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Mountaineering Training | Moderation & Consistency

Happy New Year!    If you are reading this post, there’s a good chance that you are preparing for a mountain climb, or at least considering one! At this time of year many people charge into fitness like a horse bolting from the starting gates. It’s tempting to start the New Year with resolutions to improve fitness, eat better, change habits, and many other goals.    However, it is important to remember that the secret to athletic success is consistent and moderate effort. You may feel behind, your belt might be a little tight after the holidays and there are big goals nearing on the horizon. However, try and avoid the temptation to go crazy with fitness right now. By climbing a mountain, no matter the size, you’ve already chosen a highly motivating goal. Enjoy the training process and make it fun, positive, and healthy. Most of all, make it balanced; not too hard and not too easy; not too much and not too little. Each week, keep nudging your fitness forwards and you’ll make massive gains over the next months.    In my opinion, you don’t need a resolution. You have a very real and tangible goal that will motivate you forwards long after many New Year’s Resolutions are forgotten. Congratulations on choosing that goal!   If you are new to this blog, please take a look over the basics covered in the past few months, especially on planning your training and basic, key workouts like the Daily Dozen. I hope you’ve set aside time for some hiking and training this week to focus on your climb ahead. Enjoy the start to the New Year!   We look forward to introducing ‘Fit To Climb The Sixteen Week Training Program for Mount Rainier’ over the next few weeks, starting in February and we will map out a weekly training plan each Monday as part of the Fit to Climb Program.  - John Colver John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts with John and other readers on the RMI Blog!
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Climbs to 11,200’

Today's RMI Four Day Climb with guides Steve Gately and Jackson Breen climbed to Ingraham Flats to enjoy the sunrise. The high heat, and current route conditions prevented the team from safely going any further onto the upper mountain. The team enjoyed the morning climb and are now descending to Paradise.

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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Scale Great Barranco Wall

Jambo everyone back home!

We had a slower start today to allow the many porters to get a jump start on the route and ever narrowing trail.

Right out of Barranco Camp we were faced with the only significant technical obstacle for this climb of Kilimanjaro. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000' and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us climb up.

The team did a good job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see, especially since everyone did it in the rain which has been with us for two days now.

After reaching the top we took a nice break hoping to see the mountain, but the clouds only teased us. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching camp.

All in all, it took only about 4 hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks and revealed itself only when we were headed to bed.

Spirits are high and there have been no complaints from this tough and fit crew!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and team!

On The Map

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Looks amazing!! Hi Brad, I hope you are having the time of your life!! “See” you back at work soon!

Posted by: Jane Iannucci on 1/25/2020 at 10:44 am


Mt. Rainier: Emmons Skills Seminar at Glacier Basin

The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons is soaking up the sun and setting up camp in Glacier Basin. The team is doing really well and everyone is excited to be on the mountain. There are clouds building so taking advantage of the sun is the number one priority for training this afternoon. RMI Guide JJ Justman
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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Team Trains and Reaches Top of Muir Peak

Update 5:27 p.m.: What a day! What a day! The team made it high up on the mountain and we finished the training with a Muir Peak rappel. After a full day it's time to relax, unwind and tell some stories! 8:33 a.m.: We made the summit!! Of Muir Peak. Yesterday the weather cleared and the team got out to play in the snow. While practicing cramponing we made the top of Muir Peak just above 10,000 feet. It is always a beautiful view looking down on the Mount Rainier glaciers below. Today we have another beautiful day to continue our expedition skills training. While we go through crevasse rescue, Brent and Katie are going to check out the conditions higher on the mountain. If all is good we will venture up the mountain later this afternoon. RMI Guide JJ Justman
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Congrats!  I can’t tell whos-who in the picture but I sure am hoping two of those people are Troy and Carl!

Posted by: Dean Lundblad on 4/11/2013 at 10:46 pm


Elbrus Expedition: Mallory & Team Arrive in Moscow

Dobrye Veycher from Moscow! The RMI Mt. Elbrus Team arrived into Moscow throughout the day today, making the hour long drive from the airport to our hotel in the heart of the city, across the Moscow River from the Kremlin. With climbers coming in from all over the globe, it has been a long couple of days of traveling for the team and we had a mellow evening, finding dinner in a small restaurant down the street from the hotel. This far north, it is still daylight at 10:30pm as we turn in for the evening. We are excited to be here and looking forward to exploring Moscow tomorrow, visiting the city's most famous sites - from Red Square to St. Basil's Cathedral to the Kremlin. We will check in tomorrow after our city tour. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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Good luck and good weather Daniel and your fellow climbers on your ascent tomorrow. Hope all that New Zealand and Kilimanjaro training comes to good use. Aussie Aussie Aussie Oi Oi Oi.
Regards
Rina

Posted by: Rina Mrhar on 7/12/2012 at 10:24 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team to the Edge of the World

Today we enjoyed the luxury of waking to the sun on the tents, avoiding the early morning cold. Once up and fed, we took a fantastic walk to THE EDGE OF THE WORLD. Perfect views of the lower Kahiltna Glacier 7,000 feet below our perch and we all took turns peeking over the edge and snapping a few photos. Don't worry friends and family, we were on belay the whole time. For the afternoon we rested and welcomed the RMI 4 team after their stylish send on Denali yesterday. Nice job everyone! Then it was back to work, setting up a fixed line practice and trying as many variations as possible to prepare for the cache tomorrow. Now it's dinner time, catch y'all tomorrow. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Congratulations team! Good luck on the descent as well.

Posted by: AK on 6/21/2012 at 12:43 pm

Hey paps!!!!!!!!
HAPPY FATHERS DAY!!!!!! There is a pecan pie waiting for you at the summit, so scurry on up there and get your butt back home!!!
Miss you! Cant wait to fatten you up when your back with all our celebratory dinners!!
Love, Sarina

Posted by: Sarina Karwande on 6/17/2012 at 1:50 pm


Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Settled in at the Base of Ski Hill

Whew. Heavy loads today! Despite the burden the crew enjoyed a second great day in the Alaska Range under blue skies and warm temperatures. Today's walk was a long haul but the crew did great on our first physical portion of the expedition. We've settled into a new camp at the base of Ski Hill which is approximately 7,800'. Not much else to report other than tired legs and full bellies as we snug up for the night after a great meal. Hasta mañana. RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the gang

On The Map

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Great job guys…remember its the miles before the elevation.  Keep up the good work and fingers crossed for good weather.  Best wishes Brother Paul

Posted by: John Fletcher on 5/20/2012 at 5:52 am

Brandi & Elizabeth, I wanted to send you a nice bottle of wine to congratulate you on your “little hike” As much as I searched i could not find a hotel listing for 7800 up Mt Mckinley, let alone the number for room service :-)

MS

Posted by: MS on 5/19/2012 at 9:26 pm


Kilimanjaro: Martin & Team Descend to Final Camp

Hello from Mweka Camp, We did it! We had an absolutely perfect summit day today on Kilimanjaro. Leaving camp at 12:45 am, we made it to Stella Point (the crater rim) by 6:30 am, just in time to watch a very colorful sunrise. At 7:30 am, the entire team was standing on top of Uhuru Peak, the Roof of Africa. The group did an excellent job of climbing the 4,000' from Barafu Camp to the summit. The weather continued to cooperate today and we had clear skies all day long. It is always nice to be rewarded with a grand view from the top. We all congratulated each other for this big accomplishment, and took our summit photos. We descended back to Barafu Camp in time for a late breakfast and to pack our gear up for the hike down to Mweka Camp. It is nice to be down at 10,000' again. We are camped amongst the Giant Heather and the air is thick again. Our last dinner on the mountain started with a champagne toast to the summit of Kilimanjaro, and was followed by a wonderful meal. We walk out the last six miles and end our trek at the Mweka Gate tomorrow. We will be back at the Dik Dik by early afternoon and everybody is looking forward to a hot shower and clean clothes. The Kili Team
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WOW, So happy to hear this morning -100%. I’m so happy for your summit victory!! you did it! My god my eyes are welling up, but that could be because I haven’t had a vacation in three years, LOL. Seriously, Jeff, did you think that old coot Rusty was gonna make it? lol, I did, he’s an amazing friend. He’s a friggin’ mountain goat.I will toast to you all tonight. Congratulations Jeff,Rusty,Sara and the rest of your team on an amazing journey and accomplishment. Jeff, a huge thank you for the posts, that kept us up to date and made your trip seem so close to us at home.I’ve really looked forward to them and will continue to follow you guys.
Gummi worm Man

Posted by: gummi worm man on 8/2/2011 at 1:13 pm

Congratulations, what a feat!!!  Great respect for your accomplishments!  We can’t wait to see the photos of you at the summit!

Posted by: L & Bailey on 8/2/2011 at 12:56 pm


Vinson:  Ilyushins, First Ascents, and Changing Weather

Two nights ago, when I sent my last dispatch, we were all a bit deflated, having been told we'd most likely be sitting here at Union in bad weather for 4 more days. To our surprise, though, yesterday morning brought brilliant blue skies and the possibility of an Ilyushin flight in the evening. As the day went on, it was clear the Ilyushin would be coming to take one load of passengers out to Punta Arenas. Included in that first flight would be Ed, Cindy, David, and Ben. The rest of us - Peter, Seth, Caroline, Kent, and I - would be on the next flight. With ample sun and stunning peaks waiting outside camp, there was little option but to go climbing...for those of us not packing. Mount Rossman, a towering massif of snowy ridges and rocky buttresses, had lured many already with it's siren song. Unclimbed until last year, nearly every couloir and ridge on the multi-summit peak had seen a first ascent in the past 10 days. Caroline went off with Vic Saunders and some others for one of the few remaining unclimbed lines on the right side of the peak. Soon after, Seth blasted uphill, skis on his back, to make turns off the summit. Kent and I, after finishing up some production work, decided on another unclimbed line, a nice looking couloir climbing some 1500 feet up the peak. For me, the joy of doing a first ascent, of setting the first tracks on a given route or peak, is not to be able to brag about it, but rather just the sheer adventure of it, for you have no idea what lies ahead. Sure, Kent and I looked at the route from camp, saw that it looked continuous and snowy the whole way, and seemed to be steep enough to be fun, but not too steep. But, you never know. Would the snow be good? How about the rock quality where it seemed to pinch closed 1/2 way up? Ice screws? Pickets? Would there be the bullet-proof, blue ice we'd seen elsewhere, or just easy-going neve? While those questions could be intimidating, swirling in the back of the mind, they are, to me, the part that gets me going. It's the lack of knowledge, the feeling of some vestige of "true" adventure, which makes such an outing enticing. In the end, Kent and I found a beautiful, aesthetic line following generally good snow up a 40-55 degree couloir for 1500 feet. The rope and gear we brought stayed in my pack, neither of us feeling the need for it with such good conditions. It was just fun climbing, some shooting by both of us, and an immensely enjoyable few hours on a new route on Mount Rossman. We called it "Ilyushin Fields" after the plane which, as we descended, dropped through a curtain of ice fog onto a blue ice runway, loaded 62 passengers, and swept them off to Punta. Soon, we hope, we, too, will be in the air from Antarctica over the Drake Passage. But, if not, while some 20 first ascents have been ticked off around here in the past 2 weeks, there are still a lot of firsts left to do around Union Glacier. We won't be bored. -Jake Norton
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