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Monday, May 22, 2023 - 7:55 pm PT

The weather was gorgeous today. We retrieved our cache from Windy Corner, so we're all set here at 14,000'. The rest of the afternoon was spent resting and socializing in the sun. Meanwhile, the guides excavated a palacial cook/dining tent for the team. Our plan is to review fixed rope travel and rest tomorrow, taking advantage of another day/night to acclimate to the altitude, and then establish a cache up high on Wednesday. A little weather might move in Thurday, but we're optimistic for a good window for a summit push this weekend.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

The team did strong work today, shouldering a load out of base camp that would have made an ox shudder. Each climber probably had north of 100lbs of gear between pack and sled. We schussed down Heart Break Hill relatively smoothly, given the load and started the long, gradual accent of the Kahiltna. The weather was beyond perfect. Blue skies, warm, probably too warm for a bit, but then a gentle kiss of breeze cooled us down. 

6 hours of that steady diesel truck burn brought us to our first real camp of the climb at the Base of Ski Hill. We spent the next couple hours establishing a routine that will become quite familiar: building tent platforms, erecting tents, digging kitchens, bathrooms, melting water, making dinner, and finding time for self-care.

Tomorrow, we will look to move a load uphill and cache before returning to this same camp. We will all be happy for lighter loads. 
Wish us bon voyage.

It took six attempts but finally the weather cooperated for a successful acclimatization hike to the top of La Malinche, 14,501’. A new high point for some of our Team. The ‘day hike’ is the equivalent of a Rainier summit day from Camp Muir in elevation gain. The Team did well despite having just arrived sea level more or less. This morning we are in route to Ixta, a quick stop for breakfast and coffee then a travel day to the Altzomani Hut. There, we will pack for our hike to high camp and enjoy a nice dinner and spectacular sunset. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Mike King

Today the team awoke to a gorgeous sunrise in the mountains. Typically the weather can be sunny in the morning and then the clouds engulf the surrounding mountains including Elbrus. However, today the mountain has been out in all its glory. After an early breakfast we threw the rucksacks over our shoulders, strapped crampons to our boots and we went for a four-hour acclimatization hike. We made it to 15,000 feet and enjoyed the views as they only got prettier the higher we went. We are back at camp, after a nice lunch (Albina makes the tastiest soups) we are resting in our hut. As a matter of fact, I hear the movie Dumb & Dumber playing on someone's iPad. Gotta go... RMI Guide JJ Justman

On The Map

A big aloha from 11 Camp! We woke to our first clear morning of the trip, with brightly colored lenticular clouds stacked over Mount Forraker. It was cold and clear in our neck of the woods and we traveled well on our way to our cache at 10,000 feet. With slightly lighter loads we dispatched the final hill into camp and moved right in to camp. Now we rest during the heat of the day and recover after a great, but tough day. Tomorrow, if the weather permits we will retrieve our cache and ready ourselves for life higher up. Take care everyone, RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Thomas Greene and Team

On The Map

Today the team succeeded in getting our cache all the way up to 17,200'. What an achievement! Another early start had us beating the madding crowds up the fixed ropes and allowing us to enjoy our climb on the Buttress with a peaceful solitude. At Washburn's Thumb everyone was climbing well, but we decided to send one team on up to high camp while the rest of us conserved our strength and descended back to camp from 16,600'. After all, we had reached the highest point many of us had ever climbed to and were doing well. Our team of go-getters who went on higher even carried some of our personal caches with them so that all our cache would be together at our next and final camp. I'm still so impressed by how this team pulls together and helps each other out in times like these. It should be noted that seldom do any teams make the effort or have the strength to carry all the way up to 17,200' camp. What we experience while climbing the terrain between the fixed ropes and 17,200' is nothing short of awesome. And for most of us this is the most exciting climbing we have ever done. Steep, exposed and beautiful. What more could we want. Back at camp now everyone is resting well and looking forward to a real rest day. We'll sleep in and dine on smoked salmon, bagels and cream cheese. And maybe after that we'll get into something else. It will be a well deserved day of rest! Until next time... RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Lindsay

On The Map

Jambo to all. Well we did it, all the “Tucklings” to the top. We tried to give a call from the summit but I’ll tell you, it was cold and breezy, and a half battery wasn’t enough, the charge wasn’t there. But I’m back down here as well as the rest of the team at our high camp, Barafu at 15,000’. We are going to toute suite out of here. I’m going to have to start poking a few of them with my ski pole, to keep them moving. But we’ll get another 5,000’ to descend to the Mweka Camp. Pretty easy to crawl into the bag and here and take a nap. But, the old machine may seize up so I'm going keep pushing them along. Everybody did just fantastic. Of course there were a few issues here and there and people were challenged. Half of them said it was probably the hardest thing they’ve ever done in their life physically. And the other half, you know they were lying. So, all is well. I'll try and get this iPAQ thing working again and do a dispatch once we get down to Mweka Camp. I appreciate you guys all checking in. Cheers from Kilimanjaro, Uhuru Peak!

It was a beautiful night at Camp 1 last night, without a light for miles the stars were simply stunning, covering the dark sky so thoroughly the whole expanse seemed to glow. Beneath it all, we slept soundly - tired from the day of climbing. When we awoke we had a leisurely breakfast, enjoying the morning sun and watching the clouds form, dissolve, and reform on the summit far above. Despite the pleasant weather at Camp 1, the weather up high looked unsettled again with clouds racing over the summit. We commented again on how fortunate we were to sneak in a successful summit. Packing up all of our gear, we shouldered hefty packs and began our descent to Base Camp. It took a few minutes to get the legs loosened up but once we navigated back down through the scree and boulder fields we were again moving well. Taking a slightly more easterly trail on the descent from that which we came up, we visited a series of rock formations known as the Mushroom Rocks - towers of eroded rocks sporting broad flat tops, very reminiscent of landscapes found in the American West. Continuing on, we rejoined our original trail and descended back into a carpet of green and yellow as the alpine grasses and small shrubs are turning colors with the approach of fall. At last, with tired feet we arrived at Base Camp, happy to drop the packs. Several of the Russian soldiers, temporarily stationed here since the helicopter crash up on the mountain, came over to congratulate us and convinced a few of the more courageous team members to take a dunk with them in the springs next to camp, which they informed us bubbles up at a scalding 2 degrees Celsius (~36F). We are planning to return to Kislovodsk tomorrow, a day earlier than anticipated, to seek out some hot showers, clean clothes, and fresh food. Although the climb of Elbrus is behind us, a long journey still awaits us as we make our way back out of the Caucasus and to St. Petersburg on the shores of the Gulf of Finland. We are eager to set off on the next leg of our adventure.

Sunday, June 25, 2023 - 10:07 pm PT

Storm day at 14k.  Snow and cloud all over camp and thankfully just an odd gust of wind every now and then. But all day long we could hear the wind ripping across the ridges up high, sounding like Niagara Falls. We ate long slow meals, took long naps, moved some snow blocks around and read some books.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Although the objective changed, nice weather and flexibility allowed RMI Guide Avery Parrinello and his team to reach the summit of Eldorado Peak, Sahale Peak and Sharkfin Tower.

After five days of climbing in the North Cascades the group will conclude their adventure today.  Until next time!