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Mt. Rainier: Davis, Burns and Team Top Out Early

RMI Guides Alan Davis and Seth Burns led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier in the wee hours of the morning. The team was on Columbia Crest at 3:45am. They reported good route conditions and are currently on their descent. 

Nice work team!

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Summits!

After a full week of training on the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli said the Kautz route was in awesome shape. They left the crater rim around 9:30 am and will return to their camp for a final night on the mountain. The skills acquired will help these climbers pursue more advanced climbs like Denali, Aconcagua, or Mt. Baker North Ridge.

Congratulations team! 

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Hanging at 14,000ft Camp

Wednesday, June 23, 2021 - 9:54 pm PT

Hello hello,

There isnt a lot to report today. It was another chill day, hanging around our camp. We watched other teams do their carries or move into camp. More teams have arrived at 14,000' Camp. Everyone is trying to get in a good position for the next snow storm. During dinner the winds picked up and snow began to fall. The sound of the snow on the tents is a nice lull to fall asleep too. More snow is expected for tomorrow, so we will be hanging around camp again. Still patient. Still waiting. But our time will come. For now we are all snuggled into our sleeping bags, warming up our sleeping space.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

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Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Descend Through the Mweka Gate

Our long summit day yesterday was rewarded with a deep, well deserved slumber last night. It was good to be back in the thick air of 10,000', but our return to the rain forest seemed relatively abrupt after having spent the last five days in the arid conditions up high on Kilimanjaro. Camp was abuzz with activity early this morning as the staff from all the teams awoke on this last day with the anticipation of returning home, taking showers and seeing loved ones overwhelmed any desire to sleep in. As per tradition, we were bid farewell by our mountain staff with song and dance. Amazing voices and an appreciation for each other was obvious as the team went back and forth between chorus and lead singing, performing some traditional Tanzanian songs. The hike out to the trailhead was quick as this strong cast of climbers grew stronger with every foot of elevation lost. Our last mountain lunch - a traditional Tanzanian meal - was taken at the trailhead before our 2+ hour drive back to our hotel. Showers were foremost on our minds to wash the seven days of dust, sweat and Kilimanjaro dirt off our selves. We'll be celebrating tonight at dinner, enjoying each other's company before starting off on our next adventure, the safari. Unfortunately, we'll be losing Darren from the group as he'll be flying back to loved ones and life back home. So... next up we'll be reporting from the wilds of Africa. The stuff we've marveled at on TV or the National Geographic. Until then, RMI Guide Brent Okita
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Congratulations!!  I can’t imagine what everybody had to go through to Summit. I hope everybody found what they were looking for on that mountain. My heart goes out to everyone ,  And to you Mary,wow you are something else.LU .

Posted by: David Workman on 7/29/2019 at 10:43 am


Aconcagua: Beren & Team Rested and It Was Good

With the winds at an all time low and the sun shining strong, our rest day at Camp I is at full power. This morning while we waited for our camp side stream to return to liquid, the team collected their cache a few hundred feet below. The remaining morning and early afternoon was spent in maximum rest mode. In a few minutes we will embark on a short acclimating hike uphill to stir the oxygen tanks and activate the circulation pumps. Needless to say we are happy and enjoying the mountain air, or at least what is left at 16,400 feet. Tomorrow we plan to carry a load to Camp II and our team is primed to do so. Until mañana... RMI Guide Jake Beren
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JARED!!! We all miss you! Keep at it, take lots of pictures and most importantly..HAVE FUN :)

Posted by: Trisha on 12/29/2012 at 9:41 am

Jared keep going. You got this. Hey Brian! Hi Trisha. Love you guys.

Posted by: Kai & Dip & Ru on 12/29/2012 at 9:18 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Receive A Big Helping Hand

Today we awoke to 6 inches of new snow at 14k camp. We have continued to eat well. Today our breakfast consisted of egg, cheese and bacon burritos. Over the course of the morning the clouds dissipated and the wind calmed down a little. Eric and I decided to head up and move the cache we previously left at 16k, up to our high camp. We also added an extra food bag and fuel can to our supplies up high. With Brent Okita and team up at high camp for the last several days, waiting for their window to summit, they offered a big helping hand. Thanks Brent, Leon, and Lindsay! Due to high winds in the morning, they volunteered to walk down from high camp and help Eric and me carry our whole cache from 16k to 17k. We can not thank them enough for their help! Our efforts were somewhat tiering, but will allow the team to move more smoothly to 17k when weather allows. Rather than stopping at 16k and schlepping our cache and our full camp kit to 17k, now the team will be able to conserve energy by smoothly moving to 17k. Upon our return to the team at 14k, we discovered that our third guide, Logan, had rebuilt our snow kitchen and cooked up a nice dinner. What a pleasant surprise. The crew is in high spirits and getting anxious to move to higher ground and make a summit attempt in the next few days. The ground work and logistics are in order. We just need a few nice days to execute our plan. We look forward to moving into more inhospitable environments and nearing the top of North America. Our careful planning has paid off and all our ducks are in a row. The team had a nice moral boost with an afternoon reading of all the positive vibes from the blog comments. Thank you all! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

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We certainly enjoy the blog updates.  Hope the weather cooperates soon!  Michael, our thoughts are with you and all the others.  Love, Mom & Dad

Posted by: Eual/Paula Conditt on 6/13/2012 at 8:56 pm

We are enjoying the blog. It makes us feel like we can almost talk to you. Wishing you a successful trip Jeff/dad/team. We are cheering you on. Love Debbie, Andrew, and Madison

Posted by: Debbie Boskind on 6/12/2012 at 2:14 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Team at High Camp

Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from Island Peak. We are up here at High Camp, it’s another fairly nice evening out, certainly on the chilly side but we didn’t get any of that afternoon precip that we’ve seen the past couple of days. This has definitely been some of the better weather we have seen in the past few days. It’s cold. Cold, cold temps right now about to jump in the tent and get warm. We spent the morning wrapping up our training down at Base Camp and then moved up here to High Camp got in about mid day. We spent the afternoon sorting our gear and preparing. I ran up to check out the route and get things started with Kulan Tusing, one of our Sherpa, so everything is looking good up there. We just wrapped up an excellent dinner and off to bed. We are looking at an early morning start somewhere around 2 to 3 o’clock in the morning. With these cold temperatures we might delay our start a little bit but definitely get an alpine start. A couple hours through the rocks up onto the glacier and then move our way up the snow and ice to hopefully get to the summit of Island Peak. We will check in tomorrow and let you know how things go. The team is doing well we are definitely excited to have the climb here and everybody is in good spirits and we send our best to everyone back home. We’ll check in tomorrow. Take care.


RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from High Camp on Island Peak

On The Map

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Saw the picture and description of Island Peak. What a climb and scene you must have. Keep up the good work and we are all anxious to hear and see more. Love Mom

Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 4/8/2011 at 3:07 pm

Wow!  Gorgeous views!  A tad warmer here, but the views are magnificent! Apple trees getting ready to pop their blossoms out, green hills and white Cascade Mountain range.  The grass is starting to look a bit shaggy and ready for a haircut!  Dreamt about you last night, Tim. I woke myself up reaching for you from my dreamy state and you wearn’t there.  So glad for these blogs from Linden.  Keeps us going down here at home.  Can’t wait until Saturday.  Starting to let myself think about you too much.  Gotta stay busy.  I love you, and I am so proud of you living out the dreams and letting them come true.  You’re my hero!  Deb <3

Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/8/2011 at 11:45 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Reached Ingraham Flats

The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guide Joe Hoch spent two days on the mountain. The team climbed to Ingraham Flats where they were able to spend the day learning crevasse rescue skills. The team had a great couple of days on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier.

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Mountaineering Training | Mindful Movement

As a skiing and climbing guide, athlete, and yoga instructor, I am continually impressed by the correlation between success in the mountains and a regular yoga or meditation practice. In my personal experience, by taking time each day to completely focus my attention on simple movements in conjunction with controlled breathing, even for a just a short period of time, I have found that I can dramatically increase my ability to handle a higher mental stress load and consciously reign in a respiratory-system-gone-rogue.

The primary intention behind a yoga practice is the alignment of a series of movements with the coordination of the breath. Beyond the poses, aside from the stretching, before the flow, and without regard to the brand of clothing you choose to wear or the space in which you practice, is the synchronization of intentional movements with focused and controlled breathing. That is the essence of yoga.

One of my favorite quotes is by Sharon Gannon: “You cannot do yoga. Yoga is your natural state. What you can do are yoga exercises, which may reveal to you areas where you are resistant in your natural state”. Instead of hand-eye coordination, think body-breath coordination.

This training allows the individual the ability to more easily and calmly focus on a specific task and execute difficult movements with precision—especially, and perhaps most importantly—when pushing towards exhaustion.

The goal of starting a mindful movement practice is in taking this basic principle and applying it to any activity of your choosing.

I understand yoga is not for everyone. Personally, I love the quiet space, the dance of a well-sequenced vinyasa flow, and in the winter months I crave the warmth and full body lymphatic cleanse of a heated studio; they are always significantly cozier than the mid-January temperature of my 1920’s craftsman and warm my core after a day of skiing far better than even the highest, most overworked setting of my Subaru's seat-heating capabilities. That being said, I know plenty of guides and world-class athletes who firmly believe that yoga—of any sort—is not, and never will be, for them.

The secret is that these individuals find other activities with which to strengthen their mental game and incorporate mindful movement. Biking, running, swimming, pilates, even those post-work hikes with a heavy pack, all provide the opportunity to spend a few moments really thinking about and tuning in to your body positioning, your motor patterns, the rate and quality of your breath, all while tuning out the external static of life.

So my challenge for you in writing this blog post, if not to inspire you to rush off and attend the nearest yoga class, is to move through a few minutes of your next workout focused on not just exercising, but moving with intention, breathing in coordination with the efforts of your activity, and turning off the music in an effort to quiet your mind and direct your attention entirely to the task at hand. By practicing mindful movement in your daily tasks and familiar workouts, you will increase and strengthen your ability to use those same techniques to lower your respiratory rate and remain calm, thus allowing you to be more relaxed and move more efficiently when confronted with new and/or difficult tasks in an unfamiliar or uncomfortable environment for a longer period of time: situations much like those found on Mt. Rainier and other alpine objectives around the world.

_____

Solveig Waterfall is an AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide and has been working professionally in the mountains for 12 years. She guides in Alaska as well as the continental U.S., Ecuador, Mexico, and Argentina.  She also teaches backcountry skiing programs and ski mountaineering courses for RMI. Outside of guiding, she instructs yoga and fitness classes designed to complement an active life outdoors.

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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Solveig
I have been taking yoga classes for the past 10 or 11 years now I don’t know perhaps longer and I can seriously identify with all the techniques Strank’s and benefits that you ascribe to taking yoga classes with regard to clarity of thought power of intention and overall mental strength conditioning as you delineate the Power of Yoga elementals.

Possibly the greatest payoff to the sports enthusiast is the concept of correlation of each of the aspects you point out into an efficient unified focused and energized state of mind!

These Very qualities derived from my own Baptiste Power Yoga practice have been an important element of whatever success I’ve had in Mountaineering, and many other strenuous, challenging and sometimes dangerous pursuits

I’d like to share a specific example from a recent Guided Assent of Mt Baker, North Face with RMI August 25-27 2019

This Climb was considerably more challenging than my previous RMI Guided Assents of Rainiers DC Route or Kautz route, which I did with you Solvieg in 2017

I was not aware of just how much more challenging it was going to be

As our 6 person team got higher and higher on the mountain, the route became steeper and steeper until we were Climbing vertical ice cliffs!

The Glaciers were pretty bare and we had to retrace our steps several times as what was an uninterrupted route up the Mountain had become a very broken route up the mountain…

What all this absolutely reinforced was the essential Need to Completely Trust the Skill of the Guides and execution of ALL instructions from the guides immediately and without question!

Absolute Resolution of Focus and consistent galvanization of thought to decision to action!!

Every Single step, Every single ice pick thrust… spacing of turns, rope slack, managing challenges, breaks, managing each emerging concern as they arise…

One of the strongest contributors to success on that kind of Expedition, on that Kind of Mountain for me was the years of Learning and practicing the Yoga strengths and tools you so eloquently pointed out

Looking forward to another Rainier Assent in 2021 and hopefully a Denali Assent 2022

Posted by: Ken Tessier on 3/3/2020 at 7:36 pm

Beautiful article!  You inspire me.

Posted by: Patti sandow on 10/12/2017 at 9:11 pm


Vinson Massif Expedition:  Team Explores Punta Arenas

There was some reason for hope today for getting the Antarctic flights rolling. But in the end the better weather didn't quite materialize. We didn't waste much time fretting over the situation though. The team rallied after leisurely breakfast coffees (extending well into the afternoon) and set off on an urban hike. At least it began as an urban hike, through the streets of Punta Arenas, accumulating stray dogs as we went along, but after about an hour of hard walking we worked our way into the countryside. The wind was howling and the clouds were covering sun and sky, but we persevered. Ultimately we found ourselves in park-like surroundings, climbing the ski area overlooking town. At the top we were two thousand feet higher and about 7.5 miles from our lodging. We still had one stray dog and about fifty miles per hour of wind, to go along with an unexpectedly grand view of Punta and the whitecaps of the Straits of Magellan. We were back down to the waterfront and the friendly tourist restaurants by early evening, celebrating another fine summit together. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Hello team!
I’m grateful for your blog, so I know what is going on with my friend Kara! I’m sorry the weather has not cooperated so you can kick off your expedition, but you have a great attitude about it since its beyond your control. Safety first! Maybe you can have a proper Thanksgiving meal after all! I’ll stay tuned to read about your adventures. Fingers crossed for a break in the weather!
Take care, Dixie

Posted by: Dixie Trunko on 11/27/2013 at 6:53 am

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