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Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News
Elevation: 12,139'
Hello this the Dhaulagiri team. We are at the end of our fifth day of our approach to base camp at a location called Italian Camp. We are roughly at 3,700 meters. Everything has been pretty good so far. We have had really good weather on the approach. A couple of snow storms at night. The sunshine at this camp is baking us right now. We are about to have a pretty good meal here. We would like to share also that on the approach, we had a really cool encounter in one of the villages. We shared some of the supplies that we gathered over the last year from supporters who have been pitching in to bring us here. So that was really neat to share these items with a village on our way to Dhaulagiri. Everything is well like I said. We have about two or three more days to get into Base Camp from where we will be checking in once we arrive. So we hope all is well and we will keep you posted. Bye.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Italian Camp.
Posted by: Jake Beren, Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir September 9 - 13 led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Mike Walter continue their training at Camp Muir. The teams ascended on Monday from Paradise to Camp Muir. They have been working on their mountaineering skills including cramponing, rope travel, running belays and ice axe arrest. The teams have been enjoying beautiful weather and spending time on the mountain. They plan to make their summit attempt this evening.
We wish them luck!
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 21,300'
Hello, this is Dave Hahn calling from Camp 2 on Mount Everest, 21,300'. All is well. We moved up this morning from Camp 1 in perfect weather conditions, actually a little bit hot in the Western Cwm. Very much aware of the dramas playing out above us on the mountain. A number of our friends went to the summit safely and returned in these last couple of days. But, there's also been some problems up high and much of the mountain was pre-occupied these last couple of days, especially today with trying to help a climber, incapacitated high on Lhotse. And the drama is still playing out. Lam Babu, our Sirdar, is putting together a team of Sherpas who will go up tonight and try to get that individual down the Lhotse Face. So we're certainly concerned and going to be tuning in to try and back up Lam; meanwhile, trying to continue our own climb. We're all doing fine here at Advanced Basecamp. Our intention is to stage out of here tomorrow to rest and recuperate from our climb up and get ready for a climb higher. Anyway, lots of exciting times now on Mount Everest as everybody is in motion going for the top and coming down. All good for us and stay tuned. Bye for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dave Hahn calls in from Camp 2.
On The Map
We are routing for a safe summit and looking forward to hearing about it. Be safe. Blessings your way.
ABQ Uptown #985 NM/CO
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/20/2013 at 7:46 am
The team is safe and sound after our successful summit of Kilimanjaro - and a little tired at 10,000'. Everyone did great and we are ready for a little sleep after 15 hours of climbing. It's been a wonderful experience the last six days and we are all looking forward to the icing on the cake - safari and more importantly SHOWERS!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
RMI Guide Casey Grom checks in from the summit of Kilimanjaro.
On The Map
Congratulations Casey Groom and your group for your hike to the roof top of Africa. KARIBU TENA TANZANIA
Posted by: ELIAZA MMBAGA (ELLY) on 2/5/2013 at 7:42 am
Beautiful! Congrats to Holly and the whole team!
Posted by: Chris C. on 2/3/2013 at 8:19 pm
I don't mean to brag. I don't mean to boast. I like jelly on my breakfast toast and I also like every team member on the summit of Mt. Elbrus, which is where we are right now and I'll tell you what, the team did a fantastic job today. We have beautiful weather. About a 15 mph wind on top to keep us cool. But I'll tell you what the team hung in there, it was a long day climbing and everyone has their feet on the summit, up here on Europe's highest mountain, Mt. Elbrus. Thank you guys so much for following along and we will touch base with you when we get down. We still have a little bit of work to do so we're drinking some water, eating a little snack, and take some photos, and then we're gonna do the really kind of the hardest part to be honest, which is getting down but everyone is doing fantastic. We'll touch base with all of you later. Ciao from Russia.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
JJ Justman from the Mt. Elbrus Summit
On The Map
Sam et aliae et alii, Charlotte plans to pick it up on the way down.
What a thrill.
Posted by: David on 7/30/2012 at 8:20 pm
congrats on the summit! any word on the descent?
Posted by: ryan on 7/30/2012 at 10:47 am
What a commute. It seems like I left days ago to get to the office, (actually, that is true). It feels so good to get on the trail. The charm of the city is OK but being here in the Everest region of the Nepal Himalaya, is tough to beat.
The flight into Lukla is always a bit hairy for us in the back of the plane but it is business as usual for the pilots. Local support has been stellar as usual. Thank you Sagar and Kili Sherpa of High Altitude Dreams for all your hard work in getting our team to this point. We were on one of the first flights from Kathmandu to Lukla this morning, not too bumpy. We were greeted by our Lukla staff at the landing strip. All of our gear arrived in good shape and we started along the trail, our first three hour tour in the multi-day trek to Everest Base Camp. We arrived in Phakding in good style. Looking so forward to what usually is my first real sound night's sleep to the music of the Dudh Kosi river, which is situated just outside my room. Location of couple of good sized floods, one in 1977 from an avalanche off of Ama Dablam, (a nearby peak standing at 23,355 ft) and in 1985 when a glacier lake broke loose. Not to worry, I won't miss a wink over it. Love to live on the edge!
-- RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Living on the edge (of the river) is the great adventure for the day. Well, maybe the exhilarating flight on the tiny airplane between two mountains was a greater adventure. The trail is great. It is plenty busy but not overcrowded. The hike was mostly downhill, which was a great way to ease us into this trek. We are enjoying the warm weather before we move up to higher & colder ground. Mark has been encouraging us to eat food often to keep our energy up. And the tea houses serve large quantities of food. It has become a running joke in the group since John is not a big eater. John keeps claiming that he is being force fed. All kidding aside, the team as a whole is in good spirits and is getting along well.--Kim
This has been a long day, but a fantastic start to the trek. We headed for the airport at 5:00 am, trading the crowded noisy streets of yesterday for more space and speed. Mark arranged for boxed breakfasts to ensure we were nourished and ready for the trail when we arrived.
We moved through the airport smoothly and quickly - which is saying something given the throngs of people all heading off on their own adventures. Mark and the High Altitude Dreams crew were all over the details and in no time we we in the air heading for Lukla. The flight was short, the runway was shorter. It took a few minutes to collect our gear and sit down in a nearby teahouse for breakfast - again.
After a couple hours on the trail we stopped for drinks and food with a great view of Kusum Kangguru. A couple hours later we arrived at our home for the night - and had lunch - again. The rest of the day we just hung out and relaxed, saving energy for our first real uphill push. I'm sure dinner is soon. -- John
On The Map
Sounds like a great start to your adventure John & Kim. Of course John makes it sound as though you are eating as much as hiking. Glad the team is in good spirits - stay that way! Love you two~
Posted by: Kerry Ann on 3/23/2012 at 9:07 am
Hi there! This is the Kilimanjaro team checking in from our high point today at 15,200 ft. All is well on the trail. The altitude is kicking in but we're all adapting. This afternoon we are going to drop back down a few thousand feet to Barranco Camp. Tomorrow we will tackle the steepest portion of our trek; the Barranco Wall.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
Hi Tamara. Have a safe and wonderful climb. You look great!
Posted by: terry luaces on 8/6/2012 at 4:42 am
Chris!!!!! Congrats little bro…That looks like a blast…Be safe, we love you.
Posted by: Mick on 8/5/2012 at 8:26 am
Posted by: Eric Frank, Tyler Jones
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
This morning we were prepared for a day in camp as visibility was poor and the winds raged off the ridge of the West Buttress. We enjoyed a long and delicious breakfast of eggs, bacon and three cheeses on a bagel accompanied by fresh coffee. Our meandering discussion spanned many topics and ended with a break in the snow and wind.
Ten minuets later we sprung into action, prepping our packs for a carry up onto the West Buttress proper to 16,200'. We dropped our food, fuel and other supplies for our summit push. We are now set for a move up to high camp in a few days or whenever we get a break in the winds and unstable weather.
With an evening arrival back at 14k camp, we plan to recover and rest in hopes of going upward soon.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
On The Map
Michael,
So good to hear about you fellows so far. Hope the weather clears so yu can finish. Our thoughts and prayers are with you.
Mom & Dad
Posted by: Eual Conditt on 6/11/2012 at 10:21 am
Keep it going, Larry! Also, please take a picture of the icefall below 11k camp when you’re there. Last year there was a wicked triangular shaped serac that was about the bust loose!
Rock it!
Posted by: Doinidis on 6/11/2012 at 7:49 am
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Cho Oyu
Hello Everyone and welcome to RMI's 2010 Cho Oyu climb.
After some really long flights the team has all safely arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal. We are starting this journey here in Nepal which is the launching point for most Himalayan expeditions. The team has spent the last few days getting acquainted, doing some last minute shopping, and finalizing our packing. We will be flying to the capital of Tibet, Lhasa, tomorrow, then driving across the great Tibetan plateau for about a week while we acclimatize before we reach Cho Oyu base camp. Meanwhile all of our food and gear will be driving around with our Sherpa crew via a different route to meet us there. We are excited to have two of the best Sherpas with us, Tendi and Lama Babu. They have been climbing in the Himalayas for most of their lives and have climbed with RMI for the last several seasons. They have been on dozens of expeditions and between them have 14 summits of Mt. Everest! We will also be lucky to have our wonderful cook Kumar with us to help keep us well fed.
We survived the first night without a roof over our heads. Quite comfortably, by all accounts. There were no dogs barking in the night, no heavy boots clunking down wooden hallways to latrines, none of the endless coughing fits coming through the thin walls of trekking houses. Instead, we had easy breezes, the quiet rustle of comfy down sleeping bags and moonlight coming through our tent ceilings. Oh yeah, and occasionally the violent thunder of avalanches... but that didn't truly bother us. We know we've picked a safe place for basecamp far enough from the vertical walls of this enclosed valley.
The day has been spent sorting gear, talking over plans, napping, reading, eating and getting to know our Sherpa teammates. We've got great strength and experience in our Sherpa team, and we'll depend mightily on them during this trip. I'm not aware of any team attempting the mountain this season that won't be reliant on Sherpa help. Some may claim to be going with minimal support, but they will still be heavily dependent on the Sherpas who fix the route through the Khumbu Icefall, to say nothing of the route above. This is not to say that, of the many talented non-Nepalese climbers assembled here at the foot of the hill, none would be capable of climbing the mountain without Sherpa aid, but the simple fact is that such climbs are not attempted in this day and age on this route on this mountain.
There is often confusion among those not versed in Himalayan climbing as to who Sherpas are and what their various jobs may be. I'm often unnerved back home to hear people say, while hiking or working hard, that they'd sure like to have a Sherpa along to carry their pack or to do their digging. Such comments are usually made in jest and are probably for my benefit when folks know that I have spent time in Nepal and Tibet. Nevertheless, they tend to sell the real Sherpa people short.
Referring to someone as "Sherpa" is to say that they are from a tribe of mountain people in a specific region of Nepal. It is not a job designation. It doesn't simply mean "porter" and it definitely doesn't mean "servant." Early on, when the pioneering Himalayan expeditions were discovering the amazing work ethic common to the Sherpa culture, these men were trained as high-altitude load carriers. But almost from the start, there were plenty of individuals -notably Tenzing Norgay who excelled at the art of climbing, who eagerly grasped its strategies, and who exhibited just as much ambition to reach summits as any Westerner.
By this 2009 Everest season, one cannot correctly make more than a few broad generalizations about who the Sherpas are on this mountain. Many may still be farmers the rest of the year... many may still fulfill the simple yet essential role of high-altitude porter... but then there will also be a fair number of excellent mountain climbers with superior strength and skill on rock and ice who are being counted on to guide individuals and lead expeditions. Some will struggle with English, but will then surprise the heck out of you when they turn out to speak French, Korean and Japanese just fine. Some will never have been out of these valleys, but increasingly others will turn out to have traveled the world; to be putting their kids through college in Canada, India or the U.S., to be web-savvy, literate and politically astute.
Away from the Himalaya, the assertion is often made (by people who, I feel sure, mean to honor this group of climbers) that Sherpas are universally strong and across-the-board gifted with a physiology that makes high-altitude climbing a snap. True, many Sherpas have less trouble acclimatizing than those who visit these mountains from elsewhere, but it probably does Sherpas more honor to recognize their limitations than any perceived inherent advantages. They don't live on Mount Everest. The highest commonly inhabited villages are usually only around 12,000 ft to 14,000 ft in elevation. They don't have three lungs and two hearts... or any other crazy adaptation that makes climbing easy. The really humbling thing for me is to realize that my Sherpa partners are working just as hard as I am when we are clawing our way up some slope in difficult conditions with heavy packs. That climbing is difficult for them -not easy- and that they go out to do it anyway, day after day without whining, indeed while smiling and laughing. It isn't just what we see on the mountain either. For a bunch of days we walked through rough farmland where every single rock was neatly in place, where fields were endlessly being tended to, where houses were simple but always in good repair. The work ethic was obvious, uncommon and admirable.
Don't get me wrong. I'm not implying that the First Ascent team will be on holiday here. When the Sherpas we're partnering with cook and carry water and hack out tent platforms from the Lhotse Face and fix rope and get hard work done in dangerous conditions, sometimes we'll be right alongside them. And sometimes they'll be doing it while we rest or get other jobs done. And obviously the Sherpas won't be doing it for free. Money is a huge motivator in this part of the world, and expedition work turns out to produce some of the best opportunities in all of Nepal. But money doesn't adequately explain the smiles and the warmth and the friendship that our Sherpa partners will share with us on this trip. We'll try to be worthy of that friendship.
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bet you don’t miss the I-phone… gr8 job.
Posted by: emerold on 9/15/2013 at 6:22 am
Eric - Awesome accomplishment!! Wishing you continued good weather on your descent. Be safe!
Posted by: Susan and jim on 9/13/2013 at 6:11 am
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