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The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz June 11 - 16, 2023 led by RMI Guide Eric Frank reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Kautz Glacier. After two days of training at BaseCamp and Paradise the team began their ascent via Paradise. They established camp and spent the next two nights on the mountain practice and learning more alpine skills including some crevasse rescue training. This morning the team made their summit attempt, they checked in around 7:30 from just below the Wapowety Cleaver. Eric reported a beautiful day with no wind and warm temperatures. However, when they reached the summit the winds were strong. The team enjoyed a bit of time on the summit before starting their descent back to camp. They will stay tonight on the mountain and continue their descent tomorrow, perhaps with a bit more training.
Nice climbing team!
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Tatum Whatford, Seth Burns
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 8,000'
Tuesday, June 21, 2022 - 10:02 pm PT
The alarm rang at 12:30 AM today. We sprang right up, ready to escape basecamp and truly get this expedition underway. Skies were clear -which was exactly what we were hoping for in order to get the glacier surface well frozen. Travel is easier when walking atop the snow rather than sinking in, travel is safer when the snow bridging crevasses is frozen solid, and travel is more pleasant when it is cool. We dressed up, had a breakfast together and then we split up to knock down tents and get geared for travel. There is plenty to do on such a morning. Especially the first morning for a team. We were still getting ready three hours later and finally the rope teams started moving at 3:40 AM. We began by going downhill to the main Kahiltna Glacier. It was hard work, trudging along on snowshoes under heavy packs and pulling fully loaded sleds. But it was made pleasant by the incredible scenery - it was particularly beautiful seeing the colorful early morning sunshine lighting the upper slopes of Mt. Foraker. We met a handful of guided teams “heading for the barn”. They’d been successful in reaching the top and were excited to be in the final stretches. Always enjoyable for the guides on our team to see friends from other companies and other continents.
Progress was steady and conditions were good enough. The glacier has obviously lost a lot of snow in recent warm and dry weeks and so crevasse bridges were sagging, but workable. We pulled into our intended camp at the base of Ski Hill (8000’) after about six hours. There was a fair bit of work -as always- to dig a new home in the snow, but we got it done and we’re able to dive in the tents so as to get some well earned naps and some time out of the sun. By our dinner in the dining tent, snow clouds were pushing in from the north and spitting moisture our way. Temperatures were on the chilly side as we did final chores and turned in for the evening. We hope to do a “carry” tomorrow, if given half a chance.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: JM Gorum, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
Monday, May 24, 2021 - 11:13 pm PT
We made it in to base camp last night. We landed at our new home in the Alaska range around 7pm and got to work building camp. It took us about two hours to get settled in, and then we had a late dinner consisting of Talkeetna’s finest Mountain High Pizza Pie. It’s hardly ever a bad call to fly on to the glacier with four large pizzas.
This morning we had a leisurely start, waiting until the sun hit our tents around 8am. We drank some coffee and ate some toasty bagels, and then we got to work. Today was a skills focused day. We worked on footwork, rope travel, knots, and anchors. We didn’t venture too far out of camp, but we did do a little tour of the new neighborhood. Along the way we scoped out some crevasses that should work nicely for practicing rescue in the next few days.
We’re turning in now, tomorrow we’re going to get up a little earlier and put our newly practiced skills to use on a smaller climb close to camp. We’ll let you know how it goes.
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
On the road again! We said goodbye to Aconcagua Camp 1 today and hello to Camp 2. It was a beautiful morning for breaking down camp, with virtually no wind and the sun shining down on us. As we waited for the porters to come help carry some gear, we saw a furry critter scamper across the slopes above. Our guess is it was a fox. Its always exciting see wildlife. After jamming out to tunes in our respective earbuds, we arrived at camp. Camp was a lot quieter from when we left it on our carry day. Other teams moved to high camp, creating space for us. Once again we set up camp and began nesting in our new home. Summit day is just around the corner, but first we will do a carry to high camp tomorrow and rest the following day. The air is a little colder at our new camp. The zipper on our sleeping bags will go a tad higher tonight to keep in the warmth.
Happy friday everyone,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
On The Map
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On The Map
James,
Cheers, what a challenge! Trust that you will be well hydrated and alert all the way to the summit with high spirit. Continue your adventure safely and enjoy what nature offers there. Following RMI blog. Praying for you and the team successful journey. Love, mom and dad
Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/9/2013 at 5:27 pm
Go Fallout Go!!
Sounds like the team is doing great…keep it up!
sincerely,
-Deputy Dawg
Posted by: Steve Kennedy on 6/9/2013 at 4:50 pm
On The Map
Elsie,
betts has been in touch with Charlotte and getting the scoop on your adventure.
Safe travels, hope the weather is good and can’t wait to hear all about it!!,
love,
Mary and Betts
Posted by: Mary Talbot on 3/25/2013 at 7:11 pm
Love seeing the photos…what an incredible experience! Everyone sends their love..Lissie, pick a nice rock for your collection! Love you, Nano
Mom, hope you are having a wonderful time on your Himalayan adventure!
-char, Jeb, Will, Eli
Posted by: Nancy Cole on 3/25/2013 at 2:35 pm
On The Map
This is Kevin’s wife… Your March 4 breakfast and dinner sounds fabulous. Kevin said he would be roughing it, but now I think he’s really on a spa vacation with Bill.
Posted by: Lynn Larson on 3/5/2013 at 5:10 am
Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
On The Map
All the best for the head wall and beyond. Let us know that you’re all doing fine please.
Posted by: AK on 6/16/2012 at 3:53 pm
Great climbing everyone, keep it up. Bob, the summit is around the corner, stay strong! Everything good at home.
Posted by: John Spinks on 6/15/2012 at 8:11 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Doing great Pops! Wonderful to see your progress and a picture of you! Keep up the good work! We love you!
Love, Noel, Xander, and Nora
Posted by: Noel Imfeld on 1/18/2020 at 1:42 pm
Keep on Trucking Sue! You are going to nail this one!
Posted by: Russ Frederickson on 1/18/2020 at 7:25 am
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