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What a commute. It seems like I left days ago to get to the office, (actually, that is true). It feels so good to get on the trail. The charm of the city is OK but being here in the Everest region of the Nepal Himalaya, is tough to beat.
The flight into Lukla is always a bit hairy for us in the back of the plane but it is business as usual for the pilots. Local support has been stellar as usual. Thank you Sagar and Kili Sherpa of High Altitude Dreams for all your hard work in getting our team to this point. We were on one of the first flights from Kathmandu to Lukla this morning, not too bumpy. We were greeted by our Lukla staff at the landing strip. All of our gear arrived in good shape and we started along the trail, our first three hour tour in the multi-day trek to Everest Base Camp. We arrived in Phakding in good style. Looking so forward to what usually is my first real sound night's sleep to the music of the Dudh Kosi river, which is situated just outside my room. Location of couple of good sized floods, one in 1977 from an avalanche off of Ama Dablam, (a nearby peak standing at 23,355 ft) and in 1985 when a glacier lake broke loose. Not to worry, I won't miss a wink over it. Love to live on the edge!
-- RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Living on the edge (of the river) is the great adventure for the day. Well, maybe the exhilarating flight on the tiny airplane between two mountains was a greater adventure. The trail is great. It is plenty busy but not overcrowded. The hike was mostly downhill, which was a great way to ease us into this trek. We are enjoying the warm weather before we move up to higher & colder ground. Mark has been encouraging us to eat food often to keep our energy up. And the tea houses serve large quantities of food. It has become a running joke in the group since John is not a big eater. John keeps claiming that he is being force fed. All kidding aside, the team as a whole is in good spirits and is getting along well.--Kim
This has been a long day, but a fantastic start to the trek. We headed for the airport at 5:00 am, trading the crowded noisy streets of yesterday for more space and speed. Mark arranged for boxed breakfasts to ensure we were nourished and ready for the trail when we arrived.
We moved through the airport smoothly and quickly - which is saying something given the throngs of people all heading off on their own adventures. Mark and the High Altitude Dreams crew were all over the details and in no time we we in the air heading for Lukla. The flight was short, the runway was shorter. It took a few minutes to collect our gear and sit down in a nearby teahouse for breakfast - again.
After a couple hours on the trail we stopped for drinks and food with a great view of Kusum Kangguru. A couple hours later we arrived at our home for the night - and had lunch - again. The rest of the day we just hung out and relaxed, saving energy for our first real uphill push. I'm sure dinner is soon. -- John
On The Map
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'
Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team calling from basecamp on Thursday, the 10th of April. We have been here now for a few days. We made some progress on the mountain. We've moved a couple of caches almost to Camp 1. We have had a few peeks of the mountain, in between a couple of severe storms that have fallen upon us. We were pretty close and a move to Camp 1 has been made. The four of us have acclimatized to that elevation, and we will try to push out there tomorrow and spend a couple of nights. The weather forecast looks favorable to us for the next couple of days. The weather here has been a little weird with really clear mornings and snowstorms pretty much every afternoon, so that has been a little interesting. We are enjoying ourselves pretty well here. Everybody is very healthy and in good spirits. We'll try to make some progress and spend our first night at altitude. We'll keep you posted with more once we make that move. We hope you are all doing very, very well. Regards from Nepal.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri's Basecamp.
JAKE!!!!!
Posted by: Mike Poutiatine on 4/10/2014 at 9:59 pm
Daily I am wearing a Tibetan-sourced St. Christopher-like disc to keep you all well and energized for the climbs ahead. These postings mean the world to me—keep them coming and POWER ON.
Posted by: nsb on 4/10/2014 at 4:56 pm
We survived the first night without a roof over our heads. Quite comfortably, by all accounts. There were no dogs barking in the night, no heavy boots clunking down wooden hallways to latrines, none of the endless coughing fits coming through the thin walls of trekking houses. Instead, we had easy breezes, the quiet rustle of comfy down sleeping bags and moonlight coming through our tent ceilings. Oh yeah, and occasionally the violent thunder of avalanches... but that didn't truly bother us. We know we've picked a safe place for basecamp far enough from the vertical walls of this enclosed valley.
The day has been spent sorting gear, talking over plans, napping, reading, eating and getting to know our Sherpa teammates. We've got great strength and experience in our Sherpa team, and we'll depend mightily on them during this trip. I'm not aware of any team attempting the mountain this season that won't be reliant on Sherpa help. Some may claim to be going with minimal support, but they will still be heavily dependent on the Sherpas who fix the route through the Khumbu Icefall, to say nothing of the route above. This is not to say that, of the many talented non-Nepalese climbers assembled here at the foot of the hill, none would be capable of climbing the mountain without Sherpa aid, but the simple fact is that such climbs are not attempted in this day and age on this route on this mountain.
There is often confusion among those not versed in Himalayan climbing as to who Sherpas are and what their various jobs may be. I'm often unnerved back home to hear people say, while hiking or working hard, that they'd sure like to have a Sherpa along to carry their pack or to do their digging. Such comments are usually made in jest and are probably for my benefit when folks know that I have spent time in Nepal and Tibet. Nevertheless, they tend to sell the real Sherpa people short.
Referring to someone as "Sherpa" is to say that they are from a tribe of mountain people in a specific region of Nepal. It is not a job designation. It doesn't simply mean "porter" and it definitely doesn't mean "servant." Early on, when the pioneering Himalayan expeditions were discovering the amazing work ethic common to the Sherpa culture, these men were trained as high-altitude load carriers. But almost from the start, there were plenty of individuals -notably Tenzing Norgay who excelled at the art of climbing, who eagerly grasped its strategies, and who exhibited just as much ambition to reach summits as any Westerner.
By this 2009 Everest season, one cannot correctly make more than a few broad generalizations about who the Sherpas are on this mountain. Many may still be farmers the rest of the year... many may still fulfill the simple yet essential role of high-altitude porter... but then there will also be a fair number of excellent mountain climbers with superior strength and skill on rock and ice who are being counted on to guide individuals and lead expeditions. Some will struggle with English, but will then surprise the heck out of you when they turn out to speak French, Korean and Japanese just fine. Some will never have been out of these valleys, but increasingly others will turn out to have traveled the world; to be putting their kids through college in Canada, India or the U.S., to be web-savvy, literate and politically astute.
Away from the Himalaya, the assertion is often made (by people who, I feel sure, mean to honor this group of climbers) that Sherpas are universally strong and across-the-board gifted with a physiology that makes high-altitude climbing a snap. True, many Sherpas have less trouble acclimatizing than those who visit these mountains from elsewhere, but it probably does Sherpas more honor to recognize their limitations than any perceived inherent advantages. They don't live on Mount Everest. The highest commonly inhabited villages are usually only around 12,000 ft to 14,000 ft in elevation. They don't have three lungs and two hearts... or any other crazy adaptation that makes climbing easy. The really humbling thing for me is to realize that my Sherpa partners are working just as hard as I am when we are clawing our way up some slope in difficult conditions with heavy packs. That climbing is difficult for them -not easy- and that they go out to do it anyway, day after day without whining, indeed while smiling and laughing. It isn't just what we see on the mountain either. For a bunch of days we walked through rough farmland where every single rock was neatly in place, where fields were endlessly being tended to, where houses were simple but always in good repair. The work ethic was obvious, uncommon and admirable.
Don't get me wrong. I'm not implying that the First Ascent team will be on holiday here. When the Sherpas we're partnering with cook and carry water and hack out tent platforms from the Lhotse Face and fix rope and get hard work done in dangerous conditions, sometimes we'll be right alongside them. And sometimes they'll be doing it while we rest or get other jobs done. And obviously the Sherpas won't be doing it for free. Money is a huge motivator in this part of the world, and expedition work turns out to produce some of the best opportunities in all of Nepal. But money doesn't adequately explain the smiles and the warmth and the friendship that our Sherpa partners will share with us on this trip. We'll try to be worthy of that friendship.
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Our Mt. Rainier Summit Climb led by Billy Nugent and Solveig Waterfall reached the crater rim at 6:59 a.m. this morning. The teams reported clear and windy skies and very cold temperatures. Billy and Solveig radioed at 8:15 a.m. that both teams started their descent back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
the only time oil and water mix well is when shaken violently… me and my brother from another mother are just too stupid to quit!!!!ha ha ha
Posted by: brad rearden on 9/4/2012 at 7:24 pm
Mark, that is just outstanding!
Posted by: keshma saujani on 9/2/2012 at 1:37 pm
Posted by: Jake Beren, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Hello from Tlachichuca,
Upon our arrival to the Piedra Grande Hut, we heard from fellow guides that they had been turned due to bad weather the night before on Orizaba. It appears as though Central Mexico has been getting hit hard these days by the weather demons, and not just on Ixta. When we woke last night a different story was being written. It was downright balmy! It did cool off as we climbed, but we enjoyed near perfect weather as we climbed through a little bit of new snow to the glacier where most fresh precipitation had been blown far away.
The team did a great job on a huge day and we all stood on top together, with great views of Mexico's volcanoes even Ixta came out for the first time all week.
Thanks to a great team, Mexico crew and fellow guides JJ and Fernando for an awesome trip!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Our Four Day Summit Climb teams failed to reach the summit this morning due to a team member falling ill and needing assistance. The teams reached 12,300’, the top of Disappointment Cleaver, before they needed to turn around. Everyone is now descending back to Camp Muir and we expect their arrival at Ashford Base Camp around 4:00pm.
What’s the end of the story?
Posted by: Tatoosh on 8/23/2013 at 9:46 pm
Our Son was part of this team. He has said over and over again how impressed he is/was with the way everything was handled! Thank you all so much!!
Posted by: Monique on 8/17/2013 at 8:17 pm
Team at the South Summit and things are great! Dawn came up a half hour ago. The sun came out and what a beautiful day. Clouds lifted and mountains all over- Kangchenjunga, Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, Makalu, as well as many more.
Went through the check list with Dave and all systems green light. They kept saying how much fun they were having, guess these guys have never been to Hawaii.
Not on top just yet, they need to traverse the ridge over to the Hillary Step. And a bit more uphill on moderate terrain before the top.
Two more hours at the most if no other climbers on the route. We are making pretty good time. Just a beautiful day on Mt. Everest!
More later,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Been following your updates here in Athens Georgia. Have a safe summit and descent
Posted by: James King on 5/20/2011 at 7:01 pm
Thank you Mark for keeping us informed in real time. Richmond, VA sends their wishes for a safe summit and return. Can’t wait for the next report! GO LINDEN!!
Posted by: Elsie Bemiss on 5/20/2011 at 5:53 pm
Posted by: Ben Liken, Paul Rachele
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,350'
The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb, led by RMI Guides Ben Liken and Paul Rachele, turned just above Ingraham Flats this morning. A storm during the night dropped one to two feet of snow at Ingraham Flats, which also caused a high avalanche danger on the upper mountain.
The teams are safely off the mountain and enjoying some time here at Rainier Basecamp with their teammates.
Posted by: Win Whittaker, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Andres Marin reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Win Whittaker had a great climb but were unable to reach the summit. The teams reported clear skies, some light winds, and pleasant temperatures.The teams are on their way to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp to celebrate this afternoon.
After a successful summit yesterday and a week of training the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons will be returning to Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Resting at Base Camp is a little bit of a deceptive phrase. It is 17,300 feet, and rest (even after weeks spent here) is hard to come by. The more days we spend here, the less restful it seems. But waiting and patience have always been part of the Everest climbing season. It is a gentle reminder that we are here climbing on the mountain's terms rather then our own. And the terms are dynamic. We have been looking closely at the weather every day, while also watching the conditions on the upper mountain slowly evolve into something more favorable for our summit bid. Yesterday our climbing Sherpa headed up to Camp 2, with their sights set on getting the higher camps built. I just heard the fast Nepali words come over the radio; they are back safely at Camp 2 after building a suitable Camp 3. It is all shaping up, but of course for us, this means only a flicker of light in the tunnel of a summit push. There is still a considerable amount of resting and waiting to be done. So now it is slow days of rebuilding our Base Camp tent platforms, card games, books and walks around the area. The team is doing well, everyone is happy and thankful to be waiting at the feet of a giant and watching carefully for the right time to climb.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Wishing you a safe summit, keep up the good work!
Posted by: Kalen Middleton on 5/11/2012 at 11:44 am
thanks for the update, Dave.
zachary zaitzeff
Posted by: zachary zaitzeff on 5/10/2012 at 11:46 am
Sounds like a great start to your adventure John & Kim. Of course John makes it sound as though you are eating as much as hiking. Glad the team is in good spirits - stay that way! Love you two~
Posted by: Kerry Ann on 3/23/2012 at 9:07 am
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