Ama Dablam loomed right above us when we stepped out of the teahouse this morning, yesterday's afternoon clouds dissipating to reveal the mountains surrounding Pangboche. With the sun cresting over the ridges above and warming us up, we hit the trail bound for Namche Bazaar. Heading downhill we made great time down the trail, passing the dozens of rows of mani stones and chortens lining the trail below Pangboche. We paused outside of the monastery in Tengboche, sitting at the bakery for a bit, before continuing on down to Dudh Kosi raging below at the base of the ridge.
The trail was busy with travelers today as loads of gear for upcoming Everest Expeditions made their way up the valley and at times we felt a bit like fish swimming upstream as trains of yaks pushed their way up the trail. The change in scenery from the mountains above is marked: birds, blooming flowers, tall swaying trees surrounded us as we hiked down the trail, a far cry from the glaciers and rocks of just a few days ago.
By mid-afternoon we rounded the last turn on the trail and dropped back into Namche. With the height of trekking season quickly approaching Namche is buzzing with activity and it feels like we've stepped back into a bustling metropolis: small shops open up onto every available street space, people walking back and forth, dogs and yaks alike wandering amid it all. We didn't even break stride going through town, walking directly into our teahouse here, dropping our bags, and headed in for an eagerly anticipated hot shower. The little luxuries we enjoy routinely at home take on a whole new meaning after many days in the mountains.
We are very happy top be here and enjoying the scene in Namche. We covered a lot of ground in the past few days as we retrace our steps down the trail that took us the better part of two weeks to go up and the team is doing well, strongly climbing the many ups and downs of the trail. Tomorrow morning we continue heading down the valley, bound for Lukla where the trail ends and we catch our flight back to Kathmandu.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Know you are glad to be back in Namche and have a bathroom that is ATTACHED to your room- and free tp! Hope you all are well and keep up the caution- only a few more days until “normal” food. We all miss you and can’t wait to hear about the climb. Love the photos.
RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Dominic Cifelli led their Four Day teams May 15 - 18, on an early alpine start from Camp Muir this morning. Unfortunately, high winds forced the teams to turn around at 10,600 feet. Everyone returned safely to Camp Muir. They plan to begin their descent at 9:30 a.m. PT and are expected to arrive back at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford by early afternoon.
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at around 8am this morning. RMI Guide Avery Parrinello repoted a beautiful day of climb, and the route through the Kautz Ice Chute was in great shape. The Team has started their descent and will spend another day training and practicing alpine expedition skills to prepare for future climbs like Denali or Aconcagua.
Woot!!! Amazing everyone!!! Just incredible! Good job Josh! And Sam, I’m proud of how far you got and your thoughtfulness on the decision to come back early. Well done too all!!!!
Posted by: Heather hobbs on 6/22/2021 at 5:39 pm
So happy and excited for you Josh & Sam!!!! Congratulations to you guys and your team!!
Summit!
Today we had a wonderful albeit long day climbing to the summit of Kilimanjaro. The team woke at 11pm as we planned to thankfully clear skies after a cloudy evening that had us wondering the lay ahead.
We had a quick breakfast of porridge, tea and coffee before hitting the trail at 12am.
We climbed in hour increments with 10-15 breaks in between, which we've been doing every day thus far. The weather was really nice, although it was a little cold which kept us bundled up for most of the day. It was one of the busiest days I’ve seen on Kili with more than 200 climbers, but the team timed everything just right and took great care of themselves.
The climb took about 7hrs to reach the top, and thankfully the sun had risen shortly before to help warm us and boost morale after climbing through the night. Once there, we hugged each other, enjoyed the view and took plenty of pictures of the sign that adorns the “Roof of Africa”.
It was a true test of endurance for most of the crew, and I'm really proud of everyone. We safely descended back to high camp, had a quick lunch, repacked and continued further down the mountain to our final camp on the mountain, where we are about to have dinner and then head to bed for some well deserved sleep.
Everyone is really looking forward to hot showers tomorrow to say the least.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili summit crew
Today the team succeeded in getting our cache all the way up to 17,200'. What an achievement! Another early start had us beating the madding crowds up the fixed ropes and allowing us to enjoy our climb on the Buttress with a peaceful solitude.
At Washburn's Thumb everyone was climbing well, but we decided to send one team on up to high camp while the rest of us conserved our strength and descended back to camp from 16,600'. After all, we had reached the highest point many of us had ever climbed to and were doing well. Our team of go-getters who went on higher even carried some of our personal caches with them so that all our cache would be together at our next and final camp. I'm still so impressed by how this team pulls together and helps each other out in times like these. It should be noted that seldom do any teams make the effort or have the strength to carry all the way up to 17,200' camp.
What we experience while climbing the terrain between the fixed ropes and 17,200' is nothing short of awesome. And for most of us this is the most exciting climbing we have ever done. Steep, exposed and beautiful. What more could we want.
Back at camp now everyone is resting well and looking forward to a real rest day. We'll sleep in and dine on smoked salmon, bagels and cream cheese. And maybe after that we'll get into something else. It will be a well deserved day of rest!
Until next time...
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Lindsay
Two nights ago, when I sent my last dispatch, we were all a bit deflated, having been told we'd most likely be sitting here at Union in bad weather for 4 more days. To our surprise, though, yesterday morning brought brilliant blue skies and the possibility of an Ilyushin flight in the evening.
As the day went on, it was clear the Ilyushin would be coming to take one load of passengers out to Punta Arenas. Included in that first flight would be Ed, Cindy, David, and Ben. The rest of us - Peter, Seth, Caroline, Kent, and I - would be on the next flight.
With ample sun and stunning peaks waiting outside camp, there was little option but to go climbing...for those of us not packing. Mount Rossman, a towering massif of snowy ridges and rocky buttresses, had lured many already with it's siren song. Unclimbed until last year, nearly every couloir and ridge on the multi-summit peak had seen a first ascent in the past 10 days. Caroline went off with Vic Saunders and some others for one of the few remaining unclimbed lines on the right side of the peak. Soon after, Seth blasted uphill, skis on his back, to make turns off the summit. Kent and I, after finishing up some production work, decided on another unclimbed line, a nice looking couloir climbing some 1500 feet up the peak.
For me, the joy of doing a first ascent, of setting the first tracks on a given route or peak, is not to be able to brag about it, but rather just the sheer adventure
of it, for you have no idea what lies ahead. Sure, Kent and I looked at the route from camp, saw that it looked continuous and snowy the whole way, and seemed to be steep enough to be fun, but not too steep. But, you never know. Would the snow be good? How about the rock quality where it seemed to pinch closed 1/2 way up? Ice screws? Pickets? Would there be the bullet-proof, blue ice we'd seen elsewhere, or just easy-going neve? While those questions could be intimidating, swirling in the back of the mind, they are, to me, the part that gets me going. It's the lack of knowledge, the feeling of some vestige of "true" adventure, which makes such an outing enticing.
In the end, Kent and I found a beautiful, aesthetic line following generally good snow up a 40-55 degree couloir for 1500 feet. The rope and gear we brought stayed in my pack, neither of us feeling the need for it with such good conditions. It was just fun climbing, some shooting by both of us, and an immensely enjoyable few hours on a new route on Mount Rossman. We called it "Ilyushin Fields" after the plane which, as we descended, dropped through a curtain of ice fog onto a blue ice runway, loaded 62 passengers, and swept them off to Punta.
Soon, we hope, we, too, will be in the air from Antarctica over the Drake Passage. But, if not, while some 20 first ascents have been ticked off around here in the past 2 weeks, there are still a lot of firsts left to do around Union Glacier. We won't be bored.
-Jake Norton
After a late night and long day yesterday, we woke up around the time the sun hit our tents. After a quick breakfast of frosted mini wheats, we put together the group loads to cache and begin our climb up ski hill. After 4.5 long hours we pulled into our cache site, dug a hole, and tossed our group food, and personal caches in. After attaching the sleds to our packs, we began the descent back to camp. A bit earlier this evening than last, we made some reindeer sausage jambalaya and prepped for our big move to 11 camp tomorrow.
The weather looks good, hopefully we'll touch base from 11k tomorrow!
RMI Guides Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, and Lauren Macklin
We awoke this morning to beautiful weather, the sky was pink, lighting up La Malinche and the air was fresh like late summer in the high desert. Today is the beginning of our Izta climb. We hiked to our basecamp, through the pines on the dusty trail. We had clear views of Izta ahead of us and Popo smoking behind us, the mountains making us feel small in the midst of their height and beauty. We prepared for our hike to high camp tomorrow, meticulously sorting through our gear, and just as importantly, snacks. Our team is ready to move up the mountain and excited for our bigger climbs ahead.
Friday, June 7, 2013
Yes, we're back in Talkeetna after an incredible walk back to Base camp in the early morning hours. I think most of us are relaxing now after a much needed shower. In a short while we'll be back together for a great dinner not prepared by the guides and perhaps accompanied by an adult beverage ...and certainly including dessert. We've had a great run!
I for one will miss the company of a stellar group of individuals I can now call friends.
Perhaps you'll excuse their absence from your lives again sometime as we pursue our passion for the mountains. Of course, you'll always be close to them through these dispatches.
This will be our last, and I appreciate all your support and interest. The people you've been following are incredible individuals. We are fortunate to call them friends.
Bye for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Mark Tucker here at high camp of Island Peak. Hands are freezing but the rest of me is pretty good. We are situated a couple hundred feet below 18,000 feet. We got a bit to go but we're in good shape. Have the tents up. Actually have a small kitchen tent where our Nepali staff is making us some fresh momos. He has a rolling pin out, had the flour going, cooking up the vegetables. We're roughing it but its still reasonably comfortable. Having aghast. We've got peaks above, ice, rock every where. Ocean below, giant peaks peaking out of the clouds, and yes, a bit chilly. I'm sure we're going to be in for it tonight when it comes to the cold but lots of layers and keep moving should do the trick. So we're planning to start looking at the weather at 1 am, hopefully moving by 2ish and route sounds like it's in pretty good shape. So if things go right, we're going to get on top of this thing and make a call to y'all. We're going to error on the side of smart and conservative, not push too hard, but give it a gosh darn good effort.. So we're looking forward to it, all fired up and can't wait to report in again.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from Island Peak High Camp.
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Know you are glad to be back in Namche and have a bathroom that is ATTACHED to your room- and free tp! Hope you all are well and keep up the caution- only a few more days until “normal” food. We all miss you and can’t wait to hear about the climb. Love the photos.
Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 4/2/2012 at 1:32 pm
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