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Well hello all.
Last week temperatures were frigid. I am happy to say today was downright balmy. We'll take it.
We spent our entire day today going over some critical information. Laying the ground work for
crevasse rescue. A lot of information was downloaded and everyone seemed to grasp the concepts. Knots, anchors, rappelling into a crevasse, self extrication from a crevasse were some of our topics on this beautiful day.
Kahiltna Base Camp is getting busier by the day. More and more climbers are showing up to head up Denali, other friends are finding success on various routes on the Mini Moon Flower and the North Buttress of Mt Hunter with this current stretch of superb weather.
Word on the street is temperatures are about to get really hot the next few days. We will let you know how that plays out.
Everyone is doing great and says hello.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
On The Map
Hello from the Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge,
Well, the elusive tree climbing lions were no where to be seen today, but the game viewing at Lake Manyara proved to be spectacular. From the moment we entered the gate, there were lots of animals. The first sighting of the day was a troop of baboons, followed by velvet monkeys, blue monkeys, giraffes, cape buffalo, elephants, hippos, and water bucks. Not bad for the first hour of our safari.
We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the park, and took enough pictures that a few batteries were already drained half way though the afternoon.
Lake Manyara is about an hour's drive to Ngorongoro crater and we timed it perfectly to be at the first viewpoint of the crater right before sunset. When you first approach the crater, the view is just spectacular. Dropping almost a 1000 feet below you is the largest unbroken and unflooded caldera in the world. It is almost 13 miles across and is home to 25,000 animals. Not surprising that many call this the eighth wonder of the world!
After a short drive along the crater rim from the viewpoint, we arrived at our lodge for the next two nights. The Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge sits right on the crater rim and each room has a full on view looking out over the entire crater.
We will get an early start in the morning to drive down into the crater. Tomorrow is going to be a big day and the group can't wait to get down there.
- The Kili Team
We hiked about five hours to our high camp today while brushing up on some mountaineering skills such as ice axe arrest, cramponing and roped travel. After dinner and our summit chat, it'll be off to bed in anticipation of our summit bid in the morning! The team is doing well, feeling strong and excited for the morning.
Wish us luck!
Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 9:59 pm PT
We got up and packed up camp this morning with blue skies and little to no wind. Having just put in a cache at 13,500’ the terrain would not be new. A warmer day than yesterday had us stuck at times behind slower moving parties. We got to 14,200’ camp located in Genet Basin having done a lot of hard work but the Team built camp and we are getting ready for a late dinner. We got a chance to see 2 of 3 RMI teams as they descended from high camp this evening. Tomorrow we will sleep in, pick up our cache and continue to improve camp. No need to go up high until we get a few nights here and some well earned rest. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
RMI Guide Billy Nugent led the Four Day Summit Climb to the top of
Disappointment Cleaver this morning before encountering strong winds, low visibility, and precipitation. The teams have safely returned to Camp Muir and are getting ready to descend back to Paradise. We are excited to welcome the teams back in Ashford early this afternoon.
The
Four Day Summit Climbs August 23 - 26 led by
RMI Guides Jake Beren & Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Jake reported light - moderate winds with 50 meters of visibility and some-what cold conditions. The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 8 am PT. The teams will descend to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing down to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!
The Four Day Summit Climb and the Five Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The guides reported moderate winds and cloudy conditions. The teams were departing the summit around 7:30 a.m. and are returning to Camp Muir to refuel before continuing downhill to Paradise. We’ll see them back in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
Hello All,
This is
Mark Tucker from
Everest Basecamp! The boys are back in town. The team just returned from their rotation up high and their timing was perfect as usual. No sooner did they arrive here at Basecamp than it began snowing and blowing. The weather is not conducive to it being a shower day but tomorrow may provide suitable conditions. In other positive news the rope fixing team made it to the
South Col so the flood gates, and the route to the upper mountain, are open. A bit of the Jet stream is in the neighborhood for the next few days but the push for rope fixing to the summit is in the works. The
RMI climbing team is enjoying the thick air, seats with backs, and great food. Let the rest phase begin.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Today was a good day. The sun peeked thru the clouds timidly at best, with snow spitting occasionally and clouds being more the norm. But that didn't deter us from enjoying another easy day with a thirty minute walk back to the cache we left at 9,500' leading to a pleasant romp back to camp in the early afternoon.
With the days work behind us we had only to review some climbing basics with our ice axes and crampons to get ready for tomorrow. It is beginning with the terrain above that the real climbing starts. And we're ready for it. Lighter packs and steeper slopes will be a welcome respite from the slogging done thus far.
Our last fresh food meal of burritos revealed that everyone was feeling strong here at 11,200' as the team left nothing uneaten.
We'd love just a bit more settled weather for our climb up
Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill and Windy Corner on our way to our cache site at 13,600', but I suppose if we just have calm weather we'll be happy. At eight hours round trip this will be our longest day, and our first day of higher altitude, but I know the team is ready for it.
We'll leave you with a little poem Lindsay composed:
"With sleds in our pack
We take the downhill track.
Zipping to 9500' for the cache
We grab the food stash.
Back to 11 we go
With light weight sleds in tow.
Tomorrow we will carry up the hill
And hope to continue our good weather fill"
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides
Brent Okita,
Leon Davis and
Lindsay Mann
On The Map
The winds picked up again after dinner yesterday and continued to blow all night, not letting up until the early hours of the morning today. When we emerged from the tents they had died to a whisper around camp but they continued to rage higher up on the mountain. We could see gusts of wind carrying giant waves of spindrifted snow through the rocks at Camp 2 from down below as we ate breakfast. With the weather still poor up high we opted not to push up to Camp 2 today to cache gear, choosing instead to climb part of the way, focusing on reviewing climbing skills and acclimatizing a bit.
Thankfully the winds seemed to stay above 14,000' today, making for great climbing conditions below. We left camp and set out onto the glacier, gradually ascending the lower slopes to a bench at ~12,600'. After so many days of travel and approach on the lower mountain, it felt great to at last be using our climbing gear on Elbrus. Above the bench the pitch steepens a bit and a sizable system of crevasses cuts across the slope, forcing us to carefully pick our way amongst them to gain the smoother slopes above. At ~13,500' we reached a false plateau where the winds from above began to hit us. With our training and acclimatization accomplished for the day, we headed back down our route to camp.
Returning to camp by midafternoon, we spent a leisurely couple of hours lounging amid the rocks soaking in the sun. After 36 hours of intense winds and precipitation it felt nice to sit outside in short sleeves.
We have just wrapped up dinner and are finishing sorting our gear for tomorrow. If our improving weather pattern holds we will move to Camp 2 tomorrow and be in position for a summit bid.
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Hi Eric-
See you in a couple of weeks!
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 5/17/2012 at 10:38 pm
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