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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Digging Out from “Epic” Storm

June 27, 2014 - 11:11 pm PT At 8 PM this evening we were blessed with the first glimmer of sun in two and a half days. This isn't completely out of the ordinary for this neck of the woods but more surprising, even to me with eight Denali expeditions, was the amount of snow that fell during that sunless stretch. Four feet would about do this storm justice but when you are living in a nylon house that can collapse under a moderate burial of drifting snow it felt more like ten feet. This morning at breakfast while in the posh house, a one pole pyramid cook tent set up to fit the entire team, shook and sagged under the constant loading of falling flakes, Jay Lampas asked if this snow storm qualified as "epic" yet? I didn't want to sound too fragile and make him believe this was the "storm of the century" but I did have to concede that four feet in two days was a touch "epic". Of course the main worry of the team is how this massive blanketing will effect our upward progress. I didn't have an exact answer but I do know we will be sitting still on Saturday no matter how brilliant the weather because of the avalanche hazard that awaits above us. Safety is always the number one priority so we will move to 14,000 feet only when we know it is safe to do so. Hopefully our dwindling lunch food and Cosmo magazines can hold us out until we can get to the cache of food we left at Windy Corner. We are all looking forward to a night with no 2 am wake up calls for shoveling duty. Maybe full dreams will be of the upper mountain. All the best from McKinley Team Knoff.

On The Map

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Yup! We are now swimming in Torch Lake after a “forever” winter in Northern Michigan!  As we follow you up Denali we can see that the snows have not left all places to date!  We hope you get a break in the weather and your journey will be able to move forward.  Ken

Posted by: Ken and Kathy Masck on 6/29/2014 at 4:45 am

Happy birthday Wheeler! I hope the weather cooperates!

Posted by: Kenny on 6/28/2014 at 9:33 pm


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Reaches the SUMMIT!

Our Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Jake Beren reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported great route conditions, warm temperatures and clear skies. The team is now en route to Camp Muir and will spend the spend the rest of their time at Camp Muir training before returning to RMI Basecamp tomorrow. Congratulations to today's team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Job well done!!!! Not too many people can say they did this.  Congratulations…. from the other Eileen & Ty

Posted by: Eieen on 9/16/2013 at 6:29 am

YEAH! Great News Thrilling…  what an accomplishment.

Love Mom, Ty ( Bluefin Tuna Fishing on Cape Cod) and Kate!!!

Posted by: meg on 9/12/2013 at 6:12 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Teams Turned back by Winds and Weather

The Five Day Climb August 19 - 23 led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom & Dan May left Camp Muir around 2 am to make their summit attempt.  The teams climbed to the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300') before high winds and deteriorating weather conditions forced them to descend.  The teams will return to Camp Muir where they will spend another night on the mountain. If weather improves they may be able to do some additional training before descending to Paradise tomorrow to complete their program. 

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Train and Prepare to Ascend Fixed Lines

Monday, May 22, 2023 - 10:11 pm PT

It was an incredibly pleasant day at 14,000'. It snowed lightly all night but when we woke up it was bluebird and calm. We took our time over breakfast (again) and started to wrap our heads around the schedule and logistics above here. We did an afternoon training session to prepare for the fixed lines and running belays of the West Buttress above, then retired for a warm and sunny siesta. The rest was part of the plan as we intend to head up the fixed lines and along the West Buttress tomorrow to put in a small cache and get familiar with the terrain. With that complete, the puzzle pieces that we have control over will be in place for our summit push.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy belated Birthday Juan! Hope you and the crew are safe and enjoying yourselves. Can’t wait to hear all about it.

Posted by: Mike Jenison on 5/23/2023 at 6:57 pm

Keep going Bailey!! Atlas has been shrugging.

Posted by: Stewart Beshears on 5/23/2023 at 5:40 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche Climb: Smith & Team Make Attempt on Lobuche Peak

Good evening all,

Today we made our attempt at the summit of Lobuche Peak. While we didn't stand on the summit we did get to 18,300'. The conditions were rather wintery with cold temps, lots of snow, and a bitter wind. The snow sure did make for pretty pictures but it also made for some tough climbing. We gave it all that we had but ultimately decided the conditions were not in our favor and it was best for us to turn around. It has been an amazing trip but the team is looking forward to warmth, hot showers, and lattes. We made good distance this afternoon getting all the way to Pangboche. Tomorrow we set our eyes on Namche where we can fill our bellies and find our souvenirs and gifts for loved ones. It's been a long day starting at 3 am so it's early to bed for us.

Good night all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Abby, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad you guys are safe!

Posted by: Eva on 4/3/2023 at 10:00 am

Congratulations!  I’ve enjoyed your reports and so admired what you all have experienced and accomplished.  Thanks for sharing!

Posted by: Marcia Fankhauser on 4/3/2023 at 8:52 am


Aconcagua: King & Team Take Rest Day at Camp 1

The team has been battling some weather on the Aconcagua as of late, but this morning we awoke to crisp, dry air and snowcapped views on our horizon. Today is a rest day after our hearty carry up to Camp 2 yesterday.  We will enjoy our coffee, well deserved naps, and lots of tent time to rest our bodies and minds for the move to Camp 2 tomorrow.

Wish us luck! 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Enjoy the good weather, hope it stays that way.  Wishing everyone a safe and successful summit!  Can’t wait to hear all about the trip! Go Frogs!

The Broderick Family

Posted by: Nancy Broderick on 1/8/2023 at 5:36 am

Wonderful news about the weather break! We’re hoping it holds for you.

We finally had some snow and will be snowshoeing our home trails this morning. Going early so that Willa can have her nap on time, haha!

Ginger & Caleb spent the night and e we played Mexican Train. Had to make up a few rules, the directions were limited, haha!

Sending our love and prayers for the whole team’s good health and success! XOXOXO Momma and Dad

Posted by: Momma and Dad on 1/8/2023 at 2:28 am


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ascend to Camp 1 at 7,800ft

Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 10:36 pm PT

Sometimes it’s not so fun to be right.  Turns out we were right about the incoming snow storm.   We moved to Camp 1 at 7,800' today through continuous snowy weather.   The guide team safely navigated us across the Kahiltna, while Eric proved he was a talented linguist by regaling us with stories during our breaks. Tomorrow we hope to cache food and extra equipment above Ski Hill and then return to our camp. 

RMI Guides Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go Heidi!!! We are following along as well! :)

Carol & Huay

Posted by: Huay on 5/22/2021 at 6:00 pm

Elliot
Loving the updates. Stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit. Our best to you and your fellow travelers.
Love
Mom and Daf

Posted by: Susan and Bert Campos on 5/22/2021 at 9:57 am


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

After a relaxing evening at Casa Sol, this morning finds us in the indigenous center of Otavalo. We're spending a few hours strolling the streets and exploring the bustling Saturday market. Saturdays here are a sensory overload of sights, smells, and sounds, as the market is loaded with handmade crafts, jewelry, woven goods, art, and more. Delicious aromas from all of the restaurants and food vendors fill the air. After lunch we'll head up to the Cayambe Climbers' Hut, where we'll spend the next two nights. It will be our first stint at sleeping up high, above 15,000'. The plan is to go out to the toe of the glacier tomorrow to review climbing techniques, such as cramponing and self arrest with the ice axe. We'll retire early tomorrow night in preparation for our alpine start and summit attempt of Cayambe, Ecuador's third highest mountain at nearly 19,000'. Thanks for following our adventures. We'll touch base again tomorrow from up at the hut. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Team Jones- Freeze or Fry! Carry to 16,400’

Saturday, June 8, 2013 Bonjour, from the fryer at 14 camp. The essence of climbing the great big mountains is that in the shade we freeze and in the sun we fry. Our carry to 16,400 ft went well and we are now ready for some more rest time. Today was a long hard effort getting out of the tents around 6:45 with not a breath of wind and clear skies; the not so fuzzy part was -10 F air temp. This had us all moving quickly to eat another bowl of oatmeal and down a cup of coffee before departing camp and wiggling vigorously to keep the fingers and toes warm. When we reached the half way mark in our second leg of the carry, the sun popped up over the West Rib route and the rays warmed us to our core. It took just a half hour for us to be climbing in our base layer, welcoming the fry portion of our day. The fixed lines on the West Buttress Head Wall were in great condition with fabulous cramponing - the teeth biting in the snow as if we were on steep green grass. I envy green grass as the only natural colors we have observed are white, blue and the light brown of the granite ridges rising thousands of feet above. We chopped in firm snow to create a cache hole just big enough to drop food, fuel and supplies. The team then descended down the buttress a short way before a hot and relatively easy and smooth decent off the fixed lines and a short stroll back to our 14 advanced base camp! In the tents yet again hiding from the magnificent orange ball in the sky! The future of the day and for tomorrow is to chill, eat, drink, and rest up for our summit push hopefully next week! We miss you all! The guides are currently craving an ice cold coke, some one please have one for us! Till tomorrow be happy be chill all is well! Ciao, RMI Guides Tyler Jones & Garrett Stevens

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James,
Cheers, what a challenge! Trust that you will be well hydrated and alert all the way to the summit with high spirit. Continue your adventure safely and enjoy what nature offers there. Following RMI blog. Praying for you and the team successful journey. Love, mom and dad

Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/9/2013 at 5:27 pm

Go Fallout Go!!
Sounds like the team is doing great…keep it up! 

sincerely,
-Deputy Dawg

Posted by: Steve Kennedy on 6/9/2013 at 4:50 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 8, 2013 Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6 a.m. this morning. The team climbed above the clouds and experienced great route conditions. Congratulations to today's Team! Photos by Jason Thompson, see more of Jason's photography here.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

the most amazing event i have ever experienced!

Posted by: eric u. on 6/24/2013 at 10:09 am

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