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Friday, June 7, 2013
Happy 100 Year Anniversary of the first ascent of Denali to all our friends in the lowlands! We celebrated the occasion by leaving Basecamp for our first camp at the base of Ski Hill. On our way we ran into RMI Team 3 with Brent, Leah and Logan, fresh (generous term) from the summit. A big congratulations for a job well done.
We travelled early this morning, making use of the cooler temps to stay on the surface of the snow instead of post holing our way into utter frustration. Our way to camp was smooth and we can only hope the melting snow doesn't disappear too fast so that we can make our way out of here in a few weeks. I'm sure it will work out just fine.
We plan on calling it early tonight and carrying higher early tomorrow morning while it's still cold and then we can soak up the heat in the afternoon. The team is off to a great start, climbing strong and happy to be on the mountain.
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
On The Map
Today the team awoke to a gorgeous sunrise in the mountains. Typically the weather can be sunny in the morning and then the clouds engulf the surrounding mountains including Elbrus. However, today the mountain has been out in all its glory.
After an early breakfast we threw the rucksacks over our shoulders, strapped crampons to our boots and we went for a four-hour acclimatization hike. We made it to 15,000 feet and enjoyed the views as they only got prettier the higher we went.
We are back at camp, after a nice lunch (Albina makes the tastiest soups) we are resting in our hut. As a matter of fact, I hear the movie Dumb & Dumber playing on someone's iPad. Gotta go...
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Posted by: Kel Rossiter, Tyler Reid
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb May 25 - 28, 2012, led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Kel Rossiter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported moderate westerly winds and cold temperatures. The skies were clear above with a cloud deck below around 10,000'. The teams began their descent at 9:31 a.m. from the crater rim en route to Camp Muir. They will continue to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Hello everyone,
This is RMI Guide JJ Justman checking in. We want to let everyone following our Mexico's Volcanoes Expedition know that we are at high camp on Ixta (14,750ft). The Team is doing fantastic. We are preparing for our summit bid tomorrow, so we are getting our water ready. We are planning on waking up around midnight and getting hot drinks going for our crew.
It is pretty unusual right now, there is a ton of snow that you don’t normally see here on Ixta, but it is actually making for some pretty nice climbing. Weather is calm there is no wind, so we will keep our fingers crossed. It’s looking like it is going to be a great day tomorrow, so stay tuned. We will check in again tomorrow and will hopefully have some great news. We are looking at a nice safe climb of Ixta.
Ciao from Mexico!
On The Map
Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
The Four Day Summit Climbs August 31 - 3 September were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Brent Okita & Zeb Blais reported poor visibility and increased winds and precipitation as the teams reached the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300'). The teams made the decision to turn around at that point and return to Camp Muir. The teams were able to relax at Camp Muir before starting their descent to Paradise. We look forward to meeting the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.
Turn around point very appropriate…Disappointment Ridge!
I know it is disappointing to not be able to attain your ultimate goal, but don’t discount the level of accomplishment you did achieve!
Congratulations to the team for all your dedication to the endeavor, and most especially to you Doug. You have pursued your dream and made us all exceedingly proud. Luv U and anxious to see you and hear all about it!
Mom Griz
Posted by: Nancy Crane on 9/5/2013 at 6:57 am
Dear Dan
Wow! What an adventure. You, the elements, and the mountain. Ain’t she magnificent? Even in the dark. Life will never be the same. Congratulations!to both of you!!
Love,
Kay
Posted by: Kay on 9/3/2013 at 5:44 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Elevation: 17,575'
We held a strategy session this morning and we set the date for a try on the summit. Weather is expected to improve as the next week goes by, but that was little consolation for those who were at the South Col last night and trying for the top this morning. Our sources tell us it was a no-go day due to high winds.
We are looking for a shot on the top somewhere in the May 22 to May 23 range, which will mean that we have one more day down in Basecamp to pack, sleep and eat.
Each day at the bottom of the mountain has started out with plenty of sun, so it seemed a little unfair that we sipped coffee in a damp, cold cloud this morning. It burned off before long though and we were treated to warm and springlike conditions with ice melting everywhere.
Camp seems very quiet at the moment as many people are already up the mountain and getting in place for their attempts on the top.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Ciao papu. good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :):) :) :) :) :)
Posted by: Elena Pellegrino on 5/17/2013 at 4:09 am
Good luck and I hope your window of opportunity opens for you all to have as close to perfect summit weather as can possibly be had.
ABQ Uptown#985 NM/CO
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/16/2013 at 2:32 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Despite being a rest day, today has flown by for the group. We were able to sleep in a bit, but most were woken at 7:30 to the park helicopter hovering low over camp, picking up barrels in a sling to be flown off the mountain. We took a leisurely breakfast of burritos with fresh veggies, bacon, cheese, and eggs, and then headed to the medical building for our obligatory check-up. Everyone passed with flying colors. Then it was time for gear sorting for our carry to Camp 1 tomorrow. This often takes longer than expected as everyone hemmed and hawed over how much lunch food and other items to bring up. To this point, we have been spoiled with the mules carrying most of our kit. From here up though, anything we bring up, we will carry down.
Sorting finished, everyone took a siesta, eating lunch, taking naps, playing cards, and reciting Chuck Norris jokes. Despite a forecast of clear weather for the foreseeable future, the clouds built this afternoon, and as we sit, it is snowing gently at Basecamp.
We'll have more news tomorrow when we are back from our carry. Ciao.
RMI Guides Mike King, Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, and the team
Kick some ass Rick!
Posted by: ben spina on 1/27/2013 at 6:25 pm
Waiting anxiously for the next update. I love and miss you Rick. Hope the trek to camp 1 was fun and uneventful.
XOXOXO
Carol
Posted by: Carol Crye Popp on 1/25/2013 at 3:41 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Happy New Year!
If you are reading this post, there’s a good chance that you are preparing for a mountain climb, or at least considering one! At this time of year many people charge into fitness like a horse bolting from the starting gates. It’s tempting to start the New Year with resolutions to improve fitness, eat better, change habits, and many other goals.
However, it is important to remember that the secret to athletic success is consistent and moderate effort. You may feel behind, your belt might be a little tight after the holidays and there are big goals nearing on the horizon. However, try and avoid the temptation to go crazy with fitness right now. By climbing a mountain, no matter the size, you’ve already chosen a highly motivating goal. Enjoy the training process and make it fun, positive, and healthy. Most of all, make it balanced; not too hard and not too easy; not too much and not too little. Each week, keep nudging your fitness forwards and you’ll make massive gains over the next months.
In my opinion, you don’t need a resolution. You have a very real and tangible goal that will motivate you forwards long after many New Year’s Resolutions are forgotten. Congratulations on choosing that goal!
If you are new to this blog, please take a look over the basics covered in the past few months, especially on planning your training and basic, key workouts like the Daily Dozen. I hope you’ve set aside time for some hiking and training this week to focus on your climb ahead. Enjoy the start to the New Year!
We look forward to introducing ‘Fit To Climb The Sixteen Week Training Program for Mount Rainier’ over the next few weeks, starting in February and we will map out a weekly training plan each Monday as part of the Fit to Climb Program.
- John Colver
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts with John and other readers on the RMI Blog!
Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis, Zeb Blais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Greetings from Mendoza! The entire team has arrived with all bags accounted for and after a siesta, team meeting and feast we are ready to head out tomorrow. When we get up we'll hopefully have a busy day, securing permits and driving to Penitentes to load up our gear for the Mulas and enjoy one last restaurant meal before hitting the trail. Wish us luck for our last bit of off-mountain logistics. It feels great to be one step closer to getting on the hill.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Godspeed to each of you! Know that this journey will change each of you in a deep way. It’s my dream to follow your footsteps within a few years. Can’t wait to hear from you as your adventure unfolds!
Posted by: Ken Hislop on 12/20/2012 at 5:56 am
It was a beautiful night at Camp 1 last night, without a light for miles the stars were simply stunning, covering the dark sky so thoroughly the whole expanse seemed to glow. Beneath it all, we slept soundly - tired from the day of climbing. When we awoke we had a leisurely breakfast, enjoying the morning sun and watching the clouds form, dissolve, and reform on the summit far above. Despite the pleasant weather at Camp 1, the weather up high looked unsettled again with clouds racing over the summit. We commented again on how fortunate we were to sneak in a successful summit.
Packing up all of our gear, we shouldered hefty packs and began our descent to Base Camp. It took a few minutes to get the legs loosened up but once we navigated back down through the scree and boulder fields we were again moving well. Taking a slightly more easterly trail on the descent from that which we came up, we visited a series of rock formations known as the Mushroom Rocks - towers of eroded rocks sporting broad flat tops, very reminiscent of landscapes found in the American West. Continuing on, we rejoined our original trail and descended back into a carpet of green and yellow as the alpine grasses and small shrubs are turning colors with the approach of fall.
At last, with tired feet we arrived at Base Camp, happy to drop the packs. Several of the Russian soldiers, temporarily stationed here since the helicopter crash up on the mountain, came over to congratulate us and convinced a few of the more courageous team members to take a dunk with them in the springs next to camp, which they informed us bubbles up at a scalding 2 degrees Celsius (~36F).
We are planning to return to Kislovodsk tomorrow, a day earlier than anticipated, to seek out some hot showers, clean clothes, and fresh food. Although the climb of Elbrus is behind us, a long journey still awaits us as we make our way back out of the Caucasus and to St. Petersburg on the shores of the Gulf of Finland. We are eager to set off on the next leg of our adventure.
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Bill “degrees of greatness”
Another great adventure….
Love the pictures
Sacramento, ca temperature108
Posted by: Bill&Cathy; on 6/9/2013 at 11:22 pm
great job, miss you and proud of you Barbara your amazing! All of you are amazing! Kalispell Montana
Posted by: jay rocha on 6/8/2013 at 7:22 am
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