Most Popular Entries

Mt. McKinley: Team Jones- Freeze or Fry! Carry to 16,400’

June 8, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 8, 2013 Bonjour, from the fryer at 14 camp. The essence of climbing the great big mountains is that in the shade we freeze and in the sun we fry. Our carry to 16,400 ft went well and we are now ready for some more rest time. Today was a long hard effort getting out of the tents around 6:45 with not a breath of wind and clear skies; the not so fuzzy part was -10 F air temp. This had us all moving quickly to eat another bowl of oatmeal and down a cup of coffee before departing camp and wiggling vigorously to keep the fingers and toes warm. When we reached the half way mark in our second leg of the carry, the sun popped up over the West Rib route and the rays warmed us to our core. It took just a half hour for us to be climbing in our base layer, welcoming the fry portion of our day. The fixed lines on the West Buttress Head Wall were in great condition with fabulous cramponing - the teeth biting in the snow as if we were on steep green grass. I envy green grass as the only natural colors we have observed are white, blue and the light brown of the granite ridges rising thousands of feet above. We chopped in firm snow to create a cache hole just big enough to drop food, fuel and supplies. The team then descended down the buttress a short way before a hot and relatively easy and smooth decent off the fixed lines and a short stroll back to our 14 advanced base camp! In the tents yet again hiding from the magnificent orange ball in the sky! The future of the day and for tomorrow is to chill, eat, drink, and rest up for our summit push hopefully next week! We miss you all! The guides are currently craving an ice cold coke, some one please have one for us! Till tomorrow be happy be chill all is well! Ciao, RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James,
Cheers, what a challenge! Trust that you will be well hydrated and alert all the way to the summit with high spirit. Continue your adventure safely and enjoy what nature offers there. Following RMI blog. Praying for you and the team successful journey. Love, mom and dad

Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/9/2013 at 5:27 pm

Go Fallout Go!!
Sounds like the team is doing great…keep it up!

sincerely,
-Deputy Dawg

Posted by: Steve Kennedy on 6/9/2013 at 4:50 pm

View All Comments

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

July 13, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Oddly enough, we had great weather today, but we couldn't really put it to good use. We stayed in our 14,200' camp. Forecasts called for dire weather and a couple of our gang were under the weather, dealing with minor colds, so we decided to give everything and everyone a day in which to get better. In fact, none of the other teams on the mountain moved either. We know of four, one other guided group at 14 Camp and three teams up at 17,200'. The National Park Service team packed up their camp and flew out of 14 today by helicopter, their season finished. To take advantage of the fine sunshine and to stretch legs, most of our team roped up and took a short walk to the "edge of the world" on the rim of Genet Basin. It offers magnificent views nearly straight down to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and also a good look at the lower portions of the West Rib climbing route. Obviously, if we have the opportunity tomorrow, we want to get back to work on the West Buttress route. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

have been following your progress on the blog and praying for a summit and safe return for you and all the team members, can’t wait to hear all the stories when you return, take lots of pics and hope you will give presentation at the medical society mtg when you return

God Bless,

Kenny Tidwell

Posted by: Kenny Tidwell on 7/14/2011 at 8:11 pm

How’s the bacon supply holding out?

Posted by: Joe on 7/14/2011 at 4:18 pm

View All Comments

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren and Team at 14,000’

June 16, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Hello, this is Jake Beren with the RMI Mt. McKinley Expedition calling from 14,000’ camp. We arrived here yesterday and are happy in our brand new home and happy place. Before moving camp we made a carry the day before with our gear. The team is looking great, very strong as we climbed yesterday. We arrived late afternoon and set up shop. Today we are going to do a little bit of training and potentially make a back carry to pick up our cache. So all's well here, it’s a beautiful sunny day here in the Genae Basin. We are looking up at the fixed lines. The RMI Team lead by Tyler Jones made their move to 17,000’ camp this morning and are just doing great and heading up the West Buttress as we speak. So, that's all from 14,000’ on Mt. McKinley. It's great to be here with a good crew. We'll be checking in the future. This is Jake, Mike, Gilbert and team standing by at 14,000’.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Enjoy my bredren and sistren. positive vibes to you.

Posted by: jason thompson on 6/17/2011 at 7:08 pm

Hey Jake and your team!! It is so exciting to watch the progress of your expedition. Please tell Clay Gilliland that all of his friends in Hot Springs are keeping all of you in our prayers for a successful and safe trip.
Tom Baird

Posted by: Tom Baird on 6/17/2011 at 5:03 pm

View All Comments

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Enjoy Perfect Day, Reach Summit

June 21, 2023

Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike Haugen, Nicole De Petris, Sam Hoffman, Charlie Harrison, Cal Seeley

Categories:

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Brent Okita & Mike Haugen reported a perfect day of climbing on Mt. Rainier today. The Four Day Climb June 18 - 21 reached the summit around 7 am and enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent. The teams started their descent from the crater rim just after 8 am and will return to Camp Muir. After a short break the teams will continue the final 4.5 miles to Paradise and be transferred back to Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Mt. Rainier: Bickford, Hoch, & Team Turn At the Top of the Cleaver

July 27, 2019

Posted by: Taylor Bickford, Joe Hoch

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,300'

The Four Day Climb Teams led by Taylor Bickford and Joe Hoch radioed down this morning to let us know that they turned at 12,300' due to high winds and deteriorating conditions on the upper mountain. The team was safely back in Camp Muir by 7:45 AM PT. After drying out a little and resting, the team will descend from Camp Muir and be back in town this afternoon.

Getting Ready to Ascend the Khumbu Icefall

April 16, 2010

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575 ft.

Greetings everyone, The team has adjusted to our new home and daily routines. Everyone seems to be feeling well and we are all excited about heading higher. There has been plenty of training on the lower glacier and several acclimatization hikes that leave us feeling we are ready for the next step. Our new goal will be to ascend the famous Khumbu Icefall. We have already had a few small forays into the lower glacier and everyone did great. The Icefall starts just a few feet from camp and ascends a little over 2,000 ft to Camp One. Our goal will be to ascend the icefall as quickly, safely, and comfortably as we can. It won't be a race, but more like a slow, steady climb to camp. We are hoping it takes no longer than 6 to 7 hours for our first trip. If all goes well we will spend a few days at Camp One and might even venture up the Western Cwm to Camp Two. George Mallory himself named the Western Cwm (Cwm being a Welsh word meaning valley). The weather has been interesting these last few days and it's beginning to snow as I type. Hopefully a few days of rest, some good weather and we'll be on our way. Hope everyone is doing great back home and we miss you all (well, most of you anyway!).

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Land in Talkeetna

July 9, 2021

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Matt McEttrick

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Friday, July 9, 2021 - 12:04 am

It did not seem like it was going to happen today. We woke up groggily to find ourselves in the middle of a small tent village. The remaining teams on the mountain -six guided groups- were now all collected at Kahiltna Base Camp, waiting to fly out. None of us had made the top -the season end was just a nonstop progression of storms. Including the one that cloaked us in cloud and light snow for much of the day. We had already eaten a mountain dinner and were getting ready for another night in tents when airplanes started coming in through holes in the clouds. We packed sleeping bags, tents, pots, and pans… all in an instant and loaded into K2 Aviation’s beautiful Otters. And at 9:30PM we lifted off the glacier and caught the red eye into Talkeetna. Eventually we were out of the snow and ice and rock and flying effortlessly over impossibly green landscapes.

We have got a day left of drying and sorting gear and traveling, but tonight we shower and sleep in beds!

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great going and thanks for the daily updates -wow, what a journey. There’s always 2022! Way to go Matt!

Posted by: Margie McEttrick-Maloney on 7/11/2021 at 5:49 pm

Thanks & best to Dave , team leaders for everything & to ur whole team —-Sanjeev felt safe & had loads of fun w/ y’all !!! Even tho he cant wait to share lots of wonderful stories , I know he will miss y’all lots !!!
A thankyou to the lord for bringing y’all down safely , so y’all can return to beds, etc :) !!!
& Cheers to many more climbs & to reaching summits in the future years !!! Godbless & Keep smiling !!!

Sincerely,
Rohan, Courtney, Nora , Niki & Anjalika

Posted by: Anjalika Nagrath on 7/9/2021 at 10:46 pm

View All Comments

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Summits on a Perfect Day

August 10, 2017

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Elevation: 18,510'

Hi, this is Pete Van Deventer with the Elbrus-Northside crew calling in. We are back at Camp 1 after a really successful summit day. Couldn't have asked for anything more perfect. We woke up this morning to warm temps, clear skies, and not a breath of wind. We made our way up relatively quiet until we merged with the southside route at the Saddle, and then we could see the line of climbers coming from that route, but we made our own switchbacks and stayed out of the traffic and cruised up to the summit in pretty good style. One hundred percent of our folks stood on top today. A really good day all the way around. A special shout out to Josh, who ended up being pretty motivated and roped up with our local guide, Sasha, and they made another trip from there over to the east side in only about an hour, so they tagged both summits. We all descended to Lenz Rocks and stopped there for about an hour and packed up camp, and then made our way back down to Moraine Camp, Camp 1. We are tucked in here, inside our tents and we're out to enjoy a pizza dinner from Nina, the cook here. She makes amazing stuff. The plan is tomorrow to head down to Base Camp and we'll take our time getting down there and spend the evening. Then the cars will come for us the day after that to take us to Kislovodsk. Everybody will be back in touch with loved ones soon and everyone sends their best. It's been a really good day here on the northside of Elbrus. Everybody's super excited. Talk later. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls after a successful Elbrus summit via the Northside.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Sonam! You put your heart to it and you did it! Proud of you!
Ephrem

Posted by: Ephrem on 8/11/2017 at 9:22 pm

Congrats Lisa! Can’t wait to hear all about your trip and see photos. Love, the Zaia crew

Posted by: Kelly on 8/11/2017 at 7:03 am

View All Comments

Vinson Massif: No Fly Zone

December 9, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 7,000'

The storm finally hit. Crazy clouds were forming over the upper mountain as we went to bed last night. The morning at Vinson Base was devoid of sunshine and chock full of newly falling snow. It is actually a rare thing to get five inches of powder snow in this place, like rain in the desert, but that is what we got. Flying -either to get the successful summiteers out or to bring in our next team of climbers from Union Glacier- was not happening. It was a hunker down day. The word was that the teams up the mountain were doing the same. Rest and relaxation wasn't exactly an unwelcome plan for the day for my team. Most had sore feet and tired knees after the last few big days of up and down walking. Each climber is ready to be moving on when conditions permit, of course. Juan wanted to be sure that Eva Maria knew he was wishing her a very happy 21st birthday from Antarctica. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Five inches of powder snow? Is it time for skiing? Be safe and hunker down! Thinking of you.

Posted by: Mom/Grandma on 12/10/2013 at 8:16 am

Larry: Your climbing report card is full of A’s - Antarctica and Alaska and Aconcagua…Congratulation…Post pics please…Waltero

Posted by: waltero glover on 12/10/2013 at 7:03 am

View All Comments

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Reaches the SUMMIT!

September 12, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Our Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Jake Beren reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported great route conditions, warm temperatures and clear skies. The team is now en route to Camp Muir and will spend the spend the rest of their time at Camp Muir training before returning to RMI Basecamp tomorrow. Congratulations to today's team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Job well done!!!! Not too many people can say they did this. Congratulations…. from the other Eileen & Ty

Posted by: Eieen on 9/16/2013 at 6:29 am

YEAH! Great News Thrilling… what an accomplishment.

Love Mom, Ty ( Bluefin Tuna Fishing on Cape Cod) and Kate!!!

Posted by: meg on 9/12/2013 at 6:12 pm

View All Comments

Previous Page Next Page

Check Availability

Most Popular Entries

Mt. McKinley: Team Jones- Freeze or Fry! Carry to 16,400’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren and Team at 14,000’

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Enjoy Perfect Day, Reach Summit

Mt. Rainier: Bickford, Hoch, & Team Turn At the Top of the Cleaver

Getting Ready to Ascend the Khumbu Icefall

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Land in Talkeetna

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Summits on a Perfect Day

On The Map

Vinson Massif: No Fly Zone

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Reaches the SUMMIT!

Contact Us

Privacy Policy

Translate

Log In

Register With Us

Check Availability

Most Popular Entries

On The Map

On The Map

On The Map

New Post Alerts:Expedition Dispatches

New Post Alerts:
Expedition Dispatches