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Bolivia: Bond & Team Travel to Isle del Sol

Monday, August 5, 2024 - 5:25 pm PT

It was an early start but not an early exit as we left La Paz this morning.  A gasoline shortage in Bolivia left us scrambling to find a spot to fill up our van as we headed to Isla del Sol.  After several hours of navigating La Paz and El Alto traffic we finally made it to the highlands with views of the Condoriri mountains and Huayna Potosi.  A quick ferry and a failed short cut down a dirt road eventually led us back to the standard route through the town of Copacabana which sits right on Lake Titicaca. Yet another curve ball was thrown our way as a fiesta in the town for the Bolivian independence day shut down our route to the boat that was awaiting us to bring us to the island.  After several detours and side roads we finally made it to our private boat that would bring us to the Island of the Sun. 

Isle del Sol is a special island for the Andean people as it is the center of creation for them.  On our walk from the boat to the Eco Lodge we passed by a pre-Incan Temple, and terraces built in the 1300's for farming.  The island itself does not have cars and provides spectacular views of 6,000m peaks that we'll be heading to shortly.  It is also a perfect place for us to acclimatize at 13,000' and enjoy the laid back island life compared to the hustle and bustle of La Paz. After an excellent dinner of fresh caught trout from the lake and local beef we are settling in for bed. As I write this we are being treated to views of a massive lightning storm over the mountains, feeling thankful to be here in our comfortable casitas and headed towards the high peaks in a few days when the weather is forecasted to improve. 

RMI Guide Andy Bond

PC: Andy Bond

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Steve Gately discusses descending on the AMGA Rock Guide Course

I remember when I first stepped into the mountains. I was 11 years old and I had never seen a mountain before, let alone thought of climbing one. My father, older brother, and I traveled to the White Mountains of New Hampshire to climb Mt. Washington (6,288’). I remember finally standing on top of the boulder pile that comprises the summit and feeling the accomplishment. "I did it, I'm on top!" It was windy—a wet cold cloud had moved in during the final hour of tedious boulder hoping to the top—and even at that age I remember quickly coming to the realization that I needed to turn around and walk back down! Mt. Washington is unique in that it has a paved road to the summit along with the world’s first mountain-climbing cog railway train. My brother insisted that we descend via the train. Luckily for me, my father obliged and shortly after the train started it's descent it began pouring. Although I was cozy in a train cabin watching the rain patter off the windows, I didn't soon forget my realization: the summit is only halfway. You hear this quite often in the climbing world. The ability to efficiently descend is a crucial skill in regards to staying safe in the vertical world. Just as with standing on top of Mt. Rainier, Denali, or Mt. Everest, getting down off of a rock climb requires the same amount of focus and effort as climbing it, and in a lot of ways requires much more. Days 5 and 6 of our Rock Guide Course were focused on becoming proficient in our technical descent systems. I was paired up with RMI guide Pete Van Deventer and former RMI guide and current AMGA instructor Jeff Ward, and we traveled over to the Bunny Face Wall of Smith Rocks. On the easy and moderate multi-pitch sport climbs this area had to offer we discussed and practiced rappelling and lowering our climbers: the pro's and con's of each, when and why to use one over the other and a myriad of ways to be more efficient and provide the best experience possible for our climbers. Over the course of the next few days, we climbed a number of different routes and really got the opportunity to apply these techniques in mock guiding scenarios.  When you practice these skills for the first time—or any skill for that matter—it's usually done so in the "best-case scenario.” You start out easy so you can concentrate on the learning. In rock climbing the "best-case scenario" is pretty straightforward and easy to mitigate. Over the next several days of climbing, we learned that the best scenario rarely occurs. As guides, we need to always be prepared for the difficult scenario, and we had the benefit of climbing into some terrain that posed plenty of guiding challenges. This allowed for lots of hands on learning and problem solving. As guides, it's important that we keep our skills sharp and this course was a great reminder that that process truly never ends. 16 years ago I learned that getting to the top is only half way and 16 years later I'm still being reminded of that fact! _____ Steve Gately grew up in Boston, MA, and found his love for the mountains in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. In 2012, Steve combined his passion for teaching, climbing, and the mountains when he started guiding for RMI. Steve now guides year round for RMI, from Argentina to Alaska. Steve will be guiding not one, not two, but three trips to Aconcagua this winter!
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Mt. Rainier: Okita, Coppolillo & Five Day Climb Teams on Columbia Crest

The Five Day Climb July 22 - 26 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita & Henry Coppolillo were standing on Columbia Crest just before 7 am today.  Brent reported a gorgeous day on the mountain with very light winds.  The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 am.  They will return to Camp Muir for a short break to pack up their gear. They will then descend to Paradise and transfer back to Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Yesterday winds were high so the team did some additional glacier travel skills and explored Ingraham Flats.  These photos are from their adventure yesterday courtesy of Brent.

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Arrive Quito and Explore the City

Everyone has now arrived in Quito and I must say it was a pleasure to show up to this morning's orientation and count all nine people present.  An added bonus is that all luggage is accounted for, although one luggage lock key was lost.  Turns out those can simply be pried open with two screwdrivers.

We enjoyed a nice weather day for our city tour and Mitad del Mundo museum tour.  It was just cloudy enough to filter some of the intense equatorial sun and it also never rained.  Everybody learned at least something new about physics or practices of the indigenous peoples of Ecuador, the two main focuses at the museum.

Tomorrow we turn our focus towards getting the body moving.  As a preparation about half the team spent the afternoon cold plunging and in the sauna.  I can still taste the eucalyptus when I take a deep breath.  Anyways, that's all to say that we are feeling ready to hike Rucu Pichincha tomorrow and hopefully reach a new high point for a few of the team members!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Hanging Tough at 17,000’ Camp

June 15, 2017 Hello from 17 Camp, this is Jake Beren calling in for RMI's Denali team. We woke this morning to high winds up high and quite cold temps again. So we decided to pump the brakes and cross our fingers for tomorrow. Sorry to sound like a broken record, but we are hoping to give her a go tomorrow. So that's it from 17 Camp, a little bit more of the same, but we're all happy, healthy and hanging tough up here. So we'll give her a shot tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Bye. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from 17,000 ft on Denali.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lindsay, it’s unfortunate that you could not summit ... I would still think that the journey to 17K was an amazing experience anyways. There is always another time!

Posted by: Manish on 6/17/2017 at 5:38 am

Cheryl so sorry to hear that you weren’t able to summit but I’m sure this has been a very unforgettable experience. Wishing you a safe trip home and can’t wait to see you.

Posted by: Jo on 6/16/2017 at 4:43 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek: The Team Back in Chukung

RMI Guide Mark Tucker left a message, which was too garbled to transcribe. We did hear that the team is doing well and back in Chukung.

On The Map

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Westling and Team Arrive in Mexico City

Last night some of our team arrived in Mexico City and were welcomed by the beautiful, lit up statues in the city center. 

Today, folks had the opportunity to explore and rest for the rest of the trip ahead. Some enjoyed a walk through Chapultepec park, where tree lined sidewalks provide a nice reprieve from the bustling city. Others explored the city streets and food while also taking the day to rest. 

This evening our team finally gathered to meet and discuss our adventure ahead. 

Welcome to our Mexico's Volcanoes blog!

RMI Guide Abby Westling and Team

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Aconcagua: King & Team check in from Casa De Piedra

Aconcagua team reaches Casa de Piedra. Yesterday we had a nice overcast four hour day into Pampa las Lena's. This has been a windy and rainy trip so far. We had a nice asado last night and to celebrate New Years. We'll enjoy a quiet/unstaffed camp. We are hopeful that the rain holds off for tomorrow as we head to Plaza Argentina basecamp.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Happy New Year! Glad the weather has changed for you.
Wander is missing you but had a few good runs at the Cary trails. XO Momma & Dad

Posted by: Momma on 1/1/2023 at 11:29 am

Happy New Year!! Took the tree down today- pine needles everywhere haha! Missing you, Alison! Xoxo Lydia, Matt & Wilhelmina

Posted by: Lydia on 1/1/2023 at 11:26 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Summit Climb Team Reaches the Summit

RMI's Four Day Summit Climb Team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a beautiful day with light winds and cold temperatures. The team will return to Camp Muir for a quick break and then continue to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!
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Congratulations Casey, we saw in paradise on Saturday when they returned from their mountain school!

Posted by: Luis Carrasco on 6/12/2017 at 10:13 am


Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Enjoy Christmas Duck in May

Wednesday, May 29, 2013 Today we awoke to another beautiful day at 14,000 camp on Denali. Feeling better about the altitude we cruised down to our cache and back in no time. A cloud rolled in and brought light snow this afternoon which has surprisingly been a welcome change to the hot temps and our sunburned lips from these past few days. We were able to do a little practice with fixed lines in preparation for the real deal in a couple days. Everyone did great, even with monster lobster gloves on! Tonight, Gerald treated us to duck burritos, with duck that came all the way from New Jersey, also a welcome change then to "chicken", resembling tuna from a bag. A shout out to Emma Rose, happy birthday! RMI Guides Leah, Logan, and Brent

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Is that why you got such a big snow blower?

Posted by: Charles on 6/5/2013 at 2:27 pm

Gerald you continue to amaze us!  Stay safe and enjoy the climb

Posted by: eileen & mike meehan on 6/3/2013 at 3:15 am

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