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We caught our first real views of the mountain this morning when we emerged from the Barrels. The clouds were low in the valley below us, and above Mt. Elbrus rose clearly in the morning light. We could see the entire first portion of the route and high above, several teams were visible traversing into the saddle between the two summits of Mt. Elbrus. We set out on our acclimatization hike shortly after breakfast. The cold night temperatures left the snow still frozen firmly, giving our crampons good purchase. We retraced our route from yesterday, quickly passing our high point and gaining elevation. By late morning the clouds returned and we climbed in a fog bank, occasional rock outcroppings appearing out of the mist ahead and gradually disappearing below us. By the time we reached around 14,400' - the same height as Mt. Rainier - a cold breeze picked up and we climbed the remaining portion in our jackets with the hoods pulled closely to protect us from the wind. We reached Pastuhkova Rocks, at 15,100', and dropped our packs, resting in the thin air of today's high point before returning to the hut for a late lunch. The team climbed well today, negotiating the altitude and varying weather conditions well. It was a long day on our feet and we are looking forward to a mellow day tomorrow to brush up on some of the final training we still need to cover and get in a restful afternoon before our planned summit bid on Saturday. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Seth Waterfall topped Mt. Rainier in very calm winds and beautiful skies. The teams checked in at 7:15 a.m. and had already began their descent from the crater rim. With the cloud layer just below Paradise, they have been enjoying the view since sunrise and the weather should stay in their favor as the sun continues to shine upon them. Congratulations to today's teams!

It wasn't a flawless day. There were plenty of clouds about, and it looked mean and nasty up high on the mountain, but it was certainly nice enough where we were. We left 11 camp at ten minutes past ten, ground on up motorcycle and squirrel hills in low gear and came out into the polo fields below the end of the West Buttress. Another good uphill walk took us past our cache point from the other day and into definitely-not-windy-corner. We went around the corner in perfect conditions, but all agreed it was pretty tough traversing the snowy side hill with a sled threatening to pull one off the track. It began to snow on us a bit, but by this point it was welcome as it kept us from overheating as we wound around, between and over the top of giant crevasses on the final hour into our destination. We pulled into camp at 14,200 ft at a few minutes past five, completing our biggest day yet. Temps were noticeably cooler up so high and there was a light breeze blowing through 14 camp, so we couldn't pause long enough to pat ourselves on the back or to gaze up in wonder at the West Buttress and the South Peak of Denali... we needed to get tents up and anchored down. We simultaneously got that done, a kitchen up and running to melt large quantities of snow (we were all parched), a dining area dug in and covered and a latrine in place. We are getting well practiced at high altitude, cold-camp construction. Just as we sat down for dinner at 8 PM, it was time to turn on a radio to catch the nightly forecast for mountain weather. It isn't a terribly stable outlook, but we do hope Adam Knoff's RMI team at 17,200 ft can hang in there and get lucky. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Hello, this is Jake with the RMI Mexico team. Everybody made up to high camp today doing well and climbing in good style. We have now set up camp, hung out, relaxed for a little bit and we're doing a little snow school review with Dan and Fernando before dinner. So all is well up here and we will be checking in tomorrow. Wish us luck. If this weather holds, then we're gonna go for the top tonight so we'll be checking in hopefully from up there. Alright. Bye. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

The day had its ups and downs. We left Dhole (at 13,250ft) just after breakfast and continued our trip down the magnificent gorge. There were waterfalls everywhere and we enjoyed being back among trees, shrubs, and grasses. After a little more than an hour, we had bottomed out below 12,000 ft and needed to start climbing again. The team are old hands at going uphill in the Himalaya by now, and so we cruised the switchbacks and crushed any and all competition. 

It was delightful to take tea sitting outside where we crested at 13,000 ft. Once again, we were looking directly out at Ama Dablam (to say nothing of Kangtega and Thamserku) just across the valley.  For a time, we were back in the “traffic” of tourists, porters, and yaks on the main route to and from Everest Basecamp, but we ventured into much quieter terrain by taking a turn up toward Khumjung, a beautiful village just over the hill from Namche. We ate lunch there, next to the famed Hillary School, and then walked a final hour in swirling clouds to reach Namche Bazaar once again. 

The gang is happy to be back in the lap of relative luxury. Camp De Base seems like the Ritz to us now. Showers and shopping were in order, along with comfortable beds. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Holà from Huaraz!

We arrived back in the bustling mountain city last night after an adventurous egress on the ever winding remote backroads and unexpected road construction. Nevertheless, our bus driver Levian got us back safely despite having to build a few modest bridges over fresh concrete in the process...Always a good time!

Our week in the Ishinca Valley was surely not one to disappoint. Below are just a few captured moments of our last six days spent learning skills and climbing in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. Tonight we celebrate our hard work and a great team effort on our last night in the mountains before we head back to Sea Level tomorrow as we begin the long journey to Lima. 

Salud!

RMI Guides Alan Davis & Tatum Whatford

PC: Alan Davis

At 7:50 a.m. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer radioed from the highest point in Washington, Columbia Crest on Mt. Rainier! It’s a clear day, light winds and a good route. After the the team walked back across the crater, they began their descent at 8:30 a.m.

Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

RMI Guide Jess Matthews and the Five Day Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning with perfect weather conditions. The team reported warm temperatures and zero wind. After spending some time celebrating on the summit the team began their descent to Camp Muir shortly after 9:00 AM. The team will be back in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations climbers!

Hi guys, this is Mike checking in from the 11k camp on Denali. All is well. We decided to spend another day here at 11,200' instead of moving up to 14,200' today. We are spending the day resting, eating, and getting more acclimated to the altitude before venturing higher. We are hoping to move up to 14k tomorrow, weather pending. Until then, we're enjoying the sunny, hot weather and just lazing around. Hopefully our next dispatch will be from higher ground. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Sunday, July 2, 2023

While it hasn’t been unlike Denali to act up at inopportune times. Today was a low blow. We descended from High Camp today under mostly clear skies and on top of tired legs. We were awarded new views from the West Buttress that were previously shrouded and the team descended fast and well.

At 14,000' Camp we took a good break and then kept the train going. Clouds were billowing, wind was picking up, and snow was falling as we passed Windy Corner, which once again held true to its name. A storm was coming. We’re in that storm right now, hoping for it to abate and to get off the mountain we’ve called home for the past 19 days.

We’re hopeful, but not too optimistic we’ll be able to walk to the airstrip tomorrow.

Wish us luck. 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli