is receiving instruction on crevasse rescue techniques. The weather has been clear with warm temperatures. We hope the weather holds for their summit attempt tonight. Good luck to the team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

hi . my name is mike . i am brand new to the area from georgia, and a through hiker of the appalachian trail, to my surprise these mountains are nothing like im used to ;) trying to find info about hiking rainer hopefully in the peak season of 2013 . any info or traing etc.. would be very helpfull. thanks . happy hiking

Posted by: mike harris on 1/11/2013 at 10:57 am

Wishing the team much success.  A special SHOUT OUT to Phil Goss from the Trustmark Clan - we’re all rooting for ya’ Phil!

Posted by: Lorena Reyes on 9/27/2012 at 6:19 am


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Back Carry

Today saw pretty much constant snow all day long. Fortunately, the winds have remained calm and our crew was able to back-carry today despite the precipitation and stay right on schedule. We are now sitting pretty at 14,200' with all of our provisions and fuel. The weather is supposed to remain a little bit squirrelly through tomorrow which will coincide nicely with a well-deserved rest day. We spent most of the afternoon after the back-carry chilling in the posh and sport eating. Good times. The crew is in good spirits and pumped for the climbing ahead! RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope your rest day was filled with sleep, laughs, and food. Stay well, think of you all the time and each step you take gets you closer and closer. Roger Hector sends his best and is so darn proud of YOU Elizabeth.As always hugs and love.  Mom &  Dad

Posted by: Maureen Bartron on 5/27/2012 at 9:34 am

just FYI for those at home—you know that these aren’t specifically photos from this trip or this team.  the guides only have sat phones, not an internet connection! 

these are just generic pictures of the sections they are currently on…

Posted by: Mchael on 5/27/2012 at 7:43 am


Kilimanjaro: Tree Climbing Lions on Safari!

Hello from Plantation Lodge, Today we had to say good bye again to the wonderful Dik Dik Hotel and headed out on our safari. First stop on the safari circuit was Lake Manyara National Park. It's not talked about as much as some other parks in Tanzania, but it has a lot of game viewing and is the perfect introduction to safari. I have heard for many years that this park is most well known for the tree climbing lions, and after many trips without ever seeing one, I was beginning to think that this was all made up. To my surprise, this would be the day that we saw not just one, but six tree climbing lions. The lions will climb the trees to seek refuge from the hot afternoon sun and they are really hard to spot because only a leg or a tail will be hanging down from the tree branch. It had been over two years since our driver had seen one, so we were definitely lucky. The entire park sits right below the Great Rift Wall, and as we continued to tour around the park, we saw lots of elephants, impalas, hippos, zebras, wildebeest, and giraffes. We left the park feeling very good about the day's sightings. Tomorrow is Ngorongoro Crater with its 25,000 resident animals. It going to be a big day and people are excited to see this natural wonder. RMI Guide Jeff Martin & Team Simba Sita
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow!  I can’t believe I saw Kims white legs on the last picture.  It is good that Kim is letting her hair down.  Way to go Bob and Kim.. Can’t wait to hear and see more when you get back!!

Posted by: Bradley Hegman on 2/23/2012 at 9:42 am

Lucky!  I had stopped believing in them.  Nice one team.

Posted by: Seth on 2/21/2012 at 1:58 pm


RMI Guides Kel Rossiter & Geoff Schellens Discuss the AMGA Rock Guide Exam

“UNLEASH THE BEAST!” That was the battle cry for RMI guide Geoff Schellens and I (Kel Rossiter) as we explored Red Rocks Canyon (Nevada) in preparation for the AMGA Rock Guide Exam in April. It seems that a few years back a friend of Geoff’s was climbing way above his last piece of rock protection and his belayer called up to him “Place a piece!” The fellow climbing heard the command as “Unleash the beast!” let out a yell, placed a piece, and successfully powered for the top. Throughout the course of our two weeks of training and the six-day exam in Red Rocks, Nevada, Geoff and I both placed lots of rock protection pieces and certainly unleashed the beast! Familiarity with terrain is a useful advantage when guiding, so Geoff & I met up in late March to get oriented to the amazing range of climbing options and areas that Red Rocks offers and to hone our rock guiding skills in that terrain. It was a lot of hard work and it was a great experience. We’d done the same thing last year, prepping for the Rock Guide Course (the second level of the AMGA Rock program) and that was a great opportunity for me to work with another talented RMI guide toward a shared climbing objective. This year was similar, but different—we definitely enjoyed the climbing and good times together, but we were also definitely focused on the rigorous exam ahead. Often, when people are a bit anxious about something they get a “tunnel vision” that causes them to overlook the big picture; fortunately, throughout the course of the prep and exam process the beauty of Red Rocks provided Geoff and I with many moments that prompted us to keep perspective and remember the big picture. On our first day of climbing, we headed out toward the Oak Creek area. Along the way we came across a boulder upon which someone had placed the majestic skull of a sun-bleached, full-curl desert bighorn sheep. Nothing like majesty and mortality to remind one to enjoy each moment! A few days later in White Rock Springs we encountered an entire herd of full-curl bighorns; their agility on the rock seemed to mock our efforts. On the exam, with a winter weather front coming in on high winds, I was topping out on the final pitch of a climb up the “Mescalito” and found a butterfly gently moving its wings in the shelter of the wide crack I was climbing. On another day, descending from the summit of Rainbow Mountain we entered into an astounding sinewy canyon of perfect sandstone baths and gigantic ponderosa trees rooted in the moist vein of desert soil. Moving through the anxieties and unknowns of the exam process, these moments helped to frame things in perspective indeed. By the time the exam arrived, Geoff and I felt ready. In six short days the exam was over. It’ll be a week or so until we get the final marks from the exam, but regardless of outcome each of us feel positive about the entire event. It was a pleasure to connect with a fellow RMI guide and to work together toward this shared climbing goal. We’re thankful for the learning the course offered, the good times we had together climbing, the wonderful nature of Red Rocks that we enjoyed, and the support of the RMI/Eddie Bauer guide grant in a making all of possible for us—and we look forward to sharing the skills we honed there with RMI clients on many a future cliff and summit, “unleashing the beast!” RMI Guide Kel Rossiter
Leave a Comment For the Team

Dave Hahn and Team Descend from ABC

Our acclimatization and preparation are nearly finished. True to the forecasts, the jet stream is back in the Everest region. We could hear it roaring against the high summits last night from our advanced basecamp. There was some worry for Chad, Casey, Rob and Scott up at Camp Three on the Lhotse Face, but they called in at 5 AM to say that the night had been tolerable, with just occasional strong gusts playing through. Michael, Leif and myself left ABC for BC just as the Camp Three team began descending toward ABC. Spindrift avalanches fell continually off of Nuptse as we made our way down the Western Cwm. The Khumbu Icefall offered its normal challenges, except that there were hardly any people to pass or wait for at the ladder crossings. Like ABC and BC, the Icefall was deserted. Most Sherpa teams are resting or down-valley, most western climbers are taking it easy elsewhere and waiting for a "weather window". It was good for us to rejoin Mark Tucker and Seth Waterfall at Basecamp and to be back to Kumar's fine cooking. Our Sherpa team finished their carries to the South Col today, all will be in Basecamp as of tomorrow. We'll rest up, wash up, fatten up and begin looking at weather forecasts.
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