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Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Seth Burns, Daniel May
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
As we arose from our tents again at 14,000’ camp, fresh snow covered everything as if a frozen Baja Blast machine broke in the middle of the night and began spewing as far as the eye could see.
Today marked a choice, go for it, and continue up beautiful Denali, or stay here at14,000’ Camp for another night, and wait for a better window. Upon first view of the surroundings, the choice was clear, spend one more day resting. This journey has been largely about patience, especially these last few days, but we are on the home stretch now, also just days away now from returning to civilization…
All the fish tacos, burritos and fajitas, Doritos, and Fritos, and Cheetos, pizza, burgers and glizzies and frozen margaritas All these and more, await at Talkeetna
Climber Joey Myers & Team
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
We had teams summit via three different routes on Mt. Rainier this morning: Dave Hahn and Jason Thompson led teams via the Disappointment Cleaver Route, Pete Van Deventer via the Kautz Glacier Route, and Garrett Stevens on the Emmons Glacier Route. They reported chilly conditions, winds about 15 mph and sunny skies. All teams had left the crater rim by 7:50 a.m.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Mark Tucker here at high camp of Island Peak. Hands are freezing but the rest of me is pretty good. We are situated a couple hundred feet below 18,000 feet. We got a bit to go but we're in good shape. Have the tents up. Actually have a small kitchen tent where our Nepali staff is making us some fresh momos. He has a rolling pin out, had the flour going, cooking up the vegetables. We're roughing it but its still reasonably comfortable. Having aghast. We've got peaks above, ice, rock every where. Ocean below, giant peaks peaking out of the clouds, and yes, a bit chilly. I'm sure we're going to be in for it tonight when it comes to the cold but lots of layers and keep moving should do the trick. So we're planning to start looking at the weather at 1 am, hopefully moving by 2ish and route sounds like it's in pretty good shape. So if things go right, we're going to get on top of this thing and make a call to y'all. We're going to error on the side of smart and conservative, not push too hard, but give it a gosh darn good effort.. So we're looking forward to it, all fired up and can't wait to report in again.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from Island Peak High Camp.
On The Map
L & P & All- FANTASTIC!! GO for It!! We are with you!! GOOOOO!!
GOOD ENERGY and LOVE TO YOU ALL!!
M & G
Posted by: Gretchen & Mike on 4/4/2013 at 9:33 pm
Awesome! Stay warm Bill.
Mike
Posted by: Mike M on 4/4/2013 at 4:23 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 9,300'
Today our team is resting at Aconcagua Basecamp. Tomorrow we will occupy Camp One. The weather has been very windy but everyone is in good spirits.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Jambo! We have descended past high camp and are on our way to our last camp, Mweka. The summit was beautiful with zero wind and sunny skies. We topped out on Stella Point at sunrise and reached Uruhu Peak one hour later. As we descended a cloud layer built over the mountain and we're currently getting snowed on. We're all looking forward to a nice rest.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in from the Kilimanjaro Summit
On The Map
Matt
Great!!!
We have been following you every day.
Love
Mom and Dad
Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 8/8/2012 at 7:42 am
WOOOO HOOOOO!!!! Go team! tamara, you rock!
XO
ALICIA
Posted by: Alicia Schwartz on 8/8/2012 at 7:21 am
It was a little tough waking up at 1 AM, since we hadn't been able to get to bed terribly early, but coffee and bagels got us going. Just as we'd hoped, it had been a clear night and the glacial surface had frozen up good and hard. Conditions were ideal for tackling the lower glacier. This section can be problematic since it is normally heavily crevassed in late season, but we found that the recent snowfall and overnight freeze had combined to bridge things nicely. We set out around 4:30 AM and made steady progress, first dropping a few hundred feet to reach the main glacier and then turning North while working up small hills and inclines. The packs were heavy and despite the fact that the fully loaded sleds were sliding easily along, we were all pretty thankful for the short rest breaks each hour. It was good hard work, but we didn't have much in the way of glitches or problems. The last two hours of our push were conducted in bright sunshine with a great view of Denali's south face. The West Buttress stood out clearly in relief. We pulled into our intended camp at 7,800 ft at about 9:15 AM and got to work. In no time, we had tents, a kitchen, a dining area, a latrine and the start of several significant naps. It was a day for power lounging and for catching up on hydration.
We rallied for a group dinner since Solveig Waterfall was serving up excellent burritos, but then the naps resumed.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Richard, Great progress - Non-stop to the top, Best Wishes.
Posted by: Ritesh on 7/3/2012 at 5:27 pm
Richard - we are keeping tabs on you and your team. What beauty of nature you must be viewing! Blackie and I are keeping good thoughts of you and look forward to sharing your climb stories. XOXOXOXO Genny
Posted by: Genny on 7/2/2012 at 9:21 pm
Hola amigos de Guanacos Camp (Camp 2)! We awoke to perfectly clear, blue skies so we took advantage by breaking down camp early and ascending up to Camp 2 where we are currently well established. However, this morning's blue skies have given way to some clouds and flurries. Seems like we've timed tomorrow's rest day perfectly with some crappy weather. Right now there's an ominous lenticular cloud engulfing the summit but the team remains optimistic because there should be a break in the weather beginning Monday evening. We are all feeling great and climbing exceptionally well. Tonight is also Michael's birthday and we intend to do our best to celebrate it at well over 18,000'.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
I ordered 75 pizzas for Freed’s birthday. I hope you guys get them…
Posted by: Zach on 2/11/2012 at 5:56 pm
I guess with the change in weather Mark has his shirt on!! Love ya Julie
Posted by: Julie on 2/11/2012 at 2:44 pm
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by Peter Whittaker, Ed Viesturs and Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 6:30 a.m. The teams reported a beautiful day up top: sunshine, clear skies and calm winds. The teams will return to Camp Muir and complete their descent to Paradise later today.
At 9:00 a.m., the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by Pete Van Deventer also made the summit via the Emmons Route. They began their descent shortly after and will be descending back to Camp Schurman for the evening and returning to Rainier Basecamp tomorrow.
The Four Day Climb of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades led by Andres Marin reached the summit yesterday and will descending to the trailhead this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
It’s a beautiful day here at Everest Base Camp.
RMI Expedition Leader Dave Hahn and our team of climbers and Sherpa left Base Camp early this morning en route to Camp 1. The team made great time through the Khumbu Ice fall and up to almost 20,000'. They are now tucked in comfortably at Camp 1.
Their plan for tomorrow is another early start to climb up to Camp 2. The Western Cwm can get quite warm with its high ice walls and an early start will get them through with some cooler temperatures. The team will spend several nights at Camp 2 (21,000') to acclimatize. While at Camp 2 they will be accompanied by climbing Sherpa Lam Babu and Tsering as well as our cook Yubarj.
Two members of our Sherpa staff, Kaji and Dawa, went to Camp 2 a few days ago to ready the camp for the team’s arrival and have now returned to Base Camp.
I attended a meeting today here at Base Camp to discuss the plan for getting the rope up to the South Col and finishing the route work. Things went well at the meeting with a great amount of support and cooperation amongst the teams.
Life is good here on the glacier.
Till next time,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Way to go team! Best of luck to everyone on this rotation! Each and every day I look forward to seeing a new post so thank you for keeping us updated! Stay strong and be safe—we are thinking of you always!
Posted by: Martin on 4/28/2011 at 6:38 pm
These are busy days at basecamp. The trail into camp is still quite full with trekkers, porters and yak trains. Most, although not all, climbers have now reached base, and the Puja poles with their colorful webs of prayer flags now form an intersecting canopy over the entire area. Each morning, teams of Sherpas are heading up into the Icefall carrying loads and a few teams have their members sleeping up at Camps 1 and 2 already.
I'm not in a big hurry to get through the Icefall with Erica just yet. The route, although complete when I checked it out the other day, could still stand to be tracked in and improved somewhat. And I'd just as soon have my seventeen-year-old client as ready as possible when we go through to Camp 1 for the first time. So our plan has been to keep training and acclimating ... which, it turns out, is not a bad way to pass the time in this place. Yesterday, while half-a-dozen of the team made the early start and tagged C1, Erica and I got a full night's sleep, ate a fine breakfast, and then set out for a good day of walking. We made our way down to Gorak Shep, banged a right turn up into the hills, and began to climb Kalapathar. The weather was perfect throughout most of the day and our views were unlimited and improving as we climbed. We could look back to the peaks that had lined our path on the trek in, with Thamserku, Kangtega, and Ama Dablam in the distance. Tawoche, Cholatse, Nuptse and Pumori were big and beautiful a little closer in. To the east, Lingtren, Changtse and a big, dark, high pyramid by the name of Everest were stunning. From the top, Erica and I could see the South Col and part of the Lhotse Face. I was surprised when a Slovenian climber near Kalapathar's summit recognized me from the time in 1997 when we were alongside one another on Vinson in Antarctica. But such meetings are not uncommon here.
We cruised on down to Gorak Shep for a drink and a rest at the outdoor tables, chatting with trekkers while watching a few soaring birds. We rallied for the hike back up to basecamp and compared notes there with Ed Viesturs, who'd gone for the same circuit a bit earlier in the day.
Today was generally a good rest day in basecamp, which means meetings for those of us who endeavor to figure out schedules and strategies and future meeting possibilities. Erica and I did bust out of camp for a fine walk in the lower glacier before lunch. I love getting out there to explore ... note that I normally refer to walking "in" the glacier near basecamp, whereas anywhere else in the world it would be normal to talk about climbing "on" a glacier. In this particular section of the Khumbu, which is devoid of snow cover, one walks up and down hidden gullies and waterways in the ice. I like to get out to easier walking on a medial moraine of rock and then to find a new way home through the ice with a different gully each time. This time I was able to show Erica a few old logs that had been used for crevasse bridges in the days before ladders. These, of course, had originally been placed up in the Icefall and had been carried down with the passage of decades. Even so, the logs still clearly bore the crampon scars of whichever famous climbers had scrambled across them.
After lunch, our camp was quiet with napping and a few board games. I joined Peter Whittaker, Jeff Martin and Linden Mallory for a short walk to Damian Benegas' camp, where an initial team-leader meeting had been called for. There was plenty of handshaking and backslapping among those gathered. All of the usual suspects of South Side Everest climbing, plus the former North Siders who've all given up on the Chinese restrictions on entrance to Tibet-The big players-IMG and HimEx, Adventure Consultants and Jagged Globe were there, along with Croatians, Russians, Kazakhs, Koreans, Irish, Spanish, Swiss and Canadians. Willie and Damian Benegas went over the group business with input from those assembled. We tried to figure out radio frequency overlaps and attempted to pool resources for rescues and rope fixing. The gang agreed to meet tomorrow to build a helipad to the west of camp. I helped myself to popcorn and pimento-stuffed green olives from the Benegas table while the big business was conducted and the hors d'oeuvres were sadly being overlooked. The olives were tasty and the meeting therefore a great and friendly success.
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Way to go Ben and Kara! Summited on Claire’s Birthday.
Posted by: Dad, Connie and Claire on 8/8/2013 at 6:20 pm
So happy for you Kara, Ben and Jeff! You’ve worked so hard for this… I am so proud!! Come home safely, I can’t wait to hear about everything. I love you!!
Posted by: Chris sand on 8/7/2013 at 8:44 pm
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