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We made it to the mountain! We got up this morning, had a last cafe breakfast in town, and loaded the YAZ vans for the trip to Elbrus-Northside Basecamp. The YAZ is the itinerant vehicle in rural Russia, and Mike Uchal's next car. Styled like a Volkswagen van, but diesel, four-wheel drive, with nothing but the basics inside, they are built to bounce, bump, splash, and grind their way over terrain, generally at what feels like a fair amount of speed. That's exactly what we did this morning. Our drivers Igor and Yuri deftly maneuvered us over the rough four-wheel drive track that leads to base camp. Upon our arrival, we quickly erected our small city of tents, went for a walk to stretch our legs, dodged into the tents to hide from a passing rain shower, and covered up a delicious dinner of chili. Tomorrow, we'll move a load of things up to the camp on the moraine at 12,000'. We'll be in touch afterwards! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

Buenos Tardes from Campo Uno! Today the team did a fantastic job moving from Aconcagua's Basecamp in style and we rolled into camp under perfect conditions. Our carry served us well, providing a good acclimatization base for our move today. Tomorrow we will enjoy a little light activity, but mostly rest and celebrate Leon's cumpleanos. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Hi, this is Mike Walter checking in from 14,000’. We have descended the West Buttress and are back at the 14,000’ camp. Everyone is doing swell. Our plan is to continue the descent to 11,000’ and hunker down for a few hours. There we’ll ‘brew up’ hot drinks, grab something to eat and nap for a few hours. We’ll traverse the lower Kahiltna Glacier in the wee hours (when it’s coldest) headed for Base Camp. We hope to arrive at BC tomorrow morning, unless the Weather Gods have other plans in store. That’s all for now from our tired and happy crew.

On The Map

Hello once again. We went out to play today in the Alaska range. Our objective was Mt Frances which sits just north of the base camp. We are camping at 7,200 ft, Mt Frances sits at 10,450 ft. We left camp at 8 am in the cold morning air, the sun was just coming around the south buttress of Denali to touch the north buttress of Mt Hunter. Our climbing involved a glacier approach via what some people refer to as rackets or otherwise snowshoes. We then transitioned into our crampons and went climbing up a super fun 1,200 ft chute. We climbed up steep snow surrounded by beautiful Alaskan granite and pitched things out a few times, where we gained the East ridge. The views from the ridge and summit offered glimpses of some amazing features in the range. Masioli's tower sticks out in plain site as does the south face of Denali. Our problem today was that the views quickly disappeared. Some weather came in and it began to snow. We began our descent and five rappels later we were back on the glacier. Everyone did great and had a super fun time. The plan is to fly off tomorrow back into Talkeetna. A very successful trip up here in Alaska. RMI Guide Jason Thompson

Hola from Ecuador. We started our day with another bountiful and colorful breakfast this morning. The main dishes varied from yesterday's breakfast. Eggs, sausages, and mini breakfast burritos were the main attractions. Rounding out our breakfast of yogurt, papaya, mini pastries and once again fine Ecuadorian coffee. After breakfast we loaded the taxis and shuttled over to the teleferico ( or the gondola ). Which was a short 10 minute drive from our hotel through the bustling streets of Quito. The hearty breakfast was put to good use today as we had our first day of beginning our acclimatization with some physical activity. We rode the teleferico to about 13,500 ft. We then began our 3.5 hour hike up Rucu Pichincha. The weather and temperature for our hike could not have been more pleasant. We had some clouds in the area which helped to keep the temperature moderate. We all agreed that it felt splendid to stretch our legs and most importantly work our lungs, breathing hard as we hiked to nearly 15,500 ft. Conversation throughout the hike was animated, as we hiked through varied terrain of lush vegetation and some fun rocky terrain. The view of Quito throughout the day gave us an appreciation of how big this city of 2.2 million people is. We returned to our hotel in the afternoon for a few hours of free time to relax, explore local culture and prepare for our departure from Quito tomorrow morning. Dinner tonight was filled with laughs and great conversation. We are all back at the hotel this evening preparing for a good nights rest feeling satisfied with the day, looking forward to tomorrows adventures. RMI Guide Jason Thompson

The weather could not have been better last night and early today. Right now it is snowing lightly. It can sure help to have stable weather conditions for any night at 21,300' and a major bonus to have calm weather for the first night of many at that altitude. The word from above is that the team did well during the night. So well in fact, that Dave was able to rally the team early this morning for a 7:30 a.m. departure and climb to just below the Lhotse Face. That section took about an hour and forty-five minutes. We would call that part of the day, the approach to the climb. Above where they stopped is a continuous steep climb to get up to Camp 3, which sits at 23,900' more or less. Dave reports that since we have been having daily snow, the conditions on the face have improved. What we saw in the earlier part of the month was blue ice on most of the face. The previous dry winter has created a big gap between the lower angle slopes and the steep face, which is referred to as a bergshrund. If it were a wet winter with lots of snowfall, that gap could be filled in with snow making crossing much easier. At the last meeting of the teams, we decided to send up a ladder to be placed in that area if it seemed like it would help the climbers get on to the steep section. More progress was made by the fixing team above Camp 3. Sounds like the ropes are set to Camp 4, which is the South Col (26,000'), our final camp before the summit push. More work will be needed to improve the ropes from Camp 2 to the South Col but that is huge to have the initial set in place. Dave, Sara, Bill, and Linden plan on getting on the face tomorrow. This will be a taste of steep climbing at extreme altitude. The team is right on track and fired up! Till next time, RMI Guide Mark Tucker

The Four-Day teams led by RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Jackson Breen summited this morning in good weather. They reached the top at 6:00 am taking 6 1/2 hours due to many climbers on the route. The team spend time on the summit before starting their descent, they return to Paradise this afternoon.

Congratulations Team! 

Mike Haugen and our Four Day Summit Climb Team reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. The team had light winds and precipitation with limited visibility so they were not going to spend very much time on top. They have started their descent to Camp Muir and we expect the team back at Ashford Basecamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's team!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita, and Ben Ammon reached 12,200' feet before turning due to unstable snow on the route. Some of the team also took advantage of the beautiful weather to learn additional mountaineering skills at Ingraham Flats.

The RMI Mt. Baker Team led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Leif Bergstrom were standing on the summit of Mt. Baker at 1:15 pm PDT today. Henry, Leif, and Team traversed the stunning North Face of Mt. Baker to scale the ice cliff of the North Ridge route. Leif reported clear skies, light winds, and great day of climbing. They will descend via the Coleman-Deming route and make their way back to camp for the night. 

Congratulations Team!