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Hello, this is Jake Beren with the RMI Mt. McKinley Expedition calling from 14,000’ camp. We arrived here yesterday and are happy in our brand new home and happy place. Before moving camp we made a carry the day before with our gear.
The team is looking great, very strong as we climbed yesterday. We arrived late afternoon and set up shop.
Today we are going to do a little bit of training and potentially make a back carry to pick up our cache. So all's well here, it’s a beautiful sunny day here in the Genae Basin. We are looking up at the fixed lines.
The RMI Team lead by Tyler Jones made their move to 17,000’ camp this morning and are just doing great and heading up the West Buttress as we speak.
So, that's all from 14,000’ on Mt. McKinley. It's great to be here with a good crew. We'll be checking in the future.
This is Jake, Mike, Gilbert and team standing by at 14,000’.
Yesterday we moved from 11,000 ft camp to our current home at about 14,200 ft. We spent the entire day in a cloud with a little snow but it was still quite warm.
Today we are relaxing and enjoying another sunny day on the flanks of Denali. We picked up our cache this morning and had the rest of the day to rest and recuperate. Everyone is having a great time and we excited to keep moving higher.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
Uncle James is rocking Denali and we are so proud of you! Love, your Texas Nephews
Posted by: The Knox Family on 6/4/2011 at 9:01 am
Missing James! Let us know how you’re doing and know that you’re loved!
Posted by: Julie on 6/3/2011 at 6:00 pm
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Jambo!
We are all back at the Dik Dik Hotel where it all started not so long ago. Since then, we have climbed a Big Mountain and seen wildlife galore. We had some tough moments and most recently some very easy ones. We have made some new friends and had a chance to visit with past ones.
All and all, we had a great time.
It was nice to have you following our dispatches. Thank you.
I look forward to starting my next dispatch in March with Namaste, when I return to Nepal for yet another expedition on the Big Everest.
All the best,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
We awoke to clear skies and calm winds around camp this morning. The thick cloud cap that had become a fixture over the summit the past few days dissapated over night and we watched the final traces of it blow away as we ate breakfast. We could see that moderate winds still persisted high on the mountain but otherwise conditions looked ideal for our move to Camp 2.
We packed up camp and set off back up the glacier, having no difficulties navigating the crevasses despite the heavy packs. The winds continued to rise a bit as we climbed higher, but never were they unmanageable. By midafternoon we reached the clustering of rocks at ~15,000' below Elbrus' east summit known as Lenz Rocks. There we established Camp 2, our high camp. It was difficult work to clear the tent sites and move rocks around and we were breathing hard at this altitude. Moderate yet considerate winds continued to blow making setting up each tent a full team activity. But soon we had camp established and were able to crawl into the tents and escape the winds. The team climbed very strongly today, putting in an impressive effort to reach and establish high camp in these squirrely conditions. Spirits remain high and we are all excited to be in position to make a go for the top.
We are hoping to make a summit bid tomorrow if the winds drop off as they are forecasted to do but right now they are still quite considerable so we will have to wait to see what the morning brings. Keep your fingers crossed that they die down!
Last night at high camp, it just didn't seem like we would get a chance to make the top of Aconcagua... it was snowing and socked in when I sent yesterday's dispatch. But then, just before darkness came on, the snow stopped and the clouds dropped. During the night there were occasional waves of intense wind that could be heard coming from miles away, but these were short bursts and sure enough, at 4 AM the stars were out and the wind was gone. Our stoves were cooking by 4:15 and we were walking out of camp by headlamp at around 5:15 AM, bound for the summit.
We had crampons on all the way and were lucky to be on snow for about 95% of our journey. Peter mentioned that he'd done the same climb without once touching snow, just loose rock, so we were happy with the conditions. It wasn't terribly cold and once we found sunshine things were quite pleasant. We lost that sunshine when we began the long, long traverse to the base of the Canaleta. There were perhaps a hundred other climbers going for the top today, but we ended up nearly in the lead by half-way up the steep and direct Canaleta. This broad gulley is about 800 vertical feet... easy at sea level, I'm sure, but beginning at 22,000 ft makes it somewhat challenging. We were challenged, but all did well, the extra nights at high camp had worked in our favor for acclimatization.
We popped out on the summit at noon and enjoyed a sunny and wonderful hour up there. We were victorious and thrilled with the new views... but several of us cried like babies as we remembered our friend Fede and his tragic passing on the summit of Aconcagua all too recently. We left the top at 1 PM and walked quickly into a snowstorm. Not a vicious snowstorm, there was little wind, but a socked-in, steady snowfall. It only took us two hours to make it back to high camp and so we knocked the tents down and set out walking for basecamp. We were anxious to get down and rejoin the rest of our team who'd descended yesterday.
In Basecamp by about 6:30, we had a fine reunion dinner and made plans for our walk down-valley begining tomorrow.
An improbable summit became a treasured moment with great friends close to 23,000 ft above sea level. All are safe, all are down the hard part of the mountain.
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Sean Collon, Bridget Belliveau, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Adam Knoff reached the summit of Mt. Rainier yesterday afternoon in cold and windy conditions. The team descended back to Camp Muir for the night. The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit this morning and reports blue skies on top with a cap beginning to form. Both teams will be back in Ashford later today.
Congratulations Uncle Chris!
Posted by: Jen Maseda on 5/20/2014 at 10:36 am
Well done to my sister Carmela and my brother-in-law Max Brouwer, i am so proud of you guys!!! Mariana xxx
Posted by: Mariana Pinillos on 5/18/2014 at 12:52 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,127'
Waiting out a rain delay was a good decision at the start of our program. A 6 1/2-hour hike yesterday brought us to camp in warm and dry weather. This morning 100% of our team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the southeast ridge of the summit pyramid! After a short rest at camp, our crew climbed down through the Fisher Chimneys, back to the Lake Ann Trail and to the trailhead.
Congratulations to the Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys team!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hey everybody, it's Billy calling in with another dispatch here from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi. We went out on the glacier today out and did some training. Got ourselves back up to speed with all the fun stuff in a typical climbing school: cramponing, ice axe arrest and basically getting used to working with our tips. The crew did really well despite the high elevation. We just had a great meal here, courtesy of the caretakers at the hut and we are going to be early. We are getting up in the middle of the night to take a crack at the summit. So right now I'm outside looking at nothing but stars. We are hoping this weather holds for us... We'll see what happens and we'll give you a call tomorrow and let everybody know what came of us. Signing off for now.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from the Jose Ribas Hut on Cotopaxi
On The Map
Namaste!
The team got a great night sleep and was up early for time in the gardens and the workout room. No joke, Kim felt the need for some exercise after 35 plus hours on planes over the last few days. After a nice leisurely breakfast we discussed logistics and did a gear check to ensure we would be ready for an early morning departure. It's exciting to think that after all of our training, planning and traveling, we're finally ready to hit the trail.
With details all sorted out we headed out to visit some of the World Heritage sites that Kathmandu is home to. The adventure began as soon as we left the hotel. To describe the traffic in Kathmandu as thinly veiled bedlam would be charitable. It's amazing how many cars, truck, motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians - all vying for the same small piece of road - can manage to avoid catastrophe. But they do. It's makes for an interesting ride as a passenger to say the least.
Our first stop was Swayambhunath; also know as the "Monkey Temple" because of the mobs of monkeys that call it home. It occupies the highest ground in Kathmandu and the views of the valley from the top are fantastic - but they aren't free either. For the views and to walk around the stupa we first had to walk up 365 steps to the top. At last, all our training paid off and we made it up with no problem. Though Mark did make sure and remind us to use it as an opportunity to practice the rest step!
Next we headed to Pashupatinath. It was quite a contrast to our first stop. Not only is it Nepal's most important Hindu temple, but the banks of the river are lined with open-air cremation ghats. While there were a number of cremations in site the team was sensitive to the occasion and moved through the area quickly and quietly. We wandered through the rest of the complex getting to see a large number of shrines and temples.
We headed back into the the city and had lunch in a delightful rooftop restaurant overlooking the Stupa at Bodhnath. The view was awesome and it was nice to be able to relax as a team away from the crowds. Though after lunch we did dive into them and wander around the streets for a while before heading back to the hotel for any last minute preparations and a good night's sleep before our early morning wake up.
A special shout out to Katie from Dad and Kim!
A good day indeed.
John G.
On The Map
Posted by: Henry Coppolillo, Mike Bennett, Michael Murray, Nick Sinapius, Hannah Billings, Stella Johnson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 11,300'
The Five Day Climb July 19 - 23 led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Mike Bennett reached 11,300' today before strong winds forced them to switch their ascent to a descent. The teams have returned safely to Camp Muir. They will pack gear and enjoy the morning sunshine from 10,000' before continuing down the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later this morning. There adventure will conclude this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Enjoy my bredren and sistren. positive vibes to you.
Posted by: jason thompson on 6/17/2011 at 7:08 pm
Hey Jake and your team!! It is so exciting to watch the progress of your expedition. Please tell Clay Gilliland that all of his friends in Hot Springs are keeping all of you in our prayers for a successful and safe trip.
Tom Baird
Posted by: Tom Baird on 6/17/2011 at 5:03 pm
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