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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Summits

RMI Guide Joe Hoch and the Five Day Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier shortly after 8:00 AM this morning. Steady winds did not prevent the team from spending time on the summit enjoying their accomplishment. The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford tomorrow afternoon.
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Cannot say thank you enough to Joe, Camille and Cole for the entire experience. From minute 1, we knew we had a great group of guides, made only more clear the closer we got to the summit. It truly was an incredible experience and I felt in great hands the entire trip. Great group all around and hope our paths cross again on another mountain soon.

Posted by: Parker Knox on 7/28/2019 at 8:28 am

WOOHOO!! Congrats Knox’s Boys!!! Thank you to the wonderful guides who kept our guys safe and lead the way to a once (maybe twice) in a lifetime experience to conquer the great and beautiful peak together! Bode would be so proud!!! We are super excited to celebrate with you guys! Xoxox

Posted by: Kristina, Carolina, & Cyndy on 7/22/2019 at 11:27 pm


Mt. McKinley: RMI Guide Eric Frank’s Final Thoughts

June 19, 2014 - 9:34 am PT As the wheels of our bush plane touched down in Talkeetna last night, my mind breathed a bittersweet sigh of relief. On one hand, we were back in civilization with amazing conveniences, such as flush toilets and food with expiration dates, but the trip had not turned out the way I hoped in previous months of dreaming about it. After taxiing through the airfield, we unpacked the plane and I cataloged the 36 hours of frenzied activity leading up to that point. The weather throughout this trip was challenging. Aside from the first few days traveling up the lower Kahiltna Glacier, we battled ominous and unpredictable forecasts, and lots of marginal weather. The team did a great job of staying positive, always assuming that after the snow ended we would get our break. Day followed day, but the snow didn’t stop. It wasn’t a blizzard by any means, but just bad enough to not be able to move up high and make a summit attempt. Every morning we would get up and either watch snow fall, or see wind howling across the summit plateau. After nine nights at 14,200’ camp we were in a difficult position. We had managed to get a food cache up on the route, just below 16,000’, but the snow was presenting avalanche danger, the forecast hadn’t improved and the days were counting down. The group had a long discussion about schedules and desires, eventually coming to the conclusion that we would split ways. Part of the team would stay, join another RMI team for support and wait for better weather. The other half of us would pack up most of the gear and move downhill toward the runway. Family, friends and work obligations were calling our names. After a 15-hour, 14-mile walk through the night, we made it to the landing strip, caught a plane and found ourselves on terra firma Tuesday night around dinner time. As a guide, these trips are some of the most difficult to manage. The puzzle was one piece from coming together, but it wasn’t meant to be. The frustration was not solely ours. This has been a rough year in the Alaska Range weather-wise. When we flew onto the glacier, the summit success percentage was a depressingly low 16%. It has hardly risen since then. It would seem as though this season has been one of failure, but I prefer to view it differently. As a team, we did everything we could to be ready, the mountain simply said “no.” That doesn’t mean that we didn’t have an enjoyable trip with lots of good memories. Quite the contrary, we had several good weeks together filled with learning and bonding. I am reminded of the very applicable mountain phrase, “The summit is for the ego, but the journey is for the soul.” Final thoughts- To our three climbers- Andy, Jesse, and John. Thanks for arriving fit, ready to climb and with great senses of humor. You guys were a riot to hang out with in the cook tent, and on the rope. I have every confidence that given a decent weather window, you guys could tag the top. Unfortunately, not getting a chance to summit is sometimes part of big mountain climbing. You guys handled it with class and smiles. I hope our paths in the mountains cross many times in the future. To my fellow RMI guide, Geoff Schellens, it is always a pleasure to work with you. Good times, buddy. You are smart, patient and ridiculously strong at altitude. I felt lucky to be up there with you. To all the family, friends, armchair mountaineers and acquaintances who followed along in the last few weeks; thank you for the support. Your comments on the blog and daily positive vibes were the fuel that pushed us along up there. We thought of you in every decision, and with each picture we took. Until next time, keep warm and enjoy every moment of life. RMI Guide Eric Frank
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Eric,  Thank you for taking such good care of ‘Patty’s little boy’.  The RMI blog posts that you provided were beneficial to both excited and worried family members.  We even had the reassurance of your Mom, now that is special!  Also, thank you for allowing John to continue with Team Jones, No Troubles.  I realize that restructuring teams in mid-expedition is not usual protocol and wanted to thank both you and Geoff for facilitating this.  You allowed John to fulfill a dream!  Best Regards,  Kent Stenderup

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 11:19 am

Eric——  Thank you for the beautifully written “final thoughts”.  It provided positive closure on the “Upper West Rib” expedition.  I have great respect for your focus on safety and appreciate the decisions that you made. I am happy for my son , John, that he was able to transition over to Tyler’s group and continue his quest and eventual summit.  I spoke with him last night after the team arrived in Talkeetna. He had nothing but praise and appreciation for your great leadership.  I would like you to thank your Mom , again for me, for her words of encouragement. It really helped me!  Thank you so very much!!!
                    Patty Stenderup
(PS—- I am still wondering where in Ohio you are from???  I am also a Buckeye.

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 10:44 am


Happy Father’s Day from RMI!

Happy Father's Day from RMI! Our fathers played an influential role in getting us involved in the outdoors and appreciating the experience of the mountains for many of us. Thanks to all of the mentors who inspired our climbing dreams and support our mountain adventures. Below is a compilation of photos of RMI climbers and guides climbing with their dads. Thank you to everyone for sharing your pictures with us! RMI Climbers and Guides Fathers Day Photos
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Happy Father’s Day to all especially Peter Rogers love you!!

Hope you’re having the time of your life! Love, Madison

Posted by: Madison hall on 6/16/2013 at 8:03 am


Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche Climb: Smith & Team Acclimatize on Local Peak

It's us again,

Today we said goodbye and safe travels to the other RMI team who trekked to Everet Basecamp. While we are focusing on acclimatization, they are eager to get to lower altitudes and more oxygen. To help with our acclimatization the team took off uphill outside our teahouse and went up Nangkartshang. The top sits at 16, 644' with half the team making the top and half the team hitting 15,000' before turning around to get some more rest. Everyone did great and is feeling well. Tomorrow we push higher to Lobuche. We are only a couple nights away from basecamp and several nights away from heading to our high camp on Lobuche peak. The days are flying by and blending together. Before you know it we will be the team heading downhill while Everest teams head uphill. The nights are cold, so we are all bundled in our sleeping bags getting warm and allowing our bodies to rest before another uphill filled day. 

So goodnight all,

Hannah, Abby, and Team

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It’s really nice blog post. Thank you so much for this.

Posted by: Rocko on 4/15/2023 at 3:35 am

Big Hugs to all!  So happy to hear you’re doing well.  Know that you’re always in my thoughts and prayers.  Stay well and stay safe.  Thank you very much for the updates.  Feels like I’m there with you.  Get lots of rest. Enjoy each day! Diane

Posted by: Diane P Cortopassi on 3/29/2023 at 11:14 am


Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 17,200ft Camp

Wednesday, June 9, 2021 - 10:42 pm PT

The weather forecast has been calling for a tapering of the wind and clouds above 17,200’ beginning late Thursday. After being camp and tent bound for almost a week we decided to move camp. The weather was warm, cloudy, windy, hot and cold all over the 7ish hours it took us to move. There was some uphill and downhill traffic that we dealt with. The climbing on the West Buttress is by far the highlight so far. With expansive views of the Peter’s glacier and the black rock of the North Summit the team kept their heads down and did the hard work. We are safe in camp working on dinner and drinking water. A rest day is likely tomorrow as Friday seems to be the day for a summit attempt. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

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Awesome job you guys!

Posted by: Roger Rood on 6/11/2021 at 9:37 am

Very glad for all that you were able to make the change of camps as you prepare for your climb to the summit. Praying for good weather and a beautiful day. Congratulations to Rob

Posted by: Tío Kleberg on 6/10/2021 at 7:38 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker & Team Reach Namche Bazaar

We are here at Namche Bazaar, very comfortable and well fed. Campo de Base is the name of our tea house for the next two nights. Friendly staff, very tasty food and hot showers in the room. You have got to love that. We will be roughing it plenty in the near future so this bit of luxury will really help prepare us for the mission ahead. At over 11,000' this is the perfect place to spend some time to let the body adjust. Plans for tomorrow are hikes to local spots of interest and some old fashion relaxing. We have been going at it pretty hard since we landed in Nepal, a little chill day will do us all some good. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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L & P:  What a good jaunt!!  Looks a lot like our hills…grab it ...all the overwhelmingness!  Drink in the Adventure!!  Life is an Adventure, not an obligation!!  Run!!  ... & thanks again to Mark.  We are with you every step of the way…savor ...
Much love M & G   (YMNTBP)

Posted by: Gretchen & Mike on 3/23/2013 at 10:22 pm

Liesl and Pete…..and everyone! I hope you are having a wonderful, amazing time. I can’t wait to hear all about it when you get home!! Miss you!

Posted by: Lara on 3/23/2013 at 2:20 pm


Aconcagua Expedition:  Van Deventer & Team Back to Camp

We are all back at the tents after a beautiful summit day on Aconcagua! The weather was even better than forecasted, with no wind, clear skies, and warm temps. This let us leave a bit later, just as the sun was rising, and we enjoyed its warmth for the whole day. I personally have never had better conditions on the summit than today: just a light fleece, no gloves, and a vista that stretched for hundreds of miles in all directions. Congratulations to the team for a huge effort, and standing on the roof of South America. The guides would like to thank the whole team for such a successful and fun trip. Tomorrow we descend back to base camp, and get ready for the trek out and a return to Mendoza. Cheers RMI Guides Pete, Leon, Mike, and the climbers
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congrats Leon and team!

Posted by: dawn on 2/6/2013 at 11:44 am

Rick can’t wait to hear your voice and hear all about your adventure. XOXOX Carol

Posted by: Carol Crye Popp on 2/5/2013 at 9:10 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Trek Camp 2

Day two on the trail was another splitter day with a great breeze to keep the heat at bay. Our team rolled out of camp at about nine this morning and enjoyed a great stretch of trail into the next camp at Casa de Piedra. Currently we're lounging riverside and soaking up some afternoon sun. Although everybody's chilling now, our first glimpse of the mountain today was a reminder of the prospective climb ahead and all of the hard work that entails. We'll check in again tomorrow from Aconcagua basecamp at Plaza Argentina after we climb up through the Relinchos Valley... RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, & the team
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Elbrus Northside Team descends to Base Camp

It was a beautiful night at Camp 1 last night, without a light for miles the stars were simply stunning, covering the dark sky so thoroughly the whole expanse seemed to glow. Beneath it all, we slept soundly - tired from the day of climbing. When we awoke we had a leisurely breakfast, enjoying the morning sun and watching the clouds form, dissolve, and reform on the summit far above. Despite the pleasant weather at Camp 1, the weather up high looked unsettled again with clouds racing over the summit. We commented again on how fortunate we were to sneak in a successful summit. Packing up all of our gear, we shouldered hefty packs and began our descent to Base Camp. It took a few minutes to get the legs loosened up but once we navigated back down through the scree and boulder fields we were again moving well. Taking a slightly more easterly trail on the descent from that which we came up, we visited a series of rock formations known as the Mushroom Rocks - towers of eroded rocks sporting broad flat tops, very reminiscent of landscapes found in the American West. Continuing on, we rejoined our original trail and descended back into a carpet of green and yellow as the alpine grasses and small shrubs are turning colors with the approach of fall. At last, with tired feet we arrived at Base Camp, happy to drop the packs. Several of the Russian soldiers, temporarily stationed here since the helicopter crash up on the mountain, came over to congratulate us and convinced a few of the more courageous team members to take a dunk with them in the springs next to camp, which they informed us bubbles up at a scalding 2 degrees Celsius (~36F). We are planning to return to Kislovodsk tomorrow, a day earlier than anticipated, to seek out some hot showers, clean clothes, and fresh food. Although the climb of Elbrus is behind us, a long journey still awaits us as we make our way back out of the Caucasus and to St. Petersburg on the shores of the Gulf of Finland. We are eager to set off on the next leg of our adventure.
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Denali Expedition: Cifelli and Team Weather the Storm

As we arose from our tents again at 14,000’ camp, fresh snow covered everything as if a frozen Baja Blast machine broke in the middle of the night and began spewing as far as the eye could see.

Today marked a choice, go for it, and continue up beautiful Denali, or stay here at14,000’ Camp for another night, and wait for a better window. Upon first view of the surroundings, the choice was clear, spend one more day resting. This journey has been largely about patience, especially these last few days, but we are on the home stretch now, also just days away now from returning to civilization…

All the fish tacos, burritos and fajitas, Doritos, and Fritos, and Cheetos, pizza, burgers and glizzies and frozen margaritas All these and more, await at Talkeetna

Climber Joey Myers & Team

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