We've strung together a number of important milestones over these past few days. The Puja ceremony was a symbolic starting point to the climbing portion of the expedition. It seemed to go off without a hitch as we sat in warm sunshine and calm air for the morning... staring up into the Khumbu Icefall as we listened to the chanting and drums of the monks. We were lucky enough to have the docs from "Everest ER", the HRA clinic, as guests at the Puja and even a few of our good friends from the "Icefall Doctors" team. The Icefall Docs were taking a well-deserved day off from fixing the route up to Camp I. Ang Nima, who has been building climbing routes on Mount Everest since the 1970's, told me they were waiting for a new shipment of rope from down-valley anyway, so relaxing at our puja was the perfect way to pass a morning, getting a little more blessing from the gods for the dangerous and essential job they perform.
We were blessed at the end of the Puja to see Mark Tucker marching into camp. Tuck is our Base Camp Manager and is well-known as the de-facto mayor of the little community that springs to life about this time each year. Tuck and I started guiding together on Mount Rainier in 1986 and have been together on many expeditions to weird parts of the world, so on a personal level I was quite happy to see my friend arrive on the scene. Tuck got to work quickly, hunkering down with Jeff Martin to coordinate logistics and inventory lists in advance of Jeff's departure. He also began immediately to scope out venues on the rough glacial moraine for golf, baseball and horseshoes... all the normal mountain-climbing related diversions. Bill was plenty happy to have another worthy games and contests opponent around... so he could get busy walloping Tuck at everything.
The day after the Puja, we took the opportunity to go for a little practice session on ladders and fixed rope climbing not so far from Base Camp. Lam Babu and his crew quickly established a little jungle gym of obstacles for us to practice on and Bill, Sara and I took full advantage. Despite the fact that the weather was swinging every ten minutes between blazing sun and freezing snow-showers, we did a number of laps across canyons and up sidewalls to get the hang of steel crampons scratching on aluminum ladder rungs.
Yesterday was quite a significant day for our overall team as Camp I and Camp II were established. The Icefall Docs had managed to complete the route to CI while we were practicing on our jungle gym and Lam Babu, Tshering, Dawa and Kami meant to be there in force for yesterday's "opening" of the Icefall route. If at all possible, I wanted to join our climbing Sherpas so as to survey the condition of the Icefall route and in order to have some positive input on the siting of Camp I. We woke at 4:15 AM, choked down some rice porridge and coffee (I went for the coffee, the Sherpas preferred tea) and we got walking out of camp by headlight at 5 AM. There were only a handful of Sherpas from other teams out on this morning, walking in a few inches of new overnight snow. Most of these other climbers were on a sort of homesteading land-grab... shooting up with light packs to claim favored spots at Camp I and II. This was only partly a concern of ours, since our team is relatively small and finding suitable campsites won't really be that big a deal, but none-the-less having our pick of sites is still a good thing. In contrast to the others on the route, each of our team had a decent sized load of climbing and rescue gear bound for caching at CI. Tshering, Dawa and Kami set a more aggressive pace for the day while Lam Babu stayed back with the lightly acclimated and elderly team leader (me). There were the usual number of places where I had to hold my breath and swallow my fear in order to balance along some ridiculous bridge under some preposterously leaning tower or wall of heavy and hard ice... but sure enough, the Ice Docs had found a way to the top. I came to realize why they'd needed more rope since I could see that a good section of their ladders and rope already had avalanche debris burying it in the mid-section of the route to CI. Lam Babu and I made it up into the Western Cwm and to Camp I in a little under four hours. By this point, Tshering and Dawa had determined that it was worth their effort to rope to one-another and proceed on up to Camp II (ABC). Kami, Lam Babu and I contented ourselves with marking out the perfect site at CI... off the main herd-path, out of major avalanche debris fields, and free of crevasse hazard. We secured our cached gear and got busy descending. I always find the Khumbu Icefall to be tricky and difficult, but this time I think it was a little more-so since the route was so new that it hadn't been tracked in and trouble-shot just yet. The numerous little walls that needed negotiating just had scratch marks, whereas in a week of heavy traffic, they'll develop nice bucket steps and handholds. The troubleshooting that I expect will occur results from a few hundred sets of errant feet finding all of the hollow spots along the edges (and occasionally in the middle) of the track. Yesterday, I was the troubleshooter and naturally I stuck my big size 14.5 boots a few places that I instantly regretted. Kami and Lam Babu looked back at my shrieks and groans a few times to see if I was still upright and viable. Even so, we bounced down and out of the Ice by about noon and I met Bill, Sara and Tuck on a training hike, enjoying the fine morning sunshine. By the time we were back at camp for lunch it was cloudy and snowing again. Tshering and Dawa raised our flag at ABC... 21,300 ft and I'm quite proud of that effort and of their safe descent afterward. I'm also excited that we got our Camp I gear in place at 19,900 ft. We enjoyed one last lunch with Jeff Martin before he headed down valley to get back to work managing things on far-off Mount Rainier.
Things are humming along at Mount Everest. Today we are listening to the sounds of about a dozen Pujas taking place around the area as most of the big climbing teams are now on scene. We've been visited by a number of friends coming by to check up on us and between social calls we are taking the morning off from climbing... time for some washing up and basking in the temporary sunshine before the daily snows.
Best,
Dave Hahn
hi dave and all…as i read your words i can just imagine the sights, the sounds, and the size of your boots..hahaha…thanks for bringing everest to me…i dream of seeing the full moon from there…hope you enjoy it…i’ll be looking at it tonite from my home in taos…best…nancy…
Posted by: nancy janosko on 4/16/2011 at 4:03 pm
Fantastic updates and pictures! Thinking of you and sending as much positive energy as i can from 1,200 ft above sea level….
Yesterday's clouds drifted away in the night. We woke to crystal clear skies over Phakding and unimpeded views of giant snow-covered mountains. After a fine breakfast, the gang was on the trail just after 8:30 AM. Although I'd warned over and over that the trail would be busy with trekkers, porters and pack animals, we had it pretty much to ourselves. The trail wound up and down along the constant whitewater of the Dudh Khosi. We strolled through pine forests and picturesque farmland at the bottom of a deep gorge. We entered Sagarmatha National Park and stopped for lunch in the small village of Jorsalle, sitting outside in the sunshine. Then it was all business, up through the big trees and the big hills leading to Namche Bazaar. A new suspension bridge had been built at the foot of the big hill, taking us hundreds of feet in the air across the gorge. The team went at the final hill with gusto, taking a break partway up to enjoy the first distant glimpses of Mount Everest.
We rolled into Namche and our home for the next three nights at about 2:30 PM, leaving plenty of time for naps, shopping and internet.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
Lee, Travis, and Norm . . . we are fascinated by the posts, information, and photos. Enjoy the experience!
Posted by: Kevin on 3/28/2014 at 10:58 am
Nicole, This looks to be an amazing journey so far, and it is only the beginning. I am so happy for you that you are fulfilling your dream. Be safe every day and enjoy every minute. I miss you very much.
Love your #1 fan, forever. Mike.
Well, well, well! Here we are! High Camp at 19,600 feet. And let me tell ya, it is great to be here in the thin air. It's like I tell my climbers, "The higher we go, the better we feel!" And even though it goes against physiology at altitude, I believe the mental mantra is working. Everyone is feeling great!
Tomorrow is summit day. We have a great forecast and we are keeping our fingers crossed. Most likely we will have light winds and some clouds building late afternoon. It is looking like a beautiful day. With that said, I have a challenge for you RMI blog enthusiasts, and make sure you share this challenge with as many folks you know.
On this blog post click on the comment button and place your guess. What time (Argentina Time: ART) will our team summit Aconcagua tomorrow December 17th? Our team will be leaving high camp around 5 AM (ART).
Whoever gets the closest time will win an RMI t-shirt and baseball cap. Please include your email address along with your answer.
Again put your guess in the comment section of this blog posting only.
Wish us luck!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Last night, after the snow firmed up enough for efficient travel, we packed up camp and moved up to our new camp at 9600'; this included tackling Ski Hill, our first big hill of the trip. Everyone did a great job hauling sleds and heavy packs up to camp. We slept in this morning (8 hours of sleep!) and had a relaxing brunch in our newly constructed cook tent. We are planning to lounge around a bit, rehydrating and resting, in preparation for our next move up to 11,200'. The weather is nice right now, with partly cloudy skies and a moderate wind out of the north. We'll be in touch again soon, hopefully nestled into a cozy camp at 11,200'.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Wishing everyone a continued safe hike. Please pass on to Dr. Riester that we wish him a wonderful time, and a continued safe adventure. Keeping everyone in our prayers. Enjoy the beauty of nature !!!
Posted by: Lisa VanNostran on 6/19/2012 at 7:22 am
Wow, and we are going to be in the 90’s in Vermont.
Have a wonderful time and we will watch for news!
Posted by: Helen and Toons on 6/18/2012 at 12:02 pm
Saturday market at its best here in Namche Bazaar. Not so much for tourist but keeps the locals in much needed goods. Had great views of Everest and surrounding peaks till mid day when clouds rolled in. Hope for clearing in the morning for the climb up to Deboche. We will take the longer route to visit Khumjum where the Hilary school, and of course the bakery, are located. We stayed around Namche today opting to see them tomorrow.
Team is doing well and are ready for a move up the hill.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Everyone (and their baggage) arrived on time in Anchorage yesterday, and we headed north to the small town of Talkeetna. We had a relaxing evening, eating dinner as a group at the famous West Rib Pub, talking about the trip, and getting to know each other. This morning we met at the the Talkeetna Roadhouse for a group breakfast to formalize our plans for packing and preparing for our upcoming expedition. Talkeetna is a small and unique town; situated on the south side of Denali National Park, it is the staging point for hundreds of climbers who venture into the Alaska Range. Town is still sleepy this time of year, just coming out of its winter hibernation; the streets are quiet, few airplanes are in the air, and patches of snow are still in the yards. When we return in a few weeks, Talkeetna will be in full swing; tourists and climbers will be walking through the streets, the air will be filled with the buzz of single engine aircraft (and mosquitoes), and all of the trees and lawns will be green.
Most of the day today was spent at the hangar of our bush pilots, K2 Aviation, packing our gear and going over all of our equipment. While we all have spent months planning this trip, today was still a very busy day making sure we had the right gear for the trip, inspecting our tents and stoves, and double and triple checking everything.
We also met with a National Park Service climbing ranger for a formal orientation to Denali, which included a slide show of our climbing route.
We plan to fly into Kahiltna Base Camp tomorrow (weather permitting) to start our adventure. We will be in touch with detailed dispatches throughout the trip. Everyone says hello to our friends and loved ones back home. Here’s to a safe and successful trip!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
What a great adventure! I’ll bet you don’t know that Mrs. Richardson’s fifth and sixth graders in Indianapolis are traveling alongside you!
Regards,
LA
Posted by: Lee Ann Richardson on 5/6/2011 at 9:51 am
Kenny and team-
Good luck. Excited to hear about this adventure. I hope you have fair weather conditions and a safe, fantastic climb for all. Chris Mannschreck
Minden, Nevada
Posted by: chris mannschreck on 5/5/2011 at 7:48 pm
The evenings clouds lifted over night and morning broke with clear skies above Namche. The Kongde massif, sitting directly across the valley shimmered with freshly fallen snow. As we emerged from our sleeping bags the sounds of the waking village seeped in through the thin teahouse walls. Chickens, dogs, and the bells of yaks and dzopkyos combined with the cries of children preparing for school and the faint tinking of stone masons beginning their day's work laboriously carving the stone into finely crafted blocks for the growing number of lodges being built in Namche.
Built in a horse shoe shaped bowl tucked into the hillside above the confluence of the Bhote Valley and the main Khumbu Valley, Namche is the largest village in the Khumbu and a cultural and trade center for the region. Vegetables and fresh goods are brought up from further down the valley while every summer Tibetan traders bring goods on yak over the passes further up to trade here. The town is built into a steep hillside and the tiny streets that criss-cross throughout are built of stone and plied by locals, trekkers, traders, yaks, and dogs alike. It is a bust, vibrant, and exciting place. This morning was Namche weekly market when locals from the nearby village come to purchase goods and after breakfast we wandered among the blankets of goods laid out on a series of terraces on the edges of town. Everything from fresh grapes and tangerines to chickens, peanuts, batteries, and cases of Red Bull were for sale there, offering a fascinating and often amusing scene.
After exploring the market we climbed to a shallow saddle to the east of Namche where the National Park headquarters, army post, and museum of the Park are located. From the knoll where they sit we caught our first view of the Everest panorama further up the valley. Already starting to hide among the clouds by midmorning, we caught occasional views of the recognizable summit pyramid, flying it's trademark plume of snow as the jet winds whipped across its summit. Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam were also visible, standing tall above the valley floor further up.
Visiting a few more museums in the area, we passed the rest of the morning looking at collections of Sherpa mountaineering history, photographs, and visiting a traditional Sherpa home. The rest of the day was spent relaxing in Namche, exploring the towns narrow streets of hand laid stone, browsing the stalls of shops selling traditional jewelry and shawls along with knock off brand name down coats and climbing gear both new and old.
Tomorrow we will take a day hike above Namche to several villages nearby, stretching our legs and hopefully catching more views of the mountains up the valley.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
It's Casey and Billy checking in from down south! We've been hanging out in Quito for the last couple of days and the whole crew is already having a blast, and being situated at over 9,000 ft, we've already begun our acclimatization for our climbs. The first day around town was excellent. After a great breakfast at "Spicy" aka the hotel restaurant, we hit the town on a city tour to get a dose of history and colonial architecture. We had the chance to visit the Basilica, Presidential Palace, among other incredible buildings dating back from Spanish colonial times. This place is OLD, compared to American cities. Quito was founded in 1532! After the city tour, the group split. Half of the team headed to the Plaza de Toros and the other half went to a cool museum along the equator. The crew at the plaza had the fortune to witness a series of bullfights. Definitely barbaric but also a unique cultural experience unique to countries with Spanish influence. The other team enjoyed the interesting exhibits and experiments at the equatorial museum. The evening brought a lively night out for the team. After reuniting back at the hotel everyone went out for an amazing dinner. Local music and dancing was a great addition to the dining experience. Filet Mignon, Malbec? Who knew that you could acclimatize in such style!
Day 2 has thus far been a blast as well. The entire team headed up to the volcano Pichincha for a little exercise to help with the acclimation process. After a 40 minute gondola ride we were deposited high on the slopes of the volcano and were greeted by sweeping views of Cayambe and the city below. The high point for our hike brought us to approximately 14,300 ft.; nearly the summit of Mt. Rainier! The whole team is climbing and acclimating well thus far. Tonight, being Sunday, will hopefully turn out to be a bit quieter than the previous but we still plan to have another nice meal out on the town! Tomorrow we will to leave the city following an early wake-up and head out to the Illinizas for some more training.
We hope all is well back home and will check back in as the trip progresses.
Viva Quito!
We’ve officially made it to Vinson Basecamp, a significant milestone for our team as we prepare for the climb ahead. The flight into this remote corner of Antarctica is always an unforgettable experience, with vast expanses of ice and jagged peaks stretching to the horizon. We are not alone here at Basecamp, as teams from around the world make their final preparations as well. There’s a collective sense of purpose here, a shared understanding of the challenges and rewards that come with climbing the highest peak on this frozen continent.
Tomorrow, we plan to either move camp or cache supplies at the bend in the Branscomb Glacier. This marks the start of our climb, where strategy and teamwork will play a critical role. Caching supplies is a useful tool to ensure we can move efficiently while staying prepared for what lies ahead.
Standing at basecamp, the magnitude of our shared objective is clear. This is a team effort in every sense and we're ready. We know the climb will test us, but thats what we came here for. We’re ready to take the next chess move toward the summit.
Like we’ve said before, the weather hasn’t been in a good mood here in Alaska. Keeping with that trend, was the dramatic ending to our long and hard-fought expedition. As we resigned ourselves to sleeping yet another night on the glacier, we got the call that planes were in the air.
Hopeful, salad eyed, and smelly we packed our stuff and waited for our return trip home. Then the rain started. As we stared down the southeast fork of the Kahiltna, we could only hear the buzz of the planes and the patter of the drops on our coats. Muttering “ cmon, cmon” as if to plead with Mother Nature to abate and let the clouds lift. We willed the weather to let up just enough for the pilots to pull off a landing and high tail it out of there.
We slept in beds last night, took showers, and celebrated like it was going out of style. We can’t wait to see our friends and family soon. Thank you all for following along and cheers to another great, successful expedition on Denali. See you next year!
RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli, Seth Burns, Dan May and Team
hi dave and all…as i read your words i can just imagine the sights, the sounds, and the size of your boots..hahaha…thanks for bringing everest to me…i dream of seeing the full moon from there…hope you enjoy it…i’ll be looking at it tonite from my home in taos…best…nancy…
Posted by: nancy janosko on 4/16/2011 at 4:03 pm
Fantastic updates and pictures! Thinking of you and sending as much positive energy as i can from 1,200 ft above sea level….
Posted by: Martin on 4/13/2011 at 5:22 am
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