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We had a great sunny day today and we took advantage of it by carrying a cache of gear to approximately 16,700' on the West Buttress proper, just below a prominent rock called Washburn's Thumb. In order to get there we climbed up the head wall on the north side of camp and ascended approximately 800' of steep, 50 degree ice with the help of fixed ropes and mechanical ascenders. The views were phenomenal. And everyone did very well with their first experience on the fixed ropes. We were out for eight hours today (ascending, descending, digging a hole for our cache, and relaxing up high on the ridge), and everyone is a little tuckered out from the long day and high altitude. That's to be expected, though. We'll take at least a full rest day to recover. Now we're in position to wait for a good weather window to move to high camp and go for the summit. It looks like the next few days will be pretty windy up high, so we'll be in a holding pattern until the weather improves. In the meantime we will be resting, eating, and mentally preparing for the strenuous climbing ahead of us. Also, I spoke with RMI Guide Billy Nugent via radio tonight. Apparently they are having technical difficulties and are unable to send email dispatches (their sat phone still works for communication though). They are camped at 9600' and doing well. They plan to move to to Camp 3 (11,200') tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter

Today, we achieved what we sought after and more. Waking up to a pool of mist, we were happy to be carrying feather light packs, compared to the last 2 days. With a break in the clouds and the moon to help light the way, we set off. It was everything we could do to catch a view, but we finally caught a glimpse and climbed high above the clouds just past Glacier Gap. The morning brought views our eyes couldn't believe. Passing onto the Cool Glacier, we new we were close. We pushed on through the switchbacks and snow on the final ridge until 100% of our team stood on top. It was 5 for 5 volcanoes in WA for some, and a first for others. Huge congratulations to our team for pushing through! We are now back at camp resting before we load up our heavy packs again and descend back to White Pass for the evening.

RMI Guides Ben Luedtke, Erika Birkeland, and team.

100% on Top! The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier team led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Pepper Dee reached the summit of Mt. Baker early today. The team had a great day of climbing with beautiful route and incredible views the entire climb. They settled back in camp at 6,800' where they will re-fuel, rest for the night. Tomorrow they get an early start, pack up camp and descend to the trailhead.

Congratulations team! 

Hi! This is Jess on Glacier Peak. We are on the summit! Perfect weather and conditions. We'll let you know when we're back to camp.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel

TREK TO BASE CAMP 

Our first start before sunrise, 

   The wake-up call came at five.

Soon the climbers were busy,

   Our camp was a beehive.

Quickly our duffles were packed,

   And our tents were taken down.

Our daypacks readied for travel,

   We were soon Base Camp bound.

Our first task of the day,

   Was a frigid river to cross.

The pain upon entering hit shockingly fast,

   But once forded no toes had been lost. 

Up Relenchos Valley we trekked, 

   Steep canyon walls on each side. 

We passed mesmerizing formations,

 That Jack our geologist would describe.

We stopped once and marveled, 

   At guanacos high on the hill.

Their grace and their splendor,

   We carry with us still.

We trekked all day on a trail of dust, 

   And rocks, and then more rocks.

Some big rocks to step over, 

   Some small ones in your socks.

Finally Base Camp came in sight, 

   We slightly quickened our pace.

3500’ gain, 7.9 miles in 6 hours, 

   This was truly no race.

We were warmly greeted at camp, 

   With cold drinks and snacks to eat.

The afternoon feast was ended,

   With a delicious chocolate treat.

We have all settled into camp life,

   Playing cards or just laying low.

As we think of the mountain, 

   And those we love down below.

By: RMI Climber Tim Cavanagh  

Cinco de Mayo and we are here with some nachos. No Margaritas, that will be later. Perfect weather, another beautiful day. Lots of prep work for the upcoming rotation. We took out the oxygen masks and regulators. They may use them if a night at Camp 3 becomes available. So important to double check the equipment before sending it up the hill. Our whole Sherpa team will start out early in the AM for Camp 2 and stay up there until Camp 3 is built and loads are in place at Camp 4. The Sherpa team is such a great group of men, we cannot thank them enough for all their help. The climbing team will rest one more day, then head up for the final rotation before the summit push. Dave and Seth have been doing fine work of all the details, what a couple of super guides we have leading this Expedition. A big shout out to Karla, Happy B-Day! Mt. Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

On The Map

Ecuador Skills Seminar 2013 is coming to a close. Although we did not attempt to climb the tallest of our three chosen mountains which should have taken place today, we settled for a 17,500 foot consolation prize, Illiniza Sur. We left our hostel this morning at 1 am and began the two hour approach to the hut at 1:45. Forty five minutes into the hike we had to stop and don rain gear to ward off the cold mist that was beginning to soak us. By the time we reached the hut the mist had turned to snow. Sadly the weather was not the only thing going south. By the time we were ready to depart, Jaime our local guide was too ill to continue, Suzanne was too knackered from her battle with a loose gut and Jan began to have stomach cramps. By the time we filed out, only Gary and Clark were able to ascend with both Casey and myself. With a one to one ratio the steep, technical terrain we encountered was greatly entertaining. Not to mention the weather broke just as we were approaching the glacier. From bottom to top and back again, this climb was a fantastic way to end our time together as a climbing team. I am really bummed we could not all stand on top together but tonight we become a party team. It is always important to remember the summit isn't everything. Tonight we are all ready for a grand fiesta of both food and spirits. Our time in Ecuador has been packed with good laughs, good climbing and great people. We will miss it. But now we are all deeply anticipating the reunion with family friends and ice climbing. Thanks to everyone who followed along and gave support. Hasta mañana. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Another excellent day on ice. We enjoyed an absolutely calm and beautiful day today as we broke camp down low and moved up high. We got moving by 2:15 PM (as usual it was bitterly cold before the sun came around at 11:30 AM) and moved well and efficiently up the steep fixed ropes. Our training from the carry two days ago and our rest from yesterday seemed to be paying dividends as it took just six hours to reach high camp. The tents were pitched and dinner got cooked. Naturally we talked over our plans and hopes for tomorrow. It could be our shot at the top, but of course everybody must have a good night first, and we need continued luck with the weather. Best regards from 13,000 ft, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Checking in from Vallunaraju Basecamp!

We had an early start from town and made our way up the rugged 4x4 roads to our Basecamp for the next couple nights at 14,600.

Upon arriving, we wasted no time and started our acclimatization approach to the glacier which currently sits at nearly 16,600. Here we spent the afternoon on Glacier travel skills, rope techniques, and arresting a fall. Once back at camp we enjoyed a hot meal of crusted trout and potatoes. Tomorrow we will rest.

RMI Guide Alan Davis

The Four Day Climb August 18 - 21 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier on a windy morning. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Joe Hoch and the summit climb teams spent a short amount of time at the crater as the winds are increasing. They will continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!