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Iliniza Norte summit!

Our team reached the summit of Iliniza Norte at 6 pm yesterday evening. It was a beautiful afternoon, so upon arrival at the hut we decided to just go for it. We were rewarded with a lovely sunset at the summit, one of the nicer ones most of us have ever seen.

Back at the hut, we sat down for a hot meal and although it was quite tasty, Emma and I spent some time forcing people to eat. A long few days of acclimatizing is catching up with everyone, but you have to eat! The main objective lies ahead.

We are now in route to Antisana Basecamp, where we will spend two nights and hopefully be standing on top of the fourth highest peak in Ecuador less than 48 hours from now!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons team turned at high break on their summit attempt today due to high winds. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reported steady winds of 50 MPH. The team is back at Camp Schurman, 9,440’, high camp on the Emmons Glacier where they will spend the night. The seminar team will finish their expedition skills training before descending in the morning.

Congratulations Team!  

After summiting Denali on the 1st of July, our team has not stopped working. We descended from high camp yesterday morning, and continued to Camp 3 at 11,000' for dinner and some shut-eye. The former was in full effect in the form of bacon-chicken quesadillas, and the latter was in short-order, as we woke up at midnight to start our descent to Basecamp. After taking advantage of the early morning frozen snow conditions on the lower Kahiltna glacier, we arrived at Basecamp at 8:30 am. Now it's just a matter of waiting for better weather to allow planes to fly and take us back to Talkeetna. We are all napping in our tents while we anticipate sunny skies. RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team

On The Map

After two nights of being spoiled with plush mattresses and running water in the Llaca Valley Refugio the team put in a full day (16 hours) of climbing and was rewarded with a breathtaking sunrise and perfect weather on the summit of Vallunaraju at 18, 655 ft. 

With only a few hours of sleep and some hot coffee and tea, we departed Vallunaraju basecamp with a classic alpine start at 11 pm. After a 3.5-hour approach on a rugged climber’s trail, we donned our boots and crampons and climbed a full pitch of alpine ice—a highlight of the climb. We then meandered through a maze of icy crevasses and steep snow until we gained the col between Vallunaraju’s north and south summits. The beautiful alpine sunrise provided the mental boost needed to gain the summit ridge and ascend the final 300 feet of steep snow to the summit. With only a breath of wind and smiles all around, we took in the views of the greater Cordillera Blanca and got a sneak peek of what’s to come in the Ishinca Valley.

We reversed course and began our descent in the sunshine, looking down at the city of Huaraz where a hot shower and bed awaited us. With tired bodies and full hearts, we were greeted with a bowl of hot soup and tea at basecamp. We then packed up our duffels and headed back to Huaraz via the rugged trail of a "road," thankful for a safe and successful climb.

The team enjoyed a well-deserved rest day in Huaraz, just enough time to unpack and repack duffels. Today, we are headed into the Ishinca Valley where we will establish basecamp for the next five nights. We will be focusing on climbing skills and resting up for more summit attempts.

RMI Guide Tatum Whatford & Team

This morning provided blue bird skies and little to no wind. Though the air was cold at around -5F, the team broke camp, dug a cache and loaded our packs for our summit push. With Okita's team reaching the summit yesterday we once again shared the burden of equipment transportation by swapping some equipment to lighten the load. Okita's team saved some weight for their long descent to the bottom, and more importantly our load was lightened up to high camp. We are thankful for the established camp with wind walls and a ready to go kitchen. The stroke of luck rarely happens as teams do not often come up and down from high camp on the same day. As we have been saying throughout the entire trip "Patience pays" and today it most certainly did. Water boils at a fairly low temperature at this elevation. In fact, you can drink a hot cup of your favorite flavor right out of the boiling pot - a wild first for many team members. A hot dinner and soup re-energized our spirits and warmed our souls. The team is climbing strong and with a little more luck from the weather tomorrow we will make a push for the top of North America to Denali/Mount McKinley's summit at 20,320'. Wish us well for our final push! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Just a quick check in from Piedra Grande. Today was smooth as silk for our move to the hut on Orizaba. We left Puebla just after 8am and arrived at the Servimont compound at 10:15. That gave us plenty of time to pack and have a nice lunch. After that we loaded in the big 4x4 for the steep drive to the hut. We had great views of the mountain all day and everything seems to be coming together for a good climb tonight. We'll check in tomorrow morning, hopefully from the summit! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Way to go Team! Last night we had a team of five Sherpa depart from Camp 2 at 11: 30 pm en route to the South Col. They reached the South Col in just under eight hours. A few of them were also able to make a carry to Camp 3. They encountered some high winds and did an amazing job, getting most of the oxygen bottles, tents and supporting equipment to Camp 2 for the first time this season. And here they are back at Base Camp already. These guys are tough! The rest of the team did some local hiking to keep up the fitness. Teams continue to work on the upper mountain but have not placed any new rope above the Col as of yet. The route fixing group has decided to wait a few days based on forecasts of strong winds in the near future. RMI Guide and Everest Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker

RMI Guide Mike Walter led the ESS-Emmons team from Camp Schurman to Columbia Crest this morning.  After several days of training and two nights on the mountain, the team topped out just before 9 am today.  The team will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to the trailhead and return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to the Emmons Seminar Team!

RMI Guides Jake Beren and Andres Marin checked in at 7:45 a.m. PST to report they were just a few minutes from reaching the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. The teams were experiencing lights winds and cool temperatures with a cloud deck below around 7,500'. The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir.

The longest day of the year is a little redundant in a place where the sun doesn't set... we'll take it anyway. Summer has come to Antarctica. But that doesn't mean the living is easy. We still have the tail end of that storm to contend with. At least we hope it is the tail end. There is still a lot of cloud stuck on Mount Vinson, but it did seem a bit better than yesterday, on the whole. So we packed up the camp and moved up the mountain. We left Vinson Basecamp at 2:10 PM, which is not too late to be starting out (in case you are wondering). Our plan revolved around using the late evening sunshine that Low Camp is famous for. It only took us until 6:40 PM to pull in to the camp at 9,000 ft. Conditions on the route were calm, cloudy, and not exactly cold. We each did a bit of sweating, which can get problematic in a place that is perhaps -10 F but everyone took good care and we sailed through without difficulty. On the way, we picked up our cache of supplies where the Branscomb makes the big ninety degree turn from South to West, and that pretty much completed the sled hauling "approach" portion of this climb. Camp went up fast as we ran stoves for dinner and melted snow for drinking water. It is just after midnight now, and all are in bed. There is a thin layer of cloud still blocking our sun... but it isn't like it is the end of the world or anything. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map