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The Glacier Peak Climb was on top with 100% of the team! RMI Guide Hannah Smith reported a beautiful day and good climbing conditions.
The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons left Camp Schurman early this morning heading out for their summit attempt on Mt. Rainer. Due to unstable snow, the team turned at 11,300’ feet. They are heading back to camp where they will spend the remainder of their time on the mountain practicing the alpine mountaineering skills they have been learning all week. The team will descend from Camp Schurman tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations team!
Hello from
Kikoti Camp,
It was another amazing day on safari. We left the Plantation Lodge this morning and headed south to the last park we will visit on our safari, Tarangire National Park. En route, we stopped at a few curio shops to get gifts for our family and friends back home. Wood animal carvings, Maasai blankets, African masks, carved bowls, and few paintings will all make the journey home.
Once we got into the park, the game viewing was a little slow at first. Our luck certainly changed after lunch. Not only did we see a leopard, we also saw a female cheetah with three cubs, several big elephant herds, giraffes, warthogs, and even a unicorn. Actually it was Thompson Gazelle that lost a horn, but from a distance, it definitely looked like a unicorn.We have seen a lot of animals the last few days and covered a lot of beautiful miles. We are now at our last lodge, a luxury tented camp right on the edge of Tarangire. The views are incredible and the sounds around camp remind us that we really are out in the African bush.
Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and what a perfect spot for our last night in Tanzania. Tomorrow, we drive back to Arusha, pick up our climbing gear and head to the airport for our flights back home.
From literally the snows of Kilimanjaro to the African plains, this has been a hell of a trip. Thank you again to those who checked in daily to read our dispatches and to everyone who left the motivating comments while we were on the mountain.
Best regards,
RMI Guide
Jeff Martin & Team
A hearty hello to everyone out there following along as
RMI's February 1st Aconcagua Expedition gets started. Most of the team trickled in to Mendoza yesterday afternoon and hit the ground running despite being weary from long stretches of airline travel. We held a team meeting followed by a fantastic dinner at one of the local restaurants. I can assure you that large quantities of beef and wine were consumed as we made our last efforts to pack on a couple pounds before heading onto the mountain. The guides packed group gear late into the night and after a brief nap we rose early to finish up our permitting process and run a few last minute errands. We're headed for Penitentes this afternoon where we'll finalize our packing and help ready the mule loads before spending one last night in a bed for a long time. Busy busy!
More to share as our program continues... Stay with us!
RMI Guides
Billy Nugent,
Garrett Stevens and the rest of the gang.
Breakfast was early this morning as the night was fairly warm and if we were to make a carry we wanted to not be caught up in the sometimes crowded scene that happens on the fixed ropes later in the day. But a quick survey of how everyone was doing at breakfast confirmed our suspicion that the day would be better spent resting and fortifying our camp from windy, nasty weather that can happen at any time. After all, we'd been going strong for six days straight. So, we enjoyed a leisurely meal of western omelette, bacon and bagels, followed by some warm pop tarts. And the best part of the morning was when Roberto Pellegrino took over and started turning out some killer pancakes leftover from another days breakfast. The morning amounted to a relaxed time just enjoying each others company. But of course my mind is always spinning and after my third hot drink I thought it might be worthwhile to at least get some food up to our high camp, and perhaps even see our friends Billy, Geoff and Gilbert. So, off Lindsay and I went. It was her first time actually on the
Buttress itself, and it made for a fun trip. And visiting with our other team at 17,200' was great too.
Tomorrow we plan on all climbing up the fixed ropes and on to the Buttress. How far we just don't know. But, we'll be sporting nice light packs, a very welcome change for us all.
We'll be in touch tomorrow night as long as we get back early enough.
Brent, Leon and Lindsay
On The Map
The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier August 3 - 5 team reached the summit of Mt. Baker today around 10 am. Along with training and preparing for this climb, this team is part of the American Lung Association Climb for Clean Air raising money for the cause. We are excited to report that all team members reached the summit today led by RMI Guides James Bealer, David Price and Abby Westling. They will return to camp on the mountain for a final night. Tomorrow they will walk out to the trail and conclude their program with a small celebration.
Congratulations everyone! Nice work!
The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide JJ Justman along with the All Women's Team led by Lindsay Mann reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams delayed their departure from Camp Muir due to rain but once the rain dissipated they began their summit attempt. They were rewarded with great route conditions, light winds and clear skies above. The teams will spend some time on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir and then continuing down to Paradise later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
June 1, 2014 11:47 pm PT
It has been a perfect rest day for us. Not perfect climbing weather, but plenty nice at camp to enjoy the day. Although many climbers took advantage of the relatively good weather to go for
17,200' camp, many others were suspicious of the cloud cap over the summit that threatened winds on the Buttress. In fact, no guided groups went to 17,200' today. But we had no such decisions to make. Instead, we slept in until 9:00 then, as we've done before, and feasted on a sumptuous brunch of smoked salmon, bagels and cream cheese. What decadence!
The guides had some chores and logistics to sort out, then we took the short tour east to the Edge of the World to take in the view from 14,000' overlooking the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, and affording views way down the glacier to where our very first camp of the expedition was.
We've done a lot of climbing since then, and have developed as a strong team caring for the well being of each other as much as ourselves. It's nice seeing the kind of support these guys give each other.
Tomorrow brings us our biggest challenge of the trip, and everyone shares the mixed emotions of excitement and nervousness. We got through the headwall and fixed lines yesterday, but the Buttress itself is another beast. As is ascending the 3000' to 17,200', a new altitude record for many of us.
That this part of the route is the guides' favorite part attests to the aesthetics of the climbing, and I think the team will get excited when they get on it.
We're looking forward to a good, hard day. Because it will be a long day for us, which may even be followed by another even harder day (the summit?), this may be the last post of any length for a while.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guides
Brent Okita,
Leah Fisher, and
Nick Hunt
It wasn't a flawless day. There were plenty of clouds about, and it looked mean and nasty up high on the mountain, but it was certainly nice enough where we were. We left 11 camp at ten minutes past ten, ground on up motorcycle and squirrel hills in low gear and came out into the polo fields below the end of the West Buttress. Another good uphill walk took us past our cache point from the other day and into definitely-not-windy-corner. We went around the corner in perfect conditions, but all agreed it was pretty tough traversing the snowy side hill with a sled threatening to pull one off the track. It began to snow on us a bit, but by this point it was welcome as it kept us from overheating as we wound around, between and over the top of giant crevasses on the final hour into our destination. We pulled into camp at 14,200 ft at a few minutes past five, completing our biggest day yet. Temps were noticeably cooler up so high and there was a light breeze blowing through 14 camp, so we couldn't pause long enough to pat ourselves on the back or to gaze up in wonder at the
West Buttress and the South Peak of Denali... we needed to get tents up and anchored down. We simultaneously got that done, a kitchen up and running to melt large quantities of snow (we were all parched), a dining area dug in and covered and a latrine in place. We are getting well practiced at high altitude, cold-camp construction.
Just as we sat down for dinner at 8 PM, it was time to turn on a radio to catch the nightly forecast for mountain weather. It isn't a terribly stable outlook, but we do hope Adam Knoff's RMI team at 17,200 ft can hang in there and get lucky.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Today we hiked 11 miles through rolling forest and grasslands. The views of the Paine River and Lake were enjoyable. The team enjoyed sun, wind & rain. Often these happened all at once.
We are relaxing at Lago Dickson, a beautiful camp along a glacial lake that often has ice floating in it. All is well in Southern Patagonia.
RMI Guide Mike King and Team
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Well done, team! Passed you on our way down Thursday below White Pass! Cheers!
Posted by: Peter on 7/24/2021 at 4:55 pm
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