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Posted by: Adam Knoff, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Monday, January 30, 2023
It takes the sun seven minutes to send its rays to Earth. It likely took the same amount of time for those rays to wake up the team once the sun was shining upon camp. We awoke to sapphire blue skies with out a cloud to been seen. The temperature quickly began to climb as the solar radiation has little to deflect it at this altitude. We too would soon be climbing but not quickly! Here on this mighty stone sentinel, we are but turtles, slowly but surely heading uphill. A symphony of grunts, moans and creaking joints was heard as the team emerged from their tents. A most excellent breakfast of bacon, eggs and bagel sandwiches was served slowly, giving everyone time for their coffee to kick in and to slowly stretch and limber up their bodies. Today is our third day on the move and the team is feeling the repeated days of exertion at these high altitudes. This continued movement uphill with no rest days since basecamp is not a punishment for poor expedition behavior, but instead a strategic move. Getting to Camp 2 (also known as Guanacos Three) will put us within striking distance of Camp 3 and the summit. We will rest here, acclimatize, and wait for the best possible summit day to appear. Tonight we will settle into our new altitude, enjoying each others stories during dinner while we sit outside basking in the pleasant weather, taking in the magnanimous views of the Argentinian Andes laid out below us, as far as the eye can see.
With much love from high above,
RMI Guide Jack “Gator” Delaney and the team.
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
One of the keys to performance in endurance events such as distance running, cycling, swimming, or mountaineering, is to be able to put in a hard burst in the middle of your effort and then recover. We see Tour de France cyclists do this all the time, racing a full out sprint in the middle of a stage, then recovering for the final sprint 60 miles later. Runners do it when they make a break up a hill to get away from the field, and mountaineers need to be able to do it when getting through a tough stretch of Disappointment Cleaver or clambering over the bergschrund on the fixed lines on Denali. The ability to put on a burst AND recover while you maintain your activity is developed through interval training.
There are lots of different intervals that can be tailored to accomplish different goals, from natural rolling intervals (Fartlek Intervals), to the 4x4 interval workout. Another useful set of intervals are ladder intervals.
Ladder intervals are sets of increasing and/or decreasing intervals. Ladder intervals can be done in a variety of terrain, from flats, to rolling hills, to a hill climb. A common ladder set might be to do a 1-minute interval, then recover, then do a 2-minute interval, followed by a 4-minute effort, followed by a 6-minute interval. Once you reach your peak (you’ve worked your way up the ladder), start working your way back down, reversing the pattern. After the 6-minute interval, do a 4-minute interval, then a 2-minute interval, and then finish with a last 1-minute interval. As with all interval training, the goal is to complete each one at a similar pace. The 1-minute interval might naturally be a bit faster, but you want to avoid blowing yourself out in the first couple of intervals so that you are just surviving through the remainder.
Another important component to interval training is the recovery time. Recover for between 50-100 percent of the duration of the previous effort. For shorter intervals, recovery time might be closer to 100 percent (you might recover for 1 minute after a 1-minute interval) while longer intervals may be closer to 50 percent (for the 4 and 6-minute intervals). Recover for long enough that your heart rate has dropped and you feel ready for the next set, but not so long that your heart rate returns to a very low zone 1 or 2 effort level. Recovery is best accomplished actively, at a very slow jog, walk, or spin; after all, the ability to recover while moving is what we are trying to develop.
As with all training tools, the ladder intervals can be adjusted to fit your needs. Using longer sets (at a slower pace) will help to build your lactate threshold, while shorter (and faster) sets will help to build your anaerobic threshold and recovery. These can also be done over distances rather than time, such as on a track. An example might be a 100m, 200m, 400m, 800m, 400m, 200m, 100m. Remember that interval training requires a quality warm up and cool down, both to prevent injury, and allow you to perform and get the most out of the workout.
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Need a refresher on interval training? Learn more about general interval training…
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here!
very impressive post for mountain climber like me.i am very excited to do my next expedition after reading your article.
Thanks for sharing.
Posted by: Rajendra Timalsina on 5/14/2019 at 8:18 am
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On The Map
Robin,
Looks like you have an amazing view from up there!. I see that the movie quotes abound up there… wonder who that could be??:) Hope you are having a great time near the top of the world looking down on all us flat landers. Can’t wait to hear the stories and see the photos. Stay safe and stay warm.
Love DAD
Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/10/2013 at 10:53 am
Sounds like things are going well and the food certainly sounds good. I’ll eat just about about anything that has bacon or peanut butter on it. How’s the weather looking? I assume you’ll be looking for that 3-day clear window before leaving 14 camp. Wish I was there with all of you.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/10/2013 at 9:38 am
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Kel Rossiter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
Billy Nugent calls in from Denali High Camp.
On The Map
Hi Kel & Co~ So wonderful to be able to follow each step of your adventure. Good luck! My thoughts are with you all…
Posted by: Alysse on 5/30/2013 at 5:19 am
Hi Levi, we love the blog and pictures and seeing your adventures daily. Good luck to all on summit-ting! love ya, m&d
Posted by: Karla Kepsel on 5/29/2013 at 7:20 pm
On The Map
Aloha Chris. It’s your sister-in-law from Kauai. We are really proud of you for undertaking this big challenge. I think I will just stick to hiking the beaches! Good luck and stay safe. I know Nancy and Sammy are anxious for you to get home. Mary Kay
Posted by: Mary Kay on 3/28/2013 at 2:16 am
Hi Chris,
We want to hear all about the expedition on your return. Safe travels and enjoy every moment!
Posted by: Stacy & Jacquie on 3/26/2013 at 11:53 am
On The Map
Sounds like a great time. Go Team!!!!
Be safe Robert, see you on Christmas Eve.
Jo Ward
Posted by: Jo on 12/7/2012 at 4:33 pm
Good luck on your climb Mike!
Mike
Posted by: Mike on 12/7/2012 at 1:49 pm
On The Map
Way to go Eric! We are all following along with your journey here. Your two nephews and goddaughter wish you good luck and are anxiously awaiting your return. Noah and Ethan climbed the big sand dune at Warren Dunes this past weekend and Noah asked if it was as big as the mountain you were climbing. I told him it was close…
Posted by: Zach Schafer on 6/12/2012 at 8:24 am
Bob, keep it up bro, I know you can do it, one step at a time. You have a great team and the best of guides…to the top!
Posted by: John Spinks on 6/12/2012 at 5:56 am
It looks to my friends like I’m sitting at home in Marina del Rey, CA, but in reality I’m with you, heart and soul.
It’s my secret.
Stay safe and the best of luck to all of you!
Wolf
Posted by: wolf schmidt on 4/23/2011 at 9:17 am
Sara and Bill,
We continue to be amazed at what you two have accomplished. You all are in our thougths and prayers as you take on your next challenge. We’ll know not to take either of you on in a horseshoe match upon your return! Stay strong and enjoy your incredible journey. Larry, Virginia, Matthew and Andrew
Posted by: Virginia Shackelford on 4/21/2011 at 3:46 pm
Leif Whittaker at Camp 2
Brian way to go I am so proud of you way to go cannot wait to see the pictures
Posted by: Wanda Manderson on 8/30/2012 at 7:11 pm
Way to go, Brian! Can’t wait to see the pix and hear all about it!!
Posted by: Aunt Denise on 8/30/2012 at 4:11 pm
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