Most Popular Entries

The RMI January 24th Kilimanjaro Climb & Safari team reached the summit of Kilimanjaro, the Roof of Africa, on Sunday January 29th.  The team enjoyed clear skies and sunshine as the sun rose over Tanzania.

Congratulations everyone!

Today was nice and easy… a chance to sip coffee and stare at the big volcano out the window.  It changed every few minutes, with clouds and light increasing, decreasing and doing just what clouds and light always do.

We took it easy to enhance our acclimatization and to prepare for tonight’s climb.  There was a small and easy training and gear session out in the grass.  But that was balanced by naps and meals. 

We’re ready!  Awake in just a few hours for our Alpine start. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Following a rainy day on Fuya Fuya yesterday, we were able to dry out and take hot showers at La Casa Sol.  We had the place to ourselves and enjoyed a quiet stay.  Today we spent a couple hours at the Otavalo Market, the largest outdoor craft market in South America.  It was a fun and slow way to start our day which included a bus ride and long 4x4 ride to the Cayambe climber’s hut.  The team is settled in for the night and we will train on the glacier tomorrow, reviewing basic climbing skills and learning how to build snow anchors.  Thanks for staying tuned and cross your fingers for good weather the next two days!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

When trekking into Everest Base Camp (BC) two weeks ago, it felt high, rugged, and hostile. Man, what a different perspective this morning, as Viesturs and I returned to BC after 5 days at Camp 1 (19,000') and Camp 2 (21,200'). What fun to enjoy the creature comforts that we did without for the last few days...thick air (yes, 17,500' feels thick compared to 21,000'), a shower, a shave, and a Coke. It never ceases to amaze me how much I appreciate the little things that we typically take for granted. A bit of suffering and "doing without" gives great contrast to our relative comforts of BC, where living on a pile of rocks and ice can seem quite luxurious. Our 5 days on the mountain went well and we accomplished all we set out to do on this rotation. Our night at Camp 1 was uneventful though light on sleep, as we listened to icefall and rockfall crash down from Everest's west shoulder and Nuptse. Camp 1 is in a good place but you never know "if" or "when" the big one might decide to come down. At daybreak the next day, fueled by high-octane caffeine, we blasted out of there and 2 1/2 hours later arrived at Camp 2. Camp 2 is in a much nicer place on the lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier and is free from objective dangers...icefall, rockfall, etc. We still slept poorly, though not from worrying about things falling from above, but from the significant altitude jump we had made from BC to here...about a 3,500' increase over the last 36 hours. Altitude symptoms affect everyone, even Ed Viesturs, and I was happy to know I had a partner to share my mild discomfort with. The next two days we made forays up to 22,000' on the southwest face of Everest and to the base of the Lhotse face. These two morning climbs were not only great for acclimatization, but let us soak in the amazing beauty of the world's highest peaks. We would start walking by 8 a.m. before the sun crested Lhotse, when the entire Khumbu is arctic blue and silent...and COLD. Then, within the hour, the brilliant sunlight would ignite the snow, rock, and ice around us and our world not only brightened but warmed up considerably. Up here there are two sources of heat...what your body generates and the sun, and you quickly learn how to maximize both. At the end of our stay at Camp 2, we were feeling pretty good. Our bodies had adjusted to the altitude and we were falling into the pace and cadence of high-mountain living. Ed and I are now back here at BC for 2-3 days of rest. Melissa stayed at Camp 2 for another day of acclimatization, and Dave Hahn and his team just headed up to Camp 1 for their first rotation on the mountain. I'm really pleased that all team members are on track and making steady progress. Next we will head up for another rotation up high, which will include spending a night at Camp 3 (23,500'), climbing above to about 25,000' and then descending all the way to BC for more rest prior to our final push. We are one month into this expedition and so far, so good. Each day is its own challenge. My mantra is "short-term focus on a long-term goal." One step at a time, literally. But hey, I'm down here at BC resting my body and my mind, so I'm going for another Coke.

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita, and Ben Ammon reached 12,200' feet before turning due to unstable snow on the route. Some of the team also took advantage of the beautiful weather to learn additional mountaineering skills at Ingraham Flats.

The team safely arrived at Basecamp after a climb up Kala Patar. New altitude records for some! The Easter bunny must have come through camp because there were little chocolate eggs left around camp when we arrived (thanks Tucker). Most everyone is feeling better and enjoying the wonderful cooking of our BC cook Kumar. The team spent the day enjoying the views and a little exploring of the camp. Hot showers were had by all! Tomorrow we'll make the trek back down to Pheriche and hopefully cross paths with RMI's Everest climbers. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

Today marks our fifth full day back at Base Camp since coming down from our third rotation on the mountain. The days have managed to slip by surprisingly quickly, filled with big meals, visits from friends, time spent reading, playing cards, throwing horseshoes, and most of all - resting. Tuck organized the 2011 Everest Base Camp Horseshoes Tournament a few days ago and filled our small camp with dozens of people from various teams bent on vying for the coveted crown. Besides a few errant throws - we lost a cooking pot to a high flying shoe and somehow managed to tangle a horseshoe in the prayer flags strung overhead - it was a really enjoyable afternoon. Yesterday Dave, Sara, and I spent the morning exploring the lower reaches of the Khumbu Glacier surrounding Base Camp, making our way through the tongues of rock moraine and among the fins of vertical ice that jut up from the glacier. But the overarching focus of these days has been on resting, and it has been paying off. Dave, Sara, and I are all feeling the gains from our leisurely days down here. The solid nights of sleep have calmed any minor altitude coughs and strength is seeping back into the legs. Our Sherpa team descended a few days ago as well and the whole team is now down at Base Camp, enjoying the rest and preparing for the final push. Every morning over the past few days we pull up the latest forecast and discuss the options for our summit bid. This season's weather has been unsettled to say the least and that trend has continued into the summit season. Several teams have made summit attempts over the past few days and the occasional eruption of cheering and clanging pots and oxygen bottles can be heard coming from camps as they celebrate the radio call from their climbers standing on the summit. But the summit season so far has been far from smooth and dozens of climbers have faced real challenges up there, battling high winds and cold temperatures in their attempts. While the temperatures and the snowfall are factors, our big concern is the wind. The jet stream is still playing around this part of the Himalayas, occasionally drawing close to Everest and then receding again, and causing nothing but confusion for the forecast models. The 60+mph winds reported yesterday are a sure indication the jets proximity. And so we are sitting down here, reading over the forecast every morning, hoping that these small snippets of good weather that lay scattered over the upcoming days materialize into a substantial window for us to feel confident to head up on our summit bid. Thus begins the waiting game, a trial in its own right. To sit in Base Camp after so many weeks of hard work, feeling ready and prepared for the summit bid, but stalling over the unstable weather conditions, is a huge mental challenge. On occasion a helicopter lands in Base Camp, picking up climbers returning from the summit - both those who made it successfully and those who did not but battled the cold and wind nonetheless - and whisks them back to Kathmandu in dozens of minutes. It's easy to let the mind wander to all of the luxuries and comforts that await the passengers when they disembark, but not a very helpful exercise. Nevertheless, the focus around camp remains, the days of rest are paying off, and our excitement is building for the upcoming climb. A great number of unknowns lie ahead of us, but we are feeling ready. Tomorrow we will wake up, print out the forecast, sit down in the morning sun to look over what the forecast models predict for wind speeds, temperatures, and precipitation amounts. Hopefully that window we know is coming begins to materialize. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Hello from Namche - We arrived at Namche this afternoon in great spirits. After a nice big breakfast, we started walking around 8:00 am. At first the trail follows the contour of the valley floor and then gradually climbs to Jorsale, the offical boundary of Sagarmatha National Park. While the permit was issued in Kathmandu on Friday, this is a formality and gives us the permission to enter the park. After confirming the details of the expedition, we were back on the trail. All of the elevation gain today occurs in one stretch called the "Namche Hill". It is not so much steep as it is long, but we climbed right up it. Keeping a solid pace, we passed through 9,000 feet, then 10,000 feet' and finally 11,000 feet. The reward at the top is a stunning view of the village of Namche terraced into the hillside. A incredible sight. We made our way to our teahouse, called Camp de Base, our home for the next three nights. After a cup of tea and a change of clothes, it is now time to do a little exploring... The RMI Everest Team

On The Map

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir September 9 - 13 led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Mike Walter continue their training at Camp Muir. The teams ascended on Monday from Paradise to Camp Muir. They have been working on their mountaineering skills including cramponing, rope travel, running belays and ice axe arrest. The teams have been enjoying beautiful weather and spending time on the mountain. They plan to make their summit attempt this evening. We wish them luck!

EAT.

SNOW.

LAY.

Today, is another rest DAY.

But, tomorrow we will PLAY.

RMI Climber Andrew