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Alaska Seminar: Great Day for Training

Once again we woke to a beautiful morning today at the base of Mt. McKinley. Our day has been filled with technical information. We have thoroughly covered rappelling, fixed line travel, self extrication from a crevasse, and reviewed our knots and anchor systems. We will continue to put these skills to good use when we implement them into crevasse rescue scenarios. The planes have been buzzing around basecamp today dropping climbers on the glacier. The climbing season is getting underway here in the Alaskan Range. It is super fun to be right in the middle of it all. Until next time. The Alaskan Seminar is signing off. RMI Guide Jason Thompson
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Brady…Greetings to you as you gather all of this valuable information..Hope you are having fun and learning how to extricate yourself from crevasses!!!  Love you, miss you, look forward to your return!!! 
love, Mom &Dad;

Posted by: Nancy O'Mara on 5/7/2012 at 8:14 pm


Aconcagua: Team Arrives at Base Camp

Greetings from Plaza Argentina, our basecamp and new home for the next few days. Today we awoke at dawn, had a quick breakfast and crossed the ice cold Vacas River before heading up the Relinchos River Valley to Basecamp. Some of us waded the chilly waters and the more sensible among us opted for a short mule ride. Good walking weather again made our beautiful approach quite pleasant; not too hot or too cold, but just right. Here at Basecamp we are enjoying a nice siesta before dinner and tomorrow we plan to rest and adjust to this new altitude of just under 14000 feet. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Katie and Adam,
This is so great to be able to track your progess!! Pictures are beautiful!! Hope you are having a great adventure!!! Enjoy it all!!!

Posted by: Carolyn Pugh on 12/21/2011 at 11:46 am

Katie and Adam, were still watching your progress.  How very exciting.  Hope it is more than you imagined!  Enjoy, Dick and Brandie.

Posted by: Brandie on 12/20/2011 at 6:01 am


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Rest, Prepare to Move Up

Tuesday, May 23, 2023 - 9:05 pm PT

Another mellow day in the books. We woke up late to rest after our big carry yesterday. We made a big breakfast of bagels and smoked salmon before returning to our tents to rest, and prepare to move tomorrow. After spending the day reading, sleeping and preparing gear to leave we had another dinner of quesadillas and crawled into our sleeping bags for an early night.

We hope to check in from 14,000 Camp tomorrow!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Kevin! Sending best wishes for Great rest followed up by Strong Climbing!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/25/2023 at 3:31 am

Reading blogs daily. Glad to know all going well, Matt !!

Posted by: Peter J George on 5/24/2023 at 6:01 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Climbs Turned Around

The Four Day Summit Climb September 19 - 22 led by RMI Guide Billy Nugent & the Five Day Summit Climb September 18 - 22 led by Zeb Blais were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams left Camp Muir en route to the summit but were forced to turn around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300') due to a cloud cap that was descending. The cloud cap brought limited visibility and increased winds. The teams returned to Camp Muir to rest and dry out. They began their descent from Camp Muir a little after 8 am en route for Paradise. We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad you guys are safe. (Following Lissa and Joanna but glad for all of you.) You guys are a success for trying and going so far, and being willing and able to go the distance. Sorry the weather made it rough and you had to turn around at “Dissapointment Cleaver.” I’m guessing with that name, you guys weren’t the first to have to deal with having to turn around at that place. What an adventure!:)

Posted by: dawn n. on 9/23/2013 at 5:05 pm

Having made it to the top of the Cleaver with the team…  It was awesome. Rainier made it pretty clear it was in no mood to let anyone summit on Sunday.
I can’t say enough about all the RMI guides. They are great. Thanks, guys.

Posted by: Wytold on 9/23/2013 at 7:56 am


Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team at Orizaba High Camp

Just a quick check in from Piedra Grande. Today was smooth as silk for our move to the hut on Orizaba. We left Puebla just after 8am and arrived at the Servimont compound at 10:15. That gave us plenty of time to pack and have a nice lunch. After that we loaded in the big 4x4 for the steep drive to the hut. We had great views of the mountain all day and everything seems to be coming together for a good climb tonight. We'll check in tomorrow morning, hopefully from the summit! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Ready To Go!

Off to a good start down here. Everyone is in, safe and sound and after a brief orientation we kept the good times rollin' with a solid meal at Cafe Tacuba and an early night of sleep. Tomorrow we start our acclimatization with our journey to La Malinche. More later from the mountains. RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Jake, Dan! Grillin bacon wrapped filet practicing for the Ashford season. Have fun you guys!

Posted by: JJ on 3/4/2012 at 5:40 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Resting and Watching the Weather Forecasts

Today marks our fifth full day back at Base Camp since coming down from our third rotation on the mountain. The days have managed to slip by surprisingly quickly, filled with big meals, visits from friends, time spent reading, playing cards, throwing horseshoes, and most of all - resting. Tuck organized the 2011 Everest Base Camp Horseshoes Tournament a few days ago and filled our small camp with dozens of people from various teams bent on vying for the coveted crown. Besides a few errant throws - we lost a cooking pot to a high flying shoe and somehow managed to tangle a horseshoe in the prayer flags strung overhead - it was a really enjoyable afternoon. Yesterday Dave, Sara, and I spent the morning exploring the lower reaches of the Khumbu Glacier surrounding Base Camp, making our way through the tongues of rock moraine and among the fins of vertical ice that jut up from the glacier. But the overarching focus of these days has been on resting, and it has been paying off. Dave, Sara, and I are all feeling the gains from our leisurely days down here. The solid nights of sleep have calmed any minor altitude coughs and strength is seeping back into the legs. Our Sherpa team descended a few days ago as well and the whole team is now down at Base Camp, enjoying the rest and preparing for the final push. Every morning over the past few days we pull up the latest forecast and discuss the options for our summit bid. This season's weather has been unsettled to say the least and that trend has continued into the summit season. Several teams have made summit attempts over the past few days and the occasional eruption of cheering and clanging pots and oxygen bottles can be heard coming from camps as they celebrate the radio call from their climbers standing on the summit. But the summit season so far has been far from smooth and dozens of climbers have faced real challenges up there, battling high winds and cold temperatures in their attempts. While the temperatures and the snowfall are factors, our big concern is the wind. The jet stream is still playing around this part of the Himalayas, occasionally drawing close to Everest and then receding again, and causing nothing but confusion for the forecast models. The 60+mph winds reported yesterday are a sure indication the jets proximity. And so we are sitting down here, reading over the forecast every morning, hoping that these small snippets of good weather that lay scattered over the upcoming days materialize into a substantial window for us to feel confident to head up on our summit bid. Thus begins the waiting game, a trial in its own right. To sit in Base Camp after so many weeks of hard work, feeling ready and prepared for the summit bid, but stalling over the unstable weather conditions, is a huge mental challenge. On occasion a helicopter lands in Base Camp, picking up climbers returning from the summit - both those who made it successfully and those who did not but battled the cold and wind nonetheless - and whisks them back to Kathmandu in dozens of minutes. It's easy to let the mind wander to all of the luxuries and comforts that await the passengers when they disembark, but not a very helpful exercise. Nevertheless, the focus around camp remains, the days of rest are paying off, and our excitement is building for the upcoming climb. A great number of unknowns lie ahead of us, but we are feeling ready. Tomorrow we will wake up, print out the forecast, sit down in the morning sun to look over what the forecast models predict for wind speeds, temperatures, and precipitation amounts. Hopefully that window we know is coming begins to materialize. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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Linden, there is a crew of us that you took up Rainier last summer that has been following your blog.  We all wish we were with you now.  Glad to hear that you are having fun and resting for the summit.

Posted by: Smith Cooley on 5/16/2011 at 4:31 pm

Bill, that’s a cool picture of you getting ready to throw the horseshoe. Watch out for the prayer flags and cooking pots. Thanks, Linden, for the description of the waiting game and life in Base Camp. So glad it’s all paying off. We’re praying for a good weather window for the team and a safe journey. Much love.

Posted by: Mom on 5/15/2011 at 11:47 am


Mt. McKinley Expedition: Storm Day at 14 Camp

It snowed continuously through the night and all day. Finally, at six in the evening, it stopped, and we could see a bit more than a hundred feet in any direction. There was never a possibility of climbing today, so we made the best of a storm/rest day by enjoying a slow, leisurely breakfast in our dining tent. Afterward, we dug out the camp, took naps, and read books.

We managed to squeeze in a little training for the “fixed ropes” we hope to climb next. We practiced as the last snow fell and the clouds began to clear. That put us in a good position to witness the event of the day—a big avalanche roaring out of the Messner Couloir on the South Peak. We knew we weren’t in any danger from that particular couloir, but it was still sobering to be engulfed by the powder cloud thrown up by the slide. We’d heard several avalanches over the past 24 hours, but it was thrilling to actually watch one.

As we ate dinner, the clouds continued to melt away, and it was wonderful to be in actual sunshine again. Many of us found it hard to take our eyes off the mountain and all the fresh scars from sliding snow. We hope to climb the West Buttress in the morning, but that will depend on whether the new snow has had enough time to settle.

— RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I can’t imagine how intense it must have been to witness something as powerful as an avalanche! Great to hear the trip has been so amazing!

Posted by: Lawrence Chan on 6/27/2025 at 3:27 pm

The majestic beauty of it all must be breathtaking.  I have confidence that you’re in good hands and you’ll proceed only if it’s safe to do so.  Sending positive vibes.

Posted by: Kari Servais on 6/27/2025 at 9:50 am


Mt. Rainier: August 17th Team Turns Due To Weather

The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guides Same Marjerison and Nick Sinapius turned at 13,100' on their summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team climbed into a cloud camp with low visibility and unstable weather. They are back at Camp Muir and will descend to Paradise soon.

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DHAULAGIRI: Team Returns to Base Camp and Wraps Up Expediton

Hello Everybody, This is the Dhaulagiri Climbing Team we are calling here from Base Camp. We have to let you know that unfortunately there was no summit for us. As we have said in recent blogs the weather has been pretty bad for us. We have had a lot of snow and we had to turn around at the very last day. We have a few member of the team at Camp 3 and had a decent chance at a summit push, but conditions were no good. We are currently at Base Camp and will start to hike down tomorrow, and we should be back in Kathmandu in four or five days and we will try to write down details to wrap up our expedition. We have worked very hard and have been the first the first team on the mountain and the one that got the highest. It will be neat to see everybody follow in our steps all the time going up and down the mountain. Like I said, we had a ton of snow breaking trail was very difficult and we made it as high as we could. Other than that everybody is doing pretty well, and we are very satisfied with our work. Again, we were a team going unsupported and did everything on our own. Getting to where we got with day in and out snowstorms dumping up to three to four feet of snow, the work wasn’t easy. We are pretty proud of what we have done. We want to thank everybody for their support given to us, and we hope everything is going well back home. We will touch base from Kathmandu in a few days. Thanks Everybody! Talk to you all soon! RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos


Dhaulagiri Team Checking In.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Must be close to wrapped up, safe and sound.  looking forward to having our Aussie back.  Congrats to all.

Posted by: hensleys on 5/11/2014 at 1:30 pm

jAKE!!!!

Posted by: Mike PoutiTine on 5/7/2014 at 7:19 am

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