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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry Above fixed lines, Descend to 14,200 Camp

Saturday, July 3, 2021 - 9:15 pm PT

There was still a big cloud cap on Denali this morning, but at 6AM the winds didn’t seem too bad.  There were clouds in every other direction as well, but we were mostly looking up at the West Buttress as we ate breakfast and pondered a carry.  It seemed worth a shot.  We pulled the trigger and left camp just after 8 AM.  It was colder this morning than it had been… not extremely cold, but colder than we’ve yet experienced on the trip.  Our tracks -and anyone else’s- from yesterday were gone, so we had the added challenge of trail breaking in a few inches of new snow.  Even so, we made steady progress upward.  But the cloud cap made steady progress downward, so we were bound to come together.  We were in murk and light but cold winds by the base of the fixed ropes.  Which all made for a cold intro to climbing the steep, icy rope section.  Thankfully, the winds were blowing from behind us and so we stepped into much needed calm at our destination, which was just perfectly in the lee and sheltered by the crest of the West Buttress.  It was wonderful to hit our 16,200 ft target, but the clouds hid the grand views.  We quickly cached supplies and geared up for a descent facing into the cool wind.  A careful descent got us to 14,200 ft camp just as the sun came out there at 2:30 PM.  The afternoon and evening were calm and easy with occasional snow showers. The storm is definitely easing, but of course they are predicting that another will follow.  We’ll rest tomorrow in any case. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Happy Fourth of July, Hahn team!

Did you bring a few fireworks?

Marion & I hope your weather conditions cooperate.

Marion and Joe McEttrick

Posted by: Joseph P McEttrick on 7/4/2021 at 7:47 am


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team Returns from Ixta

Now our team is safely in Puebla, getting cleaned up and reorganized after a valiant effort on Ixta. As we pulled into our high camp yesterday afternoon our fingers were crossed tightly for a break in the weather. By the time we sat up to fire stoves, a ferocious snow storm pelted the tents and kept us at bay. It came down hard for a few hours, then the wind started. Camp remained in a wet windy cloud and still we waited, hoping for a spell in the storm. It never came. After a mostly sleepless night, the sun finally turned our cloud light and we started packing up. The team handled the sub-ideal conditions like true climbers, realistic that safety trumps all and hunkering down in this case was by far the most prudent choice. Now we rest in Puebla and get ready to head to Orizaba for the next climb, just a little hungrier. RMI Guides Jake Beren & J.J. Justman
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In Quito Preparing for the Cotopaxi Climb

It's Casey and Billy checking in from down south! We've been hanging out in Quito for the last couple of days and the whole crew is already having a blast, and being situated at over 9,000 ft, we've already begun our acclimatization for our climbs. The first day around town was excellent. After a great breakfast at "Spicy" aka the hotel restaurant, we hit the town on a city tour to get a dose of history and colonial architecture. We had the chance to visit the Basilica, Presidential Palace, among other incredible buildings dating back from Spanish colonial times. This place is OLD, compared to American cities. Quito was founded in 1532! After the city tour, the group split. Half of the team headed to the Plaza de Toros and the other half went to a cool museum along the equator. The crew at the plaza had the fortune to witness a series of bullfights. Definitely barbaric but also a unique cultural experience unique to countries with Spanish influence. The other team enjoyed the interesting exhibits and experiments at the equatorial museum. The evening brought a lively night out for the team. After reuniting back at the hotel everyone went out for an amazing dinner. Local music and dancing was a great addition to the dining experience. Filet Mignon, Malbec? Who knew that you could acclimatize in such style! Day 2 has thus far been a blast as well. The entire team headed up to the volcano Pichincha for a little exercise to help with the acclimation process. After a 40 minute gondola ride we were deposited high on the slopes of the volcano and were greeted by sweeping views of Cayambe and the city below. The high point for our hike brought us to approximately 14,300 ft.; nearly the summit of Mt. Rainier! The whole team is climbing and acclimating well thus far. Tonight, being Sunday, will hopefully turn out to be a bit quieter than the previous but we still plan to have another nice meal out on the town! Tomorrow we will to leave the city following an early wake-up and head out to the Illinizas for some more training. We hope all is well back home and will check back in as the trip progresses. Viva Quito!
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Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Sort Gear in Talkeetna

Sunday, June 19, 2022 - 11:29 p.m. PDT

We got a lot done today! Lots and lots of work to get gear checked and ready for loading on airplanes, but it was the kind of labor that -- when you get it behind you -- makes you realize that fun is just about to start. It was rainy and drizzling in Talkeetna today, and there wasn’t any airplane traffic to and from Kahiltna Base Camp. The pilots we spoke to said it was only their fourth “down day” of the season -- which is a pretty remarkable testament to the good and stable weather that climbers have enjoyed. 

We got started with a fine breakfast “meeting” at the hotel, introducing ourselves to one another. But then we moved out to the hangar to give gear checks and get sorted. We received our briefing from the National Park Service and caught up with current events on the mountain. Finally we weighed and labeled all the loads and with everything ready to go we quit for the day and had a nice relaxing outdoor dinner at the brewery in town.

Forecasts suggest we’ll get lucky in the morning. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn and team

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Mount Everest: Dave Hahn & Team Safely Land in Lukla and Trek to Phakding

Yesterday was a whirlwind marathon of packing and prepping in the chaos of Kathmandu. This morning was the staccato hurry up and wait of getting up and out to the airport and hanging to see if the weather would permit flying. Flying conditions weren't perfect when we got through security at the domestic terminal in Kathmandu. We ended up waiting several hours -swilling coffee, listening to music and people watching- until the pilots felt good about taking off for Lukla. Once up and out of the smog layers of the Kathmandu Valley, we were treated to stupendous views of the Himalaya. Those with port-side window seats could pick out Mt. Everest as the flight progressed. But we were only up about 45 minutes before the pilots put the Twin Otter into a dive. They had Lukla's crazy-angled airstrip in their sites and it was clear from the steep mountain walls all around that this was our one shot at parking the plane. Heart rates shot up, cameras were clicked on and the wheels touched down perfectly. A few minutes later, we were out of the plane and sitting in a quiet Tea House in the lower Khumbu Valley. We ate a leisurely lunch and got walking up valley. It only took a bit more than three hours to reach Phakding And Joe's Garden... Our lodge for the night. By that point, things had clouded over, but our luck held and the rain didn't fall. The team ate dinner and bedded down to the soothing sounds of the nearby river churning through endless rapids. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Nicole,
You are an inspiration! It was hard for you to leave but it will be so worth it.
I admire your discipline, hard work ethic, motivation and determination to succeed.
Enjoy the beauty, peace and serenity of the climb one step at a time.
I found…St. Bernard, patron saint of mountain climbers. A blessing.
Lord, we beg you to bless Nicole and crew, these ropes, staves, mattocks, and these other tools, so that all who will use them in scaling the mountains’ heights and precipices, in ice and snow and raging storms, may be preserved from all accidents and catastrophe, Safely reach the summits, and return unharmed to their homes; through Christ our Lord. Amen.
You are blessed and admired. God bless you on this special journey.
Peace,
Mary Grace

Posted by: Mary Grace on 3/31/2014 at 1:27 am

Cheering you on from New Jersey! Xo T

Posted by: Tatiana Burgos on 3/27/2014 at 6:27 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Team’s Last Day in St. Petersburg

Its a sad day. Our https://Mt. Elbrus Expedition is over. I cannot tell you how much fun I have had with both my teams in Russia this year. I have climbed the highest mountain in Europe with old friends and I have made new friends along the way. Tonight was the perfect way to end the adventure...on the canal waterways of one of the most magnificent cities in the world! Enjoy a glimpse of the beauty... https://RMI Guide J.J. Justman
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Aconcagua Expedition: Rest Day at Camp 1

Not much to report from Camp 1, which is to be expected on a rest day. The good weather continues to hold and the team seems rested and eager for tomorrow's move up to Camp 2. We've been passing the time catching rays (Mark--shirtless!), jamming our iPods, and of course good old fashioned reading. A full day in the tent can inspire some serious restlessness, which we hope will propel us upward tomorrow. Signing off, RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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To William - we’re all rooting for the “old man” with the heart of a lion and the perseverance of a mule.  Can’t wait to see you and, hopefully, lots of photos. Hope all goes well and that you’re enjoying (?) the challenge.

Much love from J, C & J.

Posted by: Judy on 2/11/2012 at 8:48 am

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MICHAEL.  Stay safe.  We all love you and will celebrate when you come home.  Love Mom

Posted by: Joyce on 2/11/2012 at 7:04 am


Mt. McKinley Expedition: RMI Guides Ed Viesturs and Seth Waterfall Fly onto the Glacier

This is Seth checking in from 7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. Today we awoke to clear skies in the Alaska Range. It was great to have a 'normal' day after a whirlwind start to our trip. Yesterday was supposed to be our packing day in Talkeetna but we had an opportunity to fly in the evening so we decided to go for it and now we're a day ahead of schedule. After a breakfast of bagels and smoked salmon we spent 5.5 hours on the trail. We then enjoyed some warm weather while we had dinner in camp. Now the sun is behind the mountains and everyone is tucked in their warm bags. It's been a great start to the trip. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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I will be praying Jim, for you and your team, that you have a safe trip.

Love Always,

Ann

Posted by: Ann Boyko on 5/6/2011 at 8:11 pm


Denali: Walter & Team Wait out Weather at 14k

Friday 5/26/2023 3:15 PM PT

Clouds and light snow are making a perfect atmosphere for a lazy rest day here at 14k. 

Strong winds high on the mountain are occasionally visible through breaks in the clouds. The warmth of our tents is conducive to lazing, reading, listening to music, and occasionally drifting off into a dreamy state of consciousness. 

Meanwhile, we're hoping that favorable weather allows us an opportunity to climb higher and push for the summit soon. 

Until then, we're embracing the tranquility of the mountains. 

Mike
 

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Go Team!  Make it happen!  It’s going to be epic!!!  You got this!!!! Perseverance and Patience….goal in sight!  Hoping for some solid blue sky and perfect climate!!!  Cheers from Talkeetna!!!  Susan

Posted by: Susan on 5/27/2023 at 9:39 am


Aconcagua Expedition: Scott & Team Day Hike to See the South Face of Aconcagua

Tuesday, January 11, 2022 - 10:22 am PT

Our acclimation day at Confluencia Camp started with a hearty breakfast and clear skies.  We then began our day hike to see the South face of Aconcagua.  The ascent was beautiful and paralleled a glacier as we approached Aconcagua.  Finally we reached the view.  Even with the upper portions of the mountain obscured by clouds, the face looked impressive.  On our way down, we found a little rain, but thankfully it let up once we returned to camp.  Now our attention turns to preparing to move to basecamp tomorrow.  

RMI Guide James Bealer

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Hooray Andy! Very excited for you!

Nope…I don’t feel lazy at all down here at sea level.

Posted by: Elsie on 1/12/2022 at 1:00 pm

Making progress!  Hope everyone stays safe and has fun.

Posted by: Ruth Baldock on 1/11/2022 at 11:06 am

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